Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 16th Jun 2024 - Nordgalerie | ||||||
Mindgame | ||||||
7a+ |
★★ Nonam
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 8th May 2024 - Gäsi | ||||||
Mitte | ||||||
7c+ Easy |
FA
★★★ Happy Feet
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
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Wed 1st May 2024 - Nordgalerie | ||||||
Trolok | ||||||
7b+ |
★★★ Ambositra P1
![]()
1
7b+
20m
| 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Gäsi | ||||||
Links | ||||||
7a |
★★ Erebos
![]() | 35m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I guess i was the first one climbing it this year; now the upper section is nice and clean again ;-).
Good addition to the crag. |
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7c |
★★ El Xipiron
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The crossover / fall into the right hand sidepull is such an outrageous and unlikely move...Super cool when it comes together.
Not physically hard, but good body tension is key. |
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Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Gäsi | ||||||
Mitte | ||||||
6b+ ~6c |
★★ Slot Machine
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
New long line left of Prince Eisenherz.
Gets better the higher you go; with a tricky move out of the dihedral and onto the prow.
For me more 6c, but easier than the sandbagged 6cs to the left of it ;-) |
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7c ~7c |
FA
★★ Discombobulated
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A fun journey this one.
Rapped over it last year to clean it thinking it was Dschungelpfad. Now it turned out, the SAC Glanerland guidebook has this one and its neighbor confused, and this was the old project (I guess now, in hindsight, it makes sense why the grade was no-where near the suggested 7a 😉) Removed the trees, cleaned the route, and added the missing bolt and anchor. It’s actually really nice to climb. A bit of a puzzling crux down low (at least for me) where you do about 6 moves without gaining any height (but might be easier/ different if you can reach a bit higher from the ramp). Middle part is fun climbing and then another tricky section around the last bolt, with the typical Gäsi Shenanigans. Grade needs confirmation. |
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Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Plattenwand | ||||||
7a+ ~7a |
★★ Mr. Dry Hand
![]() | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Not harder than Alis Mum.
|
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7a |
★ AliMamma
![]() | 8 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Trollfels | ||||||
5c |
★ Kreuzweg
![]() | 22m | Average | |||
Trollfels Bingo complete ;-)
|
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7c+ |
★★★ Desperado
![]() | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Brilliant climb, the best at Trollfels imho. stacked little boulder problems interrupted by descent rests.
Felt hard today in tropical conditions. |
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Thu 31st Aug 2023 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Plattenwand | ||||||
7c+ ~7c |
★★ Wolfsspur
![]() | ★★ Very Good | ||||
nice technical route, not too hard with the right sequence.
|
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Fri 4th Aug 2023 - Nordgalerie | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
7b |
★★★ Duha
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Messed up the onsight at the last hard bit, but was a really cool fight. Classic Route.
|
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Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Trollfels | ||||||
7b+ ~7b |
★ Bella Donna
![]() | 22m | ★ Good | |||
A bit contrived a bit green and a bit scary (some of the holds, you know your finger will stay there if your foot comes off.....). Otherwise some fun moves
|
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Wed 5th Jul 2023 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Moriskenburg | ||||||
5c+ |
★ Gawain
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Moriskenburg Bingo
|
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6a |
★ La Primera
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
8a ~7c+ |
★★★ Parzival
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A bit contrived. But once you accepted to go straight over the bolts and dont use the good stuff on the left its actually the better line! Still more 7c+ I think
|
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Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Moriskenburg | ||||||
7c |
★★ Parzival Links
![]() | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 28th May 2023 - Gäsi | ||||||
Rechts | ||||||
8a+ |
FA
★★★ Senseless
![]() | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I can stop bashing my head against the wall now
Sensorium in itself is already a classic, and this extension makes it even better. Hard to get established to the first bolt, then some fun resistance climbing to the crux...Its all about arriving with enough energy at those slimpers... In order to send this I had to have Sensorium so dialed, that I could do it as a warm-up; and ended up sending Sensorium 3 times in one day |
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Wed 24th May 2023 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Plattenkreuz | ||||||
7b |
★ Street Parade
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 6th May 2023 - Deponie | ||||||
Hauptsektor | ||||||
6c |
★ ?
![]() | 10m | ★ Good | |||
one of the better of the short ones.
|
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7b |
★★ Saltamonte
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice route! Longest at the crag.
|
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Tue 13th Sep 2022 - Gäsi | ||||||
Rechts | ||||||
8a+ Easy |
★ Pororoca
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Not as good as other routes on this wall but has some cool sequences. Unfortunately, its always a bit dirty which makes the footholds very slippery.
|
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Sat 27th Aug 2022 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Moriskenburg | ||||||
7b |
★★★ Burgfräulein
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Remember that I found this quite hard at the end of the day.
Today it went down quite smoothly while putting up the draws and not really knowing what to do. So I guess it's 7b after all. Very cool climb. |
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7b+ |
★ Morisken-Tänzer Verlängerung
![]() | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 26th Aug 2022 - Gäsi | ||||||
Rechts | ||||||
8a |
★★★ Blind date extension
![]() | 44m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Brilliant 44m of climbing with the crux at almost 40m height.
For me this felt a tad harder than grau gnom or sensorium but might be easier if you have longer legs or, even better, are more flexible than I am. |
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Sat 6th Aug 2022 - Gäsi | ||||||
Rechts | ||||||
7c+ |
★★★ Blind Date
![]() | 33m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Another Gäsi classic; long with really nice sequences...essentially 3 7b+ on top of each other.
Very close to ticking the extension as well. |
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8a |
★★★ Sensorium
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice!!!
It's a 5m power endurance problem but the rest of the climb is still very cool!
|
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Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Nordgalerie | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
7b |
★★ Azasch
![]() | 32m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The mantle kinda took my off-guard...
|
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7a+ |
★★★ Kreziano
![]() | 33m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt impossible last time when i was tired; felt okay for the grade as a warm-up.
|
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7c+ |
★★★ Riding on the Storm
![]() | 35m | ||||
Three hardish sections separated by good rests. Soft but also absolutely my style.
(Put some draws and tick-marks on coming down from the neighboring route; otherwise onsight) |
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Wed 13th Jul 2022 - Nordgalerie | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
7c |
★★ Unendliche Reise
![]()
1
7b
25
2
7c
19
| 44m | ★★★ Classic | |||
7b+ |
★ Mammon
![]() | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Some cool moves, but quite dirty and some very scetchy feet on 45° slopers.
|
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Sat 9th Jul 2022 - Gäsi | ||||||
Rechts | ||||||
8b |
★★★ King of Bongo
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Yes!
Bangin' on my bongo all that swing belongs to me, I'm so happy there's nobody in my place instead of me =) Put my draws in a bit over a year ago and now (after a total of 8 days over the last year) I can finally put this to rest! Classic line. My first of the grade |
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Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Nordgalerie | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
7b |
★★★ Big Wave
![]() | 35m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 4th Jun 2022 - Nordgalerie | ||||||
Trolok | ||||||
6c |
★ Ravenela - Manchmal
![]() | 20m | Average | |||
A warm up.
|
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7a+ |
★★★ Katta (Katta P1)
![]()
1
7a+
20m
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
7b+ |
★★★ Trolok
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Half a move off the onsight.
Cool route!
|
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Sun 3rd Oct 2021 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Moriskenburg | ||||||
7c |
★★ Super Rochade
![]() | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Soft but fun =). Nicely spaced bolts ;-)
|
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Sun 3rd Oct 2021 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Plattenwand | ||||||
7c |
★★ Lachen Lacht
![]() | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7a |
★★ Zum 60.
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 8th Sep 2021 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Plattenwand | ||||||
7b |
★★ Züri-Metzgete
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
3rd bolt is really hard to clip.
|
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7a |
★★ Schwertwal
![]() | 25m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cleaning up an old dog.
|
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5c |
★ Ottimazione
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
5b+ |
★ Goliath
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 7th Sep 2021 - Gäsi | ||||||
Rechts | ||||||
7c+ |
★★★ Gummibärchen Orakel
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super cool route, basically as good as grau gnom, just a bit shorter. The bouldery start (first 5 draws) Ended up being the crux for me. But lots of places where you can fall off, even after the no hands rest.
(3rd go)
|
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Sat 24th Jul 2021 - Gäsi | ||||||
Rechts | ||||||
7c |
★★★ Laisse la Petite
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A victory for the small ones =). Maybe a tad hard for the grade, but a classic line either way.
|
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Fri 4th Jun 2021 - Gäsi | ||||||
Rechts | ||||||
7a |
★★★ Coming Out
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Jugs in Gäsi!
|
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Mon 3rd May 2021 - Gäsi | ||||||
Rechts | ||||||
8a |
★★★ La Le Lu
![]() | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
...nur der Mann im Mond schaut zu....
|
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Sat 24th Apr 2021 - Gäsi | ||||||
Rechts | ||||||
7a |
★★ Le Lu
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Send this while sabrina was bitten by an ant which fell into her EYE!
.....what a weird day. |
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8a+ |
★★★ El Valor
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
First grade 30...a bit of an aussie milestone =)
This is another very cool Gäsi line. A bit morpho / surely will be easier with larger wingspan, i.e. if you can span from one good sidepull to the other or go directly from undercling to the good undercling. For me, with all the moves I had to add in between on those sub-optimal holds this felt like a real step up from the 8a's / full value for the grade; thus the name holds true "El Valor" Ended up with some really cool sequences featuring upside down gastons, heel- and toe-hooks, pushing into slopy corners and of course, all in combination with a lot of sidepulls! Very happy with the send |
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Sun 11th Apr 2021 - Gäsi | ||||||
Rechts | ||||||
7a+ |
★★★ Clandestino
![]() | 45m, 17 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This time as a warm-up...still had to fight a lot more than I'd anticipated.
Varied climbing with multiple cruxy sections and shake outs in between; needs a broad skill set. |
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Sun 11th Apr 2021 - Gäsi | ||||||
Links | ||||||
7a+ |
★★ Sputnik Shock
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Finally vaccinated =)
|
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Sun 4th Apr 2021 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Plattenwand | ||||||
7b |
★ Wildsau Extension
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Tough nut.
|
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Wed 31st Mar 2021 - Gäsi | ||||||
Rechts | ||||||
7a+ |
★ Kana Bis
![]() | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did the right variant in the middle section which overall makes for a nice climb. just a bit dirty in the first few meters.
The top crux needs a bit of commitment. |
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7a |
★ Candela right
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 30th Mar 2021 - Gäsi | ||||||
Links | ||||||
7b+ |
★ Von Mäusen und Menschen
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Boulder start, crimpy middle section and boulder finish.
Gotta get those twitchy fibers running...
Left the first two clipped as the feet are super slippery around the second bolt. |
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6b+ |
★★★ Dos Presos
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very cool route...jugs at Gäsi! Great 6b+ which was bolted for a 7a-climber ;-)
|
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Tue 30th Mar 2021 - Gäsi | ||||||
Mitte | ||||||
7c |
★★ Lament
![]() | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Another great Gäsi line! Boulder crux section down low and then mind bending Gäsi-shenanigans to the top; Love it.
Def. not 7c+, prob. even soft for 7c?! |
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Sun 28th Mar 2021 - Gäsi | ||||||
Links | ||||||
6c |
★★ Salamander
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice technical climbing which somehow gets you pumped.
|
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6a+ 6a |
★ Brotherhood
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Typical Gäsi style with sidepulls and lots of trickery.
Def. hard for the grade but beautiful climbing which you don't get anywhere else for 6a+.
Would be classic, but is one of the few lines in Gäsi where the rock quality is not perfect.
|
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7a |
★★ Ghelfinarium
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had to do a bit of cleaning on the way to the anchor but very nice line with some cool moves.
|
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Sun 28th Mar 2021 - Gäsi | ||||||
Rechts | ||||||
8a |
★★★ Grau Gnom
![]() | 42m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
40+m of awesome but continuously challenging climbing. So many cool sequences, kinda fries your brain.
Gäsi is the gift that keeps on giving... |
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Sat 27th Feb 2021 - Nordgalerie | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
7b+ 7b |
★★ Luftschiff
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool line; 7b+ with my height I reckon (as written in the guidebook)
|
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Sun 21st Feb 2021 - Engi | ||||||
Aaterästei | ||||||
6a |
★★ Windhosä
![]() | 15m | ||||
6b |
★★ s'Totägrindli
![]() | 30m, 14 | ||||
6b+ |
★★ Bolero
![]() | 30m, 14 | ||||
6c |
★★ Psychodelikum
![]() | 15m | ||||
6a+ |
★ Schamauch
![]() | 15m | ||||
6c+ |
★★ Psychotest
![]() | 15m | ||||
Sun 15th Nov 2020 - Gäsi | ||||||
Mitte | ||||||
6a+ |
★ Werk statt schreib
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Solid for the grade. Almost got killed by an owl...
|
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6b |
★★ Werk statt schreib Verlängerung
![]() | 32m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Last few moves in common with 7a.
Extension is better than the 6a+!
|
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Mon 14th Sep 2020 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Plattenwand | ||||||
5b+ |
★ Falkenbrut
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 12th Sep 2020 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Plattenkreuz | ||||||
5c |
★★ Namenlos into Riss
![]() | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5c+ |
★★ Gringitta
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7c |
★★★ Ohrakel
![]() | 26m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Is it more listening or telling?!?
|
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7a |
★★ Nasä ohni Böög
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 8th Sep 2020 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Plattenwand | ||||||
7a+ |
★★ Thomaso
![]() | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Soft and chipped but good fun.
|
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6b |
★★ Aldo und Tilda
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
7b |
★ Desert Storm L1
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | |||
A bit of a omw. The extension is cool but was wet in the upper half.
|
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Sun 6th Sep 2020 - Nordgalerie | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
7b+ |
★★ Black Pearl
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mikes new route.
|
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7b |
★★ Rocksanne
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Anna's new route, straight after her first ascent. Tough start and a tricky section half way up.
|
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7b |
★★ Rock Office
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 5th Sep 2020 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Plattenwand | ||||||
6a |
★ Weberknecht
![]() | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Felt nails
|
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6c |
★ Gatto Rosso Extension
![]() | 23m | ★ Good | |||
6c+ |
★★ Für Nina
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5b |
★★ Balistoeffekt (Balistoeffeckt)
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 20th Aug 2020 - Deponie | ||||||
Hauptsektor | ||||||
7c |
★★ Leistenbruch
![]() | 24m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Probably soft, but didn't feel like it on a 33degree day ;-)
|
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Wed 12th Aug 2020 - Deponie | ||||||
Hauptsektor | ||||||
6c+ |
★★ Venus
![]() | 30m, 16 | ★ Good | |||
Climbing is good; rock not so much
|
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Sun 9th Aug 2020 - Nordgalerie | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
6c |
★★★ Rumborak
![]() | 35m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
7b |
★★ Herkulis
![]() | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I am essentially a half-god now!
|
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Wed 22nd Jul 2020 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Moriskenburg | ||||||
7b |
★★ La Rochade
![]() | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Essentially the best move.
|
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Sat 4th Jul 2020 - Nordgalerie | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
7b+ 7b |
★★ Corazon Negro
![]() | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Went straight with the tiny crimps at the upper crux for the 7b+ version.
|
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7a |
★★★ Zahir
![]() | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thu 25th Jun 2020 - Nordgalerie | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
6c |
★★ Sparrow - Barbossa
![]() | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Makes it a nice homogeneous climb. One day I have to try these routes with some daylight left...More light, less spiders ;-)
|
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7b |
★★ Grün ist die Hoffnung
![]()
1
6c
2
7b
| 35m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Finally, not an easy climb; some may even say not 7b...
|
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Sat 13th Jun 2020 - Nordgalerie | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
6b+ |
★★ Arcimboldo
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
7a |
★★ Samsum's Traum
![]() | 35m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Like a dream
|
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Fri 12th Jun 2020 - Hüttenkopf | ||||||
6c |
★ Carfax Abbey
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | |||
6a |
★★ Schattenspiel
![]()
1
5c
15
2
6a
20
| 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd pitch is an awkward delight.
|
As always in Gäsi, seems tricky until you understand what needs to be done![:-)](https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/gh/twitter/twemoji@14.0.2/assets/svg/1f603.svg)