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Ascents in Glarner Alpen as various tick types by Andreas Aachen

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 193 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sun 16th Jun 2024 - Nordgalerie
Mindgame
7a+ Nonam Sport 25m Very Good
Wed 8th May 2024 - Gäsi
Mitte
7c+ Easy Happy Feet - with Mr C, Mr M Sport 30m Classic
Engaging climbing on stellar rock quality, where body positioning and esp. good footwork are key.

As always in Gäsi, seems tricky until you understand what needs to be done

 
Wed 1st May 2024 - Nordgalerie
Trolok
7b+ Ambositra P1 - with Xa4
1 7b+ 20m Sport
Sport 20m Classic
Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Gäsi
Links
7a Erebos - with Sara_S Sport 35m, 14 Very Good
I guess i was the first one climbing it this year; now the upper section is nice and clean again ;-).

Good addition to the crag.

 
7c El Xipiron - with Mr C Sport 25m Very Good
The crossover / fall into the right hand sidepull is such an outrageous and unlikely move...Super cool when it comes together.

Not physically hard, but good body tension is key.

 
Mon 15th Apr 2024 - Gäsi
Mitte
6b+ ~6c Slot Machine - with Mr C Sport 30m Very Good
New long line left of Prince Eisenherz. Gets better the higher you go; with a tricky move out of the dihedral and onto the prow.

For me more 6c, but easier than the sandbagged 6cs to the left of it ;-)

 
7c ~7c Discombobulated - with Sara_S Sport 30m Very Good
A fun journey this one.

Rapped over it last year to clean it thinking it was Dschungelpfad. Now it turned out, the SAC Glanerland guidebook has this one and its neighbor confused, and this was the old project (I guess now, in hindsight, it makes sense why the grade was no-where near the suggested 7a 😉)

Removed the trees, cleaned the route, and added the missing bolt and anchor. It’s actually really nice to climb.

A bit of a puzzling crux down low (at least for me) where you do about 6 moves without gaining any height (but might be easier/ different if you can reach a bit higher from the ramp). Middle part is fun climbing and then another tricky section around the last bolt, with the typical Gäsi Shenanigans.

Grade needs confirmation.

 
Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Plattenwald
Plattenwand
7a+ ~7a Mr. Dry Hand - with Jascha Sport 18m Good
Not harder than Alis Mum.

 
7a AliMamma - with Jascha Sport 8 Good
Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Plattenwald
Trollfels
5c Kreuzweg - with Jascha Sport 22m Average
Trollfels Bingo complete ;-)

 
7c+ Desperado - with Jascha Sport 22m Classic
Brilliant climb, the best at Trollfels imho. stacked little boulder problems interrupted by descent rests.

Felt hard today in tropical conditions.

 
Thu 31st Aug 2023 - Plattenwald
Plattenwand
7c+ ~7c Wolfsspur - with Jascha Sport Very Good
nice technical route, not too hard with the right sequence.

 
Fri 4th Aug 2023 - Nordgalerie
Hauptwand
7b Duha - with Mari Sport 30m Classic
Messed up the onsight at the last hard bit, but was a really cool fight. Classic Route.

 
Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Plattenwald
Trollfels
7b+ ~7b Bella Donna - with Beatrice Sport 22m Good
A bit contrived a bit green and a bit scary (some of the holds, you know your finger will stay there if your foot comes off.....). Otherwise some fun moves

 
Wed 5th Jul 2023 - Plattenwald
Moriskenburg
5c+ Gawain - with Mr C Sport 15m Good
Moriskenburg Bingo

 
6a La Primera - with Mr C Sport 20m Good
8a ~7c+ Parzival - with Mr C Sport 35m Classic
A bit contrived. But once you accepted to go straight over the bolts and dont use the good stuff on the left its actually the better line! Still more 7c+ I think

 
Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Plattenwald
Moriskenburg
7c Parzival Links - with Mr C Sport 35m Very Good
Sun 28th May 2023 - Gäsi
Rechts
8a+ Senseless - with Henri, Manu, Mari, Mark Sport 45m Classic
I can stop bashing my head against the wall now

Sensorium in itself is already a classic, and this extension makes it even better. Hard to get established to the first bolt, then some fun resistance climbing to the crux...Its all about arriving with enough energy at those slimpers...

In order to send this I had to have Sensorium so dialed, that I could do it as a warm-up; and ended up sending Sensorium 3 times in one day

 
Wed 24th May 2023 - Plattenwald
Plattenkreuz
7b Street Parade - with Mari Sport 25m Good
Sat 6th May 2023 - Deponie
Hauptsektor
6c ? - with Chris Sport 10m Good
one of the better of the short ones.

 
7b Saltamonte - with Chris Sport 30m Very Good
Nice route! Longest at the crag.

 
Tue 13th Sep 2022 - Gäsi
Rechts
8a+ Easy Pororoca - with Manu Sport 25m Good
Not as good as other routes on this wall but has some cool sequences. Unfortunately, its always a bit dirty which makes the footholds very slippery.

 
Sat 27th Aug 2022 - Plattenwald
Moriskenburg
7b Burgfräulein - with Gillian Sport 35m Classic
Remember that I found this quite hard at the end of the day.

Today it went down quite smoothly while putting up the draws and not really knowing what to do. So I guess it's 7b after all. Very cool climb.

 
7b+ Morisken-Tänzer Verlängerung - with Gillian Sport 35m Good
Fri 26th Aug 2022 - Gäsi
Rechts
8a Blind date extension - with Manu Sport 44m Classic
Brilliant 44m of climbing with the crux at almost 40m height.

For me this felt a tad harder than grau gnom or sensorium but might be easier if you have longer legs or, even better, are more flexible than I am.

 
Sat 6th Aug 2022 - Gäsi
Rechts
7c+ Blind Date - with Manu Sport 33m Classic
Another Gäsi classic; long with really nice sequences...essentially 3 7b+ on top of each other.

Very close to ticking the extension as well.

 
8a Sensorium - with Manu Sport 30m Classic
Nice!!! It's a 5m power endurance problem but the rest of the climb is still very cool!

 
Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Nordgalerie
Hauptwand
7b Azasch - with Xa4 Sport 32m, 14 Very Good
The mantle kinda took my off-guard...

 
7a+ Kreziano - with Xa4 Sport 33m, 13 Very Good
Felt impossible last time when i was tired; felt okay for the grade as a warm-up.

 
7c+ Riding on the Storm - with Xa4 Sport 35m
Three hardish sections separated by good rests. Soft but also absolutely my style.

(Put some draws and tick-marks on coming down from the neighboring route; otherwise onsight)

 
Wed 13th Jul 2022 - Nordgalerie
Hauptwand
7c Unendliche Reise - with Mr C
1 7b 25
2 7c 19
Sport 44m Classic
7b+ Mammon - with Mr C Sport 35m Good
Some cool moves, but quite dirty and some very scetchy feet on 45° slopers.

 
Sat 9th Jul 2022 - Gäsi
Rechts
8b King of Bongo - with Manu Sport 25m Classic
Yes!

Bangin' on my bongo all that swing belongs to me, I'm so happy there's nobody in my place instead of me =)

Put my draws in a bit over a year ago and now (after a total of 8 days over the last year) I can finally put this to rest! Classic line. My first of the grade

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfLIlP-GAmg

 
Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Nordgalerie
Hauptwand
7b Big Wave - with Xa4 Sport 35m, 15 Very Good
Sat 4th Jun 2022 - Nordgalerie
Trolok
6c Ravenela - Manchmal - with Anna Sport 20m Average
A warm up.

 
7a+ Katta (Katta P1) - with Anna
1 7a+ 20m
Sport 20m Good
7b+ Trolok - with Anna Sport 30m Very Good
Half a move off the onsight. Cool route!

 
Sun 3rd Oct 2021 - Plattenwald
Moriskenburg
7c Super Rochade - with Sabrina Sport 35m Very Good
Soft but fun =). Nicely spaced bolts ;-)

 
Sun 3rd Oct 2021 - Plattenwald
Plattenwand
7c Lachen Lacht - with Sabrina Sport 18m Very Good
7a Zum 60. - with Sabrina Sport 20m Very Good
Wed 8th Sep 2021 - Plattenwald
Plattenwand
7b Züri-Metzgete - with Sabrina Sport 15m Very Good
3rd bolt is really hard to clip.

 
7a Schwertwal - with Sabrina Sport 25m, 14 Very Good
Cleaning up an old dog.

 
5c Ottimazione - with Sabrina Sport 15m Good
5b+ Goliath - with Sabrina Sport 12m Good
Tue 7th Sep 2021 - Gäsi
Rechts
7c+ Gummibärchen Orakel Sport 30m Classic
Super cool route, basically as good as grau gnom, just a bit shorter. The bouldery start (first 5 draws) Ended up being the crux for me. But lots of places where you can fall off, even after the no hands rest. (3rd go)

 
Sat 24th Jul 2021 - Gäsi
Rechts
7c Laisse la Petite - with Xa4 Sport 20m Classic
A victory for the small ones =). Maybe a tad hard for the grade, but a classic line either way.

 
Fri 4th Jun 2021 - Gäsi
Rechts
7a Coming Out - with Ivo Sport 20m Very Good
Jugs in Gäsi!

 
Mon 3rd May 2021 - Gäsi
Rechts
8a La Le Lu - with Sabrina Sport 40m Mega Classic
...nur der Mann im Mond schaut zu....

 
Sat 24th Apr 2021 - Gäsi
Rechts
7a Le Lu - with Sabrina Sport 20m Very Good
Send this while sabrina was bitten by an ant which fell into her EYE!

.....what a weird day.

 
8a+ El Valor - with Sabrina Sport 35m Classic
First grade 30...a bit of an aussie milestone =)

This is another very cool Gäsi line. A bit morpho / surely will be easier with larger wingspan, i.e. if you can span from one good sidepull to the other or go directly from undercling to the good undercling. For me, with all the moves I had to add in between on those sub-optimal holds this felt like a real step up from the 8a's / full value for the grade; thus the name holds true "El Valor" .

Ended up with some really cool sequences featuring upside down gastons, heel- and toe-hooks, pushing into slopy corners and of course, all in combination with a lot of sidepulls! Very happy with the send

 
Sun 11th Apr 2021 - Gäsi
Rechts
7a+ Clandestino Sport 45m, 17 Classic
This time as a warm-up...still had to fight a lot more than I'd anticipated.

Varied climbing with multiple cruxy sections and shake outs in between; needs a broad skill set.

 
Sun 11th Apr 2021 - Gäsi
Links
7a+ Sputnik Shock - with Sabrina Sport 25m Very Good
Finally vaccinated =)

 
Sun 4th Apr 2021 - Plattenwald
Plattenwand
7b Wildsau Extension - with Sabrina Sport 30m Good
Tough nut.

 
Wed 31st Mar 2021 - Gäsi
Rechts
7a+ Kana Bis - with Ivo Sport 35m Very Good
Did the right variant in the middle section which overall makes for a nice climb. just a bit dirty in the first few meters.

The top crux needs a bit of commitment.

 
7a Candela right - with Ivo Sport 30m Good
Tue 30th Mar 2021 - Gäsi
Links
7b+ Von Mäusen und Menschen - with Stefan Barthel Sport 20m Good
Boulder start, crimpy middle section and boulder finish. Gotta get those twitchy fibers running...

Left the first two clipped as the feet are super slippery around the second bolt.

 
6b+ Dos Presos - with Stefan Barthel Sport 30m Very Good
Very cool route...jugs at Gäsi! Great 6b+ which was bolted for a 7a-climber ;-)

 
Tue 30th Mar 2021 - Gäsi
Mitte
7c Lament - with Stefan Barthel Sport 35m Classic
Another great Gäsi line! Boulder crux section down low and then mind bending Gäsi-shenanigans to the top; Love it.

Def. not 7c+, prob. even soft for 7c?!

 
Sun 28th Mar 2021 - Gäsi
Links
6c Salamander - with Sabrina Sport 20m Very Good
Nice technical climbing which somehow gets you pumped.

 
6a+ 6a Brotherhood - with Sabrina Sport 20m Very Good
Typical Gäsi style with sidepulls and lots of trickery. Def. hard for the grade but beautiful climbing which you don't get anywhere else for 6a+. Would be classic, but is one of the few lines in Gäsi where the rock quality is not perfect.

 
7a Ghelfinarium - with Sabrina Sport 20m Very Good
Had to do a bit of cleaning on the way to the anchor but very nice line with some cool moves.

 
Sun 28th Mar 2021 - Gäsi
Rechts
8a Grau Gnom - with Sabrina, Ivo Sport 42m Mega Classic
40+m of awesome but continuously challenging climbing. So many cool sequences, kinda fries your brain.

Gäsi is the gift that keeps on giving...

 
Sat 27th Feb 2021 - Nordgalerie
Hauptwand
7b+ 7b Luftschiff - with Sabrina Sport 25m Very Good
Cool line; 7b+ with my height I reckon (as written in the guidebook)

 
Sun 21st Feb 2021 - Engi
Aaterästei
6a Windhosä Sport 15m
6b s'Totägrindli Sport 30m, 14
6b+ Bolero Sport 30m, 14
6c Psychodelikum Sport 15m
6a+ Schamauch Sport 15m
6c+ Psychotest Sport 15m
Sun 15th Nov 2020 - Gäsi
Mitte
6a+ Werk statt schreib - with Ivo Sport 20m Good
Solid for the grade. Almost got killed by an owl...

 
6b Werk statt schreib Verlängerung - with Ivo Sport 32m Very Good
Last few moves in common with 7a. Extension is better than the 6a+!

 
Mon 14th Sep 2020 - Plattenwald
Plattenwand
5b+ Falkenbrut Sport 15m Very Good
Sat 12th Sep 2020 - Plattenwald
Plattenkreuz
5c Namenlos into Riss - with Jascha, Jacky Sport 18m Very Good
5c+ Gringitta - with Jascha, Jacky Sport 20m Very Good
7c Ohrakel - with Jascha, Jacky Sport 26m Classic
Is it more listening or telling?!?

 
7a Nasä ohni Böög - with Jascha, Jacky Sport 25m Very Good
Tue 8th Sep 2020 - Plattenwald
Plattenwand
7a+ Thomaso - with Ivo Sport 17m Very Good
Soft and chipped but good fun.

 
6b Aldo und Tilda - with Ivo Sport 15m Good
7b Desert Storm L1 - with Ivo Sport 15m Good
A bit of a omw. The extension is cool but was wet in the upper half.

 
Sun 6th Sep 2020 - Nordgalerie
Hauptwand
7b+ Black Pearl - with Anna Sport 25m Very Good
Mikes new route.

 
7b Rocksanne - with Anna Sport 25m Very Good
Anna's new route, straight after her first ascent. Tough start and a tricky section half way up.

 
7b Rock Office - with Ivo Sport 25m Very Good
Sat 5th Sep 2020 - Plattenwald
Plattenwand
6a Weberknecht - with Jacky Sport 22m Good
Felt nails

 
6c Gatto Rosso Extension - with Jacky Sport 23m Good
6c+ Für Nina - with Jacky Sport 20m Very Good
5b Balistoeffekt (Balistoeffeckt) - with Jacky Sport 20m Very Good
Thu 20th Aug 2020 - Deponie
Hauptsektor
7c Leistenbruch - with Jascha Sport 24m, 10 Very Good
Probably soft, but didn't feel like it on a 33degree day ;-)

 
Wed 12th Aug 2020 - Deponie
Hauptsektor
6c+ Venus - with Ivo Sport 30m, 16 Good
Climbing is good; rock not so much

 
Sun 9th Aug 2020 - Nordgalerie
Hauptwand
6c Rumborak - with Ivo Sport 35m, 16 Classic
7b Herkulis - with Ivo Sport 35m Very Good
I am essentially a half-god now!

 
Wed 22nd Jul 2020 - Plattenwald
Moriskenburg
7b La Rochade - with Ivo Sport 35m Very Good
Essentially the best move.

 
Sat 4th Jul 2020 - Nordgalerie
Hauptwand
7b+ 7b Corazon Negro - with Ivo Sport 35m Very Good
Went straight with the tiny crimps at the upper crux for the 7b+ version.

 
7a Zahir - with Ivo Sport 28m, 12 Classic
Thu 25th Jun 2020 - Nordgalerie
Hauptwand
6c Sparrow - Barbossa - with Ivo Sport 35m Very Good
Makes it a nice homogeneous climb. One day I have to try these routes with some daylight left...More light, less spiders ;-)

 
7b Grün ist die Hoffnung - with Ivo
1 6c
2 7b
Sport 35m, 15 Very Good
Finally, not an easy climb; some may even say not 7b...

 
Sat 13th Jun 2020 - Nordgalerie
Hauptwand
6b+ Arcimboldo - with Jascha Sport 25m, 10 Good
7a Samsum's Traum - with Jascha Sport 35m, 14 Classic
Like a dream

 
Fri 12th Jun 2020 - Hüttenkopf
6c Carfax Abbey - with Julie Sport 20m Good
6a Schattenspiel - with an awkward delight.
1 5c 15
2 6a 20
Sport 35m Very Good
2nd pitch is an awkward delight.

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 193 ascents.

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