Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
7a |
★★ Kamala
- with
Eveline K.
1
6c
35m
lead by
Eveline K.
2
7a
30m
lead by
Eveline K.
3
6b
25m
lead by
Eveline K.
6
6b+
40m
lead by
Eveline K.
7
6b
50m
lead by
Eveline K.
8
6c
30m
lead by
Eveline K.
| 300m | Kirchlispitzen South | ★★★ Classic | Wed 24th Aug 2022 | ||||
Amazing route. Quite demanding throughout. The pitch 7 "6b" is quite unde-rated. It is sustained technical move on a vertical slab. Amazing pitch but demanding!
Bolting:
First 3 pitches are really well bolted. Last 6 slightly more alpine but still very well protected.
2a section is not bolted but not tricky - just do not fall! . Some mild run-outs on the easy sections of the 6a+ length as well.
|
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6b |
★★★ Südkante
1
6a
40m
2
6b
35m
3
6a
20m
| 95m | Schijenzan | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 23rd May 2020 | ||||
6a+ |
★ Alpenkönig
- with
Richard
4
6a+
55m
5
6a
55m
6
6a
55m
7
5a
25m
8
5c+
55m
9
5c
25m
10
2a
60m
11
6a
45m
12
6a+
45m
13
6a+
35m
14
5a
55m
15
5b
55m
16
5a
50m
| 620m, 28 | Drusenfluh | Average | Sat 11th Jun 2022 | ||||
zml gewollte/gesuchte Linie, immer wieder verwirrend in der Wegfindung, weil oft nicht einer logischen Linie gefolgt wird.
Die ersten 3 Seillängen können über ein Schrofenband umgangen werden. |
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5a |
Südostwand
1
5a
35m
2
4c
25m
3
5a
20m
| 80m, 1 | Schijenzan | Average | Sun 24th May 2020 | ||||
7b+ |
★★★ Lanciamira
- with
Alex Pugh
1
5a
30
2
5c
40
3
6b
30
4
5c
45
5
6c
35
6
6a
40
7
6a+
50
8
4a
50
9
6a
30
10
6b
30
11
6b
40
12
6b
30
13
6b+
35
14
6c
30
15
7b+
20
16
6b
40
17
6b+
50
| 630m, 12 | Drusenfluh | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 15th Jul 2023 | ||||
6 Stars, Future Classic, Hidden Gem... If you don't love this route then you don't love climbing.
How to even begin? Best 6a+ and 6b+ pitch I've ever climbed. Was cussing my way up the wall at how good it all was. Immaculate limestone, bomber features. Cozy belays to free the toes. 7b+ crux pitch reminiscent of Yosemite's Separate Reality, cutting feet 500m in the air with nothing but the void below. Cramps in forearm hips lats and calves. Shade til 1p. What an ultra high value climb. Thank you Marcel for bolting this one! 17th ascent |
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6c+ |
★★★ Kasama
1
6b
2
5a
3
6b
4
6c+
5
6c+
| 150m | Schweizeregg | ★★★ Classic | Fri 14th Jul 2023 | ||||
Epic first and fourth pitch, led all
|
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7b+ | Biräweich | Schlifi | Wed 19th Jul 2023 | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ Logo - with Moxi | Schlifi | ★★ Very Good | Mon 14th Oct 2019 | |||||
8- | ★★★ Galadriel | 420m | Kirchlispitzen South | Fri 25th Oct 2019 | |||||
8- | ★★★ Galadriel - with Simon | 420m | Kirchlispitzen South | ★★★ Classic | Wed 25th Aug 2021 | ||||
6c |
★★★ Via Pardutz
1
3a
450m
2
4a
3
5c
4
6a
5
4a
6
6b
7
6b
8
6c
9
5b
10
4a
11
3c
12
2a
13
6a
| 450m | Kirchlispitzen South | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th Jun 2019 | ||||
6c | ?1 - with Andreas Aachen, Jascha, Ivo | 20m | Schlifi | Average | Thu 11th Jun 2020 | ||||
To clamped between the 6as...
|
|||||||||
6b 6c | ★★ ?2 - with Moxi | Gruobastutz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st Feb 2021 | |||||
Went a bit too far left at the middle. More like 6b then.
|
|||||||||
6c | ?1 | 20m | Schlifi | Fri 21st Jul 2023 | |||||
6+ A1 6+ A1 | ★★ Via Justus | 350m | Kirchlispitzen South | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th May 2019 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Harakiri - with Moxi | Gruobastutz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st Feb 2021 | |||||
7 | ★ Sunnablendi | 10m | Grüsch | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Aug 2011 | ||||
7 | ★ Sunnablendi - with Moxi | 10m | Grüsch | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Sep 2016 | ||||
Etwas schmierig und man muss schon etwas Griffe suchen, aber doch recht schön.
|
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6b | ★ Die Unmittelbare - with Moxi | 30m | Schlifi | ★ Good | Mon 14th Oct 2019 | ||||
6b | ★★ Rialto | 650m | Chlein Venedig | ★★ Very Good | Thu 15th Sep 2016 | ||||
6a+ 6b | ★★ Kathedrale | 750m | Chlein Venedig | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Apr 2020 | ||||
6b | ★ Die Unmittelbare - with Ivo | 30m | Schlifi | ★ Good | Thu 11th Jun 2020 | ||||
6b | ★★ Rialto - with Mikko | 650m | Chlein Venedig | ★★ Very Good | 2019 | ||||
6a+ 6b | ★★ Kathedrale | 750m | Chlein Venedig | ★ Good | 2019 | ||||
6a+ 6b | ★★ Kathedrale | 750m | Chlein Venedig | Sat 29th Aug 2020 | |||||
6b | ★★ Rialto | 650m | Chlein Venedig | ★ Good | Sat 29th Aug 2020 | ||||
6b | ★★ Creonda | 550m | Chlein Venedig | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th Sep 2022 | ||||
6b | ★★ Rialto | 650m | Chlein Venedig | ★ Good | Fri 9th Jun 2023 | ||||
6b | ★★ Kathedrale | 750m | Chlein Venedig | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th Jun 2023 | ||||
Durchaus viel Schroffen unter den 19SL, aber trotzdem toll!
|
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6b | ★★★ Sichla | 140m | Chlein Venedig | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th Jun 2023 | ||||
Nicht übersichert, man muss den Grad schon zwingend klettern.
|
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6b |
★★ Kathedrale
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
| 750m | Chlein Venedig | ★★ Very Good | Mon 10th Jul 2023 | ||||
6hrs, 3L water, do the last two traverses as a single 55m pitch for some spice
|
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6b |
Abendspaziergang
1
5a
2
4c
3
6b
4
6a
Amazing
5
6a
| 180m | Klettergarten Gruoben | Wed 12th Jul 2023 | |||||
6b ~6b+ | Al Bandi - with Philip | 15m | Schlifi | Don't Bother | Wed 12th Jul 2023 | ||||
6b ~6b | ★★ Kathedrale | 750m | Chlein Venedig | ★★ Very Good | Thu 3rd Aug 2023 | ||||
Sehr schöne Tour welche bei dieser länge natürlich auch Grasbänder ausweist. Nach Regen lange nass (bei uns war SL5 kompeltt nass bei regen am Vortag). Wenn mehrere Seilschaften in der Tour sind auf Steinschlag achten. Tourenbericht: https://klettertagebuch.wordpress.com/2023/07/31/chlein-venedig-kathedrale-6b/
|
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6b Hard | ★★ Kathedrale | 750m | Chlein Venedig | ★★ Very Good | Thu 7th Sep 2023 | ||||
6b Hard |
★★ Kathedrale
1
4b
2
4c
3
6a
4
5a
5
6a+
6
5c+
7
4a
8
6a
9
5c
10
4b
11
6a+
12
6a+
13
4c
14
6b
15
6b
16
5a
17
2a
| 750m | Chlein Venedig | ★★ Very Good | Thu 7th Sep 2023 | ||||
1.5L water/person, not a lot of bolted protection, I would recommend climbing with extra protection (friends 1-3), climbing time 7-9 hours, couldn’t find anchor on last pitch so had to free solo,
|
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6c+ | Aurora | 790m | Chlein Venedig | Average | Sat 9th Sep 2023 | ||||
Irgenda Kombi us Aurora & Goht scho. Ganz verwirrende Bewertung und Routenverlauf
|
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6b | ★★ Kathedrale | 750m | Chlein Venedig | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | ||||
The first 12 pitches feel like they are part of the approach: Nice climbing pitches alternate with grasslands (garnished with gravel). But once you reach the great cave, you will encounter some really superb pitches. Lots of traffic. Don't expect to be alone here.
|
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6a+ | Pfiilerroutä | Klettergarten Gruoben | Tue 28th Apr 2020 | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Via Hebdiguot - with Andreas Aachen, Jascha, Philip | 20m | Schlifi | ★★ Very Good | Thu 11th Jun 2020 | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Via Hebdiguot - with Moxi | 20m | Schlifi | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Jun 2020 | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Via Hebdiguot - with Philip | 20m | Schlifi | ★ Good | Sat 13th Jun 2020 | ||||
6c 6a+ | ★ Alpenkönig - with marco | 750m, 28 | Drusenfluh | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Aug 2022 | ||||
5th pitch is 6c
|
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6a+ | ★★★ Harakiri links - with Anika | Gruobastutz | ★★★ Classic | Mon 15th Aug 2022 | |||||
6c 6a+ | ★ Alpenkönig | 750m, 28 | Drusenfluh | ★★ Very Good | Wed 24th Aug 2022 | ||||
6a+ stimmt nur wenn mandie Crux A0 macht oder links umgeht. sonst ~6c
|
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6a+ |
★★ Ghettoprinz
1
6a+
25
2
6a
25
3
6a+
25
| 75m | Klettergarten Seehorn | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Jun 2022 | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Via Hebdiguot | 20m | Schlifi | Fri 21st Jul 2023 | |||||
6a | 13 direkt | 40m | Klettergarten Seehorn | Tue 28th Apr 2020 | |||||
6a | Adieu Welt | 55m | Klettergarten Seehorn | Tue 28th Apr 2020 | |||||
6a | ★★ 5er Verschneidung - with Andreas Aachen, Jascha, Ivo | 20m | Schlifi | ★★ Very Good | Thu 11th Jun 2020 | ||||
Nice climbing
|
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6a | ★★ 5er Verschneidung - with Andreas Aachen, Jascha, Philip | 20m | Schlifi | Thu 11th Jun 2020 | |||||
6a+ 6a | ★★★ Abraxas | 550m | Chlein Venedig | ★★★ Classic | Fri 24th Sep 2021 | ||||
6a | ★ ?2 | Schlifi | ★ Good | Mon 24th Jul 2023 | |||||
6a | ★★ ?3 | Schlifi | ★★ Very Good | Mon 24th Jul 2023 | |||||
6a | ★★★ Abraxas | 550m | Chlein Venedig | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Oct 2022 | ||||
6a | 13 direkt | 40m | Klettergarten Seehorn | Sat 14th Oct 2023 | |||||
5c+ | ★★ Neumann-Stanek | 240m | Sulzfluh | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Apr 2020 | ||||
5c+ | Geburtstagstour | Klettergarten Gruoben | Tue 28th Apr 2020 | ||||||
5c+ | Tilisunawäg | Klettergarten Gruoben | Tue 28th Apr 2020 | ||||||
6a 5c+ | Via Peter | 70m | Klettergarten Seehorn | Tue 28th Apr 2020 | |||||
5c+ | ★★ Neumann-Stanek | 240m | Sulzfluh | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Aug 2020 | ||||
6a |
Via Peter
- with
Tabitha Knoor
1
6a
25m
2
4a
25m
3
5b
20m
| 70m | Klettergarten Seehorn | Sat 16th Jul 2022 | |||||
5c+ | ★★ Schranz - with Tabitha Knoor | 35m | Klettergarten Seehorn | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Jul 2022 | ||||
5c+ |
★★ Ballerina
- with
la waifu
1
45m
2
50m
3
50m
4
30m
| 180m | Chlein Venedig | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd Jul 2023 | ||||
there's a further bolt past the summit anchor
|
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5c | ★★★ Gandalf der Weise | Familien Klettergarten Partnun | ★★★ Classic | Sun 18th Jun 2023 | |||||
5+ 6 | ★★★ Kleine Hexe Shota | Familien Klettergarten Partnun | Sat 6th Jul 2019 | ||||||
6 | ★★★ Kleine Hexe Shota | Familien Klettergarten Partnun | ★★★ Classic | Sun 18th Jun 2023 | |||||
5b | Adler | 90m | Klettergarten Seehorn | Tue 28th Apr 2020 | |||||
5b | ★★★ Sunshine Reggae | Sulzfluh | ★★★ Classic | Sat 3rd Jun 2023 | |||||
5b | ★★★ Sunshine Reggae - with Thorsten Görnhardt | Sulzfluh | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Sep 2023 | |||||
5b | Adler | 90m | Klettergarten Seehorn | Sat 14th Oct 2023 | |||||
5a+ | ★★ Geisterbahn | 150m | Seeflüeli | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Jun 2023 | ||||
5a+ | ★★ Geisterbahn | 150m | Seeflüeli | ★★★ Classic | Sun 18th Jun 2023 | ||||
5a+ | ★★ Nordostwand | 75m, 1 | Schijenzan | Sat 7th Oct 2023 | |||||
5a | Open Air | 100m | Klettergarten Seehorn | Tue 28th Apr 2020 | |||||
5a | Schlarpazwicker | 45m | Klettergarten Seehorn | Tue 28th Apr 2020 | |||||
5a | Südostwand - with olga b | 80m, 1 | Schijenzan | Wed 26th Aug 2020 | |||||
5a | Südostwand | 80m, 1 | Schijenzan | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | |||||
5a | alter Schlaghakenriss | 20m | Schijenzan | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | |||||
5+ | ★★★ Hinterstoisser Quergang | Familien Klettergarten Partnun | ★★★ Classic | Sun 18th Jun 2023 | |||||
4c | Uhrenmachern - with olga b | 170m | Klettergarten Gruoben | Mon 24th Aug 2020 | |||||
5 | ★★ Wändli - with Moxi, Biba, Cury | 7m | Grüsch | ★ Good | Sun 12th Aug 2018 | ||||
4b | ★★ Route 13 | 110m | Klettergarten Seehorn | Tue 28th Apr 2020 | |||||
4b | ★★ Route 13 | 110m | Klettergarten Seehorn | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Jun 2022 | ||||
5- | ★ Dächli | 7m | Grüsch | ★ Good | Sun 14th Aug 2011 | ||||
5- | ★ Dächli - with Moxi, Biba, Cury | 7m | Grüsch | ★ Good | Sun 12th Aug 2018 | ||||
4a | ★★ Fän Weg | 65m | Klettergarten Seehorn | ★★ Very Good | Fri 5th Jul 2019 | ||||
4a | ★★ Fän Weg | 65m | Klettergarten Seehorn | Tue 28th Apr 2020 | |||||
3b | JO Grätli | 45m | Klettergarten Seehorn | Tue 28th Apr 2020 | |||||
5c+ |
★★ Neumann-Stanek
1
3a
30m
2
3a
30m
3
2b
20m
4
2c
20m
5
4a
15m
6
5a
20m
7
4c
25m
8
5c+
20m
9
4b
20m
10
5c+
18m
11
5a+
20m
12
5b
13
5b
| 240m | Sulzfluh | Average | Fri 19th Jul 2019 | ||||
Die ersten, sechs leichteren Seillängen sind ziemlich brüchig und durch die wenigen Bohrhaken ist die Orientierung nicht immer einfach.
Wenn man nach der 3. SL den Vorbau hinter sich gelassen hat, wird es etwas verwirrend: der Stand ist eher links. Weiter geht es aber, indem man ca. 30 m horizontal quert (geht ohne Seil). Dort findet sich ein einzelner BH in 2-3 Meter Höhe. Von dort habe wir weitergesichert, da man sonst Seilzug ohne Ende hätte. Entweder haben wir den richtigen Stand nicht gefunden oder das Topo von topoguide stimmt nicht. Ab der 7. SL hat es langsam was mit klettern zu tun, auch die erste 5c+ ist schön. Den Salon und diese überhängende Querung fand ich recht unangenehm, hab mir da mal A0 gegönnt. Die zwei Ausstiegslängen haben es dann auch in sich: man kommt erst zu nem Loch, das man außen überklettern muss und in eine überhängende, anstrengende Position gezwängt wird. Danach geht's weiter in einem abdrängenden Risskamin, musste ganz schön kämpfen und hab mich an allem festgehalten was es gab (auch ne Uraltreepschnur an ner Rostgurke - hat aber gehalten). Also mit der Aussage "Genusskletterei in bestem Fels" (Panico) würde ich mich eher distanzieren bzw. trifft das höchstens auf einzelne Seillängen zu. Die Schwierigkeitsbewertung hier stimmt mit der von Panico, topoguide und meiner nicht überein. Topoguide: Vorbau: 3b,4a,3a Route: 3a,2b,2c,4a,5a,4c,5c+,4b,5c+,5a+,5b Wobei man die vorletzte auch ruhig 5b bewerten könnte.. gefühlt waren beide eher 5c, aber lag wahrscheinlich an meiner fehlenden Risstechnik. Einstiegskoordinaten am Vorbau: 47 00.762N 09 50.027E |
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7b | ★★ Don Bizeps - with Ivo | 15m | Schlifi | ★★ Very Good | Thu 11th Jun 2020 | ||||
7a+ | ★★ Logo - with Philip | Schlifi | ★★ Very Good | Mon 14th Oct 2019 | |||||
7a+ | ★★ El Grito - with Philip | Gruobastutz | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st Feb 2021 | |||||
6c | ?1 - with Philip | 20m | Schlifi | ★ Good | Thu 11th Jun 2020 | ||||
A bit contrived
|
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6b 6c | ★★ ?2 - with Philip | Gruobastutz | ★ Good | Sun 21st Feb 2021 | |||||
7+ | ★★ Höch Sibner - with Philip | 10m | Grüsch | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Sep 2016 | ||||
7+ | ★ Knoblix - with Moxi | 9m | Grüsch | Average | Sat 3rd Sep 2016 | ||||
Etwas fingerlastiges Ding
|
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6b+ | ★★ Harakiri - with Philip | Gruobastutz | ★ Good | Sun 21st Feb 2021 | |||||
7 | ★ Sunnablendi - with Philip | 10m | Grüsch | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Sep 2016 | ||||
6b | ★ Die Unmittelbare - with Philip | 30m | Schlifi | ★ Good | Mon 14th Oct 2019 |