Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Albigna Eisfall Albigna | ||||||||
WI3 |
★★ Il Fiume Ghiacciato
- with
D.Raymann
1
50m
lead by
D.Raymann
Singular geklettert
2
50m
lead by
D.Raymann
Singular geklettert
3
50m
lead by
D.Raymann
Singular geklettertr
4
50m
lead by
D.Riget
5
50m
lead by
D.Raymann
| 250m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 15th Jan 2023 | ||||
Schöne Route aber war eine Ziemlich nasse angelegenheit
|
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Albigna Cima dal Cantun | ||||||||
3a | ★★ S-Grat | Fri 4th Sep 2020 | ||||||
3a | ★★ S-Grat | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Jul 2021 | |||||
3a | ★★ S-Grat | Wed 21st Jun 2023 | ||||||
Albigna Punta Pioda | ||||||||
6- | ★★ North West Ridge | 1000m | ★ Good | Tue 25th Jul 2006 | ||||
Bailed out two pitches above roof because of rain.
|
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7+ 6- | ★★ North West Ridge | 1000m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th Aug 2017 | ||||
6- | ★★ North West Ridge | 1000m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 11th Dec 2023 | ||||
Albigna Vergine - Al Gal | ||||||||
4c | ★★★ Traverse Vergine - Al Gal | 300m, 5 | Fri 23rd Jun 2023 | |||||
4c | ★★★ Traverse Vergine - Al Gal | 300m, 5 | Wed 26th Jul 2023 | |||||
Albigna Piz Frachiccio | ||||||||
6a | ★ Schildkröte | Sat 4th Jul 2015 | ||||||
6a | ★ Schildkröte | Sat 4th Jul 2015 | ||||||
Albigna Ago di Sciora | ||||||||
6- | ★★ Via Kaspar | ★★ Very Good | Mon 24th Jul 2006 | |||||
rappeled off from lower half of pillar
|
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Albigna Punta da l'Albigna | ||||||||
4c | W-Pfeiler - with Anatolijus Vanagickas, Mi, Milda Jasaityte | Wed 6th Aug 2014 | ||||||
5c | ★★ Steiger | 450m | Mon 23rd Aug 2021 | |||||
5c | ★★ Steiger | 450m | Sat 27th Aug 2016 | |||||
5c |
★★ Steiger
- with
oliver
1
3b
2
4a
3
3b
4
4b
5
3b
6
4c
7
3b
8
4c
9
4b
10
5b
11
5c
12
5b
13
3b
14
5a
15
4b
16
3b
| 450m | Sun 20th Aug 2023 | |||||
5c | ★★ Steiger | 450m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Sep 2023 | ||||
4a |
★★ Steiger
18
4a
19
3b
20
3b
21
3c
22
3b
| 450m | Sun 6th Aug 2023 | |||||
Didn't climbed the last 7 pithes
|
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5c | ★★ Steiger | 450m | Sat 27th Aug 2016 | |||||
5a | ★★ Moderne Zeiten - with Andreas S. | Average | Sun 25th Sep 2016 | |||||
Teilweise kein Bohrhaken zwischen den Ständen gefunden. Topo aus dem SAC Führer stimmt nicht so recht. Insgesamt keine Wiederholung wert.
|
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5a | ★★ Moderne Zeiten | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st Aug 2017 | |||||
5a | ★★ Moderne Zeiten - with Anatolijus Vanagickas, Milda Jasaityte | Wed 6th Aug 2014 | ||||||
5a | ★★ Moderne Zeiten | Tue 13th Aug 2013 | ||||||
5a | ★★ Moderne Zeiten | Tue 13th Aug 2013 | ||||||
4b | ★★★ Via Meuli | Wed 8th May 2019 | ||||||
4b | ★★★ Via Meuli - with Jonino | Fri 2nd Jul 2021 | ||||||
4b | ★★★ Via Meuli | ★★★ Classic | Tue 12th Jul 2022 | |||||
Die 6 Seillängen auf den Gipfel zusätzlich (3a bis 4c).
|
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4b | ★★★ Via Meuli - with rimann | Sat 24th Jul 2021 | ||||||
it started to rain... :-(
|
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Albigna Seeplatten | ||||||||
4b | ★★ Via Lucia e Marcello | 140m | Wed 11th Aug 2021 | |||||
4b | ★★ Via Lucia e Marcello | 140m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Aug 2023 | ||||
5a+ |
★★ Wassersinfonie
1
5a+
140m
2
5a
3
4c
4
3c
5
3b
| 140m | ★ Good | Tue 19th Jul 2022 | ||||
Albigna Piz Balzet | ||||||||
4 | ★ WSW Ridge (Albigna Geist) | 800m | ★ Good | Wed 22nd Jul 2009 | ||||
Another climb on my trip. We made a mistake, and bailed at the fore-summit -- thinking Bacun was Balzet, and we didn't have time to finish.
|
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4c | S-Grat | 300m | Thu 3rd Sep 2020 | |||||
4c | S-Grat | 300m | Sat 24th Jun 2023 | |||||
4c | S-Grat | 300m | Sat 9th Sep 2023 | |||||
4c | S-Grat | 300m | Sat 6th Jul 2019 | |||||
6a+ |
★★★ Via del Gipeto
1
3b
2
6a+
3
5b
4
4a
5
6a
6
6a
7
4b
8
5c
9
3a
10
5c
11
5b
12
4c
13
4b
14
4b
| 600m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd Aug 2020 | ||||
The cruxes in pitches 2, 6 and 10 cost us some time. Especially the move in pitch 6 has to be done above to bolt and is a delicate move with not-so-good underclings and nothing to stand on. I ended up aiding it with the help of a camalot #1...
Up to pitch 9 the route is well bolted. In pitch 10 there are some 5b-ish moves at the beginning of the pitch that would result in a ground-fall when done wrong and further up there is a delicate slab (5c-ish) that has to be safely climbed if you don't want to fall 10m... |
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6a+ | ★★★ Via del Gipeto | 600m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Jul 2023 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ Via del Gipeto | 600m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 10th Sep 2023 | ||||
4a | ★★ SW Ridge - with Bernhard Streicher | 750m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 10th Aug 2009 | ||||
5c+ | ★★ Spidi | 280m | Sun 15th Aug 2021 | |||||
5c+ | ★★ Spidi | 280m | Sat 6th Jul 2019 | |||||
5c+ |
★★ Spidi
1
5a
2
5b+
3
5b+
4
3c
5
5a
6
5c
7
5c+
| 280m | Tue 18th Jul 2023 | |||||
5c+ | ★★ Spidi - with Martina | 280m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Jul 2023 | ||||
schöne Linie, super im Plaisirstil abgesichert
|
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5c+ |
★★ Spidi
1
5a
2
5b+
3
5b+
4
3c
5
5a
6
5c
didn't climb
7
5c+
didn't climb | 280m | Tue 8th Aug 2023 | |||||
5c+ | ★★ Spidi — 2 attempts | 280m | Sat 6th Jul 2019 | |||||
6c+ | ★★★ Face-to-Face | 150m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 29th Aug 2008 | ||||
10Sl (inkl 6c+), mit Mirko, Einstieg über Spidi, SRII
|
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Albigna Spazzacaldeira | ||||||||
5b | ★★ Guarda Ben | Sun 25th Jun 2023 | ||||||
6b | ★★ Guarda Ben - with ela, Janis, janis, me | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Oct 2023 | |||||
6a+ |
★ Fiamma Via Süd
1
5a
2
5a
3
5b+
4
5c
5
5b
6
6a+
7
5c+
8
5a
| Mon 17th Jul 2023 | ||||||
6b 6a+ | ★★ Via Leni | 150m, 14 | Wed 16th Sep 2009 | |||||
6b 6a+ | ★★ Via Leni | 150m, 14 | ★ Good | Mon 20th Jul 2009 | ||||
Swung leads. (Date not exact -- was late July 2009 trip to the Alps.)
|
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6b 6a+ | ★★ Via Leni (Leni) | 150m, 14 | Mon 25th Aug 2008 | |||||
5Sl, mit Anika
|
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6a+ |
★★ Via Leni
1
5c
150m
2
6a+
3
5c
4
5c
5
5c+
| 150m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd Aug 2020 | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Via Leni | 150m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | 1995 | ||||
6a+ |
★★ Via Leni
- with
Jonino
1
5c
150m
2
6a+
3
5c
4
5c
5
5c+
| 150m, 14 | Wed 30th Jun 2021 | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Via Leni | 150m, 14 | Sun 23rd Jun 2019 | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Via Leni - with Arginator | 150m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 4th Aug 2023 | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Via Leni | 150m, 14 | Fri 11th Aug 2023 | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Via Leni — 2 attempts | 150m, 14 | Sun 23rd Jun 2019 | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Lasciamili | 10 | Fri 8th Jul 2022 | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Lasciamili | 10 | Tue 15th Aug 2023 | |||||
5c |
★★★ Lasciamili
1
5a
30
2
5c
20
| 50m, 10 | Mon 25th Sep 2023 | |||||
This is the route we intended to do but did only first two pitches. Should have headed left of second dihedral after this, but went up between dihedrals. Dave linked both pitches.
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6b+ | ★★ Buttamigiu | 200m | Wed 2nd Aug 2023 | |||||
6b+ |
★★ Buttamigiu
2
5c+
35
Kind of did half of this in our confusion
3
6a+
30
Hard moves getting to belay well above bolt.
4
6b+
50
Used a nice kneebar low, and found the hardest move up stepping off a small pinnacle.
5
4a
45
A route takes off directly above where you top out that would make a good link up | 160m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 25th Sep 2023 | ||||
Apart from route confusion which seems to afflict many people who start on Lascimili and end up on this, Pitches 3 and 4 were great. The bolting is weird, near good trad placements then run out. Route deserves more traffic. Best to walk off. The connecting cord at anchors is very tatty and needs replacing-Especially getting to top of pitch 3 where it appears some people aid on the long bit of rope hanging down. A single set of cams 0.3 to #2 helpful.
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5c 6a | ★★ NE Ridge Direct Variante Nigg (NE Ridge Direct (Nigg)) | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Aug 2009 | |||||
A classic thin arete, with Rolts.
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6a | ★★ NE Ridge Direct Variante Nigg - with Franz | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Jul 2022 | |||||
Really nice pitches to the NE ridge. No additional gear necessary. Plaisir.
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6a | ★★ NE Ridge Direct Variante Nigg | ★ Good | Fri 7th Jul 2023 | |||||
6a | ★★ NE Ridge Direct Variante Nigg | Sun 14th Jul 2013 | ||||||
4c | ★★ NE-Ridge | Sat 14th Aug 2021 | ||||||
4c | ★★ NE-Ridge - with Skambi | ★★★ Classic | Fri 18th Jun 2021 | |||||
4c | ★★ NE-Ridge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 22nd Jul 2022 | |||||
4c | ★★ NE-Ridge | Sat 5th Sep 2020 | ||||||
4c | ★★ NE-Ridge — 3 attempts | Tue 30th Aug 2016 | ||||||
6a | ★★ Dente per Dente | Sat 21st Sep 2019 | ||||||
6a |
★★ Dente per Dente
1
5b
2
5b
3
5c
4
5a
5
5b
6
6a
7
6a
8
5c
| ★★ Very Good | Mon 18th Jul 2022 | |||||
6a | ★★ Dente per Dente | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 25th Jul 2022 | |||||
6a | ★★ Dente per Dente - with Franz | ★ Good | Sat 30th Jul 2022 | |||||
6a | ★★ Dente per Dente | Thu 2nd Aug 2018 | ||||||
6a | ★★ Dente per Dente | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Jul 2022 | |||||
6a | ★★ Dente per Dente | Thu 2nd Aug 2018 | ||||||
6a | ★★★ Il mosaico, Via Felici - with Andreas S. | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Sep 2016 | |||||
6a | ★★★ Il mosaico, Via Felici | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 26th Sep 2019 | |||||
6a | ★★★ Il mosaico, Via Felici | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Apr 2020 | |||||
6a |
★★★ Il mosaico, Via Felici
1
5a
2
5c
3
5c+
4
5c
5
3a
6
6a
7
4b
| ★★ Very Good | Thu 20th Aug 2020 | |||||
The bolts are set a bit weirdly. So in the slab on the first pitch, there is a somewhat delicate travese to the third bolt - slipping there would result in a ground fall.
The third pitch on the other hand could be easily protected with gear, but there are enough bolts (and "friends forever") so it's not really necessary. The crux is an undercling move with almost nothing to stand on. |
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6a | ★★★ Il mosaico, Via Felici - with Emil | ★★★ Classic | Sat 12th Sep 2020 | |||||
6a | ★★★ Il mosaico, Via Felici | Sat 14th Aug 2021 | ||||||
6a | ★★★ Il mosaico, Via Felici | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th Aug 2021 | |||||
6a | ★★★ Il mosaico, Via Felici | Sat 14th Aug 2021 | ||||||
6b |
★★★ Il mosaico, Via Felici
1
5a
2
5c
3
6a+
4
5c
5
3a
6
6b
7
4b
8
4c
9
3b
10
3a
11
12
13
14
15
| ★★★ Classic | Wed 20th Jul 2022 | |||||
Fantastic. The view, the ridge, the superb granite.
|
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6a |
★★★ Il mosaico, Via Felici
- with
Eveline K.
2
5c
40
lead by
Eveline K.
4
5c
40
lead by
Eveline K.
6
6a
30
lead by
Eveline K.
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
| 240m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 13th Jul 2022 | ||||
Very nice ascent./ A classic.
First 5a slab is a bit engaged above 2nd bolt. But feels OK as long as belayer is ready to run down a little.
Extra cams (C4 size 1), Z4 (0.75, 0.5, some 0.3 as well) can be useful. IMPORTANT: especially important because the 4b pitch is barely secured (I think there is only 1 bolt for 30 m).
Connection to Fiamma possible HOWEVER not secured. So cams and some nuts might be useful (in this case you need approx 5 to 10 depending on how comfortable you are + anchor setting equipment) - having a couple of cams above 1 size would have been useful there (didn't have any)). But easy terrain in 3 / 4 grade. The only thing not so nice is the amount of rope drag you will get!
Definitely worth it though!
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6a | ★★★ Il mosaico, Via Felici | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 16th Aug 2022 | |||||
Skipped Fiamma (15th pitch) not to queue up and be on time for the last funicular
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6a ~6a+ | ★★★ Il mosaico, Via Felici | Sat 8th Jul 2023 | ||||||
6a | ★★★ Il mosaico, Via Felici | ★★★ Classic | Fri 7th Jul 2023 | |||||
6a | ★★★ Il mosaico, Via Felici | Sat 12th Aug 2023 | ||||||
6a |
★★★ Il mosaico, Via Felici
1
5a
2
5c
Achtung Seilzug
3
5c+
4
5c
Seil verklemmt.
5
3a
6
6a
7
4b
| ★★★ Classic | Tue 15th Aug 2023 | |||||
6a | ★★★ Il mosaico, Via Felici | Sat 1st Nov 2014 | ||||||
6a | ★★ Nasi Goreng - with Martina | 290m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Jul 2023 | ||||
Coole Linie, aber weit schlechter abgesichert als im SAC GR Führer angegeben
|
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6a+ | ★★★ Steinfresser | 180m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 28th Jun 2022 | ||||
6a+ 6b | ★★ Nuova Via Per Claudia | 180m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 25th Aug 2008 | ||||
4Sl, mit Mirko
|