| Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Unknown | |||||
| 4a | Arête
| 10m | St Triphon | ||
| 4b | Ostplatten 1
| 2 | Alpstein | ||
| 4b | Südwand
FA: A. Duttweiler & S. Pulver, 1941 | Alpstein | |||
| 4b | Crack
| 22m | Stalvedro | ||
| 4a | ★ Riviera
| 22m | Stalvedro | ||
| 4a | Nordgrat
very loose FA: H. Lucchetta & E. Rüesch, 1913 | Alpstein | |||
| {UIAA} FR:4a | W Wall | 750m | Albigna | ||
| {UIAA} FR:4a | ★★ SW Ridge | 750m | Albigna | ||
| Traverse | |||||
| FB_TRAV_ALT:4 | ★★ Chauffe-Knapp | 8m | Neuchâtel Jura | ||
| Trad | |||||
| 4a | ★★ Turm I
First of the towers. A bit polished ridge climbing. | 85m, 5, 8 | Pilatus | ||
| 4b | ★★★ Ostgrat
Alte, klassische Klettertour von 1941. Das waagrechte Gratstück ist sehr schön, der Rest mässig und oft schuttig. Als gesamte Tour lohnend. In der gesamten Tour wurden in den letzten Jahren 30 neue Bohrhacken gesetzt. Nun problemlos am verkürzten Seil begehbar und keine vollen Seillängen nötig. Von Hansueli Rhyner 2006 mit Bohrhaken nachgerüstet. | 450m, 10 | Gletscherhorn | ||
| 4b | ★ Südpfeiler
1
1
25m
2
3b
35m
3
4a
15m
4
4b
40m
5
4a
30m
6
4a
45m
7
3a
40m
| 230m, 7 | Churfirsten | ||
| 4a | Alte Süd
1
2a
10m
2
1
40m
3
3b
25m
4
2a
30m
5
4a
35m
6
3b
25m
7
4a
40m
| 210m, 7 | Churfirsten | ||
| 4b | Libery
1
4b
2
4b
Set: B.e.K.Müller, 1987 | 120m, 2, 10 | Passo del San Gottardo | ||
| 4a | ★★ Röbikante
1
4a
25m
2
3a
35m
3
4a
25m
4
2c
30m
5
3c
35m
6
2a
30m
| 180m, 6 | Alpstein | ||
| {UIAA} 4+ | Alte Südwand | Linthal | |||
| 4a | SE-Grat | Albigna | |||
| 4b | Ostsüdostflanke
FA: A. Duttweiler & S. Pulver, 1938 | Alpstein | |||
| 4 | ★ WSW Ridge (Albigna Geist) | 800m | Albigna | ||
| 4b | ★★ Sunnäplättli
1
4a
2
4a
3
3a
4
1
5
1
6
3a
7
1
8
3a
9
4a
10
4b
11
4a
12
4a
| 12 | Glärnischhütte | ||
| 4a | Südwand
1
3c
25m
2
3c
20m
3
3c
25m
4
3c
30m
5
4a
45m
| 150m, 5 | Alpstein | ||
| 4b | Südrippe
| Alpstein | |||
| 4a | Gross Chärpf direkt | 75m, 3, 7 | Leglerhütte | ||
| 4a | ★★ von Osten Direkt
| 4 | Alpstein | ||
| {UIAA} 4+ | Westriss
1
4
25m
2
4+
25m
3
4
20m
4
3
30m
5
3+
30m
6
3
45m
| 180m, 6 | Bockmattli | ||
| 4a | Gross Chärpf Variante rechts | 85m, 3, 8 | Leglerhütte | ||
| 4a | Weckerdtriss | 4, 6 | Alpstein | ||
| 4b | Riss
| 20m | Basler Jura | ||
| 4a | Südpfeiler
1
1
80m
2
4a
30m
3
2c
40m
4
3c
40m
5
2a
40m
6
2a
30m
7
2a
30m
8
1a
25m
9
2c
35m
10
2a
40m
11
3c
30m
12
3b
30m
FA: W. Flaig & F. Zorell, 1922 | 450m, 13 | Kirchlispitzen South | ||
| 4b | ★★ Westkante
1
2b
2
4b
3
2c
4
3c
5
4a
6
3c
7
3c
8
4b
| 7 | Engelhörner | ||
| 4b | Schmugglerweg
Form the Südkamin as a variant to the summit. | 5 | Alpstein | ||
| 4b | ★★★ Grande arête
1
3b
2
3b
3
4a
4
4b
5
4a
3a obl. Gratkletterei | 4 | Berner Jura | ||
| 4b | Nordwand
1
4b
35m
2
4b
35m
FA: B. Jnecht & A. Steiner, 1935 | 70m, 2, 2 | Alpstein | ||
| 4b - 5c+ | Südpfeiler
FA: T. Hiebler & R. Heinzel, 1956 | 660m, 17 | Sulzfluh | ||
| 4a | ★★ Westwand
1
4a
40m
2
4a
30m
FA: R. Güttler, G. Heinrich & E. Oppe, 1907 | 70m, 2, 6 | Alpstein | ||
| 4a | Grätli
1
4a
2
3a
| 2 | Flüelatal | ||
| 4a | Kamin
| 25m | Basler Jura | ||
| 4a | Ostgrat
FA: R. Güttler, G. Heinrich & E. Oppe, 1907 | 45m, 2 | Alpstein | ||
| 4b | ★★ Nordwestflanke
1
30m
2
3a
30m
3
2b
30m
4
3a
45m
5
3b
20m
6
4a
30m
7
4b
25m
8
4a
35m
9
3c
45m
10
2b
45m
11
3b
35m
| 370m, 12 | Engelhörner | ||
| 4b | Nordost-Verschneidung
komplett clean, auch kein Stand vorhanden. Kein Ausstieg nach oben. Route muss wieder abgeklettert und Zwischensicherungen dabei entfernt werden. Mittelgrosse friends, grosse Rocks, kleine Hexentrics, etc. FA: Fabian Anthamatten, 18 Jul 2021 | Herisau | |||
| 4a | West
1
3c
35m
2
2a
25m
3
4a
40m
4
4a
40m
5
2c
30m
6
3c
15m
FA: R. Dubler, M. Herzig, F. Mellinger & H. Wirth, 1944 | 190m, 6 | Alpstein | ||
| {UIAA} 5- A1 | Direkte Nordwand | Bockmattli | |||
| 4a | Nordwand
FA: R. Güttler, M. Hager & F. Zöbisch, 1908 | Alpstein | |||
| 4b | Stockhorn-Bietschhorn Überschreitung
The classic route combines Stockhorn south ridge and Bietschhorn south ridge. FA: E. Friedli & R. Homberger, 1964 | Baltschiedertal | |||
| 4a | Östliche Südwand
FA: W. Risch & H. Schmid, 1920 | Drusentürme Süd | |||
| {UIAA} 5- | Südgrat | 4 | Bockmattli | ||
| 4b | ★ Südwand
1
3c
35m
2
3b
25m
3
3a
30m
4
3c
35m
5
4b
35m
6
2a
30m
7
1
45m
8
2a
FA: W. Knoblich & W. Sieber, 1921 | 240m, 8, 3 | Alpstein | ||
| 4b | ★★★ Kreuzbandweg
1
4a
2
4a
3
4a
4
3b
5
4a
6
3a
7
4a
8
4a
9
4a
10
4a
11
2b
12
4a
13
4b
Follow red markers. | 470m, 13, 10 | Klein Furkahorn | ||
| 4a | ★★ Turm III | 85m, 3, 8 | Pilatus | ||
| 4b | ★ Ostgrat
1
3c
2
4a
3
4b
Normally climbed after completing "Südwände". | 130m, 3 | Solothurner Jura | ||
| 4b | Westgrat
FA: A. Duttweiler & W. Schefer, 1949 | 110m, 3 | Alpstein | ||
| 4b | ★★★ Südgrat
1
3b
45m
2
3a
30m
3
3b
40m
4
4b
35m
5
3a
40m
6
3b
35m
7
3c
30m
8
3b
22m
9
3a
38m
10
4a
40m
11
3b
30m
Approach on steep snow (40°). Ice axe and crampons required. A splendid rock ridge with good granite and bolted belays. Some of harder passages and difficult to protect have bolts. Trad gear needed. Descent: 1 rappel (single 50m ok) from summit then down-climb loose terrain to reach a buttress protruding from face in fall line. From here 2 more rappels down to snowfield. FA: G.Lochmatter & H.Kunze, 1907 | 390m, 11 | Gletschhorn | ||
| {UIAA} 4+ | Voie de Neuch
Slings and cams. FA: Josef Sola, 22 Jun 2021 | Pays du St-Bernard | |||
| 4b | ★★★ Fergenkegel Südwand
1
3b
30m
2
4b
35m
3
4b
50m
4
3b
20m
5
3a
30m
6
3b
20m
7
4a
40m
8
4a
30m
9
3b
40m
Alpine Klettertourroute auf den Fergenkegel 2844 m.ü.M Topo available from SAC Prättigau. FA: Frl. Ross, M. Punz & G. Walty, 1908 Maint: 1997 Maint: 2008 | 300m, 9, 6 | Fergenkegel | ||
| 4b | Rosenriss
| 25m | Basler Jura | ||
| 4b | Axels Traum
1
4b
2
3a
| 2 | Piz Cavardiras | ||
| 4a | Hirvenpolku | Piz Cavardiras | |||
| 4b | Route 66
1
4b
2
4b
| 2 | Piz Cavardiras | ||
| 4a | Si non e Vero
1
3a
2
3a
3
3c
4
4a
5
3c
6
2a
| 140m, 6 | Piz Cavardiras | ||
| 4a | von Norden
Ancient chimney route. Nobody climbs this today. Fans of the Alpstein may be interested to read the original guide book from 1904. FA: r: Güttler, K. Peretti & B. Schuh, 1903 | Alpstein | |||
| 4a | E-Grat | Gross Sättelistock | |||
| Top rope | |||||
| 4b | Barbar Wum
| 10m | Brunni | ||
| 4a | Barbar Rex
| 10m | Brunni | ||
| 4b | ★★ Man in Black
| 10m | Göscheneralptal | ||
| 4b | ★★ Arielle
| 10m | Göscheneralptal | ||
| 4b | Rexona spurt | 18m | Gendusas - Lai Alv | ||
| 4a | Gezza la detta pei | Gendusas - Lai Alv | |||
| 4b | Giebein | Gendusas - Lai Alv | |||
| 4a | Pei plat | Gendusas - Lai Alv | |||
| 4b | alv e ner | 18m | Gendusas - Lai Alv | ||
| 4b | Banbuzi | 23m | Gendusas - Lai Alv | ||
| 4a | ★★ Simba
| 10m | Göscheneralptal | ||
| 4a | ★★ Verschneidung
| 10m | Göscheneralptal | ||
| 4b | ★★ Pfeiler Links
| 8m | Göscheneralptal | ||
| 4b | ★★ Pfeiler Rechts
| 8m | Göscheneralptal | ||
| 4b | Toprope 2 | Birchenzughörli | |||
| 4a | Toprope 4 | Birchenzughörli | |||
| 4a | Eselstall 4 | Birchenzughörli | |||
| 5- | Kamin | 12m | Schaffhausen | ||
| Sport | |||||
| 4a | ★ no beliebter | 10m | Klettergarten Laggin | ||
| 4a | ★ o.N. 8 | 10m | Crew da Plaids | ||
| 4a | Hillary Step
2nd from left. Very short climb - good for kids | 5m | Blindspot | ||
| 4b | ★ o.N. | 15m | Matlusch | ||
| 4a | Xena | Arena Spannort | |||
| 4a | Timide | Berner Jura | |||
| 4b | Micky Maus | 25m | Äbnet | ||
| 4a | Slalom-Gold | 20m, 8 | Bettmerhorn | ||
| 4a | Sugarettli
| Alpstein | |||
| 4 | JO-Wäg | Sarneraatal | |||
| 4b | Le nid
| Pierre du Moelle | |||
| 4b | Gentiane
| Jura Vaudois | |||
| 4b | ★★ Mätt
1
4b
2
4b
| 2 | Ponte Brolla | ||
| 4a - 5a | Route 16 | Glärnischhütte | |||
| 4a | Marie Paule | 10 | Baltschiedertal | ||
| 4b | Kamel
| 20m | Bramois | ||
| 4a | ★★ Löcke | Urnerboden | |||
| 4b | ★★ Egg
1
4b
2
3b
3
4a
4
3c
5
4b
6
4a
| 200m, 6, 10 | Riffelhorn | ||
| 4b | ★ Batman | 12m, 6 | Bernina Gruppe | ||
| 4a | Platte-Verschneidung | 15m | Solothurner Jura | ||
| 4a | Schwalbe | 20m | Mettmenalp | ||