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Routes in Gülcena

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Showing all 17 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
6a Suns Out Guns Out

Suns Out Guns Out is an excellent route that starts with two bolts of slab to reach a ledge. Continue up an arete where you will want to extend or back-clean the fifth clip. Now comes the technical and unique climbing on an attractive pillar capped by a slightly overhang bulge. Easy yet enjoyable climbing on the upper half will bring you to an anchor that is clearly visible from the ground.

On a nice day you will likely understand where this name came from... bang bang

Location Suns Out Guns Out is located on the left side of the sector. You will need to scramble up three meters of rock to a sloped grass ledge. You will find the route where the approach trail converges with the main cliff. It is also seven meters left of a medium-sized pine tree growing out of the same grassy sloped ledge.

Protection 11 bolts, 2 bolt chain anchor with a quick clip.

FA: Nick Weicht, Dani Feil & April 2022

Sport 24m, 11
6a Mauser

Mauser is an enjoyable route that starts with well-protected easy low-angle climbing for the first two clips to reach a ledge. Continue up a flared crack and pull over a small overhanging bulge at the halfway mark. The hardware will lead you past more moderate climbing to reach an anchor that is clearly visible from the ground.

While digging out a nice belay area at the base of the route we discovered a little mouse that also called the crag home. This was also the time a Turkish movie named Mauser was playing in theaters so we ran with the team.

Location Mauser is located for meters left of the large pine tree growing at the belay ledge. Follow a flared crack up most of the route.

Protection 10 bolts, 2 bolt chain anchor with a quick clip.

FA: Nick Weicht, Dani Feil & April 2022

Sport 24m, 11
6a Bambi

Bambi starts up to bolts worth of slab climbing to reach a ledge. Climb up through beautiful wavy rock that is characteristic of Trabzon. Move through balance move beneath the small roof and continue up the arete to an anchor that is clearly visible from the ground.

Bambi is named after a baby deer that was being walked by a local villager along the base of the cliff during the route's development.

Location Bambi is located to meters left of the medium-sized pine tree growing from the ballet ledge.

Protection 10 bolts, 2 bolt chain anchor with quick clip

FA: Nick Weicht, Dani Feil & April 2022

Sport 24m, 11
6a Quarantine Creations

Quarantine Creations start with two bolts on the 45-degree angle slab arete. Continue up a vertical face with good jugs that turn to balanced slab climbing. Follow a crack through a large flared feature in the center of the route before pulling a more technical face climbing over the bulge to an anchor that is hidden from view of the belay area.

Quarantine Creations is named due to the fact that the route was opened up by Dani and Nick Weight while they were in quarantine and unable to leave the country.

Location Quarantine Creations is located on the right side of the belay ramp on the left side of the sector. Look for a large flared crack feature that goes up the lower ramp directly above a large tree.

FA: Nick Weicht, Dani Feil & April 2022

Sport 24m, 11
6a+ Conk Bayırı

Conk Bayırı starts up a short grassy gully before climbing up some ledges and scrambling past a moderate slab while trending left. This section of the route shares the first three bolts with Büyük Taarruz. Pull a small overhanging bulge 9 meters up the route and climb straight a beautiful grey limestone face of slopers and pockets. 2/3 of the way up you will encounter an enjoyable vertical crack through another short steep section before arriving at the anchor located just out of sight from the belay area. Conk Bayırı is located 5 meters beyond the over hanging rock feature next to the approach trail that marks the start of sector Gulcena. Climb directly above a small pine tree that is growling from the ledge 3 meters up the wall.

Set: Volkan Özkan, 2019

Sport 27m, 12
6a+ Büyük Taarruz

Büyük Taarruz starts up a short grassy gully before climbing up some ledges and scrambling past a moderate slab while trending left. This section of the route shares the first three bolts with Conk Bayırı. Pull over a short steep section onto technical face climbing. A right trending, flared crack will lead you through a short sequence in the middle of the route. Perfect face climbing on a wonderfull high friction slopers and pockets will lead you to an anchor located just be on the vision of the belay area.

Büyük Taarruz is located 7 meters beyond the over hanging rock feature next to the approach trail that marks the start of sector Gulcena. Climb 1 meter right of a small pine tree that is growling from a ledge 3 meters up the wall.

Set: Volkan Özkan, 2019

Sport 28m, 15
6a Gönül Çelen

Gönül Çelen starts by scrambling starts by scrambling up low angle rock and past two grassy ledges. Easy crack moves will bring you passed the first two bolts and to a over hanging feature that marks the start of the technical climbing. Enjoy an amazing vertical sequence on a unique inside corner that eventually turns into straightforward face climbing. A nice crack and two small bulges on the upper section will bring you to an anchor located beyond the line of vision from the belay area

Set: Volkan Özkan, 2019

Sport 27m, 11
6b Karaconcolos

KaraConcolos is a spectacular route that starts by scrambling past a grass ledge and up a nice inside corner crack system to get on top of a small diving board rock. Continue on incredible limestone face climbing as you follow a line of bolts straight up a wall of slopers and pockets to the anchor that is visible from the approach trail.

Set: Öztürk Kayıkcı, 2019

Sport 27m, 11
6b İndur

İndur is a spectacular left trending route. Begin on a shared start with Gülcena on the low angle rock before breaking left after the ledge and climbing straight up an incredible face of high friction slopers and pockets. A bulge near the top of the route will reveal an anchor located just out of sight from the belay area.

Set: Öztürk Kayıkçı, 2019

Sport 27m, 12
6b Gülcena

Gülcena is a wonderful route that shares a start with İndur to the inside corner before the small roof. Pull-on excellent holds for a fun sequence up a vertical wall of grey limestone. You will encounter a small roof with a nice crack. Pullover the lip and do a few slabs moves to an anchor just out of sight from the belay area.

Set: Öztürk Kayıkçı, 2019

Sport 27m, 12
6b Sis

Sis is a beautiful route that shares a start with İndur before continuing straight up the gray limestone vertical face to a small roof. Utilize a flared crack halfway up the route to access more amazing face climbing. The anchor is located just out of sight from the belay area.

Set: Öztürk Kayıkçı, 2019

Sport 27m, 12
6b+ 5 Günde

5 Günde starts from a grassy ledge before scrambling up a ramp to a small roof above the second bolt. Pull a technical sequence of vertical limestone face climbing. The high-quality features and movements continue all the way to the top of this glorious route. The anchor is located just out of sight from the belay area.

FA: Öztürk Kayıkçı, Enes Berk Kargı & Cemre Demiröz, 2019

Sport 27m, 13
6a Bolt Savaşları

Bolt Savaşları starts up a twin set of cracks on low angle rock before encounter in a small overhang 4 meters up the route. Continue up wonderful face climbing, staying slightly right of a large pink patch of rock that was dropped during development. Clip the anchor clearly visible from the belay area.

FA: Yahya Koç, 2019

Sport 23m, 9
6b+ Oroperi

Oroperi starts up a nice hand crack on low angle rock to a small roof located 4 meters up the route. Continue on incredible pockrts and slopers with great friction to a small overhang halfway up with climb. Pull a tricky sequence over two separate bulges that will access an anchor that is just out of sight from the belay area.

FA: Yahya Koç, 2019

Sport 27m, 14
6c Positive Pastimes

Positive Pastimes is a wonderful route that has a steep start just right of a to meter tall flared crack. Follow pumpy gray limestone pockets that eventually merge with another flared crack and turn into a inside corner. At the upper section you will break left onto the steep to slightly overhanging face before encountering easy moves to an anchor located at the ledge beyond the bulge.

Positive Pastimes named after the developer tested for covid-19 and was required to stay in Turkey, resulting in the creation of a number of routes at this sector.

Location Positive Pastimes is located 11 meters left of the slightly overhanging car sized boulder next to the approach trail that marks the right side of the sector.

FA: Nick Weicht, Dani Feil & April 2022

Sport 29m, 12
6b+ Buzbağ

Buzbağ is an excellent route that starts on a pocketed gray limestone that is common for the area. The upper half of the route follows interesting crack features to a ledge where you will clip the anchor that is clearly visible from the ground.

Buzbağ was named in honour of a bag of boxed wine that brought joy to the first ascent party.

Location Buzbağ is located 9 meters left of the slightly overhanging car sized boulder next to the approach trail that marks the right side of the sector.

FA: Nick Weicht, Dani Feil & April 2022

Sport 29m, 12
6a+ Blizzard Wizard

Blizzard Wizard starts from the 45 degree angle that makes for and awkward ballet but is well protected with a low first bolt. Start up wavy pockets of Trabzon gray limestone following a series of flared cracks that trend slightly left. Throughout the upper half of the route follow cracks juggy features in the inside corner that continues to trend left to an anchor located above a ledge and clearly visible from the ground.

Blizzard Wizard was named with regards to the development that continue to take place despite of constant snowy conditions.

Location Blizzard Wizard is located 7 meters left of the slightly overhanging car sized boulder next to the approach trail that marks the right side of the sector.

FA: Nick Weicht, Dani Feil & April 2022

Sport 29m, 13

Showing all 17 routes.

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