Ascents in Dorset by Josh Ellis

So close to flashing it! Which probably means it’s a bit on the soft side. Anyway, good fun.

Fun lil warm up, squeezed a cheeky knee bar/scum in on the right.

Was supposed to be a warm up. Turned into a project… 4 goes for a 22, bloody heck this British limestone is hard!

Tried to go straight up the face first go... Not the way!

Easy with the arête!

Too bloody hot for anything harder! Nice jam opportunity!

 

1. Faffed at the crux for too long trying to figure, skipped the last bolt and pulled up to my face at the anchors, but couldn't find my feet and slipped off. So close.

2. Total shambles, there's only like five important moves to rember on this route and I did all of them wrong and somehow got tangled in the rop, what a fuckwit.

3. So glad I didn't fuck it up three times in a row lol.

Lovley lil jug haul with a cool move at the top.

Was still in the sun and felt outragously greasey for the first few metres, the bigger the hold, the greasier it was, nearly punted off at around the third draw while being hilariosly pumped for the grade. Seemed to get better as I got higher. Probably quite nice when not in blazing sun. 🥵

Warm up! Perfect storm of great condys, Luke spraying me down and a dash of bum clenching. Pretty soft compared to other outings at the grade I’ve done but I’ll take it!

Fucking gripped the whole way! Something about Portland just gets me tense man! Was convinced I was gonna blow a hold again!

Wigged out on the slabby corner first go, came down.

Actually topped second time, nice moves at the top but mentally I find that slabby corner middle section really tough.

Probably could have done it putting the draws on tbh.

Think I had it in my head it was really hard from a few months ago. I remember it being twice as long and half the bolts, funny what a few months of climbing can do!

Lovely route.

Spooged off the crux first go, but I think my sequence was wrong anyway so don’t think I would’ve got the onsight.

Got it second go by the skin of my teeth!

"Warm up" after not sport climb in like three weeks! Was just retriving the draws for someone who got stuck halfway up. Really cool route, actually felt quite do-able for me, but was quite spoogey in places. Definetly worth a revisit in better condys.

Amnesia flash! Bit spoogy!

Bit of an engaging start for a “warm up”!

Fun! Some unlikely holds at the top! When that big one breaks off it won’t be 6b+ anymore!

Put it up for the kids.

Cleaned it off those weird wobbly things.

Putting it up for Matty

Head game.

Easy when you commit

Putting the draws up for the kids.

Crux caught me off guard a bit first go! Even down climbed to the ledge to try and preserve the onsight! Boxed myself into a corner and fell eventually. Tried pretty hard though.

Just balancey really, not too physical once you sus it.

Lovely route.

Pumpy

Bouldery start! Cool route.

Got in a pickle near the top and went left when it should have been right. But came good in the end. Dry fired off some sponge at the bottom too. Bit of a miraculous onsight really!

Cruxy

Was supposed to be a warm up but read it horribly, at least Roe punted off too so I didn't feel like such a wally!

Lovely when you use the right holds.

Tippy tappy feet!

Techy as!

Bloody lovely route!

Spicy fun! Committing 3rd bolt when putting the draws in! Apprantly first done as a solo, suprised they could get up with the weight of their massive balls!

Went up to clean the draws off Medusa Falls, followed the bolts v direct, making it bloody nails and punted off!

Choss at the bottom convinced me I was going to blow a hold and I did! Mega whip. Spicy finish.

Lovely route! Struggling to calm down though, defo overgripping, that first climb got in my head I think.