Routes in Gloucestershire

Two pitch traverse. Long slings advisable. Gear needed between 'Spunk Trumpets' and 'Join The Union, Jack'.

Pitch 1: 18m, 8 bolts, F5 - Start at 'Morning Wimpenny' to the break. Traverse left to 'Ninety-Nine Rabid Feminists'

Pitch 2: 12m, 6 bolts, F6a - Traverse under the overhangs to 'Lotus Wing'. Into 'Dry Tree' and exit into the yew tree.

• Branch absail.

Direct start to The Gates, past a peg.

This is the popular first pitch of an old multi-pitch climb. Above the first pitch, much of the rock is vegetated and not described here. Start at a clean area of rock 15m down and right of The Easy Way Down. Climb the easiest line, passing the overhangs on the right, to a block on a large flat ledge. The break in the short wall above gains the ledge of The Easy Way Down and a tree belay.

Tree belay at end of 1st, 3rd and 4th pitches. Peg, nut and stake belay at end of 2nd pitch. The second pitch is the standout. Beware the polish.

Another popular first pitch of a multi-pitch climb. Much of the rock above the first pitch is vegetated and not described here. Start on the far left side of the Black Wall and climb the easiest line past the right end of a ledge with a block on it to meet the ledge of the Easy Way Down and various belay options.

A semi-sport climb that can be done as a single pitch. Begin right of the large open corner at some black stuck-on rock.

1. 5c, 27m. Move up to a horizontal break and then go left and up a crack past a peg and on to reach a ledge and peg. Follow the bolts and pegs above up a groove, over a bulge and past a flake and another groove to a double-bolt belay.

2. 5c, 10m. Move up past a bolt to a crack and another bolt above it. Head leftwards to finish at a ledge just left of the roof. This ledge is on The Easy Way Down.

The Severe finish to the 'Direct Route' on the third pitch. Climb the steep wall behind the belay for 15m.

Marked start in a corner with obvious rockfall. Nice sustained jamming, considered a classic of the grade.

Left hand start to Therapy, up the steep slab past a peg.