Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sat 30th Sep 2006 - Eastby Crag | |||||||
4c VS | ★★★ Pillar Rib | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The classic VS of Eastby. Well protected, weaves its way up the arete.
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Sat 23rd Sep 2006 - Ilkley | |||||||
The Quarry | |||||||
4a HS 4a | ★ Flake Crack | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
Slightly damp, but very positive holds on the side of the flake. Stu seconded.
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Sat 23rd Sep 2006 - Ilkley | |||||||
The Cow | |||||||
4c S 4c | ★★ A Climb | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Still good after 100 years of ascents. Brian led middle pitch.
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Sat 23rd Sep 2006 - Ilkley | |||||||
Rocky Valley Number Three Buttress | |||||||
S | ★★ The Flake Climb | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Had started to dry out by the time we got on it. Stu seconded.
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Sun 17th Sep 2006 - Brimham Rocks | |||||||
Pig Traverse Area | |||||||
4b HS | ★★ Pig Traverse | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Well protected, Diane did not like the crux move around the arete.
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Sun 17th Sep 2006 - Brimham Rocks | |||||||
Fag Slab Area | |||||||
4a S | ★ Fag End | 8m | ★ Good | ||||
Bold with deckout potential.
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Sat 16th Sep 2006 - Almscliff | |||||||
Almscliff High Man | |||||||
4b HS 4b | ★ Central Crack | 11m | ★ Good | ||||
4b HS 4b | ★★ Bird's Nest Crack | 10m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 16th Sep 2006 - Almscliff | |||||||
Almscliff Low Man | |||||||
4b MVS | ★★ Square Chimney & Whisky Crack | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Finally got around to it.
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Sat 16th Sep 2006 - Almscliff | |||||||
Almscliff High Man | |||||||
4b HS 4b | ★★★ Parsons' Chimney | 17m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Second time, just as good. Although a bit damper, making it feel slippier on the green bits. 4 photos.
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Wed 6th Sep 2006 - Almscliff | |||||||
Almscliff High Man | |||||||
4c VS 4c | The Nose | 9m | Average | ||||
Old guidebook says 'Decidedly Difficult' for grade. New guidebook says VS.
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4b HS 4b | ★ The Goblin | 11m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Awkward.
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Tue 22nd Aug 2006 - Twistleton Scars | |||||||
Wall Buttress | |||||||
S | Blackleg Wall (Bareleg Wall) | 11m | |||||
Enjoyed this route very muchly...
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Tue 15th Aug 2006 - Almscliff | |||||||
Almscliff High Man | |||||||
4b HS 4b | ★★★ Parsons' Chimney | 17m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Another Almscliff gem.
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4c VS 4c | ★★ Central Climb | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sustained and steeper than it looks from below.
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Sat 12th Aug 2006 - Rylstone | |||||||
Rylstone Wall Area | |||||||
VD | ★ Balance Crack | 9m | ★ Good | ||||
Hard start.
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4b MVS | ★★★ Rylstone Crack | 12m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Don't wear your lycra on this one, pullover compulsory.
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VD | Up And Over | 10m | Average | ||||
Not bad in first half, easy ramble once at top of first crack.
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Sat 12th Aug 2006 - Rylstone | |||||||
The Main Buttress | |||||||
S | ★★★ Dental Slab | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
As the guide book says "The best Severe on Yorkshire Gritstone". Iona seconded with a couple of winches on the rope at the hard bits.
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Thu 10th Aug 2006 - Ilkley | |||||||
The Quarry | |||||||
4c VS 4c | ★★ Napoleon | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Crux move near top.
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4c VS 4c | ★★★ S Crack | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
How can a climb that looks like this only be VS. Holds appear just when you need them with bomber protection. Best yet at Ilkley for me.
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Sat 5th Aug 2006 - Twistleton Scars | |||||||
Amphitheatre Buttress | |||||||
VD | ★ Yew Corner | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Scrubby start, but cleaner rock after Yew tree.
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Sat 29th Jul 2006 - Brimham Rocks | |||||||
Duggie's Dilemma Area | |||||||
4c MVS 4c | ★ Duggie's Dilemma | 6m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 29th Jul 2006 - Brimham Rocks | |||||||
Hatter's Groove Area | |||||||
5a HVS 5a | ★★★ Hatter's Groove | 12m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
My first Joe Brown classic. Superb climbing up a steep and intimidating V corner to a roof. Arrange the last piece of pro (bomber thread) and tiptoe left for desperate mantle finish.
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Sat 29th Jul 2006 - Brimham Rocks | |||||||
Duggie's Dilemma Area | |||||||
D | ★ Tight Chimney | 6m | ★ Good | ||||
Thu 27th Jul 2006 - Almscliff | |||||||
Almscliff High Man | |||||||
4b S 4b | ★★ South Chimney Layback | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Deserves 2 stars, good well protected climbing. A lot of people struggle to get off the ground though. Not overly polished, check out the Best Forgotten Art video, with a guy soloing it in hobnail boots, well ard! Crux is first vertical crack section.
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Thu 27th Jul 2006 - Almscliff | |||||||
Almscliff Low Man | |||||||
4b S | ★★ Fluted Crack | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Better than Fluted Columns, take big gear.
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4b S 4b | ★ Pinnacle Flake Climb | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Not bad, a bit polished.
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Tue 25th Jul 2006 - Ilkley | |||||||
The Quarry | |||||||
4b HS 4b | ★★ Josephine Direct | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Superb, well protected climbing.
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4b HS 4b | ★★ Josephine | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great climb, despite the drunken yobs at the top of the cliff shouting at climbers and mothers following their kids around the quarry wearing stilletto shoes!
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Thu 20th Jul 2006 - Brimham Rocks | |||||||
Duggie's Dilemma Area | |||||||
4c MVS 4c | ★ Duggie's Dilemma | 6m | ★ Good | ||||
Number 2 RP on right is only good pro at the crux, good No 1.5 cam in higher break near top.
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Thu 20th Jul 2006 - Brimham Rocks | |||||||
Hatter's Groove Area | |||||||
5a VS 5a | ★ Cracked Rib | 8m | ★ Good | ||||
Hard start.
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4b MVS 4b | ★★ Slippery Crack | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Take some big cams.
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Thu 13th Jul 2006 - North York Moors | |||||||
Peak Scar | |||||||
S | ★★★ Jordu | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really good line.
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VD | ★ Downbeat | 22m | Don't Bother | ||||
Some suspect blocks.
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Sun 9th Jul 2006 - Gill Scrambles (with graded pitches) | |||||||
D | ★★ Strans Gill | 100m | ★ Good | ||||
Did on a rainy afternoon, turned out to be very enjoyable. Not 300 metres as Yorkshire Limestone guidebook said, only if you include the walking bits. Very very slippy when wet. Took Diane, Iona and Ewan. Only used pro on last pitch.
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Thu 6th Jul 2006 - Caley Crags | |||||||
The Main Crag | |||||||
4b S 4b | ★★ Pedestal Wall | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Very good at the top, spoilt a little by the chipped holds on the initial slab. Two stars perhaps.
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4c VS | ★★ The Scoop | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Well protected crack climbing lower down, delicate and slightly scary unprotected smearing at the top.
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Thu 29th Jun 2006 - North York Moors | |||||||
Scugdale Scot Crag Rake's Buttress | |||||||
4c VS 4c | ★★ Uncle's | 7m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Roped up for this, as finishing moves felt insecure.
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Thu 22nd Jun 2006 - Almscliff | |||||||
Almscliff High Man | |||||||
4c MVS 4c | ★ South Face Climb | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Slippery start.
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HVD | ★ Long Chimney | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
More polished nonsense, but very easy to protect.
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Thu 25th May 2006 - Brimham Rocks | |||||||
Cubic Block Area | |||||||
S | ★ Shorties Dilemma | 9m | ★ Good | ||||
Thu 25th May 2006 - Brimham Rocks | |||||||
Happy Days Area | |||||||
4a S | ★★ The Belfry | 13m | ★ Good | ||||
I split the pitch by belaying at the thread so I could see the seconds better.
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Thu 25th May 2006 - Brimham Rocks | |||||||
Cubic Block Area | |||||||
HD | Problem Wall | 8m | Don't Bother | ||||
Wed 10th May 2006 - Brimham Rocks | |||||||
Cubic Block Area | |||||||
HVD | ★ Cave Chimney | 11m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Classic gritstone climbing. Takes the flared v chimney, watch out for Jackdaws!
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Sat 6th May 2006 - Ilkley | |||||||
Rocky Valley Number Three Buttress | |||||||
MS | ★ Three Slabs Route | 11m | Average | ||||
Not as protected as the guidebook suggests.
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Sat 6th May 2006 - Ilkley | |||||||
The Quarry | |||||||
4b MVS 4b | ★★ Josephine Superdirect | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Polished to glass, gets VS in some books
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Sat 6th May 2006 - Ilkley | |||||||
Rocky Valley Number Four Buttress | |||||||
S | ★★ Sentry Box | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Did the direct start, seems harder than Severe. Good gear, gently overhanging.
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Thu 4th May 2006 - North York Moors | |||||||
Scugdale Scot Crag The Prow | |||||||
HS | The Heads | 5m | Average | ||||
Thu 4th May 2006 - North York Moors | |||||||
Scugdale Scot Crag Eve | |||||||
4b VS | ★ Jack's Delight | 7m | |||||
Protection spaced, but adequate
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Thu 4th May 2006 - North York Moors | |||||||
Scugdale Scot Crag The Prow | |||||||
S | ★ Main Mast Crack | 5m | ★ Good | ||||
Layaway offwidth
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4b HS | ★★ The Bulkhead | 5m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Overhanging finger crack
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VD | ★ Little by Little | 5m | ★ Good | ||||
Technical for a VD
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Thu 4th May 2006 - North York Moors | |||||||
Scugdale Scot Crag Romulus and Remus Buttress | |||||||
4b HS | ★ Wolf Whistle | 6m | ★ Good | ||||
S | ★ Woodpecker Wall | 7m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 29th Apr 2006 - North York Moors | |||||||
Scugdale Scot Crag Scugdale Buttress | |||||||
4c VS 4c | ★★ Zeta Wall | 8m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
With Tenk and Simon from YMC. Very hard sloping start, but good pro available
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Sat 29th Apr 2006 - North York Moors | |||||||
Scugdale Scot Crag Barker's Buttress | |||||||
D | ★ Cub's Climb | 5m | ★ Good | ||||
Nice easy climb, took Tenk's wife Kelly up it.
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S | Pup's Climb | 6m | Average | ||||
Little bit harder at the top on small pockets.
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Thu 27th Apr 2006 - Brimham Rocks | |||||||
Cubic Block Area | |||||||
4b HS 4b | ★ Square Root | 11m | ★ Good | ||||
Very run out in middle section to number 1 camalot and a reasonable RP
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Sun 23rd Apr 2006 - Twistleton Scars | |||||||
Twistleton Main Crag | |||||||
D | Waxwork | 10m | Average | ||||
Lead in approach shoes, seconded by rest of the family. First hot day of Spring.
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Sun 23rd Apr 2006 - Twistleton Scars | |||||||
Amphitheatre Buttress | |||||||
VD | ★ Cotton Tail | 7m | ★ Good | ||||
Hard start for VD as it is undercut, good foot hold out to right helps a lot. Seconded by family, had to haul the 4 year old up the start.
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Mon 10th Apr 2006 - Ilkley | |||||||
The Quarry | |||||||
6a E1 6a | Peg Wall | 7m | |||||
4c VS 4c | ★★★ S Crack | 15m | |||||
D | Sand Chimney | 14m | |||||
4a HS 4a | ★ Flake Crack | 10m | |||||
5c E1 5c | Flake Crack Direct | 10m | |||||
VD | Nailbite | 15m | |||||
5a HVS 5a | ★ Peg Crack | 7m | |||||
D | ★ Wellington Chimney | 15m | |||||
5a HVS 5a | Overhanging Blocks | 4m | |||||
Tue 4th Apr 2006 - Almscliff | |||||||
Almscliff High Man | |||||||
M | Tight Chimney | 8m | Average | ||||
With Ewan.
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Sun 5th Mar 2006 - North Yorkshire | |||||||
Slipstones Bait Buttress | |||||||
4b HS | ★★ Undercut Flake | 8m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Led this one, thin finish.
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Sun 5th Mar 2006 - North Yorkshire | |||||||
Slipstones Beldin Block East Face (East Alcove) | |||||||
S | ★ Barnley Crack | 6m | ★ Good | ||||
Lead this as it was higher.
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Sun 5th Mar 2006 - North Yorkshire | |||||||
Slipstones Stainthorpe's Buttress | |||||||
VD | Sweet Sixteen | 4m | Don't Bother | ||||
Solo.
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Sat 11th Feb 2006 - North York Moors | |||||||
Scugdale Scot Crag Scot Buttress | |||||||
D | ★ Blaeberry Crack | 5m | ★ Good | ||||
With Diane and kids
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Sat 11th Feb 2006 - North York Moors | |||||||
Scugdale Scot Crag Beginners Slab | |||||||
HD | ★ Gamma | 6m | ★ Good | ||||
Solo
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Sat 11th Feb 2006 - North York Moors | |||||||
Scugdale Scot Crag Curtain Slab | |||||||
VD | ★ Curtain Crack | 5m | ★ Good | ||||
With Diane, Iona and Ewan
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Sat 11th Feb 2006 - North York Moors | |||||||
Scugdale Scot Crag Beginners Slab | |||||||
D | Beta | 6m | Average | ||||
Solo
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Sat 11th Feb 2006 - North York Moors | |||||||
Scugdale Scot Crag Scot Buttress | |||||||
M | ★★ Blaeberry Buttress | 7m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Solo
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Sat 11th Feb 2006 - North York Moors | |||||||
Scugdale Scot Crag Curtain Slab | |||||||
D | Curtain Call | 4m | Average | ||||
Solo
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Sat 11th Feb 2006 - North York Moors | |||||||
Scugdale Scot Crag Scugdale Buttress | |||||||
D | Scugdale Chimney | 8m | Average | ||||
With Diane, Iona and Ewan
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Sat 11th Feb 2006 - North York Moors | |||||||
Scugdale Scot Crag Beginners Slab | |||||||
HD | Alpha | 6m | Average | ||||
Solo
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Sun 22nd Jan 2006 - North York Moors | |||||||
Bridestones The Lower Pinnacles Fourth Pinnacle | |||||||
4c | 32 | 4m | |||||
Solo
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Sun 22nd Jan 2006 - North York Moors | |||||||
Bridestones The Lower Pinnacles Third Pinnacle | |||||||
4c | 21 | 5m | |||||
Solo
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Sun 22nd Jan 2006 - North York Moors | |||||||
Bridestones High Bridestones Buttress One | |||||||
S | Birdshit Groove | 7m | Average | ||||
Better than the name or looks, solo.
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Sun 22nd Jan 2006 - North York Moors | |||||||
Bridestones The Lower Pinnacles Fourth Pinnacle | |||||||
VD | 26 | 5m | |||||
Solo
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Sun 22nd Jan 2006 - North York Moors | |||||||
Bridestones High Bridestones Buttress Three | |||||||
S | Squeeze and Squirm | 7m | Average | ||||
Good old fashioned thrutching,solo.
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Sun 22nd Jan 2006 - North York Moors | |||||||
Bridestones High Bridestones The Isolated Pinnacle | |||||||
MS | ★ Scoop Wall | 8m | ★ Good | ||||
Solo
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Wed 11th Jan 2006 - North York Moors | |||||||
Bridestones The Lower Pinnacles First Pinnacle | |||||||
4a | 3 | 4m | |||||
Solo
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D | 2 | 4m | |||||
Solo
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Sat 29th Oct 2005 - North York Moors | |||||||
Scugdale Scot Crag Holly Tree Buttress | |||||||
4b HS 4b | ★ Humpty Dumpty | 6m | ★ Good | ||||
Nice rockover move.Solo.
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Sat 29th Oct 2005 - North York Moors | |||||||
Scugdale Scot Crag Curtain Slab | |||||||
VD | Curtain Corner (left hand) | 5m | Average | ||||
Sat 29th Oct 2005 - North York Moors | |||||||
Scugdale Scot Crag The Razor | |||||||
VD | ★★★ Razor Rib | 8m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Slippy start
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Sat 29th Oct 2005 - North York Moors | |||||||
Scugdale Scot Crag Drunken Buttress | |||||||
4c VS 4c | ★ Hangover | 7m | ★ Good | ||||
Solo.Short, but nice.
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Sat 29th Oct 2005 - North York Moors | |||||||
Scugdale Scot Crag Pisa Buttress | |||||||
4b HS | ★★ Gravity Wall | 7m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quite steep for the grade
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Sat 29th Oct 2005 - North York Moors | |||||||
Scugdale Scot Crag Barker's Buttress | |||||||
4b HS 4b | ★★ Pet's Corner | 7m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Very nice, good gear in the breaks.
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Sat 29th Oct 2005 - North York Moors | |||||||
Scugdale Scot Crag Drunken Buttress | |||||||
4b HS 4b | ★★ Bottoms Up | 6m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Solo, quite a technical start.
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D | ★ Seamy Side | 6m | Average | ||||
Easy solo
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Sun 9th Oct 2005 - Brimham Rocks | |||||||
Cracked Buttress | |||||||
VD | ★ Cracked Corner | 9m | ★ Good | ||||
With David and family
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Sun 9th Oct 2005 - Brimham Rocks | |||||||
Cubic Block Area | |||||||
HVD | Old Corner | 9m | Average | ||||
With David and family
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