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First Sister

  • Grade context: UK

Routes

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Start 4m left of the snaking crack at a tiny niche at 2m. Move up to place good wires in an incipient crackline, then make fingery moves right to a little black scoop. Swing left to a break, surmount the bulge above, PR and continue to a crack. Take the crack to the top, taking care with the exit move.

A pump out taking the bulging rib overhanging the start of Sister of Mercy. Follow Sister of Mercy to a jug 1m above the first PR. Break out right with difficulty to vertical cracks in the rib. Climb the rib on its right side, exiting slightly right over a bulge.

The rib to the right of South East Wall. Pull straight over the bulge and step immediately left to reach a thin flake crack. Climb the rib to the traverse of South East Wall and finish with difficulty.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Broadbent

Date: 2024

ISBN: 9781913167127

A selective guidebook describes the best sport climbing areas in the southern half of England and Wales, describing 101 crags and over 4,600 routes covering Carmarthen Bay, the Gower Peninsula, Swansea Bay, the Welsh Valleys, Gilwern, the Wye Valley, Avon, north side of Cheddar Gorge, Portland, Lulworth, Swanage, Devon, and Cornwall.

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Wed 7 Jun
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