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Routes as trad in Central Section

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Showing all 80 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
E1 5b Slope Shoulders
Trad 10m
E4 6a Slope Arms
Trad 10m
E6 6c Biltong
Trad
E6 6b Private Parts
Trad 10m
E7 6c Morphine Drip
Trad 10m
E5 6c General Anaesthetic
Trad 10m
E4 6a Local Anaesthetic
Trad 12m
E4 6a Captain Copout
Trad 12m
E5 6b Copulation
Trad 12m
E5 6b Coiton
Trad 12m
E5 6b IVF
Trad
VS 5a Isolation
Trad 12m
HVS 5a The Terrorist
Trad 12m
E4 5c Dysentry

Loose/friable rock.

Trad
E5 6b Distemper
Trad 15m
E4 6a Cold Rage
Trad 15m
E3 5c Cold Rage (Direct Start)
Trad
E5 6b Hot Temper

Direct finish to Cold Rage

Trad 15m
E5 6a Warm Love
Trad 15m
E2 5c Anger and Lust
Trad 20m
E4 6b Anger and Lust - Right Hand Finish
Trad 20m
E6 6b Fear and Loathing
Trad
E4 6a Snow Gates
Trad
E4 5c Lech Gates
Trad 20m
E3 6b Orange
Trad
E4 6a Bottle of Smoke
Trad
E6 6a K nine
Trad
HVS 5a Creak and Squeak
Trad 30m
E3 6a Hownlichenit
1 E3 5b 20m
2 6a 10m
  1. 20m 5b. Start as per Creak and Squeak and then the cracked arete to its right until you can bridge right to a blind groove. Move right and up to a slab ramp until it is possible to reach left to a good hold. Use the good hold to pull onto a slab above (possible belay at the tree.Belay by crack and tree)

  2. 10m 6a. Use the crack and arete to reach a sloping shelf. Finish easily.

Trad 30m, 2
VS 4c Mandrax
1 VS 4c
2 4c
Trad 30m, 2
E5 6a Bug Eyes
1 E5 6a 15m
2 5b 20m

Starts on the arete right of Madrax.

  1. 15m 6a. Climb into the corner and gain a ledge on the left. Move up and right into a slabby groove and belay on the slab above this.

  2. 20m 5b. Join The Splits and follow this route to a steepening. climb this and turning the capping roof on the right.

Trad 35m, 2
E5 5c Split Decision
Trad
HVS 5b The Splits
Trad 35m
HVS 5b Passing Time
Trad 25m
VS 4b Giant Flake Route
Trad 30m
E1 5c Crackhead
Trad 20m
VS 4c Convoy
Trad 25m
E3 6a Pac Man
Trad
E5 6a Stoned Immaculate
Trad
E6 6a Drambo
Trad
E6 6a Drambui

Straightens out the line of Drambo taking a direct start up the wall on edges and sidepulls, making it an idependant line, more sustained at the grade and there's no high side runners.

Trad
E7 7a Bluter Wall
Trad
E4 6c Bluter Crack
Trad
E4 6b Bluter Groove
Trad 25m
E8 6c Bluter Arete

The arete of Bluter Groove, all the way to the very top. No upper crack to be used.

Trad
E7 6b Wife Beater
Trad
E5 6b Demon Drink
Trad
E1 5a Blutered
Trad 20m
E4 6a Doctor Dipso
Trad
E5 6b Doctor Dipso - Direct Finish

From the flat hold continue direct using the fat undercut, a pair of flakes, and a long reach.

Trad
E2 5c Hangover Wall
Trad 8m
E5 6b Sobriety
Trad
E4 5c Rat Arsed
Trad
E3 5c Larup Head
Trad 18m
E3 6a Rehab
Trad
E2 5b Alcoholics Anonymous
Trad 15m
E2 5b Alcoholic Head

The link of the start of Alcoholics Anonymous into Larup Head.

Trad 15m
E4 6b Happy Hour
Trad
E4 6c Double Shot
Trad
E6 6c My Poison
Trad
E6 6b Hair of the dog
Trad
E1 5c Wee Tipple

The right hand line that goes up the vague flake on the left of the arete.

Trad
E3 6a Hard Cornice

This line and the next are 10m right of the previous area, on a buttress with a pine on top. Take the crescent flake to a ledge, moving up to a thin break followed by hard moves through the cornice. Good hold below the top.

Trad
E1 5b Rispan
Trad
S Bad Back Blues
Trad
E2 5b Back Slider
Trad
E1 5c Raspberry Fool
Trad
VS 5a Strawberry Ripple
Trad 8m
E3 5b Plane Slider
Trad
E3 5c Tree Hugger

A short solo to the right of Plane Slider. Protection on the tree downgrades it to E1.

Trad
HS 5a Tapering Crack
Trad
VD Mini Cenotaph
Trad
S 4a The Slash
Trad
HS 4c Finger Crack
Trad
S 4a Flakey Wall
Trad
VD Oak Tree Corner
Trad
E1 5b Oak Rib
Trad
M Chiminee
Trad
E7 6c Copper Keg
Trad
HVS 5b Keg Edge
Trad

Showing all 80 routes.

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