Routes in United Kingdom for selected grade

A supprisingly good route with solid gear and a nice position. The first obviously cleared route on the left hand end of the crag.

Corner to top back diagonally right. Lower off.

Four contrasting pitches split by good belay ledges. The difficulties on the second pitch are 'traditional' meaning probably harder than VDiff! Start at a tree at the base of a vertical corner that is at the beginning of The Easy Way Down.

1. 23m. Climb the corner with a thin crack, and another couple of corners above it, to a huge flat ledge with various tree belays.

2. 4a, 10m. Can be avoided on the right. Walk right to a well defined hand crack. Boulder up the fun wall and overlap just to its left and then the more technical polished groove in the next wall. Belay at a tree and cracks in the short wall above.

3. 18m. The buttress above is climbed via an excellent crack just left of two small trees. Belay on good ledges above.

4. 12m. Climb a thin hand crack up the centre of the final buttress just right of a tree. Belay at the top on flat ledges.

The original route on this buttress. Starts up 'Niche Wall Direct' before finishing up 'Nicheless Climb'.

A loose, grassy wall at the back of the tower. It can be very wet after prolonged rain.

Tree belay at end of 1st, 3rd and 4th pitches. Peg, nut and stake belay at end of 2nd pitch. The second pitch is the standout. Beware the polish.

Dave's first new route.

Climb the cracks.