Popular route. Affected by rock fall so the first pitch description may not be accurate - see https://www.thebmc.co.uk/tremadog-danger! Starts at the base of a steep groove where there is a ledge with a large tree on it to the left.
25m (4c). Climb to a large tree, traverse left and climb up ledges to the bottom of a groove, ascend this to belay off a large flake on a ledge.
30m (4c). Go left, climb up cracks, then up and right to reach a small ledge and spike above a roof. Climb slab with ledges until at the same height of a crack on the right. Climb right into the crack, then up onto slab and rightwards to reach a belay below and left of the flake on the next pitch.
15m. Climb up and traverse the hanging flake, then up and onto an optional belay on a ledge. Climb back left, then up the groove to a belay at the top of the cliff.
11 May 1958 | First ascent: C.Jones & R.Moseley |
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VS 4c, 4c, | Assigned grade |
VS | ★★Matt Tranter |
VS,4c | ★★★Robin Hogger |
Overall quality 72 from 16 ratings.
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Author(s): Mark Reeves & Mark Glaister
Date: 2023
ISBN: 9781873341933
A selective guidebook by Rockfax deswcribing the best rock climbing found in North Wales, covering Llanberis Pass, Cloggy, Ogwen, the Carneddau, Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the Ormes of Llandudno.
Author(s): S. Broadbent
Date: 2022
Volume 1 of this climbing guide contains more than 4700 routes on 89 crags in northern England and Wales / primarily 5 to 7b on the French scale.
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