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Start as for Trotsky. Head up & left after triangular hole @ 15 feet, avoid using right facing flake next to short left facing corner. Using this flake & corner makes the climb considerably easier (it's the crux of Trotsky). Pull over slightly overhanging juggy flakes to a no-hands rest just below the slab crux. Follow shallow corner to crack to large ledge. Build belay in horizontal crack at back of ledge OR place a directional, traverse right along ledge and finish up 6 foot tall wide crack to ledge. Build anchor in vertical crack.

Route history

There is no known route history.

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 44.34764, -68.18910

Grade citation

5.9 Assigned grade
5.8 Rock Climbing New England
5.9- Jeremy Kupferman

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 56 from 3 ratings.

Tick Types

Red point 1
Tick 5

Comment keywords

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Tim Kemple

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9781938393303

From the granite blocks of Lincoln Woods, Rhode Island, to the schist of Smugglers' Notch, Vermont, you're bound to find your next problem in the New England Bouldering guidebook.

  • Comprehensive, revised 3rd edition features more than 1,200 boulder problems at some of the best bouldering areas throughout New England
  • Detailed maps help you find your next bouldering challenge with ease

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 12 May
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