Ascents in California

FA

Power crimp test piece of our generation! Amazing climb with a heady slab. 4 or 5 days of efforts, but a few years of mental preparation. Props to Paul on the FA! Uncut video soon via Kyle Berkompas Bearcam media and Chuck Fryburger productions... Stay tuned for the feature length film!!

FFA.

Like a dream...

2nd Ascent. Amazing find by Jimmy. Such a perfect arete. Very technical and oddly powerful. Bottom crux fit me well, but took some time to settle on a good method for the top. So much to do out here!

Nice to squeeze in a send at the end of the work trip. Such good climbing on this one. Off to Font and Swiss next week!

Soft

https://www.instagram.com/p/CGpuWvtFF22/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CGiHBPpMcVO/

Carlo via Insta: It’s rare to find something that not only challenges you in a way that nothing else has but also happens to be the best piece of rock you’ve ever climbed on. Thanks to Jimmy Webb for tipping me off to this cliff more than 2 years ago and continuing to share your stoke and vision, to Dave Wetmore for being a motivated partner on the initial days of bolting and cleaning, and @marymeck @joshjlowlowy for the working belays and Daniel Woods for the send belay.

#FA

Top quality hard bouldering with razor sharp crimps, wicked holds and hard moves. I've been trying this one obsessively for two months. Definitely worth the project!

2.1 days. Very Fun. For Oma - I will miss you. Photo Here

Yay! First V12! 3rd session sent 10 min in with very sunny temps. 5th ascent? https://youtu.be/yfGyr4u_3v4

Stiff 8A+ for me. First day on it in 2 years. Props to Dave for being the first to take down this stunner. Swarm and BATD next.

Hard

My nemesis! From the original low start. Might be the hardest thing I've ever done. Many days and many years of trying. Very very psyched.

Taking full points for this pain in the ass of a boulder problem. A true nemesis. One of the few times I wish I were a bit taller.

Been avoiding this one for years. Crozzly holds but the movement is really good. Proper sit start.

Couple tries after Scanner. Why not.

Top quality hard bouldering with razor sharp crimps, wicked holds and hard moves. I've been trying this one for quite some time. Definitely worth the project!

Every one of the stars. Damn near perfect! 3 tries.

Really amazing route. Stoked to pull a send together before the temps warmed up too much. Fun side project between work and travels.

Hard

Hazel via Insta: "Well I‘m pleased as punch. ☺️Gushing and long post to follow... (but feels appropriate). Today I climbed Magic Line fourth try of the day, on the last day of the trip with the pressure on and an emotional roller coaster of (more) breaking foot holds, a sore finger, numb feet and wind-blown water from Vernal Falls. But I worked hard for this one. I knew as soon as I tried it very briefly in November 2018 that if I was ever going to climb one very hard (for me) single pitch this would be it. Just because it was so beautiful to look at, so fun to move upwards on and in such a magical place. So I trained properly with the help of David Mason all summer and I committed myself to these 35 metres for the whole valley season. It was stressful getting heartbreakingly close twice but in reality doing it on the last day of the trip meant that this route was the perfect challenge for me, testing me right to the end. To give you an idea of how hard this route was for me - the lower boulder crux is the hardest boulder problem I’ve ever done. Of course it’s nice to bask in send-glory but really the process is where I’ll take the value from and there’s no chance this route hasn’t made me a better climber/person. Thanks to the Kauks for inspiring me especially Lonnie (who I think has done the route 4 times now 🤯) and all the valley friends this year who’ve spectated or participated in this process and supported me along the way especially Madeleine Cope, Angus Kille, Barbara Zangerl (lucky belay), Jacopo Larcher, Sandy Russell, Keenan Takahashi."