Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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5.15c | |||||||||
5.15c | Suprême Jumbo Love | 70m | Clark Mountain | Wed 2nd Nov 2022 | |||||
FA
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5.15b | |||||||||
5.15b | FA Jumbo Love | 80m | Clark Mountain | Thu 11th Sep 2008 | |||||
FFA.
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9b 5.15b | Jumbo Love | 80m | Clark Mountain | Thu 17th May 2018 | |||||
Like a dream...
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5.15b | Kneepad Jumbo Love | 80m | Clark Mountain | Wed 19th Oct 2022 | |||||
5.14a | |||||||||
5.14a | ★★ Dihedron - with Fann, Danny | 18m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Jan 2020 | ||||
Well it turns out this is the most difficult. I don’t really understand. That being said I did a lot more moves than i expected to, but the ones I couldn’t do I couldn’t even conceive. Wild.
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5.14a | Jumbo Pumping Hate | Clark Mountain | Tue 18th Apr 2006 | ||||||
8b+ 5.14a | Jumbo Pumping Hate | Clark Mountain | Tue 5th Apr 2016 | ||||||
#2go Cave climbing at its best.
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5.13d | |||||||||
5.13d | ★★★ Stingray - with Fann, Danny | 27m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 19th Jan 2020 | ||||
Well it turns out this is very hard! Completely amazing steep finger crack climbing. I did all the moves bar two of the three main crux pulls (albeit probably with some rope assist. It’s probably solid 12+ with some very tricky moves to start you off. So stoked to have tried it and seen what all the fuss is about.
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V9 | |||||||||
V9 | ★ Thin Lizzy | Joshua Tree National Park | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||||
V9 | ★★★ Relic | Joshua Tree National Park | Wed 25th Jan 2023 | ||||||
V9 | ★★★ Relic | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 1st Feb 2023 | |||||
Sent on fourth session. Took longer than expected on that session, was starting to feel the need to adjourn due to tiredness. The final go went smooth.
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5.13c | |||||||||
5.13c | ★★★ Chain of Addiction | 15m, 9 | Joshua Tree National Park | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
5.13c | ★★★ Ocean of Doubt | 15m, 6 | Joshua Tree National Park | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
5.13c | ★★★ Hydra | Joshua Tree National Park | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||||
V8 | |||||||||
V8 | ★★★ Diary of a Dope Fiend - with Greg, Eric, Prith | 8m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Wed 8th Jan 2020 | ||||
Had a fair few goes at this. I could do everything in the roof and had excellent linkage there but the final move is truly a show stopper for me. Kind of like V6 into another V6.
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5.13b | |||||||||
5.13b | ★ Rastafarian | 15m, 4 | Joshua Tree National Park | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
5.13b | ★★ The Cutting Edge - with Fann, Ronnie, Greg | 15m, 4 | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Mon 6th Jan 2020 | ||||
Well this is very hard. Managed all the moves up to the crux at the last bolt which is around V9 and very very reachy. Probably 12+ except for that sequence. Pretty rad.
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5.13a | |||||||||
5.13a | ★ The Moonbean Crack | 15m | Joshua Tree National Park | 1987 | |||||
First lead ascent
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5.13a | ★★ Asteroid Crack - with Eric | 10m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Wed 22nd Jan 2020 | ||||
Very psyched to have tried this. I did quite well up to the crux but i couldn’t figure it out as a complete sequence. Rad intricate climbing the whole way though with a sequence that starts at the ground and doesn’t end until you’re standing on top.
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5.13a | ★★ Asteroid Crack | 10m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Dec 2021 | ||||
5th try, 3 session
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5.13a | ★★★ Desert Shield - with Klara R | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Tue 7th Mar 2023 | |||||
One try to check all the moves, which were all doable. However, to put them together is another story, this would probably have been a week-long project. A lot of endurance on small holds necessary. The moves were quite cool. The rock was glued in some places, one hold was even glued back on after having come off at some point.
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B2 | |||||||||
V2 B2 | ★★★ Chili Sauce | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Fri 3rd Oct 1997 | |||||
V2 not B2
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V7 | |||||||||
B1+ V7 | ★★★ Pumping Monzonite | 4m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Fri 15th Feb 2019 | ||||
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V7 | ★★★ Chili Sauce (aka Moffatt Problem) | 4m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sat 16th Feb 2019 | ||||
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V7 | ★★★ Orange Julius | Joshua Tree National Park | Thu 2nd Feb 2023 | ||||||
TRied and tried an couldn't reach. Maybe with a little more dynamic beta or leaning more.
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5.12d | |||||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Father Figure - with Fann, Danny | 15m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th Jan 2020 | ||||
This was so so excellent. It’s just like a campus board. Probably a bit of a sand bag, especially if you’re short. My onsight ended at the crux but i did all the moves and had some really excellent linkage. I’ll be back one day for sure. Also the scene of us nearly getting beaten up due to other’s absurd machismo. Hilarious. (x3)
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5.12d | ★★★ The Acid Crack — 5 attempts | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 22nd Dec 2022 | |||||
5.12d | ★★★ Father Figure | 15m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 13th Feb 2024 | ||||
V6/7 | |||||||||
B2 V6/7 | ★★ Caveman | Joshua Tree National Park | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||||
V6/7 | ★★ Caveman | Joshua Tree National Park | Sun 1st Oct 2023 | ||||||
V6/7 | ★★ Caveman | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Feb 2024 | |||||
V6 | |||||||||
V6 | ★★★ Streetcar Named Desire | 4m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
V6 | ★★★ Streetcar Named Desire | 4m | Joshua Tree National Park | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Streetcar Named Desire | 4m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 10th Jan 2006 | ||||
V6 | ★★★ Streetcar Named Desire | 4m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | 2005 | ||||
V6 | ★★★ Streetcar Named Desire | 4m | Joshua Tree National Park | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
B2- V6 | ★★★ Scatterbrain | 4m | Joshua Tree National Park | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
B1 V6 | West Face Center | Joshua Tree National Park | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||||
V6 | ★★★ Chuckwalla Yabo | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sat 25th Feb 2017 | |||||
A fun series of really unique moves
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V6 | ★★ Lobster Lieback | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Fri 16th Feb 2018 | |||||
V6 | ★★★ All Washed Up | 6m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sat 17th Feb 2018 | ||||
V6 | ★★ Skimbles | Joshua Tree National Park | ★ Good | Tue 20th Feb 2018 | |||||
B2- V6 | ★★★ Scatterbrain | 4m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Tue 5th Feb 2019 | ||||
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V6 | ★★★ Streetcar Named Desire | 4m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th Feb 2019 | ||||
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V6 | ★★★ Scatterbrain - with Fann, Ronnie, Trinity | 4m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sun 29th Dec 2019 | ||||
Very very hard.
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V6 | ★★★ All Washed Up - with Nolan, Zack | 6m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Fri 10th Jan 2020 | ||||
Very sadly punted off the last move. An excellent boulder.
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V6 | ★★★ Streetcar Named Desire - with Nolan, Zack | 4m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Fri 10th Jan 2020 | ||||
Completely nails. People trying this as a run and jump has made the feet at the start so glassy you can barely stand on them. Very unfortunate. Still a classic line up a classic feature though.
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V6 | ★★ Skimbles | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sat 7th Mar 2020 | |||||
V6 | ★★★ The Inquisition | 6m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 31st Dec 2021 | ||||
V6 | ★★★ Scatterbrain | 4m | Joshua Tree National Park | Wed 18th Jan 2023 | |||||
5.12c/d | |||||||||
5.12c 5.12c/d | ★★ Seizure - with Greg, Fann, Ronnie | 28m, 5 | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Mon 6th Jan 2020 | ||||
A colossal sand bag but brilliant rock and an improbable line. I put in a fairly worthy onsight effort but was stumped by some very reachy and very very hard moves a bit above half way. Only the one go.
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5.12c/d | ★★★ Prime Real Estate — 2 attempts - with Klara R | 15m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Thu 9th Mar 2023 | ||||
The first bolt is quite high, and it's also already quite difficult - fortunately, there were some other bolts on the left, which allowed me to try the first part with the first bolt clipped already (this is actually a well-protected sport route apart from the first bolt). Overhanging endurance route on mostly good holds. Climbed it with two rests in the second go, the first of which was unnecessary (took the wrong hold). The fingers still hurt quite a bit from yesterday and we only had 2 hours, so I couldn't do more than 2 tries. Definitely doable within a few more tries.
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5.12c | |||||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Equinox - with Cedar | 20m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 9th Jan 2020 | ||||
This thing is completely all time! One of the absolute best pitches i’ve ever tried. On my second TR lap i managed to go from below the crux to the top, pumped out of my brains. Stellar climbing up a stellar line in a stellar location. (x2)
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5.12c | ★★★ Equinox - with Clay, Tom, Mary, Mason | 20m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 15th Jan 2020 | ||||
Progression and regression. This thing is properly hard! And quite sharp!!! (x2)
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5.12c | ★★★ Equinox - with Tom, Mary, Fann, Ronnie, Kat | 20m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 17th Jan 2020 | ||||
Another two burns and the usual somethings feel much better, somethings feel much worse. Very frustrating. It was nice to watch Tom and Fann both float it though.
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5.12c | ★★★ Equinox - with Fann, Ronnie | 20m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 24th Jan 2020 | ||||
Arghhh! Couldn’t pull it together. Not enough skin, not enough fitness, too much drive to climb other things. I shall return for you!
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5.12c | ★★ Baby Apes - with Prith, Brittany, Greg | 15m, 1 | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Sun 26th Jan 2020 | ||||
This is really fucking cool and really fucking hard. Some heinous crack bouldering after the eponymous baby apes move makes for quite the sandbag i think. Prith added a direct start which was cool.
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5.12c | ★★★ Equinox — 9 attempts | 20m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 22nd Dec 2022 | ||||
5.12b/c | |||||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Bikini Whale - with Britney, Prith, Josh | 25m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Thu 16th Jan 2020 | ||||
Seconding Britney. Marvellous route but it was oh so cold and I couldn’t muster the try hard for the very tricky crux down low. I did everything else with good linkage.
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V5 | |||||||||
V5 | ★★ High Noon | Joshua Tree National Park | Thu 17th May 2007 | ||||||
V5 R | |||||||||
B1+ V5 R | So High | Joshua Tree National Park | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||||
V5 | |||||||||
B1+ V5 | ★★★ JBMFP | 5m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | 2005 | ||||
V5 | ★★ False Blockhead Yabo | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Mon 27th Feb 2017 | |||||
V5 | ★★ Western Roll Yabo | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Sun 26th Feb 2017 | |||||
V5 | ★★★ JBMFP | 5m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Fri 28th Oct 2016 | ||||
two moves from the top!
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V5 | ★★★ JBMFP | 5m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Fri 28th Oct 2016 | ||||
two moves from the top!
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V5 | ★ Chocolate Roof Center | Joshua Tree National Park | ★ Good | Thu 15th Feb 2018 | |||||
B1+ V5 | ★★★ JBMFP | 5m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Feb 2019 | ||||
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V5 | ★★★ JBMFP - with Ronnie, JT, Trinity, Zack | 5m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 28th Dec 2019 | ||||
A fair few goes in the snow, at night, and very drunk.
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V5 | ★★★ JBMFP - with Trinity, Fann, Ronnie | 5m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 29th Dec 2019 | ||||
To me, this is the perfect boulder problem. The top out was covered in snow, so after putting my heel up and rocking over, I didn’t quite complete the top out and jumped down. I’ll go back and do it properly at some point but i feel fairly comfortable claiming the send.
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V5 | Black Streak Dyno | Joshua Tree National Park | Tue 17th Mar 2020 | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ JBMFP | 5m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 1st Jan 2020 | ||||
V5 | ★★ False Blockhead Yabo - with Maxine bardavid | Joshua Tree National Park | Sun 22nd Jan 2023 | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ JBMFP - with Maxine bardavid | 5m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 29th Jan 2023 | ||||
Second go of the day.
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V5 Easy | ★★★ Mystical Vibrations | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 1st Feb 2023 | |||||
5.12b | |||||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Satanic Mechanic - with Trinity, Danny, Zack, Fann, Ronnie, JT | 15m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sat 28th Dec 2019 | ||||
Three shots. Brilliant, powerful crimping.
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5.12b | ★★★ Satanic Mechanic - with Trinity, Fann, Ronnie | 15m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sun 29th Dec 2019 | ||||
Peer pressured into tying in and the slightly warmer weather saw me clipping the anchors quite comfortably. A great route!
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5.12b | Vanishing Point - with Klara R | Joshua Tree National Park | Average | Thu 2nd Mar 2023 | |||||
Potentially good, but the top layer of the rock is crumbling off in many places, so I decided not to try again. Quite well protected by bolts apart from the lower part where I was also not so sure about my placements because the rock didn't seem particularly solid.
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5.12b | ★★★ Satanic Mechanic — 2 attempts - with Klara R | 15m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Tue 7th Mar 2023 | ||||
Too hard for warming up and while putting the quickdraws, but on my next attempt, I climbed in the sun and it was much warmer than two days ago, making the route much easier for me.
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5.12b | ★★★ Satanic Mechanic — 4 attempts - with Klara R | 15m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sun 5th Mar 2023 | ||||
Excellent overhanging sport route. Good holds in the lower part and up a crack, then the most difficult part: a face climb on small holds, which are also a little sharp. It got quite windy on my second try and I was just too cold to climb the route. Third and fourth try were still cold but at least not windy. Fell at the absolute last hard move because my right hand slipped off the hold.
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5.12b | ★★★ Satanic Mechanic - with Fabian Michel | 15m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Mar 2023 | ||||
Very nice route. Tried in lead once, but finding out the beta after the third bolt was too hard in lead for me, because I fell every time in the crack below the small belly. Two tries after that in toprope.
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5.12b | ★★★ Satanic Mechanic — 2 attempts - with Fabian Michel | 15m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Mar 2023 | ||||
Did two tries in toprope for checking out the beta after not getting to the top in lead. Very nice route. Beta for reference (in German) :
Über der dritten Exe an guten Griff rechts doppeln, links hochstehen auf linken schwarzen tritt, rechts höher stehen und links an guten Griff ziehen (schmale Kante). Weiter oben an Riss links rausstehen auf reibung, an Riss höher arbeitenz Dann rechts auf guten Griff stehen. Rechts hochgreifen in sehr kleinen teil Des rises, links höher stehen auf reibung und rechts in guten Griff , der ist auch ein untergriff. Links dazu und Dann mit rechts hochstehen auf fläche großen tritt. Rechts weiter an kleineren Griff Dann links hand in untergriff klemmen, links und rechts hochstehen, links ist der tritt weiß und leicht rausgebrochen, rechts schwarz und Klein. Rechts kreuzen an Henkel. Dann linken fuß in den Riss Stellen, rechts leicht auf reibung toe hooken und links an guten Henkel. Links weit hochstehen auf kleinen weißen tritt Dann mit rechts weit hochgreifen an schlechte Leiste. Rechten fuß auf kleine abgebrochene weiße Leiste. Von unten sieht man dass der tritt zwischen zwei schwarzen teilen der wand ist. Linker fuß auf seitlichen schwarzen tritt. Linke hand in Seitgriff. Rechter fuß etwas neben den linken, linker fuß hoch auf linken guten Griff von vorher. rechts hochgreifen an guten clip Griff. Dann überkreuz an den Griff kurz drüber ziehen, rechte hand dazu. Links auf den rechten richtig guten tritt, rechts etwas höher auf kleinen schwarzen tritt, leicht eingedreht. Dann rechts hoch an leiste. Links etwas hochstehen und mit links kurz Zwischengreifen an kleine schlechte leiste, Dann verlängern an gute. |
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5.12a | |||||||||
5.12a | ★★ Rap Bolters Are Weak | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Fri 16th Dec 2005 | |||||
TR first go, with some better sequences for effiency it could go on lead.
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5.12a | ★ Castles Burning | Joshua Tree National Park | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Moe Town | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Tue 10th Jan 2006 | |||||
5.12a | ★★ Moe Town | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | 2005 | |||||
5.12a | ★★ Slightly Ahead of Our Time | 25m, 6 | Joshua Tree National Park | Fri 1st Jan 2016 | |||||
I misread the guidebook and started trying to free this.. nope. Then realized it'd make a good practice bolt ladder. Needs one rivet hanger, I think the third piece from the top.
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5.12a | ★★★ Leave It To Beaver | 24m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Tue 16th Feb 2016 | ||||
5.12a | ★★★ Leave It To Beaver | 24m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Fri 22nd Mar 2019 | ||||
5.12a | ★★ Sow Sickle | 30m, 5 | Joshua Tree National Park | Mon 27th Jan 2020 | |||||
If this is the climb I think it is then it is 12a not 11d.
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5.12a | ★★ Sow Sickle - with Fann, Ronnie | 30m, 5 | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sat 25th Jan 2020 | ||||
Probably the hardest 12a I have ever tried, it definitely the hardest move I have ever done on a 12a. I rapped over it to equip it and then tried to flash it but came up short on the crux. Figured out the move on top rope afterwards.I think it might be easier if you’re tall but at least 5.14 Fann validated my struggle.
Afterwards I got to go back to camp and hear that Prith had sent Stingray which is one of the coolest things ever. So psyched!! |
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5.12a | ★★ Apartheid - with Prith, Greg, Brittany | 15m, 4 | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Sun 26th Jan 2020 | ||||
Another catastrophic 12a sandbag, and with a very dangerous runout through the crux. Super funky moves though which require some good technique as much as some pull down. Worthy of being resurrected with a rebolt.
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5.12a | ★★ Sow Sickle - with Mary Grace Stocker, Greg | 30m, 5 | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Mon 27th Jan 2020 | ||||
Went straight up it for the warm up which was encouraging. Cold cold cold conditions help.
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5.12a | ★★ Sow Sickle - with Mary Grace Stocker, Greg | 30m, 5 | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Mon 27th Jan 2020 | ||||
Woohoo! Very psyched to get this done. A very very fun piece of rock climbing with an incredibly committing crux a decent way above your last bolt. This is followed by some very tenuous moves up a dihedral past a tiny cam (that i placed on lead) to some easier stuff all the way to the anchors. Really worthwhile!
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5.12a | ★★★ Leave It To Beaver - with Mary Grace Stocker | 24m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Thu 30th Jan 2020 | ||||
Why oh why did i leave it till my last day. So much fun. My onsight ended fairly quickly and then i did it with two hangs on TR. A truly brilliant rock climb and one I will no doubt come back for. Bring on Cold Trip 2020!! (x3)
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5.12a | ★★ Blood of Christ — 2 attempts - with Klara R | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Fri 3rd Mar 2023 | |||||
Protection by bolts is okay, but there is a scary (at least for me in the onsight) mantle about one and a half meters above the last quickdraw. The holds are quite sharp. One try to put in the quickdraws where I didn't really try the moves (confidence a bit low after the last route), and one try on toprope where I actually did every move on the first try, so it's definitely doable. Might come back later
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5.12a | ★★ Blood of Christ - with Fabian Michel | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Fri 3rd Mar 2023 | |||||
Very sharp holds. I was bleeding of my finger tip from the route before. So I stopped. Also the moves felt a little too hard for me.
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5.12a | ★★ Rap Bolters Are Weak — 2 attempts - with Klara R | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Wed 8th Mar 2023 | |||||
A bit scary to get to the first bolt (this is actually a sport route), before which I could only place a small cam relatively low. The crux is to get from the first to the second bolt on small and very sharp edges. In the end, I went to the good sidepull with the left and matched it with the right, holding the tension to avoid turning out of the wall. On the first try, leading the route, I skipped some moves and focused on getting up somehow. In the second toprope attempt, I had to rest in three places: twice because my fingers hurt so much from the sharp edges and once to figure out the last part of the crux.
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5.12a | ★★ Tic Tic Boom - with Klara R | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Wed 8th Mar 2023 | |||||
Bolts are a bit rusty, but they held all my falls, some from more than a meter above the quickdraws. The crux is a single, far move to get to a hold next to the third bolt (at least the way I climbed the route). Nice climbing in the last third of the route on jugs in a vertical face.
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5.12a | ★★ Tic Tic Boom - with Klara R | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Thu 9th Mar 2023 | |||||
Fingers still hurt and my beta probably isn't optimal, one move is definitely far and doesn't succeed every time.
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