Approach: From Dade Lake hike across benches and then snow up to just right of the lowest point of the buttress (37.37028, -118.76723). (5 miles, 2,500 ft from Little Lakes Trailhead to route start)
Descent: Descend down Class 4 rocks on the East side to sand, follow left of the north ridge then cut over it eastwards at the notch. There are two optional rappels down the snow/scree that bring you 2/3 down the slope. Follow steps back to Dade Lake.
(Due to lots of talus, there are little good bivys above Gem Lakes until you reach Northside of Dade Lake.)
The North Arête takes the most compelling line on Bear Creek Spire. The climb is typical for a Sierra route: lots of cracks, broken rock, and mostly face climbing and stemming with a few mandatory hand jams. Both cruxes involve steep stemming on awkward large flakes. The climb is easily divided in two halves. The first half climbs a striking arête/pillar with steep 5.7 and 5.8 sections separated by fourth class. The second half ascends an exposed 4th class ridge. Because only the first half is visible from the base, many climbers underestimate the length of the climb.
There is no known route history.
5.8 III | Assigned grade |
5.8 | ★★ High Sierra Select Climbs |
III 5.8 | Climbing California's High Sierra, 2nd Edition - The Classic Climbs on Rock and Ice |
Overall quality 80 from 9 ratings.
Author(s): Chris McNamara and McKenzie Long
Date: 2013
ISBN: 9780983322535
Author(s): Kimbrough Moore, Shannon Joslin, Leo Popovic
Date: 2022
ISBN: 9798218007959
Author(s): Toby Evans
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9781493045464
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