Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Owl Cove Cling/Clang Wall | |||||
5.11a | ★ Dry Hump
Left most route with a hard pull at the roof | 4 | |||
5.8 | ★ Pink Slip
Start on rounded holds, climb to a shallow dihedral with a sport anchor | 3 | |||
5.9 | ★ Bolter's Ed
Take blocky holds up a steep wall to a finish in a deep dihedral | 4 | |||
5.11a/b | ★★ Cling
Short, sweet, steep! | 5 | |||
5.11c | ★ Clang
2 bolts through steep terrain and finish on the last 2 bolts of 'Cling' | 4 | |||
5.11c/d | ★ Spring Spawner
Another short, steep one | 5 | |||
5.10d | ★ Jabberwocky
Curving dark face | 4 | |||
5.12a/b | ★★ Wild Thang
Wild layback!! | 6 | |||
5.11a/b | ★ The Wild Side
Starts in corner, move left onto arete/face, fun headwall finish | 9 | |||
5.11d/12a | ★ The Vile Side
4-bolt variation to the start of 'The Wild Side' | ||||
5.10d/11a | ★ The Mild Side
Short-but-fun face, no anchor so finish on 'The Wild Side' headwall | 3 | |||
Owl Cove Owl Wall | |||||
5.10a | ★ Bitch Slap
Slabby arete | 5 | |||
5.8 | ★ 5.8ish
| 6 | |||
5.10d | ★ Get Laid
Tricky layback top crux | 8 | |||
5.9/10a | ★ Heavy Petting
Starts beneath small roof | 6 | |||
5.11d | ★★ Dv8
On blunt corner to face, thin crux! | ||||
5.11a | ★★★ Space Violator
Up center of face, save some juice for the top! | 18m | |||
5.11b | ★★ Black Mamba
Same start as 'Space Violator', then right and up, tricky laybacks | ||||
5.10c | ★ Face Shot
Short bolted face | ||||
5.10b | ★ Space Shot
Tricky bolted blunt arete/face | ||||
5.10b | ★★ jeff-boy-r.d.
Corner to face | 6 | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Holey Trojans
Left side of steep slab, thin moves! | 4 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Hot Date
Right side of slab, same anchors as 'Holey Trojans' | 4 | |||
5.9/10a | ★★ Date Bait
In corner | 3 | |||
5.10b | ★ Wet Dreams
Blunt prow | 4 | |||
5.12d | ★★★ Tow Job
Steep slab with dime-thin edges | 3 | |||
5.11b/c | ★★ The Slob
Groovy moves | 3 | |||
Owl Cove Asylum Wall | |||||
5.10a | ★ Adhd
Clip first bolt of 'Sociopath' then move left, good finish on excellent rock, upper ledge start | 8 | |||
5.10b | ★ Sociopath
If you climb on the left side of the bolt line, 5.10c on the right, upper ledge start | ||||
5.10c | ★★★ Psychopath
Upper ledge start, fun, techy start to a steep finish | ||||
5.10d | ★ Coma Toes
(if you stay on the arete!), a giggle of a climb | 5 | |||
5.10a | ★ Waiter, There's a Fly in My Supe
| 7 | |||
5.11d | ★★ Welcome to the Funny Farm
Good face moves | 7 | |||
5.10b/c | ★★ Chalk Therapy
| 7 | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Straight Jacket
Up black bulge/face, kinky!! | ||||
5.13b/c | ★★ Commited
Direct start to straight jacket, 2 additional bolts on the direct start | ||||
5.10c | ★ Brain Dead but Good in Bed
Up overhanging flare, weird moves! | ||||
5.11b | ★★ Acrophobia
Starts up crack/slot | 6 | |||
5.11c/d | ★ Psycho Billy
Up left side of huge block | ||||
5.11a/b | ★ Sweethearts of the Rodeo
Up right side of block, same finish as 'Psycho Billy' | ||||
5.12a | ★★★ Pervert's Pleasures
(if you don't wimp out and use the block to the left!!), sustained, up two parallel seams to dihedral finish | 6 | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Cat-A-Tonic
Up thin face | 6 | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Pavlov's Dogs
White face just left of obvious roof, great!! | 8 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Oedipus Complex
Through big roof, using right side only is harder | ||||
5.12d | ★★★ Maniac
Up white face, Massacre's best hard climb! | 6 | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Amnesia
Through crux flare | 7 | |||
5.11c | Its Time for Your Medication
Kind of contrived | ||||
5.11c/d | ★★ Pathological Flyer
Excellent and varied moves, crux at top if you avoid off-route crack to the left | 10 | |||
5.11d/12a | ★★★ Zigman Void
Up z-seam face | 4 | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Freudian Slip
Great concave crack/face, crux is after last bolt! | ||||
5.10d | ★ Off Your Rocker
Several crux sections | 9 | |||
Owl Cove Lower Tier of Asylum Wall | |||||
5.11d | ★★ Still Crazy After All These Years
Blunt arete, sharp edges | 4 | |||
5.12b/c | ★ Seizure
Using arete only, 5.11c if you use the right crack | 4 | |||
5.10a | ★ Nut Case
Retrobolted aka 'Slippin' Post', long route | ||||
5.11d/12a | ★★ Serial Driller
Long, several cruxes | 15 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Crack Baby
Long retro bolted line | 14 | |||
5.9/10a | ★★ Nurse Ratchet
Up weird, eroded plates | 4 | |||
5.11c/d | ★ Doctor Feelgood
Continuation of 'Nurse Ratchet' | 11 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Sketch-O-Frantic
Bolt line up right side of face, kind of loose rock at start, gets better, kinky moves! steep finish | ||||
5.10c | ★ Daddy Needs His Medicine
Retro bolted long line | 16 | |||
5.11d | ★ No Mo Natural Pro
Crack with bolts, might want to stick-clip first bolt | ||||
5.12b | ★★★ Split Personality
Starts on short pillar, then right, great climb, stemming start to crack, crux face finish | ||||
5.11c | ★★ Airhead
Up hand-jam crack to great, steep finish | ||||
5.11c/d | ★★ Pain Thriller
Starts in thin, tough finger crack, then up and left for steep face finish | 8 | |||
5.10d | ★ Loco
| 6 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Everybody and Their Dog
Up wild, detached pillar | ||||
5.10c/d | ★ Lunatic
Start on first 2 bolts of 'Delirium Tremens', then left for 4 bolts, finishes on same anchors as 'Delirium Tremens', some of Massacre's best stemming | 6 | |||
5.11a | ★ Delirium Tremens
Face right of pillar | 5 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Wild Virus
Good moves | 6 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Special Olympics
Up crack to blunt, brown arete, crux is thin finish | 7 | |||
Owl Cove Rubble Wall | |||||
5.9 | ★ Barn Stormer
Left most route, start in a nice corner past 2 bolts to a ledge. Continue up a dihedral to a broken face on fine brown rock, stem a wide corner to the anchors | 7 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Lone Ranger
Bolt line up a pillar formation left of a large bush, climb into the left dihedral between the 3rd and 4th bolts, then hand traverse right at the 6th bolt to the right side dihedral and follow the corner/bolts to the anchor. Original route is 5.11b by avoiding both corners and cracks (with difficulty) and staying on the pillar only. Excellent climb if you follow the holds | 12 | |||
5.9 | ★ Red Shank
Follow the line of bolts just right of the large bush about 1/3 the way up the cliff. This is the easiest approach pitch to Jail House Wall. Pull onto the large ledge and walk/scramble to the base of the routes on Jail House Wall | 7 | |||
5.10a | ★ Puppy Chow
Right of Red Shank climb past 1 bolt to the ledge, climb up the face of the column to a corner system, finish at the anchors in a large roof | 7 | |||
5.11c/d | ★★ Double-Dog-Dare
Clip the first 3 bolts on 'Puppy Chow', then move right and up over the hard bulge, 4 more bolts | 7 | |||
5.10b | ★ Watchtower
Starts on gritty section to broken face, and finishes on prow | 12 | |||
5.11a | ★ Cryday the 13th
Short approach pitch then belay at anchors. The rock quality and climb improves after first few bolts | 8 | |||
5.11c/d | ★★ The Whinery
Clip the first 3 bolts on 'Cryday', then move right, up hard finger crack and over bulges | 9 | |||
Main Wall Left Wing Wall | |||||
5.10b | ★ Arch Enemy
Starts above the small natural stone arch. Formerly called Grim R.P.er rated 5.9+ with a fixed pin. A bolt has since been added | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Sundance
Bolted arete | ||||
5.11a | ★ Moonstruck
Over spooky, blocky roof, fun upper face | ||||
5.11a | ★ Three Dogs for a Dollar
Bolted slab, starts on upper ledge | ||||
Main Wall Dog Wall | |||||
5.11c/d | ★ Lethal Rejection
Bolted bulge to steep headwall, upper ledge start | ||||
5.11a/b | ★ The Dog Pound
Bolt line through ship's prow arete | ||||
5.11b | ★ The Mongrel
Good bolt line, several cruxes | ||||
5.11c/d | ★★ Birddog
Starts on first 3 bolts of 'The Mongrel', then straight up, over kinky bulge to steep, fun face | ||||
5.11b | ★ Dog at Large
Another good bolt line | ||||
Main Wall Air Thee Wall | |||||
5.11a | ★ Slip Slide'n Away
Up steep slab (crux), then fun, but somewhat run-out climbing up arete, left of large, right-facing corner system, sport anchors | 27m, 11 | |||
5.11b/c | ★ Grease Monkey
Bolted slab | 18m | |||
5.11b | ★ Be Scared and Hold on Tight
Wild slab, through roof, to overhanging crack | 30m, 11 | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Off-Ramp
Start on short block, cruxy at second-to-third bolt, finish on steep arete | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Overpass
Good line up book/crack, thru roof (retro bolted) | ||||
5.11a/b | ★ Cruise'n the Strip
Cracks left and right are off route, or its easier | 5 | |||
5.10a | ★ Freeway
One-bolt start, wanders, finish in steep open book with log at top | 37m | |||
5.11a | ★ Streets of Fire
Arete finish | ||||
5.10c | ★ Sherlock Moans
First half rather loose and blocky, excellent arete finish | 30m, 15 | |||
Main Wall All Star Wall | |||||
5.12a/b | ★★ Get Primate or Fly Mate
Up thin, flared crack, then face finish | 21m | |||
5.10b | ★ Castles Made of Sand
Climb first 3 bolts of 'Dirty Dancing' then veer left for 6 more bolts up right facing corner. Steep with big holds, a good warm-up | 9 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Dirty Dancing
Up and a bit right through overhanging plates and cracks | 27m, 11 | |||
5.11c/d | ★★★ Debra Winger
Classic face and laybacks, bolts | 23m |