Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.12d | ★★★ Straight Outta Compton
Back left corner of the cave. FA: Dan McQuade, 1992 | 7 | Mount Charleston | ||
5.12d | ★★★ The Gift | Red Rock | |||
5.13a | ★★★ Warlord | 20m | Mount Charleston | ||
V7 | ★★★ Bubble Butt
Sit start with both hands on a right-angling rail. Move up to a rad sloper to the arete. Gain the good edges at the lip and mantle to the final slab- be careful here! | Red Rock | |||
5.12d | ★★★ Pet Shop Boy | Red Rock | |||
5.12d | ★★ Wonderstuff
| 9m | Red Rock | ||
5.13a | ★★ Dark Passenger | Warzone | |||
5.13a | ★★★ Borderline
The paragon of Hood slab climbing: extremely fun, technical, and powerful. | Mount Charleston | |||
V6 - 8 | ★★★ The Angel Dyno
| Red Rock | |||
5.12d | ★★★ Where the Down Boys Go | 18m | Red Rock | ||
5.13a | ★★ Nothing Shocking | Red Rock | |||
5.13a | ★★ Energizer
Start at back right of cave. Boulder problem leads to long calf-burning leftward traverse to finish on Straight Outta Compton. | Mount Charleston | |||
5.12d | ★★ The Burglar | Mount Charleston | |||
V7 | ★★★ Monkey Wrench
| Red Rock | |||
5.13a | ★★★ Corrosion | Mount Charleston | |||
5.12d | ★★ Deluge | Mount Charleston | |||
5.12d | ★★★ The Fiend
| 14m | Red Rock | ||
5.12d | ★★★ One Man's Kokopelli Is Another Man's Side Show Bob
| 14m | Red Rock | ||
V7 | ★★ My Tan
| Red Rock | |||
5.12d | ★★★ Bloodbath
start to right of Guntower. traverse into Cop killer. alternate finish on HUTH (slightly easier). | Mount Charleston | |||
V7 | ★★ The High Road
| Red Rock | |||
5.13a | ★★★ Shark Walk | Red Rock | |||
V7 | ★★★ Mr. Moran
A showcase problem of the area. Sit start with both hands on the flake below the lip. Traverse right to a difficult mantle. The name is a reference to Ryan Moran who first took interest in the problem. | Red Rock | |||
5.12d | ★★ The Natural | Mount Potosi | |||
V7 | ★★ Kraft Dinner Right
| Red Rock | |||
5.12d | ★★ The Bird | Warzone | |||
5.13a | ★★ Twilight of a Champion | Red Rock | |||
5.12d | ★★★ Indian Giver | Red Rock | |||
5.13a | ★★ Ambushed | Red Rock | |||
V7 | ★★★ The Mole
crimp line on the far right | Red Rock | |||
5.13a | Freak Brothers
| Red Rock | |||
5.12d | ★★★ Endless Needs and Bloody Deeds | Mount Charleston | |||
5.13a | ★★★ Highway Robbery | Mount Charleston | |||
5.12d | ★★★ Sand Boxing | 18m | Red Rock | ||
5.12d | ★★★ Gorillas in the Mist
Traverse right before very large move to mantle a bulge. Pleasing movement. | Mount Charleston | |||
5.13a | ★★★ Hanks Route | 20m | Red Rock | ||
5.13a | Rising Sun | Mount Potosi | |||
5.13a | ★★ Equalizer | Mount Charleston | |||
5.13- | ★★★ Desert Gold
Begin by climbing an approach pitch (5.9 PG13) on the left wall below the massive roof. This is actually quite enjoyable. Traverse right on a thin foot ledge towards loose blocks, or continue up a massive hollow flake and then move right. This leads to a bolted belay at a sloping stance. 35 meters. Clip a bolt off the belay with a long runner and step left around the arete into a junky corner. Up this a few moves and then back onto the arete. Stretch right to the crack, place pro, and commit to the short but surprisingly steep finger crack. There is basically one move of each size - tips through hands - on the way to the roof, so no matter your hand size, there's a crux for you! Under the roof, cop a pumpy rest and avoid clipping the lowering bolt; instead launch outwards. #2 Camalots quickly widen to #3 Camalots at the lip where a jug awaits for pulling over to the top. For many this "11d" section proves to be the crux. Backjump and lower from the bolt under the roof to clean. FA: Paul Van Betten & Richard Harrison, 1984 FFA: Stefan Glowacz, 1987 | 1 | Red Rock | ||
5.13a | ★★ Midnight Cowboy | Red Rock | |||
V7 | ★★ Coyote Bait | Red Rock | |||
5.13a | ★★★ Apocalypse Now | Warzone | |||
5.13a | Ray of Light | 12m | Mount Potosi | ||
V7 | ★★★ Fear of a Black Hat
| Red Rock | |||
5.12d | ★★★ Watts Left | Mount Charleston | |||
5.12d | ★★★ Brown Sugar
The classic steep line out the right part of the cave. Rock looks a little dusty and lackluster, but the movement and the holds are incredible. | 10 | Arrow Canyon | ||
5.12d | ★★★ Pablo Diablo | 12m | Red Rock | ||
5.12d | ★★★ The Cupcake | 9m | Red Rock | ||
V7 | Dirty Rail
very sandy | Red Rock | |||
V6/7 | ★★★ AC | Red Rock | |||
V7/8 | ★★ Modus Operandi
same start as Buffalo Ball Traverse, but go up and right. Dynoing could be a solution. | 2m | Red Rock | ||
V7 | ★★★ Coors Light
Start low on right side. Top out. various starts possible, all about the same difficulty. It's a two-mover. | Red Rock | |||
5.13a | ★★★ Countdown to Ecstasy | Mount Potosi | |||
V6/7 | Sergeant Hightower
Sit / crouch start with heel hook or toe hook and hands on small opposing crimps under micro roof. Mantle the tiny boulder. | Red Rock | |||
5.12d | ★★ Joe Dirt | Mount Charleston | |||
V7 | ★★★ Old Times
| Red Rock | |||
V7 | ★★★ Bachar Problem | Red Rock | |||
5.12+ | ★ Desert Crack
Steep fingers to tight hands. If you're here you're probably more interested in the roof. A black totem/0.2 BD is very helpful for the start. FA: Paul Van Betten & Sal Mamusia, 1987 | 2, 1 | Red Rock | ||
5.12d | ★★ Concave
| Lake Tahoe, Nevada Side | |||
5.12d | ★★★ Hieroglyphic Prophesy
1
5.5
2
5.12d
| 21m | Red Rock | ||
5.12d | Sika 13 | Red Rock | |||
5.13a/b | Generations
Right of Crimson Crimp, left of Samadhi. Sandy jugs lead to scoop, kneepad helpful. Then long move / jump right to snag a brick jug, mantle, and top out. Originally given 13a/b, but grade has yet to settle. | Red Rock | |||
5.13a | The Burning Bush | 15m | Red Rock | ||
V7 | Broke Bachar | Red Rock | |||
5.12d | ★★ Stolen
Climb up to beehive. Don't get swarmed! | Warzone | |||
5.13a | SOS | 10m | Red Rock | ||
5.12d | Rainbow Warrior | 17m | Rainbow Canyon | ||
V7 | Let a Bro be a Bro | Red Rock | |||
5.12+ | ★★★ Rainbow Country | Red Rock | |||
5.12d | Man Overboard! | 10m | Red Rock | ||
5.12d | ★★★ Malt Liquor Man extension
Continue from Malt Liquor Man p1 anchors to an intriguing and exciting finish. | 11 | Mount Charleston | ||
5.12d | Testa Dura | 17m | Rainbow Canyon | ||
V7 | Up in Smoke | Red Rock | |||
V7 | ★★ Center - V7
Starts as Potato Chips, moving left and up straight after but avoiding any other holds of former problem. | Red Rock | |||
5.12d | Hubba Bubba | Mount Charleston | |||
5.13a | Fistful of Dreadlocks | Red Rock | |||
5.13a | ★★★ Master Beta | Red Rock | |||
5.12d | Burning Man | 18m | Rainbow Canyon | ||
V7 | ★★★ Carapace
Mega slopey. Mega sandy. Mega classic. Mega choss | Red Rock | |||
V7/8 | ★★ Get Burnt
Sit start in middle of low rail. move right to jug edge and then a large move straight up to the slopey rail and direct top out. | Red Rock | |||
V7/8 | ★★★ Wobble Left
Rectangular hole start to slopers, underclings, and a slopey, holdless topout. | Red Rock | |||
V7 | ★★ Express | Mount Charleston | |||
5.13a | ★★ Shadow Warrior | Red Rock | |||
5.12d | Big Black Cadillac | 17m | Mount Charleston | ||
V7 | Old Times
| Red Rock | |||
5.13a | Ton-Ton Makeout | Pig Rock | |||
V6/7 | The Subway Roof Right | Mount Charleston | |||
5.12d | ★★★ Texas Tower Direct | 170m | Red Rock | ||
5.12d | ★★★ Metal Militia | Mount Charleston | |||
V7 | Bubble Butt
| Red Rock | |||
5.13a | The Feather
hard technical corner | 12m, 4 | Red Rock | ||
5.13a | Rubber Biscuit | Red Rock | |||
V7/8 | ★★ Drunken Monkey | Red Rock | |||
5.13a | ★★ Heart of Glass
Just right again, climb straight up the brown streak | 13 | Arrow Canyon | ||
V7 | Raether Problem | Red Rock | |||
5.12c/d | Catclaw | 17m | Mount Potosi | ||
V6/7 | ★★★ Good Times
| 4m | Red Rock | ||
V7 | The Podiatrist Sit | Red Rock | |||
5.12d | ★★ Satan in a Can
| 14m | Red Rock | ||
V7 | Pink Belly
About 20 feet uphill from Chess Boulder is boulder with pink/red rock of seemingly poor quality. Stand start with hueco features and top out directly above on some very sandy holds. | Red Rock |