Node |
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Kaymoor
Great climbing on great rock. Afternoon shade and lots of trees. |
Upper Kaymoor |
Upper Kaymoor |
5.11b Clock's On |
5.10b Nutter Butter |
5.11c ★ Flat Motor'n |
Unnamed 1
Bolt line right of the corner. |
Unnamed 2
Starts left of the arete and shares the anchor with Unnamed 1. |
5.11c Smell the Glove |
The Glory Hole |
The Glory Hole |
5.13b Against the Grain |
5.12d ★ Mojo Hand |
5.12d ★★★ Devil Doll |
5.13c In the Flat Field |
5.13a ★★★ Massacre |
5.12d ★★★ Lactic Acid Bath |
5.13a ★★ Blood Raid |
5.13a Skull Poke Direct Finish |
5.12c ★ Skull Poke |
5.12b ★★ Yowsah |
5.13a ★ Burning Cross |
5.12c Scar Lover |
5.12c ★ Final Exit |
First Buttress
From the parking hike back a bit on the road and take the approach to the miners trail (at the info signs). Hike down the trail and shortly after the first wooden stairs you will see a faint trail going up left to the obvious cliff. If you hike further down on the main trail you will hit the Kaymoor head house, in that case you went too far... |
First Buttress |
5.12d ★★ The Haulage |
5.12a ★★ The World's Hardest Five Twelve |
5.12d ★★ The Tantrum |
5.13a ★★ Sanctified |
5.12b ★ Tarbaby |
5.11b ★ Oh, It's You Bob |
5.11d ★★ Magnitude |
5.13a A0 ★ The Leather Nun |
5.10c ★ Wienie From the Past |
5.12d ★ The Rubber Glove Test |
5.11d 100% Real Cheese |
5.10a Attack of the Moss Clods |
5.12c ★ The Pocket Petting Zoo |
Rico Suave Buttress
Same approach as for First Buttress, just continue along the base of the cliff until you see a big ledge. |
Rico Suave Buttress |
5.13a ★★ Trouble in Paradise |
5.12b ★★ The Uninflatable Ewe |
5.10a ★ Totally Tammy |
5.10b Second Thoughts |
5.11a ★ Grit and Bear It |
5.7 Sand in My Crack |
5.11b ★ Not on the First Date |
5.10a ★★★ The Rico Suave Arete |
5.12b ★ Coal Miner's Tale |
5.11d ★★★ Out of the Bag |
5.12a ★★ Preparation H |
5.12a ★★ Pockets of Resistance |
5.12d Pockets of Resistance Direct Finish |
5.13b ★ Nude Brute |
5.9 ★★ The Good Old Days |
5.11a Collateral Damage |
5.10a Consumer Liability |
5.11c ★ Buried Treasure |
Unknown Crack
Left of the mine shaft |
Fire and Ice Buttress
You may approach this sector from both sides, from White Wall or from Rico Suave Buttress. The hike from Rico Suave is a bit of a bushwack. |
Fire and Ice Buttress |
5.13b ★ Albatross |
5.10d Bovine Seduction |
5.12a ★ S.L.A.P. |
5.12a ★ Carolina Crocker and the Tipple of Doom |
5.10b ★ Raiders of the Lost Crag |
5.10c ★ Malfunction Junction |
5.11c ★ Ice |
5.10c ★ Fire |
5.11d The Sound and the Slurry |
White Wall
A sector with some very nice climbs in the 5.12 range. Many of them stay dry in the rain. Routes are listed left to right, so you see the bolts of New Clear Potato Meltdown first. |
White Wall |
5.11a ★ The Shining |
5.13b
★ White Lightning
The line just left of Thunder Struck. |
5.12b
★★★ Thunder Struck
Starts on the leaning flake with the first 2 bolts on the slab. Then follows a small crack up, out right to good pockets and to a tough finish to the anchors. |
5.10b
★ Almost Heaven
Starts on the right face of the corner with some smaller crimps. |
5.10b R I'll Be-Gooned |
5.12a Ride'm Cowboy |
5.12c The Cow Girl |
5.10b ★ Damn the Lieback, Full Stem Ahead! |
5.12a ★ Swinging Udders |
5.12c ★ Boss Cocky |
5.9 ★ Searching For Sanctuary |
5.9 ★ Hidden Pleasures |
5.11b Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout |
5.11c ★★ Moon Child Posse |
5.11b ★ Half & Half |
White Face
The following 4 routes are on the tall light grey wall with the nice roof above it. The right 3 routes stay dry even during and after the strongest downpour. |
5.11c ★★ I Smell A-rete |
5.12a
★★ Dining at the Alter
The leftmost of the 3 tall routes on the nice face. |
5.12d Shang |
5.12c
★★★ Pettifogger
Starts in the corner / big crack and directly gains the face to the high first bolt. Easier terrain up to bolt 4 from where you reach into good unders. A reachy move into a slit are followed by a section that will test your finger strength. Jugs to the anchor. |
5.11b New Clear Potato Meltdown |
5.10a ★ J Tree Route |
Butcher's Branch
A very popular sector at Kaymoor that offers a lot from 5.9 to 5.13. A lot of work has been put in in building nice terraces for the popular left routes. |
Butcher's Branch |
5.10d Stop Pulling My Ear |
5.10d Arpeggio |
5.10a Play it by Ear |
5.6 Just Another Glitch |
5.10b
★★ The Green Piece
Starts on the top terrace. |
5.10b
★ Low Voltage
Starts with a samll crack and leads to anchors facing right. |
5.12b ★ Ministry |
5.11c ★★★ Sancho Belige |
5.11d ★★ The Bicycle Club |
5.10d Boing |