Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fri 6th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Blocks Area | |||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Disturbance — 2 attempts | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Two goes, on lead, then top rope. Very cruxy, major issue getting to first decentpod with the negative 9 cm ape factor my right arm has. Not sure it’s worth further time. Nice line though.
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Wed 4th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Wham, Bam, Thanks For The Jam | 21m | Average | ||||
Overhanging Fist crack- maybe if you have men hands, more like overhanging offwidth start. Didn’t even like the traverse around the corner or the crack to the top that much which were straightforward compared to start.
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Sun 29th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Rico Suave Buttress | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Totally Tammy | 18m | |||||
wandery line makes leading the first part a little adventurous. a couple fun moves, but not continuous.
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Sun 29th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Green Piece | 21m, 6 | |||||
very polished with decent movement
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Thu 26th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Layback and Enjoy It | 18m, 7 | |||||
fun, can be jammed instead of laybacking. smeary feet that would not be good to loose while in the finger lock though...
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Wed 25th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Cotton Top Cotton Top | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Cottonmouth | 6 | |||||
Sun 18th Oct 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Five-Five My Ass | 12m, 4 | |||||
tricky scary little roof section. Lots of loose sections of rock
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Sat 17th Oct 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Cotton Top Cotton Club | |||||||
5.10a | His | 18m | |||||
not super fun
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5.8 | Diggie Diggie Doo | 18m | |||||
was hard for a 5.8... or at least for my first in awhile...
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Mon 18th Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Just Send It Wall | |||||||
5.13b | ★★★ Just Send It | 21m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Surely the best climb in the New. If this is all I get to climb until I leave the States, I’ll be happy. All the moves are done, but linking will not come easy.
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Mon 11th Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Seven-Eleven Wall | |||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Slash and Burn | 23m | |||||
Come back with more skin
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Tue 15th Oct 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Snake Buttress | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Bullet The New Sky | 26m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Took two falls (3rd and 4th)
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Sun 1st Sep 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Cerveza Verde - with Julia | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
5.8 | ★ Beer Wench - with Jack | 15m | |||||
Thu 25th Apr 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Seven-Eleven Wall | |||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Slash and Burn | 23m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
What an amazing line. Don't think I have it in me to put it down in this trip, but the rock on this route is bullet hard, similar to Arapiles quartzite - so much packed into the line.
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Mon 22nd Apr 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor First Buttress | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ The World's Hardest Five Twelve | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Didn't pull the crux together for this one. Might come back. Great climb.
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Sat 3rd Nov 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.10a 5.9 | ★★ Crescendo | 18m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 2nd Nov 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.8 5.6 | ★ Five-Five My Ass | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 27th Oct 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Seven-Eleven Wall | |||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Scenic Adult | 27m | |||||
Fri 5th Oct 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Rico Suave Buttress | |||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Out of the Bag - with Ulfi | 23m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 5th Oct 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor White Wall | |||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Pettifogger - with Ulfi | 23m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 19th Sep 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Weisenheimer Brainstorm | 26m, 11 | |||||
bolt to bolt
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Sun 16th Sep 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Seven-Eleven Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Tit Speed | 23m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Middle nice tecky move going anchor pumpy and need to be as monkey.
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Sun 16th Sep 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Sancho Belige - with Ulfi | 23m | |||||
Power and indoor game
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5.10a | Play it by Ear - with Ulfi | 20m | |||||
Pumpy , no relax possition for anchor.
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Wed 12th Sep 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor White Wall | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Thunder Struck - with Ulfi | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
It is super nice moves. First 3 bolt easy after game is start. Till anchor you must to do boulder moves. Super nice route. I want to back this route.
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5.12a | ★★ Dining at the Alter - with Ulfi | 23m, 7 | |||||
If you are not tall enough it is harder from start to end. I can not say even hangdog i couldnt do a lot of moves.
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Wed 5th Sep 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Decameron Area | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Decameron - with Ulfi | 27m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
It is fun route but again two small slopy crimp pull up so for my solution hard for grade. Anchor view is best .
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Wed 5th Sep 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Lieback and Enjoy It - with Ulfi | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Start from left easer than start from right.
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Wed 29th Aug 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | |||||
Sat 28th Apr 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Rico Suave Buttress | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ The Rico Suave Arete | 20m | |||||
Sat 28th Apr 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor The Glory Hole | |||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Lactic Acid Bath | 23m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 3rd May 2017 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Diamond Point | |||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Leave It To Jesus | 34m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Amazing line. Definitely going back for more..
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Tue 2nd May 2017 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Reachers Of Habit | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Two hangs. A very interesting puzzle. Not sure what's up with the first bolt being 20 ft up though...
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Tue 2nd May 2017 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Zealous Area | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Zealous | ||||||
Hard finger crack crux... 5.10d in the guide but feels like 11a.
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Tue 9th Sep 2014 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Crescendo - with Prem Krishnamoorthy | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Took a rest at the crux near the second to last bolt. Very fun route.
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Mon 23rd Jun 2014 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Lost Souls | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
2 shots, just couldn't got it together on the last crux move 2nd time round, a great way to wrap the us trip though
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Sun 22nd Jun 2014 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Lost Souls | 20m | |||||
Could do all the moves, just tired. Great climb.
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Sat 21st Jun 2014 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall The Cirque | |||||||
5.12b | ★ Graffiti | ||||||
Greasy sloper crimping Dyno that I could actually do and one other hold I couldn't hold. Such a sandbag!.
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5.12b | ★ Graffiti | ★★ Very Good | |||||
3 shots, this seemed really hard, esp. the lower transition move out of the crack onto the face, tried 3-4 options all seemed equally possible but couldn't stick any of them
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Tue 17th Jun 2014 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Honeymooner's Area | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Jesus and Tequila | 26m, 9 | |||||
Mon 16th Jun 2014 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Seven-Eleven Wall | |||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Slash and Burn | 23m | |||||
Sat 7th Jun 2014 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Cotton Top Cotton Top | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Psycho Wrangler | ||||||
hit the slopers and started flailing. too trashed from yesterday!
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Sat 7th Jun 2014 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall The Cirque | |||||||
5.12b | ★★ Hourglass | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
After belaying Jon on some big sideways whippers above the last bolt decided to opt out on this one, very good, will probably go the rp if we go back
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Fri 6th Jun 2014 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fantasy Area | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Blackhappy | 26m, 9 | |||||
3 shots. could work out the crux start and get through til the last pumpy section before my fingers fatigued. the last move to the anchors is petrifying. long fall through tree branches and since I really didn't want my obituary to read impaled on tree branch, I stick clipped the anchor (which needed a bloody long stick) having done that and worked out the top, its not so bad (although I would have fallen first time). great moves. just need sleep and more finger endurance. feels like a 27!
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Mon 2nd Jun 2014 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Honeymooner's Area | |||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Quinsana Plus | 27m, 10 | |||||
2 shots. cant do last move to mantle. fingers still need work but definitely getting stronger. amazing moves to the last section.
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5.13a | ★★★ Quinsana Plus | 27m, 10 | |||||
A top rope shot a seeing what a NRG face 5.13 is like - consensus pretty frickin hard all the way from the ground up.
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Sun 1st Jun 2014 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor White Wall | |||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Pettifogger | 23m | |||||
getting closer. just need more contact strength for the crux move. unfortunately its the hand with the stuffed finger. hopefully ill have time for it to get strong again and tick this. 3 shots
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5.12c | ★★★ Pettifogger | 23m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
2 very ordinary attempts, holds felt worse than last time though conditions felt better, think I am a bit tired.
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Fri 16th May 2014 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor White Wall | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Dining at the Alter | 23m, 7 | |||||
2 shots. close
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5.12c | ★★★ Pettifogger | 23m | |||||
need to train my power endurance! 3 shots
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5.12a | ★★ Dining at the Alter | 23m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Climbing to the roof is beautiful, crimpy, technical goodness, then after the roof is brutal, thuggy bouldering. Hard to rate this route, I wouldn't probably go back for though. 2 shots
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5.12c | ★★★ Pettifogger | 23m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
If there wasn't so much reinforcing glue I would call this a mega classic. Slowly building in difficulty, into beautiful technical boulder moves through the roof an to the anchors. Don't pull too hard on the clipping jug it feels very hollow. Can't wait to get back on it - a nrg must do. 3 shots.
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Tue 6th May 2014 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.12b | ★ Ministry | 12m | |||||
so close.
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5.12b | ★ Ministry | 12m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Jug hauling till you hit a tricky crimp crux, 2 shots - will bag it in a shot or two fresh
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Wed 2nd Oct 2013 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ The Entertainer | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
mock traditional climb
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Sat 21st Jul 2012 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fantasy Area | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Aesthetica | 26m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sat 28th May 2011 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Workmen's Buttress | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Two Bag Face | 24m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 6th Sep 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Super Mario Boulder | |||||||
5.10d | Pinckney Route | Average | |||||
Sun 10th Aug 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Team Machine | 21m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 19th Jul 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Seven-Eleven Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Tony the Tiger | 24m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Used this as a sort of warm-up for Scenic Adult. Figured out pretty good beta for the top crux. Hard to believe it was 2005 when I first ticked this thing. Great climb.
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5.10c | ★★ First Steps | ★ Good | |||||
Warmed up on this before Scenic Adult. I had forgotten how good it was.
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Fri 27th Jun 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Control | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Another rainy day. Bottom was very damp but rest was good. Early section was crimpy and hard but rest is pretty doable.
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Sun 22nd Jun 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Maranatha Area | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Maranatha | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Burly start. Two cruxes. Nearly ready to lead.
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Sun 15th Jun 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Seven-Eleven Wall | |||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Scenic Adult | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Took two more burns on this thing and got it with one fall. Can't believe I waited so long to get back on it. It's stellar. I think the one crux clip was moved lower as it didn't seem nearly as scary as I recalled....
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5.11d | ★★★ Scenic Adult | 27m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Two more tries. Should go very soon.
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Sun 25th May 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain The Brain | |||||||
5.9 | ★ You Want It, You Got It | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Pumpy moves
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Sun 25th May 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Gilded Otter | 15m | Don't Bother | ||||
very awkward
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5.8 5.9 | ★ Cerveza Verde | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very good with exciting moves down low
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Sun 11th May 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Promised Area | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Gemini Crack, Right | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super-Sustained! Undergraded?
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Sun 2nd Mar 2008 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Zag | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
do this one again
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Mon 5th Nov 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Idol Point | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ The Spectre | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Super Awesome Climb! I just didn't have the endurance to finish the last two moves.
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Mon 5th Nov 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
5.11b | Que's Jook Joint | Average | |||||
Sat 20th Oct 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Rico Suave Buttress | |||||||
5.11b | ★ Not on the First Date | 17m | ★ Good | ||||
5.11a | ★ Grit and Bear It | 17m | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 5th Oct 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Gilded Otter | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
I need to try this one again...didn't get it very well. Bethany climbed it after me and did great!!
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Fri 21st Sep 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★ My Sister Makes Cluster Bombs | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
almost did it redpoint, instead I took a nice 20 footer on the second bolt!
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Thu 20th Sep 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Team Jesus | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
one move makes the route...left hand on that ledge, left foot in that little pocket above the toe ledge, right foot a few inches higher and to the right of the crack, muscle your way up onto your right foot while grabing that little sideways crimper, then get up the rest of the way on your right foot, bringing your left foot to where your left hand was.
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Thu 6th Sep 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ St. Pauli Girl | 17m | ★ Good | ||||
my first above a 5.8+
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Mon 27th Aug 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Bubba Buttress | |||||||
5.10d | ★ Immaculate Combustion | 24m | Average | ||||
Sat 25th Aug 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Tree Route | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Jaws | 17m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 12th Aug 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite (New Yosemite (Climbing Under The Influence)) | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 11th Aug 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ The Good Book | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 20th May 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | |||||||
5.12b | ★★ Grace Note | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
If this climb is 12b, there are very few moves below that grade. Very good quality cimb.
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Sat 19th May 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.10a | Enteruptus | 21m | Average | ||||
Nice climb until half way through the traverse, where you encounter all the dirt from run off. Unfortunately these are also the crux moves.
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Mon 14th May 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ St. Pauli Girl | 17m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really awesome climb, just didn't wasn't my day
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Sat 21st Apr 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ New River Gunks | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
I got all the way to the top, literally touching the anchors, but I could figure out how to pull myself up on the ledge without a rest.
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Sat 21st Apr 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Celebration Ale | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Great climb!
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Tue 3rd Apr 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Plumber's Crack | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
I need to do this one again...
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Sat 10th Mar 2007 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Stretch Armstrong | 21m | |||||
Wed 27th Dec 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Diamond Point | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Strike a Scowl | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 9th Dec 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Bubbaweiser | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 4th Nov 2006 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.10d | Stop Pulling My Ear | 20m | Don't Bother | ||||
Went to clip the 4th bolt, hand was slipping off the sloper since i wasnt on the correct clipping JUG!?! (oops) I then grabbed the draw to avoid a ledge fall and clipped; took then finished it.
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5.11c | ★★★ Sancho Belige | 23m | ★ Good | ||||
After missing the right hold and almost falling off before making the 2nd clip, things just got worse. At the crux right crimp I didn't commit and then pumped out. Again higher up i lacked the commitment and took multiple times before finishing the route.
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5.9 | ★★★ Flight of the Gumbie | 24m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
.. last climb and i was tired... it's a long climb..
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5.10d | Boing | 21m | |||||
Very fun climb, definitely one i'm looking forward to red-pointing!
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5.10b | ★★ The Green Piece | 21m, 6 | |||||
Did not like this climb. Just did not feel right
|
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5.10d | Boing | 21m | Average | ||||
Fun, definitely not 10d....maybe only a b
|
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5.10b | ★★ The Green Piece | 21m, 6 | ★ Good |