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Routes in Eagle Creek Canyon

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 133 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Mayhem Cove
5.10d Physical Evidence Unknown
5.12a Fatal Attraction Unknown
5.12b India Ink Unknown
5.11d The Coroner Unknown
5.12a Mandatory Suicide Unknown
5.11c Mutilated Corpse Unknown
5.11c Malice in Chains

Begin with very enjoyable technical face climbing on incut edges to a decent rest. Following the rest stance, climb the crux bulge using underclings, gastons, and sloper side pulls. The crux is followed by really fun jug climbing for 30 feet. This is a really nice route; well bolted and longer than the 11- routes to the right. My only complaint would be that you can clip bolts for routes on your right and left at one point.

4th bolt-line from the right (Car Jacker being the first line) on the lower, west facing cliff.

8 bolts + anchors

Sport 18m, 8
5.11b/c Temporary Insanity

The line squeezed in just left of DWI shares some holds through the lower portion and has some interesting features of it's own higher on the wall.

7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Sport 15m, 7
5.11b DWI

This route is located on the face of the lower section of Mayhem Cove, which is the first section of rock you will get to taking the main path.

It starts on the second line of bolts from the right, and where the climb hits a bulge about 20 feet off the ground, you continue up the line of bolts that go straight up, instead of out over the bulge. The climb over the bulge is called Overkill (5.11c).

Climb the tough sustained face to a convoluted rest at the left side of the bulge, then continue up through chimney-esque moves to the top.

6 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

Sport 12m, 6
5.11c Overkill

Same start as DWI but go right out the roof to the arete / prow excellent upper section

Sport 12m
5.9 Car Jacker

Climb the rightmost line of bolts on the lower section of Mayhem Cove.

Being the only existing 5.9 in Mayhem Cove, this is a great warmup, A tricky interesting move gets you up over the bulge about 20 feet up. Climbing after the first bulge is pretty straighforward, but well worth the climb. This route is pretty pumpy for a 5.9.

It's a fairly long ways to the first bolt, but the climbing up to this point is easy. 7 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor (mussys) and a poor-quality open shut.

Sport 12m, 7
5.13a Jumbolia Unknown
5.13a Black Rain Unknown
5.12c Verbal Abuse Unknown
5.13a Slander Unknown
5.13a Cajun Hell Unknown
5.12b Huntin' Gator

Huntin' Gator is the first pitch of the infamous test piece Cajun Hell. Take the class 4 scramble up the long diagonal ramp cutting leftward up Mayhem Cove. It begins within the cave as the second route from the right and fourth from the left although the bolted lines for the other routes are sporadic at best. 7 bolts lead to a 2 bolt hanging belay anchor system on the headwall. Find the fixed bolt on the ramp for the belay person. The second through fourth bolts have fixed chains so you'll know you're on the right route. Through the first four bolts you're treated to wildly overhanging powerful moves rightward out to the overhanging face. The next 2 bolts offer big holds and a chance to catch your breath, but the technical redpoint crux awaits as you move up and left towards the anchors.

If you continue up and left past the anchors following the diagonal seam along the overhanging headwall, this is Drinkin' White Lightning, the 5.12c second half of Cajun Hell.

7 bolts to a 2 bolt wire cable and fixed biner anchor system

Sport 12m, 7
5.12c Drinkin' Wite Lightning Unknown
5.12c Tar Babies Unknown
5.13a Gator Bait

Awesome alternative before the business on Cajun Hell. A dicey lay back leads to a slopy hand traverse and a pumpy finish. One of the best on the wall

FFA: Graham Sanders, 2003

FA: Graham Sanders, 2003

Set: Graham Sanders, 2003

Boulder 25m, 9
5.11c Riddler Unknown
5.11b Florida Man

Head up through the mini roof and onto the face. A couple of tricky sequencing leads to a double crack and chains. Very well protected. Second route on ramp. 15 bolts plus mussy hooks for anchors

Sport 30m, 15
5.11a The Guillotine Direct

Start up the right-facing corner. A couple of easy moves gets you to the first bolt. Climb through a series of roofs and blocks leading to a clean corner capped with a small roof. A few more bolts of climbing leads you to the first anchor.

*New extension: From the anchors climb straight up into the Gulliontin to a small shelf above for a great view. 3 Bolts (10a) - Still Dirty, Beware.

12 bolts + mussy hooks

Sport 24m, 12
5.11a Skullduggery

The lowest climb on the ledge that cuts diagonally up and left across Mayhem Cove, Skullduggery ascends numerous overhaning blocks with many hand-to-fist-sized cracks between them.

9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. There's a bolt up and right of the first bolt that is completely off route, as the following bolt is left of the first.

Sport 21m, 9
5.10a/b Phallucy

To the left of the diamond. It is right at the base of the large ramp that heads up left to harder routes.

Start at some large blocky terrain. It's safer to come in from the left if leading, but a direct start is possible. Follow some blocks for about 5 bolts through a few powerful moves with good pro. Then surmount an overhanging bulge and finally there are a few smooth ramps with face climbing.

This route has it's own anchors and it's easy to reach Diamond's anchors as well.

12 bolts + anchor bolts

FA: Kenny Thompson 1993

Sport 30m, 12
5.10b Diamond Unknown
5.12b Psycho II Unknown
5.12a Disturbing the Priest Unknown
5.12b Unknown Unknown
5.10d Pigs in a Blender Unknown
5.10d Coma Sutra Unknown
5.12a Distand Early Warning Unknown
5.10b Gumby Goes to Hollywood Unknown
5.10b Lizard Man Unknown
Eagle Lake Buttress
Class 4 Mountaineer's Route Trad
5.9 A Line Trad
5.9 I'm a Gumby Dammit

FA: Craig Morgan, Grahm Kent & Mark Dvorak

Trad
5.9 Wind Tree Trad
5.5 Eagle Route Trad
5.10a Monkey Business Trad
5.8 Orange Book Trad
5.9 Orange Sunshine Trad
5.7 East Ridge Route Trad 3
Eagle Lake Cliffs Eagle Lake Cliff
5.12b Wild at Heart Unknown
5.11a The Criterion Unknown
5.10d Thrust is a Must Unknown
5.10c Seams to Me Trad
5.10c The Nagual Unknown
5.10a Barney Rubble Unknown
5.11a Quest for Power Unknown
5.10d Quest for Glory

This might be the same as QFP but listed differently in the supper topo guide

Trad
5.10b Space Truckin' Trad
5.11d Space Walk Unknown
5.8 Separated Reality Unknown
5.10c Off the Wall Sport
5.8 Unknown Chimney

This climb is pretty fun for the novelty alone. A progressively widening chimney finally leads to face moves at the very top. Well, for the shorties it does, at even a mere 6' in height I was able to use the back wall all the way up to get my full stem's worth. Bolts make this climb very accessible.

This climb is located in the obvious chimney formed by the detached pillar that is directly in front of the wall forming the famous Spacewalk crack system. Bolts to wrap anchor.

Sport 24m
A3 Polecat Aid
5.10a The Vulture Unknown
5.11b The Buzzard Unknown
5.8 Changeling Unknown
5.10a Cracula Unknown
5.10b Buster Brown Trad
5.9 Block Buster Unknown
5.11c Master Race Unknown
5.11d Der Fuhrer Unknown
5.10a Master of Disaster Trad
Eagle Lake Cliffs Punk Rock
5.10a Moon Raker Unknown
5.9 Lost and Found Unknown
5.10c Atomic Punk Unknown
Eagle Lake Cliffs Upper Eagle Creek Cliff
5.12a Gold Mettle Unknown
Eagle Lake Cliffs Three Stooges Wall
5.12a The Manny Unknown
5.10a The MO Crack Unknown
5.10d The Jack Crack Unknown
Bay Area Cliff
5.6 The Jester Top rope
5.9 The Emerald Beyond Top rope
5.10b Thin Fingers Unknown
5.11c Sandbagged Unknown
5.9 Delbert's Diagonal Top rope
5.9 Delbert's Direct Top rope
God Wall
5.11 Unknown Unknown
5.11c Holy Moses Unknown
5.12a Light Years Unknown
5.11d Hail Mary Unknown
5.11d Godsend Unknown
5.10d Race with the Devil Unknown
Smoke Rock
5.11+ Unnamed 1 Unknown
5.11+ Unnamed 2 Unknown
5.7 Unnamed 3 Unknown
5.10 Unnamed 4 Unknown
5.11a Unnamed 5 Unknown
5.10c Unnamed 6 Unknown
5.11b Unnamed 7 Unknown
Ninety-Foot Wall
5.7 Shunman the Human Top rope 20m
5.7 Rentier Top rope
5.11a Lost in Space Top rope
5.8 Strontium 90 Top rope
5.11b Bastille Top rope
5.10b Relativity Top rope
5.2 Casual Observer Trad
5.10c Alias Emil Bart Top rope

Showing 1 - 100 out of 133 routes.

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