Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Dihedrals | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Bunny Face | ||||||
Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Christian Brothers The Testament Slab | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Irreverence | 25m | |||||
5.9 | ★ Revelations | ||||||
Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship River Face | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Caffeine Free | ||||||
Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Morning Glory Wall Area The Peanut | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Hop on Pop | 20m, 7 | |||||
5.8 | ★ Peanut Brittle | 20m, 6 | |||||
5.10a | ★ Pop Goes the Nubbin | 7 | |||||
Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Picnic Lunch Wall Area Picnic Lunch Wall | |||||||
5.10a ~5.9 | ★★ Honey Pot | 24m, 11 | |||||
Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Red Wall Area Red Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Phantasmagoria | ||||||
Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Picnic Lunch Wall Area Picnic Lunch Wall | |||||||
5.10b |
★ Teddy Bear's Picnic
1
5.10a
2
5.10b
| 100m, 12 | |||||
Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Morning Glory Wall Area The Four Horsemen | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Pack Animal Direct | ||||||
Fri 26th Apr 2024 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships East Ship River Face | |||||||
★ Time to Power (Pitch 1) | 30m, 5 | ||||||
5.8 ~5.9 | ★★ Time to Shower | 5 | |||||
Fri 26th Apr 2024 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship River Face | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Caffeine Free | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Phone Call From Satan | 29m | |||||
Fri 26th Apr 2024 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Morning Glory Wall Area Zebra Area | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Gumby | 23m, 5 | |||||
Fri 26th Apr 2024 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Morning Glory Wall Area Overboard Area | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Nine Gallon Buckets | 30m, 12 | |||||
Fri 15th Dec 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Morning Glory Wall Area Overboard Area | |||||||
5.12b | ★ Energy Crisis | 25m, 7 | |||||
First time on this. Worked the crux (and the rest). Should go in a couple sessions. Crux is insanely thin for 12b
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5.11a | ★★★ Magic Light | 25m, 9 | |||||
warm up
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5.11a | ★★★ Magic Light | 25m, 9 | |||||
warm up
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Fri 15th Dec 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Chicken McNuggets | 24m, 9 | |||||
put mussy hooks on the anchor
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Sun 26th Nov 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully Cocaine Gully Left | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Bloodshot | 27m | |||||
Fri 17th Nov 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Chicken McNuggets | 24m, 9 | |||||
5.12a | ★★★ Freebase — 2 attempts | 25m, 7 | |||||
Fri 17th Nov 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship River Face | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Phone Call From Satan | 29m | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Phone Call From Satan | 29m | |||||
Wed 15th Nov 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Freebase — 2 attempts | 25m, 7 | |||||
5.10d ~5.11a | ★★ Powder Up the Nose | 20m | |||||
Wed 15th Nov 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship River Face | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Caffeine Free Finish | ||||||
5.10a Hard | ★★ Caffeine Free | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Phone Call From Satan | 29m | |||||
Wed 8th Nov 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Freebase — 2 attempts | 25m, 7 | |||||
5.10c | ★★★ Deep impact | ||||||
Tue 31st Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships East Ship Shipwreck Wall | |||||||
5.10c Hard | ★★★ Fish N' Chips | 22m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 31st Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Picnic Lunch Wall Area Picnic Lunch Wall | |||||||
5.11c |
Sharing is Caring P1
1
| 91m, 13 | |||||
5.10a Easy | ★★ Honey Pot | 24m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Freebase — 2 attempts | 25m, 7 | |||||
Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully Cocaine Gully Left | |||||||
5.12b | ★★ Crack Babies | 15m, 5 | |||||
Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship River Face | |||||||
5.10a Hard | ★★ Caffeine Free | ||||||
5.10a Hard | ★★ Caffeine Free | ||||||
Tue 24th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully | |||||||
5.10d ~5.11a | ★★ Powder Up the Nose | 20m | |||||
Tue 24th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship River Face | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Covid-5.10 | 8 | |||||
Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships East Ship Shipwreck Wall | |||||||
5.11a Easy | ★ More Sandy Than Kevin - with Maxwell Cullen | 15m, 6 | |||||
5.11c | ★★★ Riptide - with Maxwell Cullen | 15m, 6 | |||||
massive benefit from stealing maxes beta for flash attempt dropped at about 1M from anchors but move was hella hard so would have fell anyway
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Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Dihedrals | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Watts Tots — 4 attempts - with Meredith Apple | 23m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Almost got it, ahhh well. Not sure if this is classic because it's good or classic because it was the first bolted face in Smith.
Regardless, it's got probably one of the coolest holds I've ever used on it. That weird spock/X grip in the crux is wild. |
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Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships East Ship Shipwreck Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Riptide | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Rough!! But fun. Super unusual style for Smith.
Almost dropped it a few times but fuck the last move is a heartbreaker. Only just held it together, dynoing from an arete with my heel in my mouth to a thank-god jug at the anchor. Weirdly classic. |
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Fri 20th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships East Ship Shipwreck Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★ More Sandy Than Kevin | 15m, 6 | Average | ||||
Less fun
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5.11b | ★★ Blue Light Special | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Super fun
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Thu 19th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully | |||||||
5.12a Hard | ★★★ Freebase — 2 attempts - with Meredith Apple | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Came out of my tantrum-induced-retirement and got the send, thank goodness.
So nails, so movement specific. Never been on a more foot-placement focussed route. Weirdly feels like the grade when you've worked out the beta. Very not straightforward. 4 days and like 10 shots? Lots of top roping and being bricked above bolts. |
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5.12a Hard | ★★★ Freebase | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fell at the top like an absolute punter, time to retire
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Wed 18th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Armageddon | 9 | |||||
Wed 18th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully Cocaine Gully Left | |||||||
5.12b | ★★ Crack Babies | 15m, 5 | |||||
Wed 18th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully | |||||||
5.12a Hard | ★★★ Freebase | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Dog x 3. This thing makes me feel like such a shit climber lol.
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Wed 18th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Christian Brothers The Testament Slab | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Blasphemy | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Super varied movement for a relatively short route.
Got on this just to remind myself that I can climb stuff occasionally. Smiff hard yo. |
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Tue 17th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Christian Brothers The Testament Slab | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Blasphemy | 20m | |||||
Cool moves only a few crimps and pockets so my poor skin got a break. Kinda trad-ey
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Tue 17th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Freebase | 25m, 7 | |||||
Still hard but can do the moves now
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Mon 16th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Dihedrals | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Watts Tots - with Maxwell Cullen | 23m, 5 | |||||
Feels over rated
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5.12a Hard | ★★ Latin Lover - with Maxwell Cullen | 20m, 7 | |||||
Took a lot of work there was nothing powerful just thin insecure climbing top to bottom
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Thu 12th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Morning Glory Wall Area Churning Buttress | |||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Churning In The Wake — 2 attempts | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Another couple of bashes up the sickest thing in existence.
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Thu 12th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Powder Up the Nose — 2 attempts | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Shits hard yo
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Wed 11th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully Cocaine Gully Left | |||||||
5.12b | ★★ Crack Babies | 15m, 5 | |||||
5.12b | ★★ Crack Babies | 15m, 5 | |||||
5.12b | ★★ Crack Babies | 15m, 5 | |||||
Wed 11th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Morning Glory Wall Area Churning Buttress | |||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Churning In The Wake | 20m, 7 | |||||
First attempt was an absolute dog fest. Second I made some links and saw some progress, a few bits at top I havent figured out....
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Mon 9th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Dihedrals | |||||||
5.12a Hard | ★★ Latin Lover | 20m, 7 | |||||
When I first tried this I thought maybe first or second go….then proceeded to not free any of the moves, not free any on top rope…my ego didn’t want to long term project a 24…but here I am. Today made some actual links. Linking everything seems daunting. Thin, thinner then anything I’ve tried pure face, no jugs to retreat and shake, insecure, minuscule feet, ten foot moves to one hand move from one painfully sharp crimp to another…
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5.12b ~5.12a | ★ The Flat Earth | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pretty average rock in the bottom and top thirds, but the mid-section crux is awesome.
Probably on the softer side as well, considering it's right next to Latin Lover (which gets 12a) which I can barely pull onto. Grades are dumb. |
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5.12a ~5.12b | ★★ Latin Lover — 2 attempts | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Will I ever not dog this? If this is 12a then everything back home is soft
Awesome, puzzling, vertical-dyslexia inducing. |
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Mon 9th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully Cocaine Gully Left | |||||||
5.12b | ★★ Crack Babies — 3 attempts | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super fun bouldery jugging. Took a few more shots than expected and paid a blood sacrifice on the way 🙏
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships East Ship Shipwreck Wall | |||||||
5.12b | ★★ Liquid Jade | 15m, 7 | |||||
stopper crux
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5.11b | ★★ Blue Light Special | 15m, 6 | |||||
Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Chicken McNuggets | 24m, 9 | |||||
5.11b | ★★ Vomit Launch | 25m | |||||
Just barely pumped out of my brain
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5.12a | ★★★ Freebase | 25m, 7 | |||||
So hard. wtf. Super humbling
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully Cocaine Gully Left | |||||||
5.12b | ★★ Crack Babies | 15m, 5 | |||||
Steep climbing unique for smith rock
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5.11c | ★★★ Bloodshot | 27m | |||||
very fun
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Wed 4th Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully Cocaine Gully Left | |||||||
5.12b | ★★ Crack Babies | 15m, 5 | |||||
5.12b | ★★ Crack Babies | 15m, 5 | |||||
5.12b | ★★ Crack Babies | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super fun! Steep bouldery jugging
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Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully | |||||||
5.12a Hard | ★★★ Freebase | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Got all the moves this time but Jesus fuck this thing is hard
Some of the most cryptic and consistently interesting climbing I've ever tried |
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Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully Cocaine Gully Left | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Bloodshot | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Repeat because it's terrific
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Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Smith Rock Group East Side Routes Phoenix Buttress | |||||||
5.10d | ★ Fred on Air | 24m, 6 | |||||
Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Rope De Dope Block | |||||||
5.10c | ★ Sting Like a Bee | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Sleepy Town | 5 | |||||
5.10a | ★★ Unknown | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Float Like a Butterfly | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Low Blow | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Shamu | ||||||
Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Morning Glory Wall Area Churning Buttress | |||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Churning In The Wake | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
On our last day got it pretty well dialed to one fall. Took one of the bigger whips of my life punting off the jug before the final hard moves.
Next time I’m in North America this will be high on the list for sure.
Doesn’t get much better! |
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Shake 'n Flake - with Carleigh Burns | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully Cocaine Gully Left | |||||||
5.12b | ★★ Crack Babies - with Carleigh Burns | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Dropped the onsight by using the wrong hand. Went straight after
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Monkey Face Area Monkey Face | |||||||
5.7 A1 | ★★★ Pioneer Route | 45m | |||||
5.8 | ★★★ West Face Variation P2-3 | 75m | |||||
5.8 |
Godzilla P1
| 25m | |||||
Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully | |||||||
5.12a Hard | ★★★ Freebase | 25m, 7 | |||||
Thought this was nails but still learning the style I guess
Awesome and unlikely movement |
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5.11b Hard | ★★ Vomit Launch | 25m | |||||
Rough but awesome
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
The Wooden Ships West Ship Cocaine Gully Cocaine Gully Left | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Bloodshot | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Rad
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Morning Glory Wall Area Overboard Area | |||||||
5.12b ~5.12c | ★ Energy Crisis | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Desperate V5-6 boulder off the deck followed by pumpy 5.11ish climbing to the top. Is it any good? Hard to say...
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Morning Glory Wall Area Churning Buttress | |||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Churning In The Wake | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
So many pockets. Keen to go for the send next time
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Morning Glory Wall Area Overboard Area | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Magic Light | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | |||||||
Morning Glory Wall Area Churning Buttress | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Cool Ranch Flavor Extension | 27m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
All bricked up and nowhere to go. A nice day of sampling some harder stuff tho
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