Routes as trad in Red River Gorge

Bolted Anchors. 70 m rope to rap down.

Great line which stars in a corner. Crux is the upper section on the left of a small dihedral on an awkward bulge. Lieback with high feet until you can reach good feet on the right side of the column. Then cruise on jugs to a 2bolt anchor.

Gorgeous varied finger crack up a very open corner, let down only a little by its rock quality.

First pitch goes at 5.4. Belay from chains. Walk through a 'hallway' to get to the start of the second pitch. Rappel from VERY loose bolted anchors or from a tree.

nice finger crack, cool history to first ascent

Jam the crack to a short roof, move right at the roof and the the dihedral to a ledge. Climb a crumbly face for a few feet to the main ledge.

Left slanting crack visible from where the trail meets the wall.

Hand crack down low to slight off width, jamming necessary since there are few feet on the face. After the tree midway, just lie back your way to the top. I placed two 2’s in the short crack beneath the anchors. Everything else I placed was .75 and lower. Placed an offset nut, but passive gear is not needed. Bring a sling for the tree.

Bolted anchors. 70m needed to rap down.

Vertical flake to about 60 ft, transitions to left trending ascending horizontal flake system to a high step move to a ledge alter bumping from a krimp to a high jug. Walk the ledge left about 15 feet to anchor bolts at your feet. The ledge will protect with small cams about mid way. The upper flake protects well mostly with #2's, 1's, and an occasional #3. Bring 4 #2's if you have them.

Bottom hand crack is easy. Pulling into the upper crack is the crux. 2 bolt anchor.

Starts by scrambling a few metres up to a ledge. Up the wide corner (or scarily up the unprotected face) and into the finger crack. Make your way up this to the obvious break, truck left a little and finish up the final dihedral at the top.

Off width with tough fingery finish. 2 anchor bolts.

One of the best and longest in its class, is definitely worth a visit to Chica Bonita Wall. Climb the gorgeous right angling crack unti it ends with rap anchors.

Long crack. Very good climb. 2 bolt anchor.

Twin cracks to the right of the Rifleman