Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Black Velvet Canyon Black Velvet Wall | |||||
5.9 | ★ Refried Brains
| 190m | |||
5.12- | American Ghostdance | ||||
5.11 | Sandstone Samuri | ||||
5.10 II R | ★★ Rock Warrior
| 270m | |||
5.10c III | ★★ The Prince of Darkness
| 200m | |||
5.10a IV | ★★★ Dream of Wild Turkeys | 300m, 10 | |||
5.10 | Yellow Brick Road
| 130m | |||
5.10- | ★★ The Gobbler
| 73m | |||
5.10+ PG13 | ★★★ Fiddler on the Roof
| 240m | |||
5.10- | Early Times | ||||
5.10+ | Johny Come Lately | ||||
5.10a | ★★★ Sour Mash
1
5.10a
150'
2
5.9
150'
3
5.8
50'
4
5.9
130'
5
5.10a
90'
6
5.9/10a
75'
Sour Mash is one of Red Rocks finest climbs. With varied climbing, tons of thin cracks, face climbing cruxs, and an intriguing traversing roof to crack. It features a mix of styles, between traditionally protected and well-bolted pitches. The bolted cruxs with the fifth pitch being the crux pitch. Small cams to #3 Camalot are good to have. The start is easily identified by a large and deep arch on the R side of Black Velvet Wall. The route follows discontinuous cracks through the R edge of the arch's roof and then angles slightly back L as it ascends the steep wall above.
Descend via rappelling off the middle of the giant roof. | 200m, 6 | |||
5.11+ | My Little Pony | ||||
5.10+ | Velveeta | ||||
5.10 | Malicious Mischief | ||||
5.10+ | Chalk Is Cheap | ||||
5.12d | ★★★ Texas Tower Direct | 170m | |||
5.9 | ★★★ Epinephrine
This is it. THE classic red rocks route. And it's just as good as everyone says it is. Original route description said 18 pitches, but it can be done in as little as 11 with some boldish soloing in the upper segments.
FA: Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste & Joe Herbst, 1978 | 680m, 16 | |||
5.11 | Texas Hold'em | ||||
5.10+ | Lone Star | ||||
5.11a | Yellow rose of texas | ||||
Black Velvet Canyon Western Spaces Wall | |||||
5.10+ | ★ Stick for Toys
FA: Brad Stewart & Dan Meyers | 180m | |||
5.10+ | Tranquility Base | ||||
5.10+ | Desert Solitude | ||||
5.11+ | The Breathing Stone | ||||
5.11- | Western Spaces | ||||
5.10 | Black Sun | ||||
5.10+ | Mr. Natural of the Desert | ||||
Black Velvet Canyon Main Boulders | |||||
V5 | Freedom Fighter | ||||
V15 | Squoze
Immediately to the left of Sleepwalker. FA: Jimmy Webb, 6 Dec 2018 | ||||
V16 | Sleepwalker
First attempted by Nalle Hukkataival. FA: Jimmy Webb, 15 Dec 2018 | ||||
V17 | Return of the Sleepwalker
Sit start to 'Sleepwalker'. FA: Daniel Woods, 30 Mar 2021 | ||||
V4 | ★★★ The Little V4 | ||||
V2 | ★★★ Natasha's Highball | ||||
V7 | ★★ Red Dragon | ||||
V4 | ★★★ The Little Toe | ||||
V5 | The Podiatrist | ||||
V7 | The Podiatrist Sit | ||||
Black Velvet Canyon Right Fork Boulders | |||||
V10 | Gunga Galunga | ||||
Black Velvet Canyon Wet Dream | |||||
V12 | Wet Dream
FA: Ethan Pringle | ||||
V11 | Wet Dream Right
Same start as Wet Dream but to the right. FA: Ethan Pringle | ||||
V12 | Abaddon
Zander Waller suggests V9 for the route (2023). | ||||
Mud Springs Canyon Bouldering Moonshine Boulder | |||||
V4 | Moonshine Right
SDS on right side of boulder on decent edge feature. make your way up then traverse left following the arete edge to the apex to top out. | ||||
Windy Canyon | |||||
5.8 | Diet Delight | ||||
5.10 | Ain't No Saint | ||||
5.9 | Slabotomy | ||||
5.8 III | ★★ Jubilant Song | ||||
5.5 | Jubilant Song Variation | ||||
5.8 | ★★★ Hot Fudge Thursday
FA: Jorge/Joanne Urioste | ||||
5.10a | The Aid Crack | 15m | |||
5.5 | Jackass Flats | 91m | |||
5.10 | Action by Knight | 91m | |||
V2 | Brown Kisses | ||||
Windy Canyon Windy Canyon Bouldering Le Cheval | |||||
V2 | ★★★ Le Cheval
| ||||
V6 | Le Cul de Cheval
backside of boulder. stand start crimps to sloper to jug | ||||
V6 | Fritz Problem
slopey traverse on varnish. gets sun. | ||||
V3 | Le Cheval Droit
start as for cheval but go right under roof, use undercling to surmount roof. | ||||
V4/5 | ★★ Bucephalus
start as for cheval, traverse under roof to top out as for ben's blessing | ||||
V4/5 | Ben's Blessing
stand start with left hand sloper, right hand on a sharp crimp. large move up and right to crimp, then top out directly above. | ||||
Windy Canyon Windy Canyon Bouldering Big Red | |||||
V6 | ★ Big Red
Stand start on edge at head height. Climb hueco features straight up (edge is useful) then top out above. Looks like a key foot may have broken. | ||||
V3 | Unknown
Short one-mover... on right side of boulder there's a good head height two hand edge. establish on edge and go up to rail and mantle. There's a large grey boulder behind you, but should be ok with spotter. | ||||
Windy Canyon Windy Canyon Bouldering The Sting | |||||
V4 | ★★★ The Sting
| ||||
V5 | ★★★ Krystal Poppin
Fun Dyno variation of the Sting. establish on pinch and crimp (on arete) and dyno directly to the finish jug. | ||||
Windy Canyon Windy Canyon Bouldering Daily Dab Dose | |||||
V6 | ★★ Daily Dab Dose
roof climb | ||||
Windy Canyon Windy Canyon Bouldering The Slug | |||||
V9 | The Lion's Share
| ||||
Windy Canyon Windy Canyon Bouldering Lower Fish Head Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★ Mas Mu
| ||||
Windy Canyon Windy Canyon Bouldering Flat of Angles | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Flat of Angles
Stand start right hand flat edge at or slightly above head, low left on left facing edge. Various start variations available, (start lower right hand with wide right heel or toe, or even lower with a low right sit start). Also exit variations available - either straight up, or left-ish to arete. | ||||
Scorched Earth Boulders Pit Boss Boulder | |||||
V0 | Low | ||||
V1 | Slow | ||||
V3 | Burnt Ends | ||||
Scorched Earth Boulders Fired Up | |||||
V0 | White Heat | ||||
V0 | White Light | ||||
V0 | White Trash | ||||
V7 | Up in Smoke | ||||
V5 | Up in Flames | ||||
Scorched Earth Boulders Flame Retardant | |||||
V0 | Flame Retardant | ||||
Scorched Earth Boulders Hot and Bothered | |||||
V4 | Hot | ||||
V2 | ★ Bothered | ||||
Scorched Earth Boulders Grandall Randstaff | |||||
V4 | ★ Brown Eye of Sauron | ||||
V1 | The Grate Roof | ||||
V4 | ★★★ Grandall Randstaff | ||||
V6 | Very Strong Jimmy | ||||
Scorched Earth Boulders Bushwick Bill Memorial Boulder | |||||
V1 | Talkin Loud Aint Saying Nothing | ||||
Size Aint Shit | |||||
V7 | Let a Bro be a Bro | ||||
Damn it Feels Good to be a Gangster | |||||
Gangsta of Love | |||||
V1 | Life in the Fast Lane | ||||
Scorched Earth Boulders Shotgun Arete | |||||
V2 | Shotgun Arete | ||||
V1 | Shots Fired | ||||
V3 | All Guns Ablazing | ||||
Scorched Earth Boulders Fire in the Hole | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Fire in the Hole | ||||
Scorched Earth Boulders Burnt Out | |||||
V1 | Burnt Out | ||||
Scorched Earth Boulders Strickland Boulder | |||||
V2 | Pro-Pain | ||||
V4 | Pro-Pain Assasseries | ||||
V2 | Pro-Pain Money | ||||
Scorched Earth Boulders FyreFest | |||||
V4 | Blaze of Glory | ||||
V6 | Hot Diggity Dog | ||||
Fyre Fest | |||||
Scorched Earth Boulders Burnt to a Crimp Boulder | |||||
arete project |