Ascents in Rhode Island

so nice!

wee

Worked out beta for the start, but fingers too far gone to give it a good try. One to come back to.

Past the crux, but tired.

Fingers feel painful enough to stop trying hard for the day.

Definitely not the beta I rehearsed for the start, but it worked. Had to make two attempts to grab the lip jug.

Should give the variation with no feet on the left wall a try.

Unclear exactly where this ends, may have topped out too early.

Had a play on some of the holds.

Most of the moves feel doable.

Warming up

Can't work out the crux without feet on the left wall...

Easy compared to my first send a while back. Probably helped that I'd been (unsuccessfully) working the eliminate beta.

Warm up on Mack's traverse.

Do all but the last move.

First attempt at this, but overlaps significantly with 'Heart Crack' and 'A Single Blade', so not a flash.

Such solid hand jams.

Has recent practice worked or is this just the hand size perfect size for me?

One weird, tensiony move.

I used the pocket on the slab. Other sources say it's on.

V5 seems to be the consensus grade. It did feel that hard before I did it. However, once I worked out how to get off the ground it didn't feel that hard.

Did a couple other problems and came back to repeat. Went second try.

There are a few suggestions of what exactly this climb is. I assumed that it started sitting at the bottom right of diagonal crack, then moved left into 'Y Crack' with no eliminates.

Made a few attempts and it feels plausible.

On my second attempt I touched the hold but didn't feel confident actually grabbing it without injury at the end of a long session.

Not absolutely sure I was on 'The Ramp', just did a chalked up line that looked easy.

Rehearsed the last few moves.

Felt easy once I went for the send. I have improved significantly since I last tried this.

No problem keeping my feet on those glassy nubs.

Foot popped at crux

Pretty good for an eliminate!