Ascents in Rhode Island

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Did all the moves in 3 overlapping sections.

Worked out much better beta for moves into crux.

First send attempt.

Went very well up to the sidepull.

I confused some feet after getting the sidepull. This caused me to make too many moves and waste energy.

Recovered enough to attempt the crux deapoint. Fell after touching the hold. This was likely due to some combination of sagging hips and insufficient force through the heel.

Rehearsed the first couple of moves. There is a very small but sharp left foothold on the face, above the more obvious low one. It works surprisingly well, all the way to the sidepull.

Also rehearsed transition from sidepull to undercling. Last session's heel hook still seems good.

Also linked all moves from third hand move through the crux to wide right foot in the top out.

Second send attempt.

Went very well up to the crux deapoint. I was surprised to find myself stable enough to readjust the right heel nicely on the crimpiest part of the hold. As on the previous attempt, I fell after touching the hold. I felt that I applied better force through the heel, but it wasn't quite enough.

Right knee/iliotibial band was feeling well used after this. Fatigue there seems to be the limiting factor.

Third send attempt.

Last go of the day.

Shouldn't have even tried, didn't make it far enough to try crux.

Just one attempt today. Was good!

Did first moves and crux to warm up.

Fell going to hueco. Right heel wasn't engaged correctly.

Send.

Foot slipped but recovered.

Feet??

Very unclear that there are V4 feet on this. Did they flake off?

This was supposed to be a warm-up, but was too cold - it was in the shade.

snowee

Big move to a crimp, dyno to jug, easy top out. What more can you ask?

so nice!

Past the crux, but tired.

Fingers feel painful enough to stop trying hard for the day.

Can't work out the crux without feet on the left wall...

Foot popped at crux

Pretty good for an eliminate!

Worked out beta for the start, but fingers too far gone to give it a good try. One to come back to.

Definitely not the beta I rehearsed for the start, but it worked. Had to make two attempts to grab the lip jug.

Should give the variation with no feet on the left wall a try.

Easy compared to my first send a while back. Probably helped that I'd been (unsuccessfully) working the eliminate beta.

Super fun.

Not sure if exactly flash since I've done 'The Buddhist' already.

Realistically no chance of sending.

Also surprisingly ok. Did the first two moves and was close on the dyno. Hard moves in between remain.

Working dyno

Can make the first couple moves, but can't get heel-toe cam out without dabbing. Needs a different left foot??

Probably regressed from last session.

Only V3, but long. Lots of sharp holds.

Nice to come back to this one I struggled on a long time ago and send first try.

Downclimb, not up

Downclimb, not up