Ascents in Rhode Island

Realistically no chance of sending.

Had a play on some of the holds.

Also surprisingly ok. Did the first two moves and was close on the dyno. Hard moves in between remain.

Working dyno

so nice!

Worked for a couple hours. Feels surprisingly ok for a V7. Done all the moves now, just need to link them up.

With good beta the sit start is much better than I felt initially. Didn't do the most obvious start. Instead, use worse feet to the left. Rock weight over right hand and make first move statically.

Suspect that sticking the first move of New Direction will be the crux for me.

New more efficient beta: don't go to second undercling pinch. From the first, drop left knee on rail and go to axe head.

Working the first few moves. Have forgotten much of the beta from last season.

First few moves went easily. Couldn't make the move to the axe head. From the axe head to the end went no problem.

Feel much stronger than last year.

Trying out some of the moves as a potential future project. Most moves feel too hard for me today, but would be fun otherwise.

Fell from the top hold after the dyno plenty of times.

Most of the moves feel doable.

Feels doable.

The first few moves are easy.

Moving to the axe head took a few attempts. Will be challenging to do that and have power remaining for the next move.

Better than last time, but didn't manage the crux from the ground yet.

There are two options for the crux:

• Make the move with a heel hook on the left and a hand on the "axe head", likely without matching. I haven't done this move in isolation.

• Climb all the way into the start of 'New Direction'. With this beta I have done all moves in isolation. Supposedly this is the harder beta.

Wasn't feeling great. Dehydration? Knee still bothering me?

Stopped after losing a lot of skin.

Tried to pull on... Very sloper. Looks hard

This felt like really good progress. The only move I didn't do was the dyno to the jug.

Feels like it could go this season if the weather holds out..

The bottom didn't feel quite as good as last time, but still went. Got close on the dyno after moving to higher feet.

Ended session with a bleeder.

Now that I have done all the moves in two sections, I made an actual "attempt" at sending. I didn't do the dyno - I felt that I didn't have finger power, but that might have been psychological.

Lost too much skin to give more good burns.

Working again.

Got beta which seems to work for the big move. I need to practice it and go further right on the ledge.

Worked the top and made good progress. Did the top dyno and top out for the first time. The dyno felt easy when it finally worked.

Felt ready for send goes.

My best session yet.

On my best attempt, I went from the start to the dyno but somehow slipped from the huge jug.

My other attempts were not great. I kept falling off the second move, which usually feels easy for me.

Four tries today. Each was good - the first three went from the ground to dyno, but couldn't latch the edge.

The last go almost felt easy - everything just fell into place for a smooth send. Wasn't even out of breath at the top.

Did all the moves in 3 overlapping sections.

Worked out much better beta for moves into crux.

???????

First send attempt.

Went very well up to the sidepull.

I confused some feet after getting the sidepull. This caused me to make too many moves and waste energy.

Recovered enough to attempt the crux deapoint. Fell after touching the hold. This was likely due to some combination of sagging hips and insufficient force through the heel.

Rehearsed the first couple of moves. There is a very small but sharp left foothold on the face, above the more obvious low one. It works surprisingly well, all the way to the sidepull.

Also rehearsed transition from sidepull to undercling. Last session's heel hook still seems good.

Also linked all moves from third hand move through the crux to wide right foot in the top out.

Second send attempt.

Went very well up to the crux deapoint. I was surprised to find myself stable enough to readjust the right heel nicely on the crimpiest part of the hold. As on the previous attempt, I fell after touching the hold. I felt that I applied better force through the heel, but it wasn't quite enough.

Right knee/iliotibial band was feeling well used after this. Fatigue there seems to be the limiting factor.

Third send attempt.

Last go of the day.

Shouldn't have even tried, didn't make it far enough to try crux.

Just one attempt today. Was good!

Did first moves and crux to warm up.

Fell going to hueco. Right heel wasn't engaged correctly.

Send.

Foot slipped but recovered.

2:go, soft