Routes as trad in United States of America

An exceptionally popular easy route up the central buttress between the two arch features. For such a popular route the climbing isn't actually that great, with lots of rambly 4th class pitches to start, an unavoidable aid move, and some mungy bits as well. The climb is also quite linear, especially up high, so passing slower parties or climbing parallel to them isn't particularly easy.

1. 5.6 100ft Chimney. There are several variant starts, most of which are better than this pitch.

2. 5.4 200ft Walk right along ledge to short crack (5.4).

3. 4th 200ft Continue right along ledge.

4. 5.6 100ft Crack on face.

5. 3rd 200ft Continue right along ledge until it ends.

6. 5.6 or 5.7 100ft Up cracks (5.7), or the exposed corner further right (5.6) to dead pine tree (lots of belay options).

7. 5.6 150ft Up cracks and blocks (optional belay) then up sandy pin-scarred groove.

8. 5.6 100ft Sustained jamming to tree.

9. 5.6 100ft Easy offwidth trench to lovely cracks.

10. 5.4 100ft Blocks to A0 pendulum (goes free at 5.10c - slick water polished slab). Move left along ledge system to base of next corner.

11. 5.7 100ft Flake and tree, then step left around major arete.

12. 5.6 165ft 2 corners to belay at tree.

13. 5.5 100ft Angle up and left with tricky pro.

14. 4th 100ft Continue angling up and left on slab to rappel bolts. The rappel route starts here.

15. 5.4 150ft Exposed horizontal slabbing left to trees. Rim is 300ft above here.

Bolts replaced in 1992.

This classic route is short but sweet. It offers great hand crack action while still having plenty of face holds for the non-crack-initiated (great learning spot!). Bolted anchors easily accessed via the Dirty Chimney.

Warning: The first 20 feet of this climb offers tricky protection and have sent many an unprepared climber to hospital.

1. 100' (5.7) Up the finger crack making your way up to the obvious hand crack. Gear belay (pro 1"-1.5"). A large flake takes a nice sling but puts you in a semi hanging belay.

2. 80' (5.8) Follow the awesome hand crack up to the dual crack system, move to the righthand system to finish out.

Pro to 4". 60m rap. This can be done as one long pitch.

Well deservedly popular route. Crack starts as fingers, grows to fists by the end. Footholds at the bottom are very polished, and the opening moves bouldery. The gear placement is great, the moves are nice, it's easy enough for newbies to try and hard enough for experienced folk to enjoy. Short, but hits the sweet spot. Bolted anchors can be easily accessed via the dirty chimney.

One of the best 5.9 routes in the Valley! This stunning route can be identified by the twin crack system of the second pitch just left of the bear bins. Amazing climbing. Most parties rap at the top of the 5th pitch using double ropes. A 70m rope will need to be extended to reach on the first rap (top of 5th pitch).

One of the most climbed routes in North America: Almost no approach, 350 feet of moderate crack climbing and all day shade.

1. 130ft (5.7) Jam up the right-facing dihedral with insecure footholds on slick, polished rock. Belay at the tree.

2. 50ft (3rd class) Scramble up 3rd class to a large manzanita at the base of a wide crack.

3. 80ft (5.6) Wide crack climbing leads to face climbing. Continue up and right to belay at an alcove on a ledge.

4. 130ft (5.5) Easy slab climbing leads to a large ledge.

5. 80ft (5.6) Easy slab climbing on knobs leads to crux liebacking up a flake. Continue up to another large ledge and belay at the tree.

6. 90ft (5.6) Follow the crack up and right. Belay from cracks atop the buttress. A fun 5.8 alternate finish follows the thin flakes and broken cracks up left before traversing back right across the steepest rock directly below the summit.

Walk off descent with short 3rd and 4th class exposure. Retreat earlier by rappelling with 2 ropes or escaping left atop pitch 4.

Pro to 2".

Located in the leftmost dihedral of the five open books area, this route begins with a 4th class scramble up to a bush. Then it's two or three pitches of varied climbing with corners, cracks, friction slab, and a bulge. Be careful of loose rock at the top, and consider belaying from the trees to the right instead of the left. Walk off left to descend with an optional single rope rappel.

Super classic crack climb.

One of the most popular multi-pitch routes at Red Rocks due, at least in part, to large comfortable belay ledges the whole way. Can be rappelled on one 70m rope with a bit of 4th class down-climbing, or with two ropes.

Starts below an obvious left-slanting crack.

1. 150' 5.5 - Climb the left slanting crack, skip the optional belay at 90', up a wider crack to a ledge, then continue up the crack to another ledge. Bolted anchors are a few yards out to the right.

2. 50' 5.5. Hike right along the ledge, boulder up to the next ledge, and up gentle slabs to a steeper wall. Re-belay from here, then up steepish black wall to a small overhang, the up a left-facing corner to a ledge with trees. End on a belay off a small group of trees.

3. 120' 5.6. Start up 4th class terrain about 15' to a small ledge, climb a thin crack in the varnished face left of a small corner to a small roof, traverse left under the roof to another crack that continues upwards, and up this to a ledge with a large block on it. Belay off slings around the large block.

4. 50' 5.3. Traverse right and a bit down to a ledge with a crack above it and anchors.

5. 110' 5.6. Climb the crack, past a bolt to run-out 5.5 terrain to the anchors. Most people end here at the anchor and rappel.

About 12 single rope Rapels

Description is for climber facing the cliff

Locate the rap anchor a few meters to the left

Rap diagonally to the left towards a distinct triangular block, NOT steight down

The next anchor is to the left hand side

Rap towards the groove with the tree Do not pass the tree stop 3-4meters before.

Look left it's not super obvious but that's where the next Rap anchor is

Take care with the rope on this rap that it doesn't get caught on the trees 20m or so below. Flake it on yourself /harness.

From this point on the raps are straight forward down the face. Easy to locate, even with a headtorch if you are rappeling in the dark.

Apart from maybe rap 8 or 9 where the face becomes less slabby. The Rap is a little bit more to the left

Very good Route!

Heaps of chossy rock to look out for though

Made me feal a bit that I was climbing in the mountains...

We linked 3-4 easy

And 7-8 in a mega 70m long pitch

I would suggest not linking 1 with 2

The start of 2 can be a bit commiting, Nicer to have the belayer next to you, to stop you for decking

We aided the bolted pitch

Could have been fun to try climb it, but not fun if we wasted that time and got caught out in the dark for the last couple of pitches

Especially when you need to do 12Raps to get out Rumor has it to better Rap than do the walk off..

Starts from a tree up the same 3rd class ramp as Munginella, but after having traversed further across the ledge the ramp reaches. Or can be reached from right as well by descending, then re-ascending around the foot of the cliff.

4th class approach. Descend via 100' rappel. Pro to 1".

5.7 hand crack with V at top to ledge; move left a few feet then 5.9 fingers crack to second anchor.

1. Climb the slab between bolts. Stay calm, it really is easy.... (5.5)

2. Stellar pitch up a dihedral crack system, you should try get another red cam stuck, this pitch needs more fixed gear! Can be linked with pitch 1. (5.7)

3. A long, long and rewarding pitch, the desert paten looks intimidating, but those cutouts are just sooooo good. For a confident leader you will be running this one out. (5.7)

4. The money pitch, but so short. Trend right off the belay over lots of air. Negotiate the offwidth, look around for gear, then fire out to the right across a series of stellar, unprotected but bomber face moves. Unreal. (5.8)

Descent: With 2x60m ropes, rappel down to the top of P2. Or, with 1 x 60m rope do 2 rappels with a hanging belay half way. From P2 anchors rappel to the ground avoiding the pool below.

For the descent take care, it might not be easy to locate it especially in the dark.

After topping out you follow a trail and a bunch of cairns down. Then you continue walking down on some slabs The rap station is as you walk down facing the valley to the right hand side (Skier's-right) A chain on a ledge with usually some fixed ropes, We did 6 raps (the last 2 were short)

Do NOT go left! Do NOT rap from the tat and old rings that are on a very dead looking tree.

After the raps follow a long but obvious trail through the trees and back on the road

Starts a few meters (yards) right of Easy, up an easy right angling-corner ramp. Step right onto a small ledge, then up crack systems towards a small roof; exit on the left and finish up the crack.

1. From a small clearing with slopping blocky section which includes a small semi-detached pillar, aim for the fixed 3x bong anchor.

2. Traverse right to the bolted belay/rap anchor, the bigger horizontal crack holds gear, but it's also the best thing to use as a ramp for your feet... can be very spooky/exposed/run-out.

3. Head straight up the face, pulling the large flakes, up the corner with the tree, belay with natural pro on the ledge.

4. Go straight up from the little cave and do a balancy move to the left flake, head up the easiest path, past a 2 tree doulble ledge and up a ramp to the left up to the base of aireation buttress.

For a safer second traverse: trail a second rope or use doubles and merge pitch 2 and 3 together, only using a single rope after passing the last piece of pro at the beginning of the traverse, run this rope on the left side of the tree when climbing the chimney on pitch 3, this way, you can better protect your second across the traverse.

Difficult fingers at the start leading to a sustained wide section. Beautiful climbing.

Pro to 4.5", 2 ea. 4".

An excellent alternate start to After Six with committing crack climbing and much less polish.

1. 120ft (5.8) Hand and finger crack climbing leads to face climbing at the crux. Belay near the large manzanita.

2. 140ft (5.7) A hand crack leads to low angle scrambling to gain the ledge.

Rappel with 2 ropes (a single 70m rope may or may not suffice), or join up with pitch 3 of After Six.

Pro to 2".

A brilliant first lead or easy solo. A popular way to get reception.

A great intro to climbing trad in the Moab area. Right facing corner to a 2 chain anchor.

3 pitches of crappy climbing to lead to the most spectacular summit ever!!!

1. 35m (5.8 A0 or 5.10) Up the easy boulders (5.5). Some parties belay here with cams to reduce rope drag. Move left to steeper climbing up a thin face, 4 bolts, pull on draws for 5.8, or go free for 5.10. DBB.

2. 30m (5.8) Mud Chimney - The only real climbing on the route. Plenty of cam options plus one old manky bolts. TBB on spacey ledge.

3. 10m (5.7 A0 or 5.10) Short pitch to gain the summit area. 4 bolts well placed to pull through, climbing free it's slightly easier on the left at the top. Top out on the start of the walkway. TBB.

4. 20m (5.8) What you came here for!!! Balance your way across the unprotected walkway, with 600ft of air either side! Mantle awkwardly onto the diving board to find your first bolt. 5.7 moves up the skinny tower lead to 2 more bolts out to the right. Awkward move over bulge or pull on draws, then top out and get an awesome photo!!! The last pro is the multitude of slings/ropes, but 3rd/4th class terrain to the top.

Protection: single set of Camalots #0.5 to #3 (double 0.75 and 1 optional), some quick draws, and four to six long (24") slings.

To descend, get lowered from the summit block from the multitude of tat, then walk back to the belay. Rappel back to the top of the chimney. Then, 2x60m ropes reach the ground from here, or, with 1x60m rope just rappel reversing the route.

This route is a lot of eyebrow climbing fun. One of the classics of looking glass. The exposure is great and the rock is phenomenal.

1. (90', 5.5) Climb low angled ground past numerous eyebrows to a ledge.

2. (100', 5.8) Climb up to and then along the right angling ramp that is obvious from a distance.

3. (100', 5.8) From the belay climb straight up the slab. Crux is early on.

4. (100', 5.7) Climb straight up from the belay or alternately (what I did to bypass a slower party) traverse left onto easier slab. This route is winding and requires a lot more rope, but is significantly easier than the direct version.

Location: From the end of the approach trail, head a little to the left and look for the pale right-angling ramp on the second pitch. Begin below the lower end of it.

Protection: Lots of small and medium cams, TCUs, tri-cams, etc. Make sure you bring plenty of runners and some good stiff shoes. It seems to me like there were bolt anchors at every belay. We rappelled the route Peregrine which is the next route right from the Nose.

1. 60' (5.10b) Climb the pin-scarred right-leaning crack. Great clean aid practice.

2. Seldom climbed. Rivet and bolt ladder leads to tree with rap rings.

Belay from natural anchors.

dangerous traverse P1- difficult to protect, polished- source: Falcon Guide

Pro to 2".

P1: start on scrubby vertical arête with lots of features and a crack for pro. Follow crack past small roof to ledge. P2: Move right to steep corner crack and continue to top. Rap station is on the backside, to the right.

When looking at the East Wall, this is the obvious, nearly straight up and down, bottom-to-top crack line. When you see it, you know it. Climb the crack. Keep climbing it.

1. 130ft (5.6) Up into an awful tight squeeze chimney. Maybe a better alternative is to start 20 foot right and climb up through blocks. Belay on massive ledge with massive bolts and chains.

2. 100ft (5.8) Move across to the chimney and double crack system. Ignore the chimney on the left with the bolt (that’s “Black Sun”). Instead, on the right is a double crack system, the left crack is probably best. Climb over some loose blocks at the top to a comfy ledge with bolts and chains.

3. 100ft (5.9) Layback up the corner, the crack widens and you move into and find a bolt, the crack narrows and you’re forced out for the crux which is protected by a bolt, you’ll stem with thin footholds and gratefully reach a large calcite hold for your left hand. More wide crack/chimney above before being forced out on to the right face just before the belay, bolts and chains.

4. 80ft (5.8) The obvious line is straight up the off-width crack. However, easier climbing up right to join the North Chimney route, climb flakes up to rappel chains.

The easiest route up Devils Tower and likely the most climbed route up the tower. Newer crack climbers often struggle, frequently insisting it's severely sandbagged.

This climb is best recognized by the right-leaning pillar on the left flank of the south face.

Approach: from the parking lot, go up the paved trail and take the branch that goes counter-clockwise around the tower. Walk along the path until you encounter a pair of metal viewing tubes. Follow the obvious climbers trail until it reaches the cliff, at the base of the "bowling alley".

There are a number of variations to exactly where the climb starts, and how the pitches are counted. The following seems to be a common choice:

1. 5.5 Climb one of a number of cracks up to a bolted anchor (80 ft), sling this with a long runner, then traverse left on 4th class terrain to a tree below the base of the leaning pillar. Belay off the tree or build a gear anchor on a comfortable ledge below the tree. (Some split the traverse into a seperate pitch.)

2. 5.6 (70ft) Leaning Column -- Climb up to the base of the leaning then up the left side of the pillar to a bolted anchor.

3. 5.7 (70ft) Durrance Crack -- Climb up a pair of cracks to another bolted anchor atop a pillar. Often combined with the Leaning Column.

4. 5.6 (30ft) Cussin' Crack -- Climb the off-width to a small ledge, then traverse right and up an easy short crack to the next ledge and another bolted anchor.

5. 5.5 (40ft) Flake Crack -- Climb the flake-filled crack to an off-width finish to another bolted anchor on another bid ledge. Often combined with Cussin' Crack.

6. 5.5 (40ft) Chockstone Crack -- Climb up the chockstone-filled chimney to a steep finish over a chockstone boulder. And, guess what, another bolted belay on another good ledge.

7. There are two popular finishing options:

   1. Jump Traverse to Meadows Finish
      1. 5.8 or 5.6 A0. Climb down and right from the ledge, then traverse rightwards on a thin horizontal crack, until you can step down across a large gap to a flat ledge. Continue along the huge ledge and build a belay. (Grab the piton to make the step-across easier.)
      2. 3rd class. Hike pretty far rightwards along the Meadows, occasionally climbing downwards to a lower section of trail. A pair of pillars -- the right of which is taller than the left -- sit just right of the bottom of the Meadows rappel. Do not climb up here unless you love lichen, loose rock, poor pro, and hiding pigeons.
      3. 5.2 (100ft) Climb the chimney then easy slabs to the top.
   2. Bailey Direct 5.8- (150ft) -- There are options up and left of the belay. One is to climb into a chimney past a rotten piton and some moderate face climbing. Whatever you do, keep your eyes open for a two-bolt anchor.

Often just climbed to the rap anchor on the ledge.

Bolted Anchors. 70 m rope to rap down.

One of the best 5.8's in the world.

1. 140ft (5.8)

2. 100ft (5.8)

3. 100ft (5.8) 2&3 can be linked with 60m rope.

4. 160ft (5.8)

5. 110ft (5.8)

6. 100ft (5.6)

7. 130ft (5.7)

8. 80ft (5.7)

9. 75ft (5.8)

Descent: rap the route.

This is the generally best protected route up the slab, though still with significant run-outs, but generally on easy terrain.

Start at the left-facing corner at the most-trampled section at the base of the slab.

1. (5.0 G) Climb a short distance up the left-facing corner to a boulder and where a gentle-climbing cracks branches rightwards. Follow this crack until it meets a similar, though narrower, crack that zigs left, until it ends, then up into an area of small ledges and belay. 150'

2. (5.4 G) Climb up towards a large left-arching corner by way of a crack and speckled with white rock. Climb a short way up the corner to an old ring piton, then pull right up onto the slab above (the farther up the corner, the harder the pull right will get), then up the easy slab to a good ledge. 140'

3. (5.5 PG) Climb up to a shallow left-facing corner with a thin crack in the corner. Follow this crack & corner until it runs out, then friction up and right to a belay from several good cracks in a small overlap. 165'

4. (5.5 PG) Pull up over the overlap, then follow the right-most of the cracks up and right until it runs out. Climb rightwards to a gravel ledge below a large boulder, then up along the left side of the boulder to a great belay in a mini-fort with a flat floor and a birch tree. (Or, friction straight up & right from the end of the crack to the belay, with no gear.) 120'

5. (5.5 G) Step out from the fort to the left, and up the slab/corner until below a dark cave, and until the steep wall can be climbed up and right on good holds to a large ledge. Walk along the ledge and belay. 50'

6. (5.2 G) Walk right along the big ledge, then up over some ledge to a face with an S-shaped crack, follow the crack to a small ledge with a steep face with a vertical crack broken half-way up with a horizontal crack. Up this short face, then wander up the ledgy rock angling gently right-wards to the good ledge at the top. 150'

crack narrows from hands to fingers as you climb, then gets very thin when you approach the anchors. Most climbers commit to the awkward off width on the left wall when the main crack thins out. Gear gets very thin at the top.

Good beginner granite crack. Don't take it for granted, requires solid jamming skills to tame the grade down to 5.7 and has some thin feet. If you know what your doing though this is an excellent warmup with a nice chimney as second pitch option which is only done by every second party or so. Chimney protects with midrange cams in a series of horizontal cracks to emerge onto a short face climb to reach the anchors. The crack pitch is ice but this gets stars only if you also do the Chimney pitch.

A superb sustained route at the grade (5.7+). Very popular, due to bolted anchors, ability to be rappelled on single 70m rope, and very good climbing with generally solid protection.

Start below the left-most of 2 obvious long cracks the split the lower part of the varnished buttress left of the corner that Spectrum climbs to the roof 60ft up. This is a few yards above a huge boulder that leans against the cliff creating a tunnel.

1. Climb the left crack to an anchor on a treed ledge. 110ft. 5.5 (Handren says 5.6, but it doesn't climb that hard.)

2. Climb straight up from the anchor, then follow a crack in the wall right of the main chimney to a ledge. Up the steep corner, then right under a block to an anchor at the right end of a big ledge. 110ft 5.7.

3. Go up and right about 10ft of easy ground to a left-leaning corner. At the top, traverse left past a bolt (crux) then up a steep crack to a ledge. Then up and right to the anchor. 85ft, 5.7+.

4. Go up about 20ft to a horizontal crack, then move up and right accross discontinuous cracks to an anchor on the face. This pitch has the most complicated route-finding -- generally, when in doubt, go up or right. On the face there should be a down-arching horizontal curve, and the anchor being aimed for is near the bottom of the curve. Belay at anchors with huecos for your feet. 95ft 5.6.

5. Move up and right to a thin crack, then over a bulge and up a thin (finger crack) on a varnished face with small holds and small gear. Finish on a small triangular, down-sloping ledge (crux). 95ft, 5.7+.

6. Variant, adds an extra 75ft pitch, not usually climbed due to fragile rock and run-out climbing. Climb up passing a small roof on the right, then continue up and right to an anchor in a small right-facing corner. 75ft, 5.7.

Climb the long right-leaning hand & finger crack.

Three pitches of scrambly crack climbing up a slightly positive (20 to 30 degree) slab. Just before reaching the top-out at the end of the third pitch, the crack seam disappears and the climber must make two or three intimidating traverse moves to better holds.

The route finishes on a very large ledge with bolts. There are now 5 rappel anchors (including the final belay station) that let you rap in a direct line to the bottom.

1. 5.6, 110+ft. Climb a left-facing 3rd then 4th-class corner up towards a downward-pointing dagger of rock. Pass this on the right side, pulling a small roof (5.6) then up and right to a small stance for the belay.

2. 5.6, 100ft. Climb the right-curving hand-crack up the slab until there is a stance for belay at a widening in the crack.

3. 5.6, 150ft. Continue up the right-leaning crack until it tapers out, then a few thin (for 5.6) slab moves up to a large ledge to finish.

This is a 5.6 Variation to Bunny, which generally follows the same line except you go through the roof instead of around.

Morning shade, afternoon sun. Easy access. Sandstone is quite polished due to the high traffic, and the climbing a bit awkward in places. Make sure you look good, you'll be starring in 100's of tourist photos.

Climb follows the obvious crack on the western side, hand crack and jugs for most of the climb, albeit quite polished, it's well protected in the crack the whole way. The crux is about half way up past a bulge, some jamming required, then possibly a second crux towards the top as you're forced out left on to the face. Throughout, if you start to struggle to find the next big hold, reach high.

Three large bolt and chain belay under the summit, comfortable ledge, plenty of room for multiple climbers. It's then 8m of 4th class to the top, protected by 2 drilled pitons, it's worth belaying that for safety.

Descent: 1 x 60m rope reaches the base, you can angle your rappel to the side to allow other parties to climb the route.

1. 105 ft (5.10c)

2. 50 ft (5.11a)

Great line at Wall Street. Bring 0.5 to 3 for this one, maybe some nuts.

A Red Rocks Classic!

Approach: from Pine Creek parking lot, follow the main trail just past an old home foundation. Take a left here on the Oak Creek trail. This trail eventually forks right after about 15 minutes. Take a right on a faint trail heading to Juniper Canyon. Head for the Rose Tower, a rounded top pink formation by going into the second of two gullies. The first gully is the descent. The climb starts bout 250 yards up this gully after going over some boulders and a small creek, at a small clear beneath a left-facing, left-leaning chimney in a corner.

1. 90ft (5.7R) Climb the slab on the left side of the corner, passing a bulge (crux) and head diagonally right to a small sandy alcove,

2. 120ft (5.7) Climb the corner then move right into a splitter crack (fingers an hands) to a small ledge (semi-hanging gear belay)

3. 100ft (5.7) Continue up the crack, over a bulge and then move left into the corner. Climb the corner and belay with gear at a good ledge on the arete.

4. 140ft (5.7) Traverse right and then up a runout easy face, trending right towards a huge left facing corner. Follow the corner to a big flat area atop the column. Don’t go into the corner too soon. You can use some stoppers for your anchors here and save some cams for the long pitch ahead.

5. 195ft (5.7) The money pitch! Head up and right to the beautiful corner as long as the rope will get you. A 60m barely reaches a small ledge at the top of the corner. Save somesmall to medium size gear (.75 camalot) for the belay.

6. 50ft (4th class) Head right and up, then right and up again to the big flat top of the Rose Tower. Sign the logbook

Descent: Head north off the Rose Tower (the other side of where you came from) with 1 short exposed down-climb, then hike south down the gully (gully east of Rose Tower).

Climb the obvious jagged crack that starts in a rectangular groove with leaning rectangular blocks at the base.

Starts behind pillar that looks like it has a boulder perched on it, left of the Solar Slab Gully.

1. 5.6 40m Cracks and featured patina to a bolted belay below a right facing corner.

2. 5.6 30m Corner and crack to belay in middle of face.

3. 5.6 30m Up and right to chicken heads on arete. Step left above roof to anchor.

4. 5.4 20m Easily up to 'Solar Slab' terrace.

Starts on the right side of the base of Saddle Rock, just left of the gully, and just right of a roof about 20m up.

1. 5.8 (40m). Climb up initial scoops to a high first bolt. From there angle up and left past two more bolts, then up passing the roof on the left. Now, angle rightwards above the roof past two more bolts, then back left to a 6th bolt, then up to anchors near a large hole. This pitch wanders a lot, to reduce rope-drag issues, extend the first clip with a long sling, and the 3rd clip with a double-length sling, same for the 5th (or skip the fifth bolt).

2. 5.7 (30m) Climb directly up from the anchor past 4 bolts, then angle left to find the next belay.

3. 5.5 (20m) Climb up past a bolt to the final anchors.

Though this climb is protected only by bolts, with no gear placements, it is not by any measure a modern sport route. There are sizeable run-outs and rope-management issues that would not be expected on a sport climb.

The climbing starts on easy slab until you reach the flake & then things get vertical. There is no protection before you reach the flake but none is needed. Climb the flake using slab and other features for feet. All protection is in the flake and in the crack behind the flake once it widens. Climbing is more difficult after the flake widens and gets even more vertical. Bring doubles in mid ranges from .75 through 1, triples in #2 & 3 saving One of each for the anchor. This climb is a fabulous lead.