Routes in North Ogden

Follow right facing corner/gully on southern end of buttress. Occasional offwidth & roof portions can be bypassed.

Rack to #3

South of Avoiding the Issue identify face crack ~100ft up.

Rack: Singles to #4, doubles #0.75-#3

Approach: ~200ft south of Avoiding the Issue.

1. 30m. 5.7: Hand/fist crack through face.

2. 100m. 5.6: Navigate broken terrain aiming for buttress located on top portion of wall. Belay from large ledge with tree.

3. 20m. 5easy: Move belay to small roof.

4. 30m. 10d R: Climb through overhanging face to left facing corner left of roof. Horizontal cracks through arete leads to belay ledge. Be cautious of loose blocks & pendulum fall.

5. 5easy: Top out through broken terrain left of roofs.

Starts on Avoiding the Issue and finishes left of Pterodactyl's upper roofs.

Rack: single to #3, doubles #0.75-#2.

1. ~70m. 5easy-5.6: Navigate easier terrain until the wall steepens, aiming for north side of upper roof buttress.

2. 30m. 5.6: As the wall steepens climb through horizontal breaks toward left facing corner on north side of roof buttress.

3. 30m. 5.8: Follow corner through horizontal & vertical breaks, belaying from ledge.

4. 5easy: Continue through easy broken terrain to top.

-Variation:

Rack: singles to #3, doubles #0.5-#1

1. Either begin on Avoiding the Issue or left of Pterodactyl trending up and left through broken terrain aiming for ledge below upper roofs.

2. 35m. 5.9: Ascend right side wall toward roofs and staying right of roofs to belay ledge.

3. Move belay to below upper roof headwall.

4. 5.10a: Climb crack right of roof.

Follow low angle, broken terrain finding a path of least resistance circumventing a number of roofs. Excellent solo outing.

Rack to #3

-Variation:

Rack: Singles to #3, doubles #0.5-#2 recommended, #4 optional

1. Begin as for Avoiding the Issues & Bloody Show aiming for first ledge below roofs.

2. 45m. 5.8: Ascend face left of roofs through horizontal breaks.

3. Class IV/ 5.easy: Move belay up and north to right facing corner, left of upper roof.

4. 20m. 5.9: Climb corner then continue to topout.

-Variation:

1. Begin as for Avoiding the Issues & Nickel & Dimed reaching ledge below roofs.

2. Climb first pitch of Nickel & Dimed.

3. Continue up face left of roofs to topout.

Follows ridge between Great Amphitheater & Southern Buttress.

Approach: Follow Shoreline Trail north. Once below the ridge head up the hillside aiming toward (41.2606196, -111.9325894).

Rack to #4

One of the State's top rated Ice/Mixed climbs when it forms. Follow features up the obvious recessed amphitheater located at the southern end of Mezzanine Cliff band, (41.2613999, -111.9330353).

Rack: Singles to #3 Egress: Hike off South as for Mezzanine South Buttress or North as for The Nose.

Ascends south facing headwall immediately north of the Great Amphitheater. Named after world renowned mountaineer Chris Bonington who was part of the FA.

Rack to #3

Approach: Shoreline Trail until just below north end of Great Amphitheater. Head up hillside weaving through oak and staying north of drainage. Begin near (41.2616494, -111.9331114).

Climbs prow in the middle of cliff segment.

Rack small cams to #3, doubles #0.5-#1 optional.

Approach: Continue on Shoreline Trail to talus field below route. Navigate to (41.262574, -111.935213), a lone juniper marks pitch 1.

Located on the Mezzanines between The Nose & Timex, (41.2633059, -111.9370301).

A prominent prow on north end of cliffband. Follow broken terrain ~5.7 or less. A great solo outing for some.

Rack small cams to #3, doubles #0.5-#1 optional.

Approach: Follow Shoreline Trail to hillside below route and south of drainage. Follow faint climber trail to small rock outcrop. Class III scramble around north end brings you to start of route above (41.264623, -111.936818). Pitch 1 is identified be tree visible at top.

Climbs slabby face through 2 bolts to reach fingers-hand crack through upper section.

Rack to #3

Approach: South side of canyon before mouth. Navigate talus field passing outcropping to the south. Route begins near (41.2677134, -111.9404298).

Tackles finger crack through roof followed by hand crack through two bulges. Use caution for right of finger roof.

When hiking Jumpoff Canyon Trail this route is found on the Grey/Black outcropping encountered on northside of trail.

Shaded alcove on south side immediately before the trail impasse. "The Hangout" graffiti on wall identifies the crag. A north facing wall offers excellent shade.

1. 20m. ~5.9: Choose one of 3 start variations.

Opt. 1: 5.9+: follow right trending crack left of roof to anchor.

Opt 2: 5.9: Climbs through roof then traverses broken face.

Opt 3: 5.7: Ascend arete right of roof, cutting left on broken face. 3 piton anchor, bring #00/#000.

1. 35m. 5.10d: Continue up face to obvious crack through roof. Nest gear and crank through the roof being sure to back up pitons where possible. Top out on right angling crack to sizable belay ledge.

Rack singles #00-#2, doubles #0.5-#2.

Descent:

Opt. 1: Slung horn repel (~150ft).

Opt. 2: Down climb ridge to west on with class 4/5 terrain.

Jagged Edge forms the ridgeline comprising the north mouth of Jumpoff Canyon. It is a more popular route and provides an excellent introduction for the canyon.

Approach: As for Jumpoff Canyon passing No Name sport route. Navigate toward dark colored rock near base (41.272384, -111.940555).

1. Begin on class 3- 5.easy ridge scramble steering toward large corner with roof crack.

2. 40m. 5.4: Climb corner the continue on face right of roof. Proceed through corners & cracks to belay ledge at start of next corner.

3. 35m. 5.5: Climb bulge in corner and continue up 2 ledges belaying in horizontal crack below roof.

4. 30m. 5.3: Aim for chockstone & wide chimney finishing on right side. From atop continue on right tending ramp finishing on arete.

5. 20m. Class 3/4: Top out following right facing corner to short face eventually gaining the remaining ridge line.

Standard rack, doubles #0.5-#3.

1. Start var. 5.9: Climb south face of buttress further in canyon past darker rock band ~(41.272848, -111.939493).

2. Var. Move right under large roof.

3. Chimney Var. 5.7: Climb & exit chimney on left side.

4. Exit Var. 5.5: Stay in corner to exit.

Ascends right face of ridge.

Approach: Aim for gully between Jagged Edge & Eagle's Roost. Start near top of gully & right of low roofs ~(41.273180, -111.939364).

1. 40m. 5.8: Begin on arete, then corner, & finish on ramp.

2. 25m. 5.8: Face climbing leading to roof above left trending ramp. Pull roof, continuing on white rock face above. Belay level & right of next roof.

3. 35m. 5.10R: Traverse out on face above roof aiming for right facing corner. Top out the block then follow cracks toward left angling ramp. Be cautious of loos rock & poor protection.

4. 15m. 5.5: Head up ramp & move left around prow. Merge onto Jagged Edge near the top of pitch 4.

Top out on Jagged Edge.

Standard rack doubles #0.5-#2.

Follows corner dividing Jagged Edge & Eagles Roost.

Approach: Begin right of Bird Sh*t Crazy ~(41.273180, -111.939364).

1. 30m. 5.7: Begin on corner passing vegetation, ledges, & small alcoves to chossy ramp below rock face.

2. 35m. 5.7: Climb left facing corner then step left onto slab rock face. After slab move right following large corner. Continue through chossy terrain to to belay ledge with stacked boulders below roof.

3. 25m. 5.8: Tackle roof with break on right side. After the off-width/ squeeze slot finish on broken terrain. Belay on ledge with alcove.

4. 35m. 5.6: Head up and left from alcove on increasingly easy terrain.

Standard rack opt #4, doubles #0.5-#2.

This linkup offer quality 5.8 climbing as it traverses across Bird Sh*t Crazy, Looking Bad*ss & Eagles Roost.

Pitch 1 Bird Sh*t Crazy:

1. 40m. 5.8: Begin on arete, then corner, & finish on ramp. Pitches 2 & 3 Looking Bad*ss

2. 35m. 5.7: Climb left facing corner then step left onto slab rock face. After slab move right following large corner. Continue through chossy terrain to to belay ledge with stacked boulders below roof.

3. 25m. 5.8: Tackle roof with break on right side. After the off-width/ squeeze slot finish on broken terrain. Belay on ledge with alcove. Finish on Eagle Roost

4. 40m. 5.8:

Excellent headwall with horizontal breaks high above canyon.

Approach: as for Looking Bad*ss & shares pitch 1.

1. 30m. 5.7: Begin on corner passing vegetation, ledges, & small alcoves to chossy ramp below rock face.

2. 35m. 5.7: Exit corner onto white colored rock on right side face. Belay near arete feature right of roof.

3. 35m. 5.7: Continue up arete staying left of roofs. Belay at base of upper headwall.

4. 50m. 5.8: Finish on head wall with excellent horizontal breaks.

Standard rack, doubles #0.3-#1

Not for the faint of heart, moderate terrain leads to questionable roofs, finishing on excellent headwall above.

Approach: As for Eagle's Roost aiming for right side of buttress. Begin near base of buttress near the transition of gully to chimney ~(41.273139, -111939271).

1. 20m. 5.6: Climb face angling right on arete to belay ledge.

2. 25m. 5.7: Proceed up arete on right side. Pass through roof and follow chossy gully. Belay below next headwall.

3. 30m. 5.8: Continue on vertical head wall moving left to avoid loose chockstones. Gain angling ledge following it left around prow to belay below loose roofs.

4. 35m. 5.9 R/X: Pull through roofs with questionable rock and protection placements. Maneuver left then back right finally reaching stacked ledges. Finish on easy terrain & belay at base of upper headwall.

5. 50m. 5.8: Finish on Eagle's Roost head wall with excellent horizontal breaks.

Standard rack, doubles #0.2-#1

Reasonably clean chimney leads to chossy climbing above.

Approach: As for Nuts About Eagles, beginning further up & right where gully transitions to chimney.

1. 40m. 5.7: Begin in chimney passing 2 major chockstones. Belay from ledge below final overhang.

2. 40m. 5.8: Finish chimney moving left at roof. Var. left face with flared cracks ~5.8. After chimney follow corner up worsening rock. Belay where appropriate before reaching choss.

3. 40m. 5.6 R: Head left on ramp to ledge then return right back to corner. Climb juggy loose corner or right hand face. Belay on better quality rock above. Var. exit right gaining Two Left Feet.

4. 35m. 5.5: Finish on easing terrain tending left.

Standard rack, doubles #0.5-#2, opt. #4

Climbs left set of crack breaks located on upper half of wall.

1. 50m. 5.5: Begin on broken terrain maneuvering blocks, ledges, & corners. Tend left aiming for ledge below headwall with obvious pair of cracks. 1-2 pitches.

2. 40m. 5.6: Climb left crack then tend right on easier terrain belaying below on ledge below & left of roof.

3. 45m. 5.5: Exit left of roof & top out on easier terrain.

Standard rack, doubles to #1

Climbs right set of crack breaks located on upper half of wall.

1. 60m. 5.5: Ascend arete to a corner crack. Follow corner & climb right of roof. Belay from ledge with headwall & prominent pair of cracks above, 1-2 pitches.

2. 40m. 5.6: Climb steep right crack moving right on face above to gain ledge beneath roof.

3. 45m. 5.5. Head right avoiding roof to connect to ridge. Follow corner and finish on easing terrain.

Standard rack, doubles to #1

Climbs next major prow immediately up canyon from Jagged Edge.

1. 35m. 5.5: Begin on broken terrain moving to right side of right to corner system. Belay as needed.

2. 30m. 5.6: Continue up corner & move left onto ridge at large ledge. Belay near large boulder.

3. 40m. 5.7: Begin on boulder & step onto face. Move through slab & ridge line. Stay right of wide flake left of ridge and belay from ledge below sizable roof.

4. 45m. 5.5: Avoid roof to the right. Follow easing terrain & corner to top.

Standard rack, doubles #0.3-#1

Hike Jumpoff Canyon trail, passing the boulder blockage. Begin route on north side of canyon, ~(41.2713372, -111.9374157).

1. 40m. 5.10-: Ascend face right of south facing corner. Either pull through 5ft roof or climb roof apex at right side. Build belay above on ledge.

2. 40m. 5.10+: Move belay ~80ft up and slightly right aiming for the 8ft hand crack roof. Belay above on ledge. Var: bypass roof via broken terrain on either side. 5.5.

3. 35m. 5.6: Mild pitch on broken terrain. Head up and slightly right. Finish on ledge below 15ft hand jam roof.

4. 20m. 5.11+: Jam through roof and build belay above. Var: Finger crack left of roof through corner. 5.8.

5. 30m. 5.12a/b: Follow flake and hand/thin hand crack through 40ft Macabre roof. Pull roof at notch and belay in alcove above with piton and fixed nut.

Var 1: Climbs arete immediately left of roof using horizontal breaks. 5.8.

Var 2: Finish on corner right of roof. 5.5.

1. 5.6: Moderate broken terrain to topout.

Rack doubles #0.1-#3

1. 40m. 5.10-: Begin as for Macabre Wall Proper.

2. 40m. 5.5-5.7: Continue along left angling corner staying left of second roof.

3. 40m. 5.5-5.7: After passing roof 2 follow face or corner to dihedral left of Macabre roof.

4. 20m. 5.9: Follow dihedral to easier terrain above.

Var: Follow next dihedral to the left. 5.6.

1. 15m. 5.6: Moderate broken terrain to topout.

Rack #0.2-#3 & nuts.

1. As for Macabre Wall

2. Follow Variation corner. Once above Roof 2 build anchor.

3. 15m. 5.5-5.7: Traverse left either across face or up and over from corner. Aim for south facing dihedral near small tree.

4. 15m. 5.5: Continue up dihedral building belay on top.

5. 25m. 5.8: Ascend loose, horizontal breaks. After the moderate flake section, build belay.

6. 20m. 5.8: Finish on face above eventually gaining easier terrain.

Rack #0.4-#3 & nuts

North of Macabre Wall near, (41.275128, -111.944080). Follows Gulley to steeper section, finishes on low angle terrain. Hike off.

Deck potential blowing 4th bolt clip, pg-13.

Solid climb for the grade.

Tough campus style start and few hard to read moves. 11.d/12- may seem more accurate to to most.

Steep face climbing on pumpy crimps.

An excellent climb for the grade.

1. 25m. 5.8+: Ascend northern most, left facing corner to steep fist crack. Build belay on ledge above.

2. 15m: Follow loose corner to top out. Build belay.

Walk off to class IV gully south.

Rack to #2

Stem up middle corner using thin finger crack. 3 piton anchor.

Opt: can finish on Alzheimer's Serpent for a 2 pitch variation.

Rack to #1

Southern most left facing corner. Stem using hand crack to reach 5.7 face above. Watch for loose blocks at lower crux and runout upper face.

Walk off to gully.

Rack to #2

1. Thin finger crack leads to arete. Build belay on ledge.

2. Continue up hand crack which turns to off width. Build belay.

Walk off Class IV gully behind route.

Rack thin to #3

1. Follow corner feature through bulge. Belay on ledge.

2. Take a chimney to top out. Crack in chimney protects well. Belay from tree.

Walk off.

Rack to #3

Climbs a challenging, left angling, roof finger crack.

Walk off.

Rack thin to #1

It is unclear whether this project has been redpointed. Another Ogden test piece.

Exciting arete climbing.

Try this one out for size, short yet stout.

Unique line following small left angling corner.

Overhung with good holds.

Steeper but with good jugs.

Excellent moves on a steep headwall.

Steep airy crux.

Short quality crack with natural anchor on tree above. Descend adjacent class IV chimney. Additional undocumented & TR lines exist in the vicinity.

Standard Rack.

A highly aesthetic trad line well worth the hike.

These slabs provide a pleasant class IV/ 5.easy adventure for those looking for a mild solo romp. A real choose you own adventure expect to encounter slab, cracks, roofs, & broken terrain.

North Ogden Nature Center Trailhead.

Garner Canyon is the canyon immediately north of outcropping comprising the Nature Center Wall. Several trails intersect near mouth of canyon with slabs in view on south side of canyon. Continue on up trail or drainage and begin climbing. Starting near (41.280783, -111.940334) and moving up and left offers the most mileage on the rock.

Egress: Several egresses are available.

Opt 1: Follow ridge line to the west hiking/ down climbing back to mouth of canyon or west talus field.

Opt. 2: Hike east to gully and descend.

Opt. 3: Continue south across the top of cliff band and descend via Jumpoff Canyon.

Lewis Peak (8,031ft) is often hiked via Skyline Trail. However for the adventurous, it can be submitted as a mountaineering hike, (~6miles, 3500ft gain). For minimal bushwhacking aim for ridge beginning near (41.276167, -111.937921).

Approach:

Opt 1: Top out Garner Canyon slabs & connect to ridge.

Opt 2: Hike Jumpoff Canyon climbing the descent line for routes on north side of canyon. Once on top head north along top of cliff band to gain ridge.