Routes in Tuolumne Meadows

Pro to 3".

Pro to 3".

Pro to 4".

Starts atop Hermaphrodite Flake. Pro to 3", 7 draws.

1. 5.8 40m Sustained slab to bolted belay. Although it's well protected, some of the bolts are a bit old and manky.

2. 5.10b 40m Continue up past two new bolts (crux) to West Country. Follow this until you see the bolts above, and follow those.

It's also possible to escape up and left from the belay to join West Country, if you wish to skip the crux.

Bring pro to 1.25" for an anchor at the base.

8 draws.

Pro to 7".

Pro to 4".

Pro to 3".

Stellar climbing up a disappearing crack, then scary slabs above.

1. 50m 4th Class. Scramble up the apron from the road until you get to a large ledge below the steepening dome. The climbing starts here.

2. 50m 5.7 Easily up the left crack until it makes sense to move into the right hand crack system.

3. 40m 5.8 Follow the now single crack system. An exceptional finger crack pitch.

4. 35m 5.8 Continue up the single crack system until it disappears into the dome.

5. 30m 5.6 Runout slab up and left to an overlap (only gear in the pitch is here), then belay on a ledge just above it.

6. 55m 5.4 Several variants from here to the top, all of which are runout (in some cases exceptionally). Although there's a tempting groove to the left of the belay, going this way will incur a mandatory 40m runout with zero gear - not recommended! It's better to move up and diagonally right from the belay, which offers some (spaced) gear. Belay on low angled slab at a set of double bolts, shared with 'Great White Book' (this belay can get crowded).

7. 30m 5.2 Pleasant and better protected climbing straight up and over the overlaps above, or easier terrain (4th class) to the right of them.

Head over the back of the dome to an obvious left-trending gully - descend this.