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Routes as aid in Southwest Face

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Showing all 31 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
5.10 A3+ VI Lost World
Aid
5.10 A3+ VI Squeeze Play
Aid
5.10 A4 VI Hole World
Aid
5.9 A3 VI West Buttress
Aid 610m, 20
5.9 A3 VI For Your Eyes Only (aka Octopussy)
Aid
5.7 A3 VI Never Never Land
Aid 820m, 20
5.7 A3 VI Aquarian Wall
Aid 850m, 20
5.10 A5 VI Winds of Change
Aid
5.10+ A4 VI Wings of Steel
Aid
5.7 A3 VI Horse Chute
Aid 610m, 20
5.9 A3 VI Horse Play
Aid
5.8 A3 VI Dihedral Wall
Aid 730m, 26
5.7 A4 VI Cosmos
Aid 730m, 24
5.8 A3 VI Excalibur
Aid 820m, 28
5.11c A4+ VI Bermuda Dunes
Aid
5.9 A4 VI The Heart Route
Aid
5.9 A4 VI Pacemaker
Aid
5.8 A3+ VI Son of Heart (aka Heart Woute)
Aid 820m, 29
5.8 A3 VI Sunkist
Aid 880m, 31
5.10 A5 VI Jolly Roger
Aid
5.7 A3 VI Magic Mushroom

FA: Hugh Burton & Steve Sutton, 1972

Aid 880m, 31
5.9 A3+ VI The Shield
Aid 880m, 30
5.9 A4 VI Dorn Direct
Aid
5.9 A2 VI Muir Wall
Aid 1100m, 33
5.9 C4 VI Muir Wall (All Clean)

The Muir Wall is one of El Cap's greatest natural lines, second only to the Salathé. It boasts large clean corners from the ground to summit with moderate yet sustained climbing.

This route is substantially more involved than the Nose or Salathé but technically easier than the Shield or Zodiac.

Aid 1000m, 33
5.9 C2 VI Salathé Wall

FA: Royal Robbins, Tom Frost & Chuck Pratt, 1961

FFA: Todd Skinner & Paul Piana, 1988

Aid 880m, 35
5.8 C2 VI Triple Direct (Salathe/Muir/Nose)
Aid 880m, 30
5.9 A2 VI Grape Race
Aid 430m, 12
5.10 A4 VI Ephemeron

Parallels 'The Nose'

FA: Brandon Adams & Kristoffer Wickstrom, 28 Apr 2018

Aid 22, 35
5.9 C2 VI The Nose

On the tick list of most aspiring climbers, The Nose is a long, sustained and beautiful climb. An incredible line straight up an intimidating wall with many memorable pitches. The Nose can be done big wall style, or it can be done "Nose In a Day"(NIAD) style.

The climbing has a surprising amount of splitter cracks with many pitches of sustained hands/fists cracks. If you are aiding, it can be done with some mandatory 5.9 climbing and mandatory C2 sections. Much of the C2 on The Nose is actually quite soft for the grade due to the abundance of fixed gear and long pieces of tat which avoids some of the more difficult sections. Don't underestimate the difficulty of a summit however, you need to have many technical skills dialed, such as pendulums, hauling, lowerouts etc. in order to make it. You also need to move fast, most parties bail not because they don't have the ability to do a single pitch, but because they are moving to slow. Practice lots and move quick.

Speed Records

  • 1975 : Jim Bridwell, John Long, Billy Westbay : 17:45
  • 1984 : Duncan Critchley, Romain Vogler : 09:30 (approximate)
  • 1986 : John Bachar, Peter Croft : 10:05
  • 1990 : Hans Florine, Steve Schneider : 8:06
  • 1990 : Peter Croft, Dave Schultz : 6:40
  • 1991 : Hans Florine, Andres Puhvel : 6:01
  • 1991 : Peter Croft, Dave Schultz : 4:48
  • 1992 : Hans Florine, Peter Croft : 4:22
  • 2001-10 : Dean Potter †, Timmy O'Neill : 3:59:35
  • 2001-10 : Hans Florine, Jim Herson : 3:57:27
  • 2001-11 : Dean Potter †, Timmy O'Neill : 3:24:20
  • 2002-9-29 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:48:55
  • 2007-10-4 : Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber : 2:48:30
  • 2007-10-8 : Alexander Huber and Thomas Huber : 2:45:45
  • 2008-7-2 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:43:33
  • 2008-10-12 : Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama : 2:37:05
  • 2010-11-6 : Dean Potter †, Sean Leary : 2:36:45
  • 2012-6-17 : Hans Florine, Alex Honnold : 2:23:46
  • 2017-10-21 : Jim Reynolds, Brad Gobright : 2:19:44
  • 2018-06-06 : Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell : 1:58:07

FA: Warren Harding, Wayne Merry & George Whitmore, 1958

FFA: Lynn Hill, 1993

Aid 1000m, 31
5.11b The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe)
Aid 400m

Showing all 31 routes.

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