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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Europe Germany Allgäu Oberallgäu Klupperkartum
5- Klupperkartum
1 4+
2 5-
Unknown 55m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall
14 Holdup Line Direct Finish
Trad 20m
14 Ckinell

The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start.

Start: Just L of Melville's Cave.

FA: Paul Gillis & Norm Osborne, 1970

Trad 28m
14 Hangman

Lovely rock to start, and a dramatic exit to finish.

Start: As for 'Revolver Crack' then head R up thin crack.

FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975

Trad 25m
15 The Ghost of Melville

-ATTENTION: There can be a Bee hive on this route, take care- ( none Sept 2018) The major corner, facing the second cave.

Start: 3m R of 'Revolver Crack' up major corner facing second cave. Step left to finish.

FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Back Wall
14 Kelly Watch The Stars

The fun starting move up to the vertical finger slot directly up the wall between the grooves of Dead Ned and OC. Well protected.

Trad 10m
15 Orange Crush

The crack.

Start: 3.5m right of CC.

FA: Tod Truscott & Oscar Poll, 1990

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder
V0 V0 problem on left

Sit start

Boulder 2m
V0 V0 Juggy Arete
Boulder 4m
V0- V0 Problem
Boulder 4m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall
14 Nero

The crack requires a bit of jamming.

Start 3-4m R of the 'Spasticus'.

FA: Philip Stranger & Andrew Smith, 1966

Trad 13m
14 Tom Thumb

The layback corner.

Start 1m R of 'Petro-Fy'.

FA: Bruno Zielke & Fred Langenhorst, 1969

Trad 15m
15 Flavius Maximus

Try to stay out of the chimney, then finish up the crack on the R. The direct finish has also been done by Peter Lindorff.

Start just R of the descent chimney.

FA: Peter Lindorff, Colin Lindorff & Paul Gillis, 1970

Trad 14m
14 Roaming Knows

The nose on the buttress 8m right of 'Incontinentia Buttocks'. Start on the right side of arete, then up and over nose.

FA: Smith, Hoskins, G. Jones & Ed Irvine, 1996

Trad 8m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Pimple
15 Master Chalk

Rotten crack.

Start: Start off the ledge on the E side of the pinnacle.

FA: Chris Baxter, Tim Hancock & Peter McKeand, 1977

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls
14 Dud Day Afternoon

The topo for this route and the next few is pretty much a guess. Left of the start of 'Ddark Ddigit' is a broken orange wall with an arete on the right hand side. Pitch one follows this arete.

  1. 20m (14) Up arete.

  2. 30m (14) Scramble up left to middle of wall. Up most obvious line.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard (alts) & James Falla., 2000

Trad 50m, 2
14 A Sore Finger

Steep direct line with some brittle rock.

The vertical seam/crack on the right side of the pinnacle of A Sore Thumb, finishing up steep crack.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Pete Canning, 2008

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully Upper Hunger
15 Someone shoulda shot Elvis back in '57

See if you can pick the theme running here?

Start: 4m Right of VIMH below an obvious corner.

Up corner to roof which is swung around to the right.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Deb Sweet & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Trad 20m
15 Twelve Long Haired Friends of Jesus in a Short Tailed Microbus

Start: Continue down the wall from SSSBI57. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is an obvious leftward diagonal. Start below the right end of this diagonal.

Up to gain the diagonal which is followed until it seems to make sense to swing back right and up.

FA: Nikki Sutherland, Jon Bassindale & Greg Pritchard, 2000

Trad 15m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Bum Rocks
15 Of Moss and Men

Loose flake then lichen. Reachy.

Start: Start 1m R of F.

FA: Wayne Jensen, Gavin Jensen, Martin Bride & Greg Incoll, 1989

Trad 15m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall
14 Climb is not the correct noun

From the ledge the preceding routes finish at, up the front of the pillar, through overlap and generally terrible rock.

FA: Wendy Eden & Dan Flynn, Sep 2018

Trad 20m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork
14 I'm A Little Teapot

Takes the slabby arete just right of the chimney-gully that Asteroid etc. step out from. Take some tape slings.

FA: Keith, Tim & Fiona Lockwood, 2001

Trad 25m
15 Scylla

An excellent approach for Dinosaur and Asteroid. The obvious thin finger crack in the dihedral. Eats up small cams

Start: Start just R of 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork.

FA: Roland Pauligk & Ann Pauligk, 1966

Trad 15m
14 Charybdis

Start: Start a couple of metres R of S.

  1. 15m (14) The R crack to the ledge.

  2. 15m (14) The wide crack in the L-facing corner above the ledge.

FA: Roland Pauligk & Ann Pauligk, 1966

Trad 30m, 2
15 Hey There Little Insect

As for C for 10m then R and up arete.

Start: Start as for C.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1981

Trad 30m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Rye Wall
15 Harley's Climb

The start of this doesn't look too bad but the gully is woeful. Maybe would be better finishing up the arete on the left.

FA: Harley Burke + others, 1981

Trad 10m
15 Jungleland

On a small grey wall 50m beyond Catcher to the R of the main gully. Up to a jug at 3m, 3m R of the block at the base of the wall. Arrange small wires, make a thin move and continue more easily.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 5 Aug 2019

Trad 9m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Wittgenstein Walls
15 Two Years on a Nork in Shedway

Up middle of face.

Start: Start at the base of the pinnacle right of Two Years in a Shed in Norway.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Greg Pritchard & Richard Smith, 1999

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Serious Young Lizards Wall
14 Rat Cracker

Crack 1.5 metres left of 'Serious Young Lizards'

FA: Bert Levy & steve Holloway, 1998

Trad 10m
15 Rat Cat

Grade is a guess as none was given. Crack 3 metres right of 'Serious Young Lizards'.

FA: Steve Holloway & Bert Levy, 1998

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Marx Wall
14 Chico

Eliminate with a bouldery start between the L edge of the wall (with the yellow mini-pinnacle) and the easy crack.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 7 Aug 2019

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall
15 Retardation

The crack, moving R at overhang.

Start: Start just R of C-O at the obvious offwidth crack.

FA: Jeremy Boreham & Rod Young, 1978

Trad 20m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress
15 ScarIet Sage

Climbs the tricky crack in the middle of the wall past two bulges and a small cave.

Start: Start at tiny crack in middle of wall under a cave higher up.

FA: Lindorff, 1977

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully
14 Huldra

Takes the south-west arete of Tarzan pinnacle. From the gully, follow crackline up to grey bulging arete, which is climbed to a little summit. Belay and abseil off bolts at the top of Togrul Khan.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little & Norm Booth, 11 Mar 2015

Trad 15m
14 Scatterbrain

If he wasn't then, he certainly is by now!

Start: Start at the base of the 'Gilt Edged' buttress.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Philip Armstrong & Dave McLean, 1977

Trad 45m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area
14 Tarzan

Was 12 in previous guides! Given that the start move is outrageously hard for 13 that might have been from the time when 12 was the hardest route at the crag. Easily done in one pitch with extenders.

Start: Start at next break through overhang R of C-D-S.

  1. 15m (13) The corner and easily up ramp.

  2. 18m (13) Traverse left between overhangs, then up on jugs to top.

FA: Clive Parker & Chris Baxter, 1968

Trad 33m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall
14 Eurylochus

Start: Start at the righthand chimney in the back of the gully.

  1. 15m (12) Up the chimney and under the chockstone.

  2. 15m (15) Take the left-facing curving flake on the right wall, then traverse right and up to rap anchor for 'Lex Luthor'.

FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977

Trad 33m, 2
15 Calypso

Worth roping up for the traverse to the base, and for the traverse off L at the top to the rap anchor.

Start: Start 6m R of 'Reunion', R of orange cave.

FA: Rod Young & Simon Kenny, 1977

Trad 20m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Cassandra Area
15 Ckinarde

Start: Start in the gully R of PW.

  1. 20m (15) Chimney to the ledge.

  2. 20m (15) 'Small' crack to slopey ledge, R then back L via spooky block.

FA: Norm Osborne & Paul Gillis, 1970

Trad 40m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area
15 Smooth Journey

If it weren't for the scrappy finish and the intermittent bee problems, this excellent traverse would get 2 stars.

Start: Start as for WoI.

FA: Joe Friend, John Chapman & Glenn Tempest, 1976

Trad 44m
15 Necrophilliac

Left curving crack with a few nice jams.

FA: Phillip Stranger, 1967

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle
15 Viagra

A link-up of the first part of 'Bandwagon' into the finish of 'Passionate Tips'.

Start: Start as for B.

FA: Flaccid Mentz & Floppy Tempest, 1998

Trad 35m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side
15 Mudeye

Fairly ordinary. Start on the back of the Piccolo Pipe, about 5m L of Lemmington.

FA: Andrew Thomson & Dave Mudie, 1970

Trad 12m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle
14 Quaver

Start at a flaring chimney towards the foot of the south face.

Up the chimney to a rest. Move up and L onto a mossy face and go L past a FH to the brink overlooking the gully. Then up the south wall all the way.

FA: Ian Speedie & John McLean, 1966

Mixed trad 30m, 1
15 X Minuet

Up unprotected face two metres L of D Minor then a short crack to join D Minor.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Peter Allen, 1964

Trad 33m
14 D Minor
1 10 25m
2 14 10m

The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle.

This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall.

Can be done in a single pitch taking care with rope management.

  1. (25m, 10) Follow the crack on fine holds until jugs lead up a steepening. Easy angled ground leads to a great belay spot under the overhangs.

  2. (10m, 14) Follow the crack through the overhangs.

FA: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone & Bruce Hocking, 1964

Trad 35m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Major Pipe
14 Libretto - CS Concerto combo

This is a good combination at the grade, dispensing with the cruxy second pitch of 'Libretto'.

  1. 25m (14) As for first pitch of 'Libretto'.

  2. 25m (14) As for pitch two of CS Concerto.

Trad 50m, 2
14 C.S. Concerto

A fairly good route. Most of the first pitch is spent bridging up 'Holpyp' which isn't bad and the top pitch is atmospheric.

Start: In the 'D Major' gully.

  1. 25m (-) Climb the gully until you can climb the seam on the left wall independently of the gully to cave belay.

  2. 25m (14) Mantle onto block up a little corner and then left to arete. Up steep wall to top. Finishing up the arete is more exciting at 16 but be careful with the rock.

FA: Chris Baxter, Chris O'Brien. Murray Taylor & Keith Lockwood had previously climbed pitch 2 in, 1967

Trad 50m, 2
15 Ejaculation

Good, varied climbing. Take some large hexes for the second pitch as the cams tend to walk their way open in a couple of spots.

Start: Start at the thin crack on the right wall of the gully.

  1. 15m (15) 'Excellent' finger layback crack on right wall of gully. Gear is excellent but pumped desperate leaders have run it out in the past and taken large falls.

  2. 35m (15) Up the widening crack and left across the sickle into 'Holpyp'. Up over the roof and carry on.

FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst., 1967

Trad 50m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Diapason Pipe
14 Fiddle Diddle

Desperate for short people.

Start: Below the gully between the 'Conifer Crack' and 'Didgeridoo' pipes, immediately right of 'Woodwind'.

FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Moss., 1983

Trad 30m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Didgeridoo Pipe
14 Cod Piece

Not attractive.

Start: Start as for 'Fiddle' until the gully and then climb the wall 1 metre left of that climb avoiding bridging, stepping onto block or drifting into Didgeridoo.

FA: Hoskins, Pritchard & Wilkins, 1995

Trad 30m
15 R Fiddle

The left arete of the 'Didgeridoo' buttress (the abseil route) looks good but protection is fiddly and there's a large hollow block that would ruin your day if it came off.

Start: As for Didgeridoo/Horn Piece.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Halvard Andersen-Dalheim., 1984

Trad 30m
15 Hornpipe

This pitch right of the second pitch of 'Conifer Crack' looks ordinary but it makes for a good continuation from 'Horn Piece' or the other single pitches that lead to the big ledge.

Start: Start at a crack just right of the second pitch of 'Conifer Crack'

FA: Wayne Maher, Peter Cunningham & Peter Watling, 1981

Trad 33m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Toccata Wall
14 Tremulo

Really good climbing on the first 25 metres. With the abseil anchor the awful climbing above this can now be forgotten.

Start: At short chimney 5 metres right of Jen's Roof. Up chimney then on up the narrowing line finishing with some face moves just to the left. Chain anchor.

FA: Phil Seccombe.., 1966

Trad 25m
15 Discord

As per the Old Green Guide: "DISCORD (140'):- A sustained and technically interesting climb with excellent protection. Grade:- Hard Severe

  1. 40' Move right up the ramp leading to the base of 'Toccata' and about 15' to the left of 'Toccata', traverse left a few feet to a good ledge and bolt runner. Climb the shallow groove with difficulty to a resting place and a second bolt runner. Move out right and attain a standing position on top of the obvious square block on the smooth face on the right. Move back left to a good ledge and bolt belay a few feet above the last runner.

  2. 100' Step four feet onto the arête and go up to beneath the overhangs. Move back right to join the original line and fix the first runner of the second pitch. Continue in the same line, via a narrow awkward chimney, to the top.

FA: Peter Jackson & Reg Williams -Alternate leads, 1965

Trad 42m
15 Toccata
1 15 27m
2 13 23m

A stunning line on glorious water-washed rock. Protection is excellent despite and huge camming devices are not essential.

Take two ropes for the 50 metre abseil.

Start: Below the large smooth corner at the right end of the 'Organ Pipes'.

  1. 27m (15) Sustained climbing up the corner to hard moves past the little roof into a bottomless chimney. Up to a good ledge.

  2. 23m (13) The lovely square-cut chimney. Rap off or walk up the gully to the top.

FA: Peter Jackson & Bob Bull, 1965

Trad 50m, 2
15 Sonatine

Lovely corner on the second pitch.

Start: Scramble up the gully right of 'Toccata' under a chockstone to below an easy wall. Could also start as for 'Yossarian' but it doesn't add much value.

  1. 13m (-) Climb up to Yossarian's first belay then move right and up to belay on the obvious block below the right side of the prominen roof. You could also do the first pitch of 'Hot Air Symposium' which is just a few metres to the right.

  2. 35m (15) Difficult move up to right side of roof (RPs essential) then continue up corner.

FA: Peter Watling & Ross Digby., 1979

Trad 48m, 2
15 Wingnuts in Heaven

The rightmost of the twin cracks on the big block in front of Toccata. Walk off behind.

FA: Doug & Tara Wingfield., 1989

Trad 10m
14 Alychne

The Aychne is apparently a line of zero luminance (Talbett is an optometrist). However this climb isn't that bad but gets very little traffic. Moss and dirt aren't as much of a problem as it appears. Protection is a bit fiddly on the crux and not good on the first section of the traverse. Double ropes are very useful.

Start 2 metres right of the short corner, just left of an easy, grotty crack.

Up slab to a ledge at 5 metres. Up through a weakness in the bulge (crux) and on to a small stance. Traverse easily left about six metres with poor protection (#3 RPs) to a crack. Move up into this and then go diagonally left and finish up the left-hand crack up the steep, juggy headwall.

FA: Gordon Talbett & Peter McKeand., 1968

Trad 40m
14 Middle 8

Above 'Toccata' there is a small bowl ringed by cliffs (The Cirque of the Climbables). On the right wall there is potential for some new routes. Start in the middle of the wall on the black rock, go up then slightly right into line and to top.

Start:

FA: Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins & Chris Frost., 2000

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Rabbit Boulder
V0 Ear of the Bunny
Boulder 3m
V0 Face and scoop
Boulder 3m
V0 Crack
Boulder 3m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Leafy Quoit Lump
15 Leafy Quoit

The arete that points towards the campground. Up to obvious orange groove, R at bulge, then up.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1984

Trad 25m
14 Underachiever

It is a wonder that this line, claimed to be 30 metres long, survived for so long.

Down and right of 'Leafy Quoit' is an orange scoop whose right side is caped(sic) by a roof.

FA: Bert Levy, 1998

Trad 30m
14 Overachiever

Northern side of Leafy Quoit Lump. Follow the crack line just right of the overhang, up to the big ledge, then start up the arete, then begin moving rightwards from about half way up the arete. Finish in a comfortable, L-facing corner with a large, slingable block for an anchor.

FA: Dave Scarlett & Wendy Bruere, 7 Dec 2014

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area
14 Blobs Away

Start: The next line right.

FA: L, P & H, 1995

Trad 8m
15 Six and Out

Good.

About 20m west of Mr. Blobby there is a gully with a short line on the left wall.

Up crack.

FA: P, L & H, 1995

Trad 8m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall
15 Beautiful Possibilities

A beautiful route. Take care at the start. Start as for Jason. Tricky moves up and L onto the front of the nose, then follow the nose to the top - veering L quite close to Pedro at half height. The pro is mainly small wires - take plenty and make sure you are proficient at placing them.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1975

Trad 30m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Coyote Wall
15 Coyote

Climb the corner.

Start: Start beneath the main L-facing corner.

FA: Bruno Zielke, Rein Kamer & Peter Watling, 1968

Trad 40m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall
15 Tears For Fears

Short orange wall, step L, up to ledge, step R and up.

Start: Start 15m L of GL at L rounded sickle incut, behind a small gum tree and 3m L of a scrappy gully.

FA: Campbell Mercer, 1992

Trad 15m
14 Three Pitches to Glory

The wall.

Start: Start just L of P.

FA: Mike Law & Ben Ewald, 1976

Trad 15m
15 Two Pitches to Glory
Trad 18m
15 Tear Jerker

The big L-facing flake.

Start: Start R of SS.

FA: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder, 1976

Trad 16m
14 Strife on the Gravy Train

2 stars might be a bit generous, but should help drum up the attention this excellent route deserves.

Start: Start 6m R of DS.

Up the L-leading fat flakes with excellent gear to excellent steep face/crack moves. Walk off the gully behind the wall.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1978

Trad 25m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face
15 Puppy Love

The rounded arete to the ledge, then a poorly protected grey slab and orange overlap. If you want a boring but better protected finish try the crack on the right.

Start: Start at the arete just R of F.

FA: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder, 1978

Trad 35m
14 Ball Terrier

The original rave review has been tempered by subsequent feedback, but it can keep a star for the moment.

Start: The subtle and improbable line 2m right of Two Dogs of Empiricism.

Up, finishing on arete.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Trad 15m
14 Bitch Wank

Awkward layback start, through little overlap and up.

Start: Start: On the pinnacle right of the black slab at the front.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1997

Trad 10m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Hellspite Wall
15 Kinky Boots

Up the line and exit left.

Start: Start just L of the highest part of the wall.

FA: Mike Law & Chris Baxter, 1976

Trad 11m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress
15 Bozo

As for Z then up L onto flake and up.

Start: Start as for Z.

FA: Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins & Suzie Frost, 1993

Trad 12m
15 Mercy

Climb the line between 'Charity' and 'Hope Variant Start' to overlap. Step right 1 metre then straight up, finishing up nice clean slab past bolt. Apparently 'Great Pissing Ledges' finishes on the left of the upper slab though it's a bit hard to tell that from the descriptions and topo.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Maureen Little, 7 Jul 2011

Mixed trad 16m, 1
15 Great Pissing Ledges

Ewww, hopefully the name is hypothetical! You need to see a urologist if your bladder can't hold on for a 14m route. Between 'Charity' and 'Hope' are 2 other cracks that stop at a small roof. Up the right hand of these cracks to roof, continue up through overlap and up slab. Note since doing this climb the Mentz Tempest guide to Arapiles mentions a climb called 'Hope Variant Start'. 'Great Pissing Ledges' is a direct continuation of Hope Variant Start which remains completely independent of Hope.

FA: Deb Churches & Mark Witham, 1996

Trad 14m
14 Loyalty

Up the slabs, and step L around the top overlap.

Start: Start between H & F.

FA: Keith Egerton & Jim Grellis, 1975

Trad 18m
15 Resurrection Direct Start

Climb the face to small roof, traverse left and over the roof on good rock.

Start: Just right and up from 'Charity Buttress' is a small wall.

FA: Pete Holmes & Phil DaCosta, 2003

Trad 18m
14 Beguiled

A separate buttress 10m right of Purity and approximately 7 metres left of Heatherbell. Climb face , using the crack at 8m for gear and holds. Up to large ledge at 12m, step right 1m to gain crack with gear for the crux move to summit.

FA: Pete Holmes & Patrick Eastment, 7 Mar 2014

Trad 15m
14 It Went

Below Treachery is a buttress shaped like a shark's fin. Start on the orange rock facing into Central Gully. Up the diagonal crack to the arete then up.

FA: Peter Holmes & Tim Proctor, 8 Dec 2011

Trad 12m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress
14 Penny Lane

Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully track. Wall left of "Meanwhile…", on left end of the Mari cliff.

  1. 20m Up the front of the clean wall, keeping left of the black moss streak.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Findlay, 11 Mar 2017

Trad 20m
14 Meanwhile...

Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully Track. Start: 15m L of 'Megalomaniac'. Go up below thick moss streak then step R to crack, up it briefly then up the buttress on the L staying out of the moss.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Phil Wilkins, Steve Burke & Angela Emmerson, 1985

Trad 20m
14 Megalomaniac

Worth 3 stars in some eyes, barely worth 2 to others!

A classic hand crack with an annoying bulge at the start. When the crack opens into a chimney/gully at the top, take the R arete to find the rap anchor on a ledge just below the top (although the climbing is better if you take the shallow corner on the L arete)

FA: John Moore, 1967

Trad 36m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls
14 Next Horizon

3m right of 'Hassan' is an easy crack. Up this, then continue up face above.

FA: Rod Young, 1979

Trad 20m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
15 Greenfingers

Climb the wall L of the easy crack (Eat Your Greens) by way of large scoops, then veering L after Brown Thumb's second bolt and up to anchor. Not heaps of gear (though Nod reckons it's "well protected"!). You can go direct which is not much harder but is quite runout.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Bruce Sutherland, 1984

Trad 15m
14 Easier Access

Avoids the unprotected start of Access, to end up with a pleasant face climb. Traverse right from the start of Eat Your Greens to a crack in a scoop and climb up from there.

Trad 30m
14 Wild Mountain Thyme

Up the R crack,which doglegs left at half height. Good rock and climbing. Chain at about 30m.

Start: Start at the crack R of A.

FA: Peter Watling & Robert Sissons, 1982

Trad 30m
14 Wild Mountain Sage

Start as for WMT. Continue right and up the crack. Finish left at WMT anchor.

FA: Rhys & Dan Flynn, 27 Dec 2018

Trad 29m
15 A Weed in the Garden

The R line, 1.5m right of Babylon . Balancy start to first gear at 4m. Up intermittent crack to shared anchor with Babylon.

FA: Garry Wills & Ed Neve, 1982

Trad 26m
14 Pitchfork

Up the line behind gum tree at right end of cliff. Meander left at top to anchor of Babylon or continue to base of Skyline Walls. Enjoyable climbing but be careful of large questionable blocks at 10m.

FA: Keith Lockwood + others, 1982

Trad 40m
14 Gethsemane

Start at the far right, beneath the highest part of the wall, where a striking but vegetated line goes up and L under roofs 20m up. Bridge up the groove to the R end of the roof. Now swing up R and up grey wall.

To descend, walk up to base of Copyright and scramble carefully down to chains on WMT.

FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Baxter, 1967

Trad 35m
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Everyfin, Everyfin, Like That & Everyfin
V0 Our Doreen
Boulder
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully
14 R Castelle

Start: Start by climbing to the first belay of Lawrence (which is on 'Dunes' Buttress).

  1. 25m (14) Bad rock and bad pro. From the ferny cave at Lawrence's first belay, traverse L, then go up diagonally L for 10m to ledge.

  2. 20m (-) Steeply to ledge, step R off boulder, then traverse back L and up to the summit of 'Dreadnought' pinnacle.

FA: John Moore & Chris Dewhirst, 1966

Trad 45m, 2
Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress Western Desert
14 Ngarrinarri

Belay on big ledge 35m down abseil. Easily up orange corner, but watch out for some loose rock, to the little overhang. Through overhang and up interesting ground (slings needed) then easy ground to top.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 22 Mar 2014

Trad 40m

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