|Europe Germany Allgäu Oberallgäu Klupperkartum|
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall|
|14||★ Holdup Line Direct Finish
The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start.
Start: Just L of Melville's Cave.
FA: Paul Gillis & Norm Osborne, 1970
Lovely rock to start, and a dramatic exit to finish.
Start: As for 'Revolver Crack' then head R up thin crack.
FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975
|15||★ The Ghost of Melville
-ATTENTION: There can be a Bee hive on this route, take care- ( none Sept 2018) The major corner, facing the second cave.
Start: 3m R of 'Revolver Crack' up major corner facing second cave. Step left to finish.
FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Back Wall|
|14||★ Kelly Watch The Stars
The fun starting move up to the vertical finger slot directly up the wall between the grooves of Dead Ned and OC. Well protected.
|15||★ Orange Crush
Start: 3.5m right of CC.
FA: Tod Truscott & Oscar Poll, 1990
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder|
|V0|| V0 problem on left
|V0|| ★ V0 Juggy Arete
|V0-|| V0 Problem
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall|
The crack requires a bit of jamming.
Start 3-4m R of the 'Spasticus'.
FA: Philip Stranger & Andrew Smith, 1966
|14||★ Tom Thumb
The layback corner.
Start 1m R of 'Petro-Fy'.
FA: Bruno Zielke & Fred Langenhorst, 1969
|15||★ Flavius Maximus
Try to stay out of the chimney, then finish up the crack on the R. The direct finish has also been done by Peter Lindorff.
Start just R of the descent chimney.
FA: Peter Lindorff, Colin Lindorff & Paul Gillis, 1970
The nose on the buttress 8m right of 'Incontinentia Buttocks'. Start on the right side of arete, then up and over nose.
FA: Smith, Hoskins, G. Jones & Ed Irvine, 1996
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Pimple|
Start: Start off the ledge on the E side of the pinnacle.
FA: Chris Baxter, Tim Hancock & Peter McKeand, 1977
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls|
|14||Dud Day Afternoon
The topo for this route and the next few is pretty much a guess. Left of the start of 'Ddark Ddigit' is a broken orange wall with an arete on the right hand side. Pitch one follows this arete.
FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard (alts) & James Falla., 2000
|14||A Sore Finger
Steep direct line with some brittle rock.
The vertical seam/crack on the right side of the pinnacle of A Sore Thumb, finishing up steep crack.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Pete Canning, 2008
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully Upper Hunger|
|15||Someone shoulda shot Elvis back in '57
See if you can pick the theme running here?
Start: 4m Right of VIMH below an obvious corner.
Up corner to roof which is swung around to the right.
FA: Jon Bassindale, Deb Sweet & Greg Pritchard, 1999
|15||Twelve Long Haired Friends of Jesus in a Short Tailed Microbus
Start: Continue down the wall from SSSBI57. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is an obvious leftward diagonal. Start below the right end of this diagonal.
Up to gain the diagonal which is followed until it seems to make sense to swing back right and up.
FA: Nikki Sutherland, Jon Bassindale & Greg Pritchard, 2000
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Bum Rocks|
|15||Of Moss and Men
Loose flake then lichen. Reachy.
Start: Start 1m R of F.
FA: Wayne Jensen, Gavin Jensen, Martin Bride & Greg Incoll, 1989
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall|
|14||Climb is not the correct noun
From the ledge the preceding routes finish at, up the front of the pillar, through overlap and generally terrible rock.
FA: Wendy Eden & Dan Flynn, Sep 2018
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork|
|14||I'm A Little Teapot
Takes the slabby arete just right of the chimney-gully that Asteroid etc. step out from. Take some tape slings.
FA: Keith, Tim & Fiona Lockwood, 2001
An excellent approach for Dinosaur and Asteroid. The obvious thin finger crack in the dihedral. Eats up small cams
Start: Start just R of 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork.
FA: Roland Pauligk & Ann Pauligk, 1966
Start: Start a couple of metres R of S.
FA: Roland Pauligk & Ann Pauligk, 1966
|15||Hey There Little Insect
As for C for 10m then R and up arete.
Start: Start as for C.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1981
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Rye Wall|
The start of this doesn't look too bad but the gully is woeful. Maybe would be better finishing up the arete on the left.
FA: Harley Burke + others, 1981
On a small grey wall 50m beyond Catcher to the R of the main gully. Up to a jug at 3m, 3m R of the block at the base of the wall. Arrange small wires, make a thin move and continue more easily.
FA: Paul Badenoch, 5 Aug 2019
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Wittgenstein Walls|
|15||Two Years on a Nork in Shedway
Up middle of face.
Start: Start at the base of the pinnacle right of Two Years in a Shed in Norway.
FA: Paul Hoskins, Greg Pritchard & Richard Smith, 1999
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Serious Young Lizards Wall|
Crack 1.5 metres left of 'Serious Young Lizards'
FA: Bert Levy & steve Holloway, 1998
Grade is a guess as none was given. Crack 3 metres right of 'Serious Young Lizards'.
FA: Steve Holloway & Bert Levy, 1998
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Marx Wall|
Eliminate with a bouldery start between the L edge of the wall (with the yellow mini-pinnacle) and the easy crack.
FA: Paul Badenoch, 7 Aug 2019
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall|
The crack, moving R at overhang.
Start: Start just R of C-O at the obvious offwidth crack.
FA: Jeremy Boreham & Rod Young, 1978
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress|
|15||★ ScarIet Sage
Climbs the tricky crack in the middle of the wall past two bulges and a small cave.
Start: Start at tiny crack in middle of wall under a cave higher up.
FA: Lindorff, 1977
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully|
Takes the south-west arete of Tarzan pinnacle. From the gully, follow crackline up to grey bulging arete, which is climbed to a little summit. Belay and abseil off bolts at the top of Togrul Khan.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Maureen Little & Norm Booth, 11 Mar 2015
If he wasn't then, he certainly is by now!
Start: Start at the base of the 'Gilt Edged' buttress.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Philip Armstrong & Dave McLean, 1977
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area|
Was 12 in previous guides! Given that the start move is outrageously hard for 13 that might have been from the time when 12 was the hardest route at the crag. Easily done in one pitch with extenders.
Start: Start at next break through overhang R of C-D-S.
FA: Clive Parker & Chris Baxter, 1968
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall|
Start: Start at the righthand chimney in the back of the gully.
FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977
Worth roping up for the traverse to the base, and for the traverse off L at the top to the rap anchor.
Start: Start 6m R of 'Reunion', R of orange cave.
FA: Rod Young & Simon Kenny, 1977
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Cassandra Area|
Start: Start in the gully R of PW.
FA: Norm Osborne & Paul Gillis, 1970
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area|
|15||★ Smooth Journey
If it weren't for the scrappy finish and the intermittent bee problems, this excellent traverse would get 2 stars.
Start: Start as for WoI.
FA: Joe Friend, John Chapman & Glenn Tempest, 1976
Left curving crack with a few nice jams.
FA: Phillip Stranger, 1967
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle|
A link-up of the first part of 'Bandwagon' into the finish of 'Passionate Tips'.
Start: Start as for B.
FA: Flaccid Mentz & Floppy Tempest, 1998
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side|
Fairly ordinary. Start on the back of the Piccolo Pipe, about 5m L of Lemmington.
FA: Andrew Thomson & Dave Mudie, 1970
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle|
Start at a flaring chimney towards the foot of the south face.
Up the chimney to a rest. Move up and L onto a mossy face and go L past a FH to the brink overlooking the gully. Then up the south wall all the way.
FA: Ian Speedie & John McLean, 1966
|15 X||★★ Minuet
Up unprotected face two metres L of D Minor then a short crack to join D Minor.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Peter Allen, 1964
|14||★★ D Minor
1 10 25m
2 14 10m
The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle.
This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall.
Can be done in a single pitch taking care with rope management.
FA: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone & Bruce Hocking, 1964
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Major Pipe|
|14||★★ Libretto - CS Concerto combo
This is a good combination at the grade, dispensing with the cruxy second pitch of 'Libretto'.
|14||★★ C.S. Concerto
A fairly good route. Most of the first pitch is spent bridging up 'Holpyp' which isn't bad and the top pitch is atmospheric.
Start: In the 'D Major' gully.
FA: Chris Baxter, Chris O'Brien. Murray Taylor & Keith Lockwood had previously climbed pitch 2 in, 1967
Good, varied climbing. Take some large hexes for the second pitch as the cams tend to walk their way open in a couple of spots.
Start: Start at the thin crack on the right wall of the gully.
FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst., 1967
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Diapason Pipe|
|14||★★ Fiddle Diddle
Desperate for short people.
Start: Below the gully between the 'Conifer Crack' and 'Didgeridoo' pipes, immediately right of 'Woodwind'.
FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Moss., 1983
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Didgeridoo Pipe|
Start: Start as for 'Fiddle' until the gully and then climb the wall 1 metre left of that climb avoiding bridging, stepping onto block or drifting into Didgeridoo.
FA: Hoskins, Pritchard & Wilkins, 1995
|15 R||★ Fiddle
The left arete of the 'Didgeridoo' buttress (the abseil route) looks good but protection is fiddly and there's a large hollow block that would ruin your day if it came off.
Start: As for Didgeridoo/Horn Piece.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Halvard Andersen-Dalheim., 1984
This pitch right of the second pitch of 'Conifer Crack' looks ordinary but it makes for a good continuation from 'Horn Piece' or the other single pitches that lead to the big ledge.
Start: Start at a crack just right of the second pitch of 'Conifer Crack'
FA: Wayne Maher, Peter Cunningham & Peter Watling, 1981
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Toccata Wall|
Really good climbing on the first 25 metres. With the abseil anchor the awful climbing above this can now be forgotten.
Start: At short chimney 5 metres right of Jen's Roof. Up chimney then on up the narrowing line finishing with some face moves just to the left. Chain anchor.
FA: Phil Seccombe.., 1966
As per the Old Green Guide: "DISCORD (140'):- A sustained and technically interesting climb with excellent protection. Grade:- Hard Severe
FA: Peter Jackson & Reg Williams -Alternate leads, 1965
1 15 27m
2 13 23m
A stunning line on glorious water-washed rock. Protection is excellent despite and huge camming devices are not essential.
Take two ropes for the 50 metre abseil.
Start: Below the large smooth corner at the right end of the 'Organ Pipes'.
FA: Peter Jackson & Bob Bull, 1965
Lovely corner on the second pitch.
Start: Scramble up the gully right of 'Toccata' under a chockstone to below an easy wall. Could also start as for 'Yossarian' but it doesn't add much value.
FA: Peter Watling & Ross Digby., 1979
|15||Wingnuts in Heaven
The rightmost of the twin cracks on the big block in front of Toccata. Walk off behind.
FA: Doug & Tara Wingfield., 1989
The Aychne is apparently a line of zero luminance (Talbett is an optometrist). However this climb isn't that bad but gets very little traffic. Moss and dirt aren't as much of a problem as it appears. Protection is a bit fiddly on the crux and not good on the first section of the traverse. Double ropes are very useful.
Start 2 metres right of the short corner, just left of an easy, grotty crack.
Up slab to a ledge at 5 metres. Up through a weakness in the bulge (crux) and on to a small stance. Traverse easily left about six metres with poor protection (#3 RPs) to a crack. Move up into this and then go diagonally left and finish up the left-hand crack up the steep, juggy headwall.
FA: Gordon Talbett & Peter McKeand., 1968
Above 'Toccata' there is a small bowl ringed by cliffs (The Cirque of the Climbables). On the right wall there is potential for some new routes. Start in the middle of the wall on the black rock, go up then slightly right into line and to top.
FA: Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins & Chris Frost., 2000
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Rabbit Boulder|
|V0||★ Ear of the Bunny
|V0||★ Face and scoop
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Leafy Quoit Lump|
The arete that points towards the campground. Up to obvious orange groove, R at bulge, then up.
FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1984
It is a wonder that this line, claimed to be 30 metres long, survived for so long.
Down and right of 'Leafy Quoit' is an orange scoop whose right side is caped(sic) by a roof.
FA: Bert Levy, 1998
Northern side of Leafy Quoit Lump. Follow the crack line just right of the overhang, up to the big ledge, then start up the arete, then begin moving rightwards from about half way up the arete. Finish in a comfortable, L-facing corner with a large, slingable block for an anchor.
FA: Dave Scarlett & Wendy Bruere, 7 Dec 2014
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Operation Leo Area|
Start: The next line right.
FA: L, P & H, 1995
|15||★ Six and Out
About 20m west of Mr. Blobby there is a gully with a short line on the left wall.
FA: P, L & H, 1995
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall|
|15||★★ Beautiful Possibilities
A beautiful route. Take care at the start. Start as for Jason. Tricky moves up and L onto the front of the nose, then follow the nose to the top - veering L quite close to Pedro at half height. The pro is mainly small wires - take plenty and make sure you are proficient at placing them.
FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1975
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Coyote Wall|
Climb the corner.
Start: Start beneath the main L-facing corner.
FA: Bruno Zielke, Rein Kamer & Peter Watling, 1968
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall|
|15||Tears For Fears
Short orange wall, step L, up to ledge, step R and up.
Start: Start 15m L of GL at L rounded sickle incut, behind a small gum tree and 3m L of a scrappy gully.
FA: Campbell Mercer, 1992
|14||★ Three Pitches to Glory
Start: Start just L of P.
FA: Mike Law & Ben Ewald, 1976
|15||★★ Two Pitches to Glory
The big L-facing flake.
Start: Start R of SS.
FA: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder, 1976
|14||★★ Strife on the Gravy Train
2 stars might be a bit generous, but should help drum up the attention this excellent route deserves.
Start: Start 6m R of DS.
Up the L-leading fat flakes with excellent gear to excellent steep face/crack moves. Walk off the gully behind the wall.
FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1978
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face|
|15||★ Puppy Love
The rounded arete to the ledge, then a poorly protected grey slab and orange overlap. If you want a boring but better protected finish try the crack on the right.
Start: Start at the arete just R of F.
FA: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder, 1978
|14||★ Ball Terrier
The original rave review has been tempered by subsequent feedback, but it can keep a star for the moment.
Start: The subtle and improbable line 2m right of Two Dogs of Empiricism.
Up, finishing on arete.
FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1999
Awkward layback start, through little overlap and up.
Start: Start: On the pinnacle right of the black slab at the front.
FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1997
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Hellspite Wall|
Up the line and exit left.
Start: Start just L of the highest part of the wall.
FA: Mike Law & Chris Baxter, 1976
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress|
As for Z then up L onto flake and up.
Start: Start as for Z.
FA: Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins & Suzie Frost, 1993
Climb the line between 'Charity' and 'Hope Variant Start' to overlap. Step right 1 metre then straight up, finishing up nice clean slab past bolt. Apparently 'Great Pissing Ledges' finishes on the left of the upper slab though it's a bit hard to tell that from the descriptions and topo.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Maureen Little, 7 Jul 2011
|15||★ Great Pissing Ledges
Ewww, hopefully the name is hypothetical! You need to see a urologist if your bladder can't hold on for a 14m route. Between 'Charity' and 'Hope' are 2 other cracks that stop at a small roof. Up the right hand of these cracks to roof, continue up through overlap and up slab. Note since doing this climb the Mentz Tempest guide to Arapiles mentions a climb called 'Hope Variant Start'. 'Great Pissing Ledges' is a direct continuation of Hope Variant Start which remains completely independent of Hope.
FA: Deb Churches & Mark Witham, 1996
Up the slabs, and step L around the top overlap.
Start: Start between H & F.
FA: Keith Egerton & Jim Grellis, 1975
|15||★ Resurrection Direct Start
Climb the face to small roof, traverse left and over the roof on good rock.
Start: Just right and up from 'Charity Buttress' is a small wall.
FA: Pete Holmes & Phil DaCosta, 2003
A separate buttress 10m right of Purity and approximately 7 metres left of Heatherbell. Climb face , using the crack at 8m for gear and holds. Up to large ledge at 12m, step right 1m to gain crack with gear for the crux move to summit.
FA: Pete Holmes & Patrick Eastment, 7 Mar 2014
Below Treachery is a buttress shaped like a shark's fin. Start on the orange rock facing into Central Gully. Up the diagonal crack to the arete then up.
FA: Peter Holmes & Tim Proctor, 8 Dec 2011
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress|
Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully track. Wall left of "Meanwhile…", on left end of the Mari cliff.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Findlay, 11 Mar 2017
Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully Track. Start: 15m L of 'Megalomaniac'. Go up below thick moss streak then step R to crack, up it briefly then up the buttress on the L staying out of the moss.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Phil Wilkins, Steve Burke & Angela Emmerson, 1985
Worth 3 stars in some eyes, barely worth 2 to others!
A classic hand crack with an annoying bulge at the start. When the crack opens into a chimney/gully at the top, take the R arete to find the rap anchor on a ledge just below the top (although the climbing is better if you take the shallow corner on the L arete)
FA: John Moore, 1967
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls|
3m right of 'Hassan' is an easy crack. Up this, then continue up face above.
FA: Rod Young, 1979
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall|
Climb the wall L of the easy crack (Eat Your Greens) by way of large scoops, then veering L after Brown Thumb's second bolt and up to anchor. Not heaps of gear (though Nod reckons it's "well protected"!). You can go direct which is not much harder but is quite runout.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Bruce Sutherland, 1984
Avoids the unprotected start of Access, to end up with a pleasant face climb. Traverse right from the start of Eat Your Greens to a crack in a scoop and climb up from there.
|14||★ Wild Mountain Thyme
Up the R crack,which doglegs left at half height. Good rock and climbing. Chain at about 30m.
Start: Start at the crack R of A.
FA: Peter Watling & Robert Sissons, 1982
|14||Wild Mountain Sage
Start as for WMT. Continue right and up the crack. Finish left at WMT anchor.
FA: Rhys & Dan Flynn, 27 Dec 2018
|15||★ A Weed in the Garden
The R line, 1.5m right of Babylon . Balancy start to first gear at 4m. Up intermittent crack to shared anchor with Babylon.
FA: Garry Wills & Ed Neve, 1982
Up the line behind gum tree at right end of cliff. Meander left at top to anchor of Babylon or continue to base of Skyline Walls. Enjoyable climbing but be careful of large questionable blocks at 10m.
FA: Keith Lockwood + others, 1982
Start at the far right, beneath the highest part of the wall, where a striking but vegetated line goes up and L under roofs 20m up. Bridge up the groove to the R end of the roof. Now swing up R and up grey wall.
To descend, walk up to base of Copyright and scramble carefully down to chains on WMT.
FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Baxter, 1967
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Everyfin, Everyfin, Like That & Everyfin|
|V0||★ Our Doreen
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully|
Start: Start by climbing to the first belay of Lawrence (which is on 'Dunes' Buttress).
FA: John Moore & Chris Dewhirst, 1966
|Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress Western Desert|
Belay on big ledge 35m down abseil. Easily up orange corner, but watch out for some loose rock, to the little overhang. Through overhang and up interesting ground (slings needed) then easy ground to top.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 22 Mar 2014