Australia • Trad climber Stream event
Matt Clark onsighted a route and climbed 3 other routes at Orroral area. • discussed 10 weeks ago
Onsighted a route, dogged a route and ticked 2 routes.
20 ★★ Open Season 20m — Classic
Saweeeettt climb, really varied jamming, thinner than expected, but super enioyable. Back to back sends even better 🤙 — with kate
22 ★★★ Julius Caesar 20m — Classic — Suggested grade 23
Fluffed the crux for the onsight, didn't have the fight in me today! — with kate
One Day Hero started this discussion 10 weeks ago.
It gets dramatically easier with mileage and sneaky tricks. Chuck a few more laps and you won't even be working in the "pumpy bit".
I think it is clearly easier than Corvus and Scaramouche.
Matt Clark replied 10 weeks ago.
I'd say I probably can't be commenting too much on grades in the low to mid 20's, as I haven't climbed heaps around, but have sampled allot of CBR granite of late. I'd say this is harder than scaramouche, the start is harder, then into crux which is for sure harder, then jams / technique to the top, also harder/ more insecure topout than scaramouche. My hands are pretty much perfect for this climb too, so bearing that in mind...
One Day Hero replied 10 weeks ago.
Just give it some time. I once thought the same, but JC got easier whereas Scaramouche really didn't. Grade is given for best sequence, not "onsightability".
There are some really sneaky tricks!
22 ★★★ Julius Caesar 20m — Classic — Suggested grade 23
Stoked to get all the moves on this one second shot, keen for next session! 🤙 — with kate
20 ★★ Open Season 20m — Classic — with kate.