Cameron H updated a route at White Rock Conservation Area. • 2 • discussed 22 days ago
Updated 1 route.
Sit-start under the wave feature, on the RH side of the arete. Energy draining moves on pockets and slopes, lead up into the V5’s committing top out. The must do of Slab Land.
27/4/24 - The entire first hold came off, making the start much harder.
Alexander Jones started this discussion 23 days ago.
Not again!
Cameron H replied 23 days ago.
Yeah I would have picked other holds to snap off on this one, the first seemed solid until it wasn't. I think it's still doable and much harder now, keen to see someone strong do it
Cameron H replied 23 days ago.
Or can just start on the second hold, but I think that move is also harder now
Gus Mckelvie replied 23 days ago.
Hey Cameron, do you have any photos of what the holds look like now?
Cameron H replied 22 days ago.
Hey, sorry didn't take any. I only had 3 goes maybe on it before the break so i don't remember what it was before that well, but essentially the whole first hold came off. You're now left with a left hand wide pinch with a shallow 3 finger slot and nothing for the right hand. Very hard to pull on the LH hold so i was starting with right hand on a crimp further right than the original start, but i couldn't get back to a position to make the big launch left.
Brosnan Degenaar replied 22 days ago.
White Rock Conservation Area - image-1714569093160.jpg
White Rock Conservation Area - image-1714569111065.jpg
Brosnan Degenaar replied 22 days ago.
I prapose a new start, left in the slot crimp. Right on a slopey side pull around the corner.
Doesn't make sense trying to start as original.
Looks to be a completely new and way harder sequence with 2 extra holds that were never needed and some heel hook action the way I was trying it tonight. Keen for the resend.
Cameron H replied 21 days ago.
Agreed! I couldn't release the heel but I suspect it'll go that way