Voies dans Sydney Metropolitan pour la cotation selectionnée

As for Split Peas for 2 or 3 moves, then traverse L via 2 good pockets/slots, joining Hermit's Hovel at mid height. Nice.

Jump up to holds on top of nose 4m left of previous climbs. Traverse break right, then up arete, and straight (as for end of So Natural).

As for Side to side, but continue on through The Change Up. Tiring.

Start in the cave with feet at the back wall and hands on the undercling rail. The bottom ledges in the back of the cave are out. Work the line between Side To Side and Back To Front using toe hook(s) in the start-hold underclings, and make your way to the nose. Gather your energy and do The Change Up all the way to the finish. Pumpy and endurance sapping

Highballish extension to My Julie. Mantle up nose and then step up right onto airy face without using left face. Named after the huge rock that pulled as first ascentionist pulled over the very top. The rest of the rock seems alright though

Instead of finishing on nose feature, mantle up and head directly out up licheny face.

As for Side to Side in big hold. Move out to next undercling rail. Then left to jugs, finishing on nose.

We like to take the party all the way. Traverse the whole palace. Start at same jugs for S2S, To my lichen etc with feet on shelf below jug. This climb is to use only the roof no low feet. There's a great rail so live up the toe hooks. Run hands along the rail until coming to the features of My Julie, Side 2 side and My Lichen. From here cross through the ceiling pinches towards the other side of what I will call the bowl of the cave (Open ceiling section where you can look upwards). There is a really nice sloper jug left of the horn where you'll want some rest. Grab a heel hook to and take few seconds. From here continue left and high to a finger rail above what is a very flaky shelf. Please take care of this shelf it's beautiful yet brittle. You may use feet on it but select the thicker corners of the shelf. Traverse along this finger rail until passing the flaky shelf and top out between the two features on low roof. Pray for your skin.

Rock up. Look at Tortuga to the left of this line covered in moss thinking wtf is this. See some pretty cool looking mono pockets. Brain says shove your finger in there cam it from a left hand lock off gaston to a heinous off camber two finger sloper for the grade. Maintain lock left hand in gaston, raise left foot high to break in wall below left hand and effectively pump to high left hand jug. Feels fucking great. Top out to see this wicked looking tree. Life's good.

Endurance traverse starting from side to side jug. Pre requisite climb for Gladys. Topo says it all

Start on low left jug and gaston crimp out on right. pop up to rail and then out. Funky First Move Tom Bes FA

Straight up to the left of Side pull Sally. Sit start in small crimps.

Sit start on with two hands on sidepull pinch. Go right into finish of Heel Toe Tommy.

Sit start directly under low roof on crimps. Use toe hook to gain good break then use heels and toes on right side to gain top of bulge. Then straight up. Burly Tom Bes FA

Sit start with left hand on the hold just right of the crimp start of Shorties Love Crimps, right hand on low rail. Pop up to the thin sidepull and up as for Worst Ladder Ever. Thin, technical.

Start on little scoop crimp—go up through slopers to top. Bottom ledge and everything on Back Alley Blowout and Back Alley Beauty is out.

Start deep under the ledge on crimpy jug and work out under the roof using small crimps to the big jug on lip. Then move up as for Runnel of Love, but use green side pull to head left around the bulge to flat ledge on the other side of bush. Finish matched on hold left and up a bit of this as for Sticky Brush.

Start on thin tight crimps low in the back of cave with feet only on the same block the crimps are on (not the low slanty rock). Reach back to sideways leaning rail in roof. Slap out to lip and head up through small breaks to gain ledge just below the top. Finish here with feet on ledge for full tick. Jump off.

Start on thin tight crimps low in the back of cave. Feet up and reach back to sideways leaning rail in roof. Gain lip and move up and right through pockety breaks and finish on the blackened victory jug. Jump off.

Start as TBCM but go directly up and mantle without the use of the undercling and right heel hook.

A great pocket route. Sit start on big right-hand pinchy pocket and low left pocket. Move up into small pockets, FA found a stacked mono worked best, gain sidepull and head straight out through crack and jutting rocks. Tom Bes FA

Start as Fingers Like Legs. Reach out to the slopers and make your way across to the slight break on the lip. Top out.

Pocketed wall 5m left of Black Ripple with good cams and an optional sideways 6 rock on the crux.

Huge dino from the start holds to the lip, or static it with a bat hang.

2024 update: A recent storm broke the left pinch. This means the dyno got way bigger and harder. The problem itself is still be possilbe, but the grade will be way harder than v3.

Orirginal: Match start with bad feet, Deadpoint to a pinch then dino to the top.

Sit start low. Located just below the Black Arete block. A lowball boulder following the sloper edge of a mini roof.

Start on the diagonal small flake between two small pockets.

sit / crouch start on opposing slopers. Up and left to join previous line to top out

Sit start on pockets.

Rad !!

When you reach the slopey lip on the bright side, move right to the big knob and mantle through the scoop. Alex Stokes

Keep going right.

Up the flake to the top and mantle away.

Start: Sit M.G Chino

Up the crimps between You Go Slow and You Go Slopia without using any holds on the arete or the big edges out left.

Left of 'C?', up the streak of lichen.

Start on flake then pocket and up to slot and mantle over.

Start: Sit

Sit start on right side of arete then up to pocket to join the rest of the problem. Worth Doing

Start: Sit

Starting with two crimps in between 'A' and Double Agent, with foot in small hole at the bottom of the rock, crimp up to finish and walk out.

A truly low start - in the good pocket barely off the ground. Straight up.

Start with your left hand in the high pocket. Reach a good rail and do some funky footwork then straight up left of the scoop.

David M

Mantle into the bottom of corridor then delicately straight up.

Probably gonna need some after this. Start right of burnt tree, past the obvious break. Probably easier for the tall.

Hallelujah, I believe... undercling the big feature, then praise the lord and grab the good edge above.

Phillip Booth | Mauricio Chino

Up the concavity just right of 'Sloper-Dan Milosevic'. Mantle into left undercling then all the way to the rail then over. More sustained and committing than it looks.

Not worth the extra effort!

Start: Sit

Pinch the plate, paste your feet and reach around bulge to crimp to join I10.

Sit start low in the chalked break on jugs then into the vertical seam, contort yourself (unless short) then up and slightly left to top out.

BBB

Up the arete with the awful landing. High but the crux is down low.

It helps to be 6'4' for this one! Up good holds to scary finish.

Up to breaks then long throw to one of the three knobs and tough mantle.

Start: Sit

Slap to crimps and then long move to rounded hold and press it out.

Start: Sit

Climb the left side of the'fish' arete using anything to a tricky top.

Start: Sit

Stand start with left hand on the slopey edge and right hand in a thin slot. Blast straight up via the handle bar jug and continue up to top out.

Phillip Booth

From the smaller holds up and then topping as per Mr Big

Start in the cave on slopers/crimp to the left of the AWOL start ledge. Dyno from here straight out the gap to the jug rail. Top out as for AWOL.

Mauricio Chino

Start on lowest jug and then long moves staying right of AWOL.

Start: Sit

Mauricio Chino

Start on first jug of Gallipoli and traverse left through crimps and pockets to big undercling of Warlayirti and continue across pockets to finish up Lardy Lips.

Start: Sit

Difficult start to left and right hand bear hugging pockets, wrestle a while then finish through the mud.

Up arete and through scoop.

Up arete to tricky finish.

Start: Sit

Tricky first move to chickenhead and mantle.

Start: Sit

Big pocket to the big jug just beside the large tree with a pretty bad landing.

From the jug at the far left corner of the cave move technically up to the slopey ramp and over.

Eson Zhao

Cool moves out the roof to a pocket and just match on the rounded top. DON'T be stupid and top out like Tim or you will understand how this problem got its name!!!!

Start: Sit

Traverse out under the lip and mantle onto the top where you can.

Start: Sit

Start on same pocket as B4 but go right this time.

From the big knob up and left

Classic prow with a tough move to finish. First ascent is assumed to be the idiot that put the bolt near the finish! Sit start.

Start as far back along the roof as you can and bust your way along the pinches and jugs (has been done without the big footholds down right but why bother?). Sit start.

Pull onto the lip, move left hand to a slopey dish then do a big move to the break. Keep climbing up via some protruding holds to finish on the big jugs in the roof.

To the right of 'Frankenstein' is a big highball slab. 'The Trance' follows a rightward-leaning faint seam to the top

Climb under the peak to about three quarter boulder height, run out of feet and bail to the arete.

Left of 'Poltergeist', start in the corner, go up and leftish

Stand start on the arete and climb it on its left side.

Climb the fantastic overhung arc up the slab. Just enough holds to be climbable. Serious unprotected climbing at an unreasonable height. One of the best lines in Sydney.

Potentially a horrendous landing.

Short and tough stuff off the layaway in the gully.

A lowish traverse from the right arete over to Come Fly With me, then up.

From the low flared hole, make a tough first move then trend left to finish.

Start low on the big hole and move powerfully up via the slopey pocket.

Vicious! Off the tiny crimps left of the tree.

Two big burly moves. Jump start from the broken edge (just right of the arete) to the jugs, then pull hard for the top.

Up the arete of Dave's Butt, finishing over right.

A shortish arete with some immaculate climbing. Technical, balancey and a brilliant classic. Stay on the right side.

Short technical and committing climbing up the seam.

Sit start as for “Kenneth the Menneth” but go directly up to a tricky mantle. Meedu

Tackle the rounded roof right of the main overhang.

Sit start down in cave. Big moves underneath to lip and up the right side of the face via good jugs. Obviously, the block at the back of cave is NOT in.

Stand start on pockets and sideways dyno to sloper/sidepull. Takes skin. The bottom ledge is in.

Start as for Cheap Tart but head straight up the scoop.

Stand start on the ledge, head up via pocket, top out right over the horn.

Steep start up face just before start of cave.