Vie in Africa del grado selezionato

Solo up the left streak.

This route has it's hand up for best line in the cave. It's definitely got some of everything. If you can climb this grade, you should definitely get on this.

Sit start with an awkward left hand gaston edge and a shallow right hand pinch. Use bad feet to make a big reach up and left to a sloping edge. From there climb the arete and top out. The sit is the most natural start, but you can stand start on the same holds in a lieback with a high foot for a V5, or start one move in at the sloping edge for a V3. This problem is on the obvious steep blunt arete on the left of the two adjacent boulders when facing them from the trailhead

Start a few meters right of Slaughterhouse 5. pre-clip 2nd draw to avoid awakward fall under the roof.

The second should have a back rope for the first 9m. At the right-hand end of Upper Cliffs is a prominent chimney. This superb technical route starts just left of this feature, below a slab, Gain slab easily and traverse left to corner (bolt). Swing around left edge and ascend face above (crux). On up steep rock (bolt), to a final belay bolt. Up easily to top or abseil off bolt.

Start as for Bloody Mary but climb out right with a difficult mantle. You can walk down through a small gulley / valley on the left side of the rock.

7c crux, 7a obligatory

See here: http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200029800/Africa-Kenya-Ndoto-Mountains-Poi-East-Face-True-At-First-Light Downgrade proposed by Slovenian team that made the second ascent in 2003, to 7C: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP03/climbing-note-jeran

The very thin crack that is right of trader Vic's as you enter the gorge. Climb up on tiny holds and tiny wires (preplaced for fa) to arête then easier ground to top

Climb the second thin crack and wall to the left finishing up easy ramp. Was done with preplaced long runner.

From sentry box climb crack and wall to left following diagonal seam left over bulge. Up into hanging corner and traverse right onto head wall following crack. Up to shared anchors

The direct start to A Sudden Loss of Cabin Pressure.

Belay from ledge. Climb up right to large rail then diagonally left along crack / rail and then climb straight up the headwall.

Superb climbing with an airy finish

Climb either the first pitch of Daddy Long Legs or Redback to reach the peg stance.

From the left side of the peg stance, climb straight up for about 8 meters to gain a rail under a small overlap. Climb past a rather useful pocket and pull through the next overlap (just left of Redback anchor) to another rail. Place good gear in this rail below the vertical seam on the headwall. Gain this seam boldly (but safely) from the left and follow it to the anchor for Daddy Long Legs. A 0.4 camalot is useful for the last section.

Belay from ledge. Climb up right to ledge then move right and climb up slightly left to large rail and continue straight up the headwall.

Climb the roof crack

Climbs the beautiful white face between David And Goliath and Uber Huber left of the Africa Crag nose. From the left end of the Upper Africa Ledge, traverse under the Africa Crag nose, climb up 6m to a ledge, and walk left to where the ledge becomes a crawl under a low roof.

1. 30m (29) Start at the left end of the ledge where one can still stand upright. Climb the shallow corner tending slightly left as it steepens. Head towards the obvious, thin crack through the widely spaced rails above. Climb this and continue up another 5m to a hanging belay at the big rail below the narrow roof at the same level as the huge roof to the right. Probably a couple of grades easier if one is tall enough but this still awaits confirmation.

2. 20m (26) Start up a short, vertical crack to a big undercling. Move right to a good layback hold and then up past a couple of flakes and a rail to another rail at a small roof. Traverse left to the arete. Do a couple of moves up to a peg (shared with David And Goliath) and then left to a hanging stance at the base of the big roof flake of Africa Bust Up.

3. 40m (17) Finish by doing the top of Africa Bust Up. Climb the flake through the roof and up to a big ledge (optional stance). Continue up and right through some vegetated terrain to a huge ledge from where one can scramble to the top.

Crux pitch can be aided on #3 cam, bringing grade down to 23, A1

Start as for Wolfgang, and then follow the line of bolts and seam up the wall to the anchor. Some trad gear is also required to protect the route.

Start with left hand on undercling, boulder up and right then do a long move up to crimp and climb up to ledge. Climb the overhang wall, first on good holds then some dynamic final moves to finish.

Start in the easy dihedral and climb out left. Big dyno to a jug in the roof and top-out

No anchors

No lower-offs, rotten rock, top-out

This is a 15 bolt sport route on the SW arete of the Mouse.

'Delete Button' onto 'Yankee Rose'.

Start as for Puppy Love then after the 3rd bolt break right up the middle of the buttress. Has a bit of everything.

Start as for the Beta Master but after the first bolt continue straight up the face. The technical crux is at the third bolt but the last moves may feel impossible 0n a red point attempt. This is a powerful and sustained route that is hard from start to finish. It is particularly strenuous for the vertically challenged.

Crimpy and sustained with a couple cruxes.

The line on the slightly overhanging orange face. Sustained with a stopper crux.

A super powerful and bouldery start leads into the sustained climbing of Vampire. This route sees few repeats.

Energy Project 29/30

start by deadpointing the smooth face on finger pockets

Right hand route, common anchors with Ninja Berber

P1:7b P2:7c

Elad’s first contribution to the wall starts just below the graffiti. Before setting off, try asking yourself if you’d rather climb a Girogis or drink a Giorgis.

Up to the level of Rapscallion La Codge, use its chains to lower off. This route is manufactured.

Video: Matthew Hill

Face/slab to the left of "Imagine".

Starts from the ground not from cave. T-Pex direct. Much better from the ground. Don’t think it should ever be climbed from cave!

📹 Christo van Zyl

📹 Video

Topo and Info

Beta video by Oan De Waal

Video: Matthew Hill

Topo and Info

Climb the scooped face up the middle.

Follows an overhanging line up a series of pockets. Started in 2003.

Be crowned the cutloose king, or find a way to finesse the roof sequence and keep your feet on the rock. A fun line with a surprising amount of jugs through the mega-roof. Classic.

A really hard start and a technical mid-section. Originally opened, as Maelstrom, by Andrew Pedley, but after a major break on the route it was reopened by Brian Weaver.