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Poor pro. The right side of the cave to a sickle flake, then left.

Start: Below the R side of Melville's Cave.

Bring some painkillers.

Starts in the second cave (Nick Cave) through the obvious weakness in the roof with one bolt.

Fun roof climbing, past a slightly spooky block.

Starts in Nick Cave, on the right hand side past two bolts and finishes up headwall at a sling anchor.

Steep crack 6m left of 'Sickle' to break, then move R and up past a bolt, onto easier ground.

Start up 'Slip Knot', then left across 'Sagittarian' to the arete, and a hard move up R to jugs.

After the crux on 'Little Thor', continue straight up instead of scuttling off left. Take a bolt bracket.

Bouldery crux. Up crack 2m left of 'Problematic' to bulge and bolt. Onwards.

The short bulging crack on the right-hand side of the north-west-facing sheer orange wall.

Follow the wide crack the whole way up.

A miniscule direct middle to Oogie Boogie. Straight under the DRB anchor.

Starts at the same corner as for Popeye, then steps up and right to a higher V-corner. Pass the bulge using the big pockets, then higher to where the angle eases. From here you can either traverse far left (to 'The Wizard of Id' abseil station), or veer right up the dirty weakness (to 'Vogon Destructor Fleet' abseil station).

Start right of Asteroids, head up to small V in overhang below bolts. Follow bolts through bulges, then 2 bolts trending right through head wall to shared anchor with 'Hyperspace Bypass'.

Up short corner 2m right of 'Vogon Destructor Fleet' to bolts, then up right line of bolts in head wall, finishing left to shared anchor with VDF.

Shallow corner then R through bulges.

Start at bushes R of 'Asteroids'.

Long moves between good holds. Start direct. Size 3 Camalot handy. Finish right onto the arete.

Start on arête up and left past bolt up to break 3cam then straight up to top of head wall small wires, then finishing out right on arête and up to high anchor

Start at the arete just L of 'Christian Crack'. Up the corner on the arete, trend right past FH, before landing on the ledge. From here you work your way back right, and the theory is that you finish up the arete, but inevitably the holds lead you further right, such that it feels contrived to avoid finishing up 'Christian Crack'.

A low bolt then try not to die above that.

Start: Start between 'Spasticus' & 'Nero'.

Caveat emptor!

Start: Start in the cramped gully, up L of 'Hunger'.

Struggle up the good line.

Start: Start below the obvious grey wall just before the gully narrows below crack that widens.

Scary face with stacked blocks, then wall and arete.

Start: Start 2m R of LF.

Slab just L of small overlap then L to arete.

Start: Start 3m R of the bumcrack.

Unprotected black streak, then corner.

Start: Start ~20m R of ALG.

Pull through the start of 'Luxury Item' then L along the horizontal line to the arête. Up the arête past a bolt to a ledge and double glue-in lower-off anchor.

Fiddly pro initially. Step R at 15m to find the rap anchor above 'King Rat'. Apparently the "awesome" continuation up the chossy headwall is yet to be done - knock yourself out.

Start: Start beneath the grey wall which separates 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork and Right Fork.

Climb Glory Rodent until through the crux. Traverse L to jug on arete and good medium wire above. Climb arete direct, watch out for rope drag or use doubles. Extra grade just for the extra effort required... it's not really any harder than GR.

The awesomely steep line is made easier by a few faceholds.

Start: The first steep line you get to on the L wall of KRGRF.

The rotten flake then the bulge to pull R into the flake, belay on R. Carrot has been replaced by a bolt

Start: Start R of KR.

Straightens out and significantly improves Kookenhagen. Easily up the line for a few metres then pull up left around the overlap past a bolt runner and up the line above (Kookenhagen stays lower and keeps traversing left).

Sustained face and crack with good wires.

Start: Start 3m R of K.

A "V", then a sickle. Dodgy rock and gear. Not worth a star.

Start: Start R of MW.

Fingery moves. The original crap bolts were replaced in 2003.

Start: Start R of FB, beneath the huge chockstone above the gully.

Go straight up, it's hard to get the pro in.

Straight up well protected wall. Start 1m R of Even More Moves.

After some powerful moves off an undercling, a fixed hanger is soon within reach. Siddle up and rightwards (to another fixed hanger), then finish up the seam.

It is possible to climb into Retardation but you can suspend the disbelief and stay on the wall. The climbing sends you rightwards after that anyway.

Mistakenly named Austisticus Spasticus in Simey and Glen's guide. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6isXNVdguI8

Stick clip U-bolt. Take a running jump off the end of the ledge and leap for the jug. Simultaneously, get your belayer to take in about 5 metres of slack however seems apt. Then climb the crack.

Start: Start off the R end of the ledge.

Link up of Skydiver to Sustained Metaphor. Start up Skydiver until the horizontal weakness at about 8m. Go L along this to the groove on Sustained Metaphor, and up this to the top. Great sustained climbing.

Start: Start 1.5m R of S.

1. 18m (23) Up the RH corner, then 2 bolts to double bolt belay.

2. 12m (21) L almost to arete, then up just R of arete.

Up BM to it's first bolt. Head right to another bolt, some hard moves and finally BM's anchor.

As for EE but span L to the jug on the prow and up the prow to finish.

Start: Start as for CC.

Take the same starting diagonal crack as 'Wascal', but continue another two meters before going up.

Start: Start as for 'Wascal'.

An enjoyable combo with just a couple of metres of new climbing. Has been top-roped before. Up 'Cry Baby' to above its first bolt. Thin moves across L (good wires) to surmount the crux bulge on 'Pwocol Hawum'.

Up the seam, joining the last 3m of 'Entangled'.

Start: Start 8m L of 'Entangled'.

The thin dogleg crack behind dead conifer.

Start: Start on the wall below 'Kryptonite Krack'.

The obvious bottomless crack. Originally put up by 'building a scaffolding' of rocks to stand on and reach the first jug. Went unrepeated until 2001 when Chris Jones onsighted it without the aided start and called it 'It's A Bird It's a Plane'. Now given 27 in the latest guide, however has been climbed by a simple dyno off the deck, reducing the grade to probably around 23.

Start: Start left of 'Kryptonite Krack'.

Prance up the inverted trench, exit L.

Start: Start beneath the main diagonal crack through the steep bulge.

Short thin crack with very tough start. L along break to exciting juggy finish.

Start: Start R of S.

Finish direct.

Start: Start as for AF.

Roof above 'Togrul Khan' past two BR. Inadvertently retrobolted after the FA. It's a bit necky getting to the first bolt. The direct start from the bottom of the wall has been done (Smith Hoskins, 4/5/96), as has the sit start (!!) (Hoskins, 14/5/96).

Start: Start above 'Togrul Khan'.

Short variant to 'Togrul Khan'. Climb right arete, either from left or right past fixed sling (which was originally fencing wire!).

Start: Start just R of TK.

Bouldery.

Start: Start off boulder underneath roof.

The badly protected seam right of 'Daily Planet'.

Start: Start 2m R of 'Daily Planet'.

Start up the ramp of BS, then the flake. Tricky up small corner on the L. Start as for B.

Start just R of C. Boldly up face to bolt.

Slippery and technical. The pikers variant to 'Pain Street'.

Start: Start up 'Cassandra'.

While this is very nearly a sport route, it's important to place gear past the last bolt to avoid a nasty swing into the slab if you fall off the crux.

Start: Start as for 'Cassandra Direct'.

Through bulge, BR, tend a bit L but don't join 'Cassandra' until the diagonal ramp.

Start: Start 3m R of C.

Up the middle of the face - no pro. Stay L of the arete (which is taken by the upper part of It'll Never Fly). It is 19 but probably no easier (!!) to take a flying leap across the chasm from Cassandra's 1st belay to the halfway break!

Start: Start on the R wall of the gully, opposite PW.

You can climb all of pitch 1 and the good bit of pitch 2 in a single mega pitch, then step left to the anchor of 'Afterburner'. It's a great shame that this new anchor wasn't placed 2m to the R on the front of the arete, as this would have allowed the leader to clean their own gear, but as it is someone will need to second if you do this extended version.

Start: Start at the big corner on the Flight Deck.

1. 20m (23) Up corner to piton and continue stemming, after sustained bridging, to the big white blob of rock, hand traverse right past piton to belay stance and rap anchor. The loose LHV to this pitch goes L from the top of the corner to a ledge, back R over difficult bulge via shallow groove, then exits L.

2. 20m (19) From ledge move back left and up corner crack to top, walk off.

Straight up to Orestes' first anchor. Beware, this route is often slimy, and the pro down low is fiddly mediocre RPs. Originally had pitons, they were eventually replaced with bolts but those were ripped out by the ethics police, so good luck...

Start: Start at the thin left-facing corner 4m right of 'Orestes'.

As for Muldoon for 10m to the cave, then steeply out to slot, and up L into crack. Best descent is to use the Fail Safe DRB, otherwise continue up Muldoon to its rap anchors.

Start on the L side of Collision Course Wall, at the top of the V-slot the trail takes, beneath a short L curving flake. Up flake for 12m to cave, then R and blindly through bulge to another cave. Finish up any other route to get off. Poor rock and gear.

Start 5m L of Agamemnon. L-facing orange flakes 1m L of shrub, to striking large holes under roof. Move 1m left to breach roof at obvious under clings, then up face past old peg on the right, drift left and up till the arete is reached, then back right up face to rap anchors (30m).

Reachy. An old route that starts as for FF to the 2nd FH then keeps traversing across to CC. Superseded by FF.

The start of Love That Pain, escaping up Necrophiliac. The rock is a bit dodgy at the start and the gear is fiddly but the climbing is OK.

Reachy.

Start: Start 4m L of SD, below little gumtree poking out of cliff.

Up face, over pocketed roof, then up R to hole.

Start: Start under the arch.

Up the patch of orange rock, 2 BRs.

Start: Start on the tiny outcrop which is downhill from 'Steel Delinquency' Pinnacle, and which faces the same way.

Trench Rawfare - It'll leave you raw!

Offwidth/Roof trench on the right hand side of Steel Delinquency Pinnacle. Approximately 6 meters to the left of Finger Prince.

Go up cave roof and out. Rappel Anchors installed at top of climb.

Offwidth Size Dependent!!

Good mini-route.

Start: Start on the L arete of the 3rd blocky pinnacle.

The speckled face which may have a fixed wire. Start up around L of FP.

Flake, L past PR into small techie corner on arete. Finish L up flake or straight up. The direct start is 23 with a BR, and uses the original footholds as handholds. Start at the L arete of the FP pinnacle, 2m L of TT.

Start off the boulder and L and up the great face which swallows heaps of small wires - if you have the stamina to find the placements! You can also approach the same line by doing the reachy start of IVV.

The fine line L of the slim tree. Start on small orange face which is below and faces the same direction as the Flashing Blade.

Fingery up to BR, R across SO, and up past 2nd BR. Start up L of SO.

Small flake, face, small overlap then tend R. This route looks almost entirely unprotected. Start at the yellow wall which is above and R of Frenzy.

Start just R of F. The low red wall capped by a roof is taken via bouldery face moves then a crack. Finish up groove.

One concerned father hired a private detective when his daughter started seeing Chris! Not that well protected. Start R around the arête from C, 3m L of Stentor's 3rd pitch.

The uphill arete of the pinnacle. No gear at the start. Join Aardvark to finish.

A good pump in the Organ Pipes? Start left of Diapason, 2m right of Ejaculation, beneath obvious overlap.

Undercling past first roof and continue up crack for 5m.

Start just right of Wraith. Great moves on thin face, cruxy past second bolt. Finish straight up or traverse L to finish up The Wraith or Tannin.

Good climbing with hard start and finish but gets few ascents and is sinking beneath the moss. The finish is quite scary. Start 2 metres right of Tremulo at seam.

Beautiful rock but a bit contrived. Start as for Discord.

1. 25m (22) Follow the line of Discord and continue up, keeping as far to the right as possible. At headwall step right to a bulging thin crack which is followed to a ledge. The direct start (23) climbs past a bolt to join this pitch. Graham Jones March 1986. There is a carrot bolt low down which looks like it might be the direct start. There is also a FH a good deal higher than the carrot whose role is not clear.

2. 20m (-) The crack above.

Hardly a recommendation.

Sit start.

The slabby wall opposite Star Search and the main wall. Step on and up, to travers the bulge left to the last small deep wire, then up through crux to continue up slightly right to top. takes thin gear, small to medium wires, and slings.

Lovely line that has been inadvertantly retroed. The obvious line on the left wall.

Up obvious crack stepping right, up, then right again.

"A good little route with a flake not unlike that on Moby Dick". Follow flake on righthand gully wall until it peters out. Traverse 2m L, then up face, tending R to easy arete.

May start as for Mark You've Changed and then provide a direct finish to that climb. Or MYC may be just left of this. Needs another look.

Start at the lefthand of the flakes leading to the inverted V.

Up the obvious right facing flake then right ward on thin holds to a balance crux passing a bolt, then up to the anchor.

Great sustained moves up intermittent pods in the crack and directly through the small roof. Beware a slight runout at about 6m which doesn't leave much room for error.

Start: Start just R of the pillar/pedestal.

Harder than it looks! Small wires and smaller holds.

The tough thin crack just right of Squeakeasy leads into Quisling.