Oberes Mühlviertel Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Oberes Mühlviertel 257 routes in Region

13 17 16 11 2 5 12 9 19 4 18 3 6 1 8 7 10 14 15

1 Burenkogel 2 Waxenberg 3 Kerzenstein 4 Aschach 5 Gupf 6 Etzlberger 7 Poetikerwandl 8 Rabenstein 9 Große Mühltalwand 10 Lotta-Wand 11 Bruckwirtturm 12 Obermühl 13 Sternwald 14 Koglerau 15 Kletteranlage Sportpark Walding 16 Kraxlhalle Bad Leonfelden 17 Kletterwand AV Rohrbach (ÖAV) 18 Kletterhalle Gramastetten (ÖAV) 19 Kletterwand Niederwaldkirchen (ÖAV)

Summary:

G

F

M

A

M

G

L

A

S

O

N

D

Stagionalità

Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 48.553328, 14.067395

1.1. Burenkogel 36 routes in Crag

1 4 2 5

1 Gr. Burenkogel Ost-Wand 2 Gr. Burenkogel Süd-Wand 4 Kl. Burenkogel Süd-Seite 5 Kl. Burenkogel unterer Teil

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 48.381726, 14.170794

1.1.1. Gr. Burenkogel Ost-Wand 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 48.381944, 14.170527

1.1.2. Gr. Burenkogel Süd-Wand 15 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 48.381630, 14.170140

1.1.3. Kl. Burenkogel West-Wand 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.1.4. Kl. Burenkogel Süd-Seite 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 48.381760, 14.171161

1.1.5. Kl. Burenkogel unterer Teil 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 48.381551, 14.171101

descrizione

Alles vermoost. Wird nicht mehr geklettert

1.2. Waxenberg 53 routes in Crag

1

1 Münchhausen

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 48.474649, 14.189084

1.2.1. Münchhausen 20 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 48.474646, 14.189056

1.2.2. Traumpfeiler 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.2.3. Burgfräulein 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.2.4. Spieglein 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.2.5. Elefantenbauch 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.2.6. Crack and Go 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.3. Kerzenstein 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 48.386444, 14.048857

sommario

Im Pesenbachtal

limitazioni per l'accesso

Parken beim Parkplatz Schlagerwirt

1.4. Aschach 39 routes in Crag

9 8 7 6 4 3 2 1

1 Steinbruchplatte 2 Einfach Sylvie 3 Warzenschwein 4 Für Freunde 6 Neuhauskante 7 Wegwandl 8 Locker vom Hocker 9 PS-Riss

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 48.403352, 14.012156

1.4.1. Steinbruchplatte 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 48.384552, 14.030268

1.4.2. Einfach Sylvie 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 48.411145, 14.006026

1.4.3. Warzenschwein 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 48.414017, 14.003756

1.4.4. Für Freunde 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 48.416201, 14.001892

1.4.5. Babyüberhang 1 route in Sector

Summary:

1.4.6. Neuhauskante 19 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 48.420081, 13.994975

1.4.7. Wegwandl 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 48.421158, 13.992469

descrizione

ca 50m nach dem 'Neuhauskante' Richtung Untermühl.

1.4.8. Locker vom Hocker 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 48.423771, 13.988932

1.4.9. PS-Riss 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 48.424206, 13.987389

1.5. Gupf 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 48.468233, 14.258250

descrizione

Zwettl/Rodl

1.6. Etzlberger 69 routes in Crag

7 6 5 3 4 1 2

1 Godiwandl 2 Dachsplatte 3 Gr. Lehnerfelsen 4 Kl. Lehnerfelsen 5 Bouldergebiet 6 Etzlbergertürmchen 7 Stauseefels

Summary:

Per lo più Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 48.384889, 14.138807

1.6.1. Godiwandl 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 48.381941, 14.138113

1.6.2. Dachsplatte 0 routes in Crag

1.6.3. Gr. Lehnerfelsen 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 48.384653, 14.139010

1.6.4. Kl. Lehnerfelsen 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 48.384260, 14.137943

1.6.5. Bouldergebiet 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 48.384784, 14.138021

1.6.6. Etzlbergertürmchen 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 48.387137, 14.138469

1.6.7. Stauseefels 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 48.388987, 14.139782

limitazioni per l'accesso

Nicht bei der Jausenstatio parken

1.7. Poetikerwandl 0 routes in Area

1.8. Rabenstein 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata sportiva

Lat / Long: 48.381072, 14.180149

1.8.1. Rabensteinkante 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.8.2. Direkte W-Wand 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.9. Große Mühltalwand 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Arrampicata sportiva e Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 48.462554, 13.970552

sommario

this is the biggest wall in the upper mühlviertel with a maximum hight of 60m vertical. very spectacular routes with many overhangs. top spot.

descrizione

the highest face in the area with a lot of routes and a lot of potential.

limitazioni per l'accesso

1. 4626 13.9706 drive on the b127 to kleinzell. at edholz (right before the village) turn right to a farmers house called "hof" (there is a yellow sign for the hiking trail to the mühltal). park at the farmhouse and be nice to the farmer.

avvicinamento

follow the hiking trail down to the valley till you nearly reached the river. the face is just aside the trail to your left.

dove alloggiare

i think there are hostels at kleinzell.

etica

there is one trad route (holzkopf) which is the perfect beginners trad line and should not be bolted.

storia

this was a pure tradclimbing area from 2009 to 2011. as everybody was scared and nobody climbed there it got bolted in 2015. (one trad route left to stay)

1.10. Lotta-Wand 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Per lo più Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 48.374704, 14.168629

sommario

Trad Climbing Area with steep granit rock cliffs up to 25m. Spectacular overhangig roof at the top. Good alternative to overcrowded Burenkogel. Toprope possible.

descrizione

The "Lotta Wand" (Lotta Wall) is a granit wall typical for the area. Tradclimbing and Drytooling only. Very spectacular wall.

limitazioni per l'accesso

by car : its about 25min from linz. go to rottenegg and drive the street upstream the Große Rodel Tal till you reach the parking of the burenkogel (see there) by bike : you can take your bike with you in the train to rottenegg for 2 euro hiking : go to rottenegg by train and follow the hiking path upstream till you reach the marked stone (see below) from the other side.

avvicinamento

by car : just drive to the parking lot of the burenkogel and park there. then cross the river over the bridge and turn right (by the house). Follow the hiking trail downstream for about 15-20min until you see a stone with red-white-red marks on it. The Lotta Wand is now left of you up in the forest. So climb a small path (if its still there) steep upwards until you see the cliff.

dove alloggiare

youthhostel in linz or camping in the area.

etica

For ethic reasons and legal concerns the wall was not bolted. All routes are easy to belay with mobile traditional tools. Even no pegs are needed. On the top you will find several trees with rings and slings, so toproping and headpointing is easy. It is maybe the best tradclimbing spot in the mühlviertel. Also drytooling possible.

storia

Also as big as the famous Burenkogel it was first found and cleaned in 2008, as it seems a bit hidden in the forest. All existing routes were defined and climbed by "fleisch" (Robert Wacha) and friends becomming their favorit tradclimbing playground.

1.10.1. NORD 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata trad

descrizione

Very nice edge and easy vertical climbing

1.10.2. MAIN WALL 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata trad

descrizione

Vertical with many variations possible

1.10.3. ROOF 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata trad

descrizione

the main roof ist still waiting for a redpoint clean first ascent ;-)

1.10.4. VEGETABLE 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata trad

descrizione

easy beginners area. good for winter training and drytooling

1.10.5. LULATSCH 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata trad

descrizione

overhanging small roof and drytooling area

1.10.6. SMALL SOUTHFACE 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata trad

descrizione

nice small routes

1.10.7. BOULDER AREA 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Tutti Bouldering

descrizione

along the base of the wall

1.11. Bruckwirtturm 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Tutti Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: 48.475299, 13.923355

sommario

Trad only

descrizione

Small but nice granite tower near Lembach. 2-3 routes. Tradclimbing only. Toprope possible

limitazioni per l'accesso

Drive to the "Bruckwirt" Restaurant between Altenfelden and Lembach. Directly on the crossroad to Obermühl.

avvicinamento

You can see the tower from the restaurant. Follow the path downstream for 4 min and the turn right. Steep uphill in the forest.

dove alloggiare

the Bruckwirt is a hotel and restaurant. Try the lineseed-oil potatos !!

etica

Trad only !!

storia

when the local farmer cut down the forest, the tower came out. me and dominik ecker imideatly started to acsess it. thats how we met. ;-)

1.12. Obermühl 0 routes in Crag

1.13. Sternwald 0 routes in Crag

1.14. Koglerau 11 routes in Area

2 1

1 Koglerauergipfel 2 Hustensaft

Summary:

Tutti Bouldering

Lat / Long: 48.345111, 14.231561

1.14.1. Koglerauergipfel 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 48.343995, 14.232061

descrizione

Half-sided walkable garnite block, partly heavily mossy, up to approx. 4m high.

avvicinamento

Car: Easy access via the hiking trail starting from the "Köglerhof".

Public transport: Bus stop 'Neulichtenberg Maxl' easy access via "Angererweg" -> "Jagaweg" -> "Hagenau" (turn left at the intersection Jagaweg-Hagenau) use the hiking trail.

1.14.2. Hustensaft 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 48.346070, 14.231487

1.15. Kletteranlage Sportpark Walding 0 routes in Gym

descrizione

Galtür 29c

Alpinarium

6563 Galtür

http://www.sportpark.at/

Tel: 0699 10136930

1.16. Kraxlhalle Bad Leonfelden 0 routes in Gym

descrizione

Hagauerstraße 25

Pro-Mo Sport & Freizeitpark

4190 Bad Leonfelden

http://www.kraxlhalle.at

1.17. Kletterwand AV Rohrbach (ÖAV) 0 routes in Gym

descrizione

Schulstraße 5

Volksschule Rohrbach

4150 Rohrbach in Oberösterreich

http://www.alpenverein.at/rohrbach

Tel: 0664 / 30 10 755

1.18. Kletterhalle Gramastetten (ÖAV) 0 routes in Gym

descrizione

Auf der Kletterwand befinden sich zwischen 35-40 Routen vom Schwierigkeitsgrad 4-8 UIAA. Bei der Bewertung haben wir uns an den Klettergärten im Mühlviertel orientiert.

Während der Öffnungszeiten ist ein Betreuer des Alpenvereins anwesend, der mit Rat und Tat zur Seite steht.

storia

Im Juni 2000 wurde durch den Alpenverein Gramastetten (Österreichischer Alpenverein, Sektion TK Linz) eine 10 Meter hohe und 125 Quadratmeter große Kletterwand in der Sporthalle der Gemeinde Gramastetten errichtet. Im April 2003 wurde die Wand durch ein 26 Quadratmeter großes Dach und im April 2007 durch eine 34 Quadratmeter große Boulderwand erweitert. 2015 wurde die Vorstiegskletterwand um eine neuen Bereich erweitert.

Um ganzjährigen klettern zu können, wurde im Herbst 2009 eine Infrarotheizung im Bereich der Kletterwand installiert.

1.19. Kletterwand Niederwaldkirchen (ÖAV) 0 routes in Gym

descrizione

Gutauer Straße 49

4283 Bad Zell

http://www.alpenverein.at/linz-niederwaldkirchen/

Tel: 0664/601653046