Ascensioni in Bulgaria

Colorful route 👌

Another phenomenal line in the cave.

Cool line. A few reachy moves make it at least a grade harder for shorties.

Well apparently the tradition here is to first do the route and then collectively pretend its a 7b - sure, happy to oblige It could have been 7b, maybe when Khan Asparuh founded Bulgaria, but ok, I'm sure I have logged 7bs in the other extreme - lets restore the balance in the universe #karma.

Really nice tufa line that hasn’t been polished into oblivion yet. Kneebars are crucial for pump…

Huge runout just before the last bolt but it looks more intimidating from the ground than it actually is. As soon as you move off the tufas you are on massive jugs and unless you are totally redlining you should be able to make it to the next bolt. Looking down the whip looked totally safe and not as big as from the ground. Go for it!

This route’s grade is all in the crux move. The tufa section below the crux is maybe 6a+ at the most. The crux itself is quite reachy at at 193cm I didn’t have a problem with it. Shorter people will need high feet but the hole you are going for is actually a big jug flake so commit and you will be rewarded. Potential kneebar is you want just before it but not a great one. The traverse at the top was safe on jugs and you can even clip the last bolt of the route to the left if you need to. Final move is big but great rests before.

The crux feels a little spicy until you find the correct feet. Really chill after that. Fun route! The top gets sun in the morning. Upgraded a little from polish.

This route is definitely harder, and way more polished than Eko Pateka. There are several cool mantle moves requiring good footwork and balance.

The direct finish to the top is significantly harder now with how polished the feet are. I was a little more gripped than I would’ve liked to be for a cool-down.

Start is hard going to a very polished crimp. Past this it’s way more chill but you have to stay left on the flake and clip way to the right. The feet get tricky but the hands are great. Doing the direct beta is maybe 7b. Bolting is safe but a bit spacey, I wouldn’t want to fall on this route on a few sections.

Hard. Lower moves feel a little dirty. Committing dead points on slab. Upper runout on last technical section is puckering with the big move but feels great if you stick it. The finish is badass on perfectly-textured tufas.

Some of the most retarded bolting I’ve ever seen. Dangerously runout in the hardest section then you have 3 bolts less than a foot from each other right below the chains. Wtf? Around 5.8

Last draw to the anchors is easily 7a/7a+ with how many holds have broken. Significantly more difficult crux than Buona Serra but overall less pumpy. I could not find a 6c+ beta. The rest of the climb is incredibly enjoyable, maybe 6a to the big flake then 6c to the last draw, 7a/7a+ finishing moves. 2nd try.

Really pleasant warmup. 5.7 jugs on the low angle to a 5.8 juggy overhang tufa finish. Bring more draws than you think you need

Super-easy face climbing, maybe 6a until you get to the underclings and tufa. The hardest moves are right away getting established with bad feet then you cruise on jugs to the top! Amazing finish with a little runout for added spice.

Yeesh, what a humility sandwich. Definitely felt 7a last session and also today until I found my VERY specific beta that I kept forgetting, especially the feet. Hard and polished. Maybe used to be 6c before it got ran through so many times but this is solid 6c+ now. It’s over quick but it ain’t over till it’s over.

If this route were any sicker you’d need to call an ambulance. Holy tits what a cool line. Relentlessly pumpy, core-intensive moves and no true rest besides a few shit kneebars if you’re lucky. Stoked to come back for this one and lose some more skin. Consistently more difficult moves than Triagalnikat and without any of the good rests