Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Popolarità | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Limpopo Kransberg Chevron Area | |||||
13 | ★ Auf Wiedersehen
FA: M. Urban, R. Charlton, W. Wieder & R. v.d. Riet, 1961 | ||||
12 | ★★ Eierkrantz
1
12
28m
2
12
28m
3
12
40m
4
11
20m
FA: J. Thorp, J. Graaff & E. Chadwick, 1947 | 120m, 4 | |||
15 | Perdeby
1
15
40m
2
A1
13m
3
11m
FA: J. Graaff, J. Clayton & D. Williamson, 1959 | 64m, 3 | |||
20 | ★ Wild Thing
1
19
23m
2
11
17m
3
5.0
0
4
20
25m
5
19
18m
6
13
33m
7
19
33m
8
19
23m
FA: A.D. Barley, C. Cowley & M. White, 1967 | 170m, 8 | |||
17 | Claypot
1
17
19m
2
8
32m
3
15
26m
FA: A.G Chinery, B.Honey & C. Cowley, 1964 | 77m, 3 | |||
7 | Yellowwood Gully
This gully provides a pleasant descent route. Two abseils of 20m and 14m from big yellowwood trees are required during the descent. | ||||
12 | ★ Bacchus
1
11
25m
2
12
25m
3
12
30m
4
11
22m
5
1
60m
6
12
30m
7
11
20m
FA: D. Steenkamp, H. Hoshoff, F. Baumgartner & D. Lubbe, 1971 | 210m, 7 | |||
13 | Snowflake
1
13
33m
2
12
33m
3
12
23m
FA: T. Louw, W. Curle & E. Axelson., 1947 | 89m, 3 | |||
15 | ★ Hatchet
1
15
23m
2
13
28m
3
12
26m
4
13
32m
5
11
29m
The climb is situated just to the right of the Eierkrantz buttress, between Snowflake and Wafer Crack. When looking at the face from below there is an orange scar at the bottom left. Just right of the top of the orange scar there are two prominent cracks going to the top of the face, the left one stopping just short of the top. The climb follows the left hand crack about halfway and then the right hand crack to the top.
FA: P. Venter & P. Fatti, 1966 | 140m, 5 | |||
13 | Wafer Crack
FA: B. Harris & D. Gilham, 1948 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Rum Doodle
1
11
27m
2
13
21m
3
17
15m
4
17
12m
5
13
18m
6
17
30m
FA: J. Anderson, P. Venter, P. Fatti. & P. Fatti, 1966 | 120m, 6 | |||
13 | ★ Cone Face
1
8
2
13
25m
3
11
25m
FA: J. Graaff & J. Thorp | 50m, 3 | |||
13 | ★ Hole and Corner
FA: J. Graaff, J. Clayton & J. Stapley, 1959 | ||||
20 | Cheetah
1
12
40m
2
15
15m
3
17
25m
4
20
20m
5
12
45m
FA: L.P. Fatti & M.A. Prior, 1979 | 150m, 5 | |||
19 | Tom-Tom
1
12
30m
2
11
24m
3
19
30m
4
15
27m
5
13
15m
FA: T. Kerrich, M. Makowski & J. Anderson, 1964 | 130m, 5 | |||
17 | ★★ Aasvoëls End
1
17
37m
2
15
30m
3
13
34m
4
12
43m
FA: B. Thompson, B. Harris & J. Graaff, 1949 | 140m, 4 | |||
22 | Endvoëls Arse
1
22
30m
2
15
15m
3
22
22m
FA: B. de Bruin, Chris Lomax & Dave Cheesmond, 1979 | 67m, 3 | |||
17 | ★ Jerrymunglum
1
10
30m
2
12
12m
3
17
32m
4
15
6m
5
15
21m
6
12
34m
FA: D. Cretchley, M. Makowski, P. Venter & J. Anderson, 1964 FFA: K. Bennets, J. Brigg, P. Fatti & J. Anderson, 1965 | 140m, 6 | |||
17 A0 | Jerrymunglum Direct
1
11
30m
2
13
30m
3
17 A0
17m
4
17
30m
FA: R.H Smithers & P.H. Anderson, 1974 | 110m, 4 | |||
17 | Swift Crag
1
8
12m
2
8
21m
3
11
21m
4
15
9m
5
17
30m
6
15
6m
7
30m
8
12m
freed at grade 21 FA: D. Smith, R.F. Davies & H. Williams | 140m, 8 | |||
19 | The Reluctant Accomplice
1
18
45m
2
19
45m
3
16
45m
4
12
10m
FA: Hector Pringle, Andrew Porter & Nic Grech-Cumbo, 2011 | 150m | |||
13 | ★★ Groothoek Chimney
Two large diagonal cracks form a feature on the krantz that look like the Eiffel Tower. This route climbs the left crack. Clean and sustained climbing with possibly one grade 15 move. The crux is in the 2nd half of the route. FA: T. Louw, B. Curle & L. Peirson, 1947 | 4 | |||
19 | ★★ Apocolypse
1
15
30m
2
12
20m
3
18
35m
4
19
25m
5
15
25m
6
18
25m
7
13
45m
The routes goes up a conical buttress. Starts near a big yellowwood tree midway between Groothoek Chimney and Black Eagle Crag below a big roof 15/20m up.
Note: Excellent climbing made less serious by the proximity of Groothoek Chimney. FA: M. Arsenjevic & D. Peters, 1982 | 210m, 7 | |||
16 | ★★★ Black Eagle Crag
1
12
27m
2
10
21m
3
16
45m
4
14
40m
5
16
27m
6
13
24m
Two large diagonal cracks form a feature on the krantz that look like the Eiffel Tower. The left crack is climbed by 'Groothoek Chimney'. 'Black Eagle Crag' follows a line up the right crack and then on the face between the cracks. The start is in a vegetated crack leading to some large overhangs in the centre of the Chevron, 15m right of 'Groothoek Chimney'.
Variations: (Pitch 1, 17): Right of crack of pitch 1 there is another crack with overhanging roof. Climb this moving out left at top. (Pitch 1, 17): Start behind tree between the two cracks. Climb the face. (Pitch 6, 20): There is a break in the middle of the overhang right at the tip of the Eiffel Tower. FA: J. Graaff, P. Campbell & E. Chadwick, 1949 | 180m, 6 | |||
21 | ★★ Reprobate
1
21
30m
2
17
30m
3
10
8m
4
13
30m
5
15
30m
On the corner of Groothoek gully is a buttress with a tree on top. It is possible to scramble up it from the left. Just left of the buttress is a wide water streak right of a small (30cm) right facing corner. The original climb starts 30m directly above the right facing corner on a large ledge which can be accessed by traversing left from the above mentioned buttress. There is supposed to be a "very good direct start (17)" to reach this point.
Note: Pitches 4 and 5 are a variation of the original line that provides better climbing. The original line climbed much further towards the right to a grass and aloe ramp and then up various corners to a ledge leading to the right, finishing 4m left of Chukamisa. FA: Alan Lambert & Clive Ward, 1979 | 130m, 5 | |||
16 | ★ Chukamisa
1
15
25m
2
15
20m
3
16
40m
4
8
34m
FA: K. Bennets, T. Kerrich & K. Lechmere-Oertel, 1961 | 120m, 4 | |||
18 | Reaching Raptors
1
18
45m
2
15
45m
3
14
25m
FA: Hector Pringle, Andrew Porter & Nic Grech-Cumbo, 2011 | 120m | |||
11 | ★★ Sunshine Crack
1
6
30m
2
11
30m
3
11
20m
4
9
45m
5
8
45m
Left of 'Groothoek Gully' is a large block with a large tree on top. The climb proper starts on this block.
Variations: (Pitch 3 & 4, 15): From the large ledge, move onte the left hand face at a point about 5m left of the main corner. Climb diagonally leftwards up face to the top. (2002, A. George, A. Porter) FA: P. Campbell & J. Graaff, 1949 | 170m, 5 | |||
8 | Devil's Highway
1
8
30m
2
8
70m
FA: R. Thomas & D. Morgan, 2001 | 100m, 2 | |||
6 | Groothoek Gully
This is the usual decent route involving some scrambling. | ||||
13 | Dry Waterfall
1
12
35m
2
13
43m
3
7
?
FA: Stewart Middlemiss & L. Gardiner, 1983 | 78m, 3 | |||
12 | Feather Recess
1
11
20m
2
10
20m
3
12
40m
FA: C. Ward, 1979 | 80m, 3 | |||
15 | Lego
1
15
20m
2
15
35m
3
12
40m
FA: A. Porter, T. Viljoen, G. Rehmet & R. Oosthuisen | 95m, 3 | |||
17 | The Sinner
FA: Alan Lambert & Clive Ward | 85m | |||
15 | ★ The Saint
1
15
33m
2
11
21m
3
12
23m
4
8
37m
FA: P. Andersen & D. Peter, 1973 | 110m, 4 | |||
15 | ★★★ Angel Recess
1
13
45m
2
12
10m
3
15
40m
About 10m left of Angelica is a small buttress against the main face about 10m high. Start in the corner between the buttress and the main face on the left side of the buttress.
Note: The climb can be done in two pitches by scrambling to the top of the buttress (easy on the right) and then combining pitches 1 and 2. FA: G. Chinery, B. Honey & Romey Stapley, 1964 | 95m, 3 | |||
11 | ★ Angelica
1
10
20m
2
10
30m
3
11
30m
FA: P. Harris & J. Anderson, 1957 | 80m, 3 | |||
19 | ★★ Alignment
1
19
15m
2
15
30m
3
15
30m
4
12
30m
Climb the thin seam, splitting the buttress, to the right of Angelica’s deep crack. This is easily seen from where the path enters the kloof at the base of Sunshine Crack. Walk around Angelica’s pillar and scramble up to a ledge at the base of the crack, about 25m right of Angelica’s pillar.
FA: Sarel Petrus & Roger Diamond | 110m | |||
13 | Jerries' Jitters
1
11
2m
2
12
33m
3
13
40m
4
8
17m
5
12
6
11
40m
7
27m
FA: K. Kroger, E. Meyer & D. Lubbe, 1968 | 160m, 6 | |||
17 | Hairyback
1
15
10m
2
17
23m
3
17
23m
4
17
33m
5
11
13m
6
11
13m
7
17
33m
FA: A.D. Barley & R.P. Barley, 1968 | 150m, 7 | |||
13 | Pigeon Pie
FA: T. Louw, W. Curle, G. Burrow & E. Lude, 1947 | ||||
17 | Enema
1
13
30m
2
17
27m
3
15
33m
FA: C. Baker & C. Ward, 1979 | 90m, 3 | |||
17 | Pwoit
1
12
26m
2
17
26m
3
15
32m
4
8
16m
FA: J. Anderson, M. Makowski & Anne Torry, 1965 | 100m, 4 | |||
12 | Dry Vulch Traverse
1
12
40m
2
8
13m
3
11
20m
4
12
13m
5
11
17m
6
8
40m
FA: M. Prior & G. Athiros, 1970 | 140m, 6 | |||
13 | Chanel Crack
FA: P. Scott, G. Patrick & P. Urban, 1960 | ||||
15 | Vintage Adventure
1
12
45m
2
15
40m
3
15
30m
4
13
45m
FA: H. Seuring, H. Vogl & E. Muller, 1983 | 160m, 4 | |||
15 | Lavender Crack
The route is 70m to the right of 'Chanel Crack' in a corner formed by a step in the face. The vegetation has discouraged subsequent parties. FA: B. Barris, G. Burrow & D. Roberts., 1947 | 100m | |||
17 | Imagination
1
17
45m
2
15
45m
3
12
20m
FA: M.R. Bill, P.L.A. Bill, E. Muller & H. Seuring, 1982 | 110m | |||
7 | Garden Route
FA: P. Urban, P. Scott & J. Clayton, 1958 | ||||
19 | Lost Contact
1
15
40m
2
19
40m
3
15
45m
4
11
20m
FA: M.R. Bill, E. Muller & H. Seuring, 1982 | 150m | |||
12 | Cabin Crack
1
11
23m
2
11
18m
3
8
8m
4
11
20m
5
12
31m
6
11
23m
7
12
26m
8
9
20m
FA: H. Wongtchowski, H. Barker & G. Hoehn, 1939 | 170m, 8 | |||
13 | Crack of Doom
1
11
25m
2
8
13m
3
12
9m
4
13
13m
5
6
13m
6
13
25m
7
13
32m
8
13
21m
FA: M. Burton, M. Gaze & B. Harris, 1939 | 150m, 8 | |||
Limpopo Kransberg Wages of Fear Area | |||||
15 | ★ Vavoom
1
13
28m
2
13
28m
3
13
21m
4
12
25m
5
12
32m
6
15
35m
7
8
8
32m
FA: Paul Fatti & P. van Nierop, 1965 | 200m, 8 | |||
21 | ★★★ Red Rackhams Treasure
This route climbs directly up the middle of “red sail” (same face as Vavoom) and breaks through the left extremity of the top overhangs
Descent
FA: Nic Grech-Cumbo & Hector Pringle, 2016 | 200m, 4 | |||
17 | Gasoline Alley
1
11
35m
2
15
45m
3
17
25m
4
17
45m
5
17
45m
FA: P. Andersen, D. Peters & Jerry Linke, 1974 | 200m, 5 | |||
22 | ★★★ Wages of Fear
1
17
30m
2
22
35m
3
22
40m
4
17
40m
FFA: Chris Lomax & Dave Cheesmond, 1980 FA: Eckhart Haber, 1980 | 150m, 4 | |||
22 | Echard's Error
1
19
25m
2
20
20m
3
20
20m
4
22
20m
5
19
25m
6
17
30m
FA: Chris Lomax & George Mallory, 1984 | 140m, 6 | |||
22 | Faction Fightin
1
22
20m
2
20
20m
3
20
10m
4
22
20m
5
20
20m
6
20
45m
7
15
10m
FA: Chris Lomax, George Mallory & Tarquin Holt, 1984 | 150m, 7 | |||
12 | Plumbline
1
10
21m
2
12
18m
3
12
27m
4
7
40m
FA: Art McGarr & D. Peters, 1969 | 110m | |||
18 | ★★★ Grey Beard's Sabre
Pitch 1: 50m 18: Gain the obvious crack on the left of the stance follow the easiest line up the crack system past a small block on the left with a manky piton. (20m) continue upwards until you reach a large ledge below the open book. Pitch 2: 60m 15: continue up the open book feature until you reach an obvious stance on the left of the crack. (2 people comfortably). Pitch 3:50m 16: climb up the crack until you reach a small overhang move diagonally left through the overhang and continue up the face trending left past a small tree on the left arête to a stance below a large yellowwood . Pitch 4: 50m 18: traverse right from the good stance back onto the face, trend diagonally right until you gain the right arête, bomb up the committing but well protected face until you reach the obvious stance before the easy scramble out. FA: Nic Grech-Cumbo & shaun kroukamp, 2015 | 200m, 4 | |||
Limpopo Renosterpoort Farm Lazy Day Crag Upper Sector | |||||
FR:6c | ★★ Poolside Boulder
Start just to the left of lightning bird, a boulder problem to the ledge, rap off the tree. FA: Nic Grech-Cumbo, Apr 2020 | 10m | |||
18 | ★★ Lightning Bird
The objective of this route is a lightning bolt shaped crack on a block at the top of the crag, where the gorge makes a bend. Start behind a huge boulder, true left, at the narrowest point of the gorge.' Climb up in the corner to a mantle move through an overhanging crack. Aim straight for the block, easy, and top out via the lightning crack. FA: Sarel Petrus & Roger Diamond, 22 Ott 2022 | 30m | |||
Limpopo Renosterpoort Farm Lazy Day Crag Chopping Block | |||||
18 | ★★★ Poo with a view
Climb on the stream facing side of the block, start 2m to the left of the corner shared by slickenside, pull on good holds through overhanging bulges. FA: Nic Grech-Cumbo, ChrisOdd & Jemma Falkov, 2021 | 20m | |||
18 | ★★ Slickenside
Climb on the face adjacent to the vegetated dihedral, start close to the corner FA: Nic Grech-Cumbo, Apr 2020 | 20m | |||
Limpopo Renosterpoort Farm Lazy Day Crag Main Crag | |||||
13 | ★ Face of Fear
Start to the right of a 3m high block in an nice dihedral, Traverse right onto a ledge avoid nettles, some scary moves up a sloping dihedral to a small ledge, move left and up passing a small tree on the right. FA: Nic Grech-Cumbo & Job Langeveld | 30m | |||
14 | ★ Dutch Rubber
Climb 2m to a small ledge, weasel your way (left or right) of a small chimney trending up and right follow you nose up to a good ledge with a tree, continue up on the left hand side of the tree. FA: Nic Grech-Cumbo, Delpoort Botma, Courtney Robinson, Mathias De Beenhouwer FA: Nic Grech-Cumbo, Delpoort Botma, Courtney Robinson & Mathias de Beenhouwer, Lug 2023 | 30m | |||
15 | ★★ Sunbird
Scramble to a ledge beneath a small roof, pull through roof off crimps to easy climbing to the right, follow vertical seam to top. FA: Nic Grech-Cumbo & Nicole Burri, 2020 | 30m | |||
16 | ★ Crack a doodle doo
Start to the right of chimney, climb diagonally right up obvious line to ledge, traverse left under overhanging section into chimney. Climb to top. Stance at tree. FA: Nic Grech-Cumbo & Tim Dunnett, 2020 | 30m | |||
Thieving Magpies
Start the same as for Crack A Doodle, at blank overhanging rock go slightly right and up, follow line of blank overhanging rock until roof ¾ way up, pull through roof on crimps to jugs then easier rock FFA: Marianne Schwankhart, Karine Bezuidenhout & Jessica Bloem, 22 Ott 2022 | 30m | ||||
16 | ★ Bobejaan klim die berg
Climb the obvious diagonal slab and rail left under the left hand side of the roof to a small ledge with trees. Continue more or less straight up to the top of the crag. FA: Sarel Petrus & Roger Diamond | 50m, 2 | |||
11 | 6.7 Klimen en klauterin
Start as for FNJ, continue traversing left beneath the steep rock, continue up the recess between the two major faces, stance where necessary and follow your nose to the top up easy rock. FA: Nic Grech-Cumbo & Job Langeveld | 50m, 2 | |||
19 | ★★ Activate
Between “KeK”and “FNJ” Skirting the first corner 2m up activates then mental focus for the route. Climb easily half way up to a roof corner crack. Pull through middle of block, with a long move to next rail. Powerful and commiting. Climb out slightly to right around corner and up straight. Easier climbing but still committing FA: Marianne Schwankhart & Jessica Bloem, 22 Ott 2022 | 30m | |||
19 | ★★ Full Nettle Jacket
Start at stream level and climb the obvious buttress, through a small roof halfway up the buttress FA: Sarel Petrus & Roger Diamond, 22 Ott 2022 | 45m | |||
21 A1 | ★★★ Juluka
FA: Sarel Petrus & Bennie de Wet, 23 Ott 2022 | 40m, 2 | |||
15 | ★★ Riverview
FA: Sarel Petrus & Roger Diamond | 40m, 2 | |||
Limpopo Renosterpoort Farm Lazy Day Crag Sunny Face | |||||
12 | Adder Udder
Start at the base of an open book and follow your nose to a ledge with trees FA: Nic Grech-Cumbo & Nicole Burri, Apr 2020 | 15m | |||
Limpopo Wellington's Dome North Dome | |||||
17 | Gem Squash
This route ascends the right most chimney crack on the main wall as the face tends to crumble away to the gully. Descend by rapping off the tree at the top or walk around to the gully at the back. FA: Alard Hufner, Mark Seuring & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2001 | ||||
Limpopo Thabaphaswa Kanniedood | |||||
16 | Snail space
Start around the corner from Scorpion. Climb the obvious crack for 4 meters then traverse right into a shallow corner. Continue following the crack and move under and past the bulge. Climb the off-width crack to a big platform. From the platform go left and do three well protected moves to gain the easy but runout slab. Continue up to the anchors on the second pitch of Scorpion. FA: Sarel Petrus, Allen Laing & Christian Louw, 12 Giu 2022 | 50m | |||
Limpopo gaMashashane Ngopane Needle | |||||
11 | Mma-Mogašwa
Opened in a single 45m pitch on double ropes, this line follows the right hand crack on the south-eastern side of the crag to a point 50m below the summit. To get down, scramble under the boulders to the left at the top of the climb and scramble down the steep gully on the crag's southern side (to your right as you exit from under the boulders). FA: Vince Egan & Ed McLenaghan, 2009 | 50m | |||
Limpopo Hanglip Hanglip South I | |||||
F3 | ★★ Zimbabwe Tower
1
E2
21m
2
E1
12m
3
E2
15m
4
E3
21m
5
F2
12m
6
F3
30m
7
E3
21m
8
F3
12m
9
E3
14m
10
E1
21m
11
E3
18m
12
D
30m
The conical mass comprising the tower is split about two-third of the way up by a well-defined grassy ledge which divides the climb into two separate portions. Viewed from the East, the monotony of the horizontal slabs is seen to be broken by two vertical cracks - one towards the right on the lower section and one almost on the left ridge of the section. The route generally follows these cracks except for a deviation, onto the left-hand face near the top of the lower crack below the grass ledge.
FA: R. Barry & H. Barker, 1937 | 230m, 12 | |||
E2 | Easy Route up Zimbabwe
1
D
18m
2
E2
9m
3
D
33m
4
D
20m
5
D
11m
Proceed up gully to neck between Zimbabwe and the main escarpment. | 91m, 5 | |||
E2 | Die Tik
1
D
17m
2
E2
15m
3
E2
20m
4
D
21m
5
D
18m
Approximately 1.5km north of Zimbabwe buttress there is a long diagonal cleft (gully). The climb starts about 350m to the right of this diagonal cleft beneath the dome. 17m (D) Left of red corner with pronounced overhang in crack, climb under and behind chockstone.
Descent: Proceed into main gully and down as far as waterfall over rockbands. Continue around left (facing mountain). FA: T. Sholes, J. Knox, R. Forsyth & G. Burrow, 1949 | 91m, 5 | |||
F3 A2 | ★★ Consolation
1
F2
20m
2
F1
25m
3
F2
40m
4
F1
35m
5
F3 A2
20m
6
E3
30m
7
E3
25m
8
E3
25m
1km east of the Zimbabwe climb one can see a ver prominent V-shaped rock formation, centered by a huge dome. Running up the right-hand flank of the “V” one can see a number of open book shaped cracks. Counting the very first small open book, the climb starts to the right at the bottom of the seventh, the last open book shaped crack. Viewed from close range, one can see a black streak running down the right-hand side of the open book.
FA: Jerry Linke, Eckhart Druschke & Romey Druschke, 1974 | 220m, 8 | |||
F3 | ★ Combi
1
F2
20m
2
F2
40m
3
E3
45m
4
F3
40m
5
E3
90m
FA: E. Müller, H, Seuring & H. Seuring, 1981 | 240m, 5 | |||
F2 | ★★ Innominata
1
F2
40m
2
E3
8m
3
F2
25m
4
F1
25m
5
F1
25m
Pitch 1 has been climbed by unknown parties prior to FA. FA: Eckhart Druschke, Romey Druschke & H. Zangerl, 1981 | 120m, 5 | |||
F1 | ★ R.A.C
1
F1
40m
2
F1
30m
To the left of Afternoon Ascension one can see a big black face high up. 80m to the left of that a red pillar is clearly visible. The climb start in the corner directly below the right hand side of the pillar.
FA: T. Bright & J. de V. Graaff, 1947 | 70m, 2 | |||
Limpopo Hanglip Hanglip South II | |||||
G1 A1 | ★★ Gambol
1
F3 A1
26m
2
G1
40m
3
F3
30m
4
F2
25m
5
G1 A1
32m
The route generally follows the shallow recess about 30m to the left of the prominent chimney of Afternoon Ascension. At the base is a steep corner that peters out before reaching the shallow recess above. About 15m to the right is another corner extending from the left of a small overhang about 3m up to a larger overhang about 12m up. Start below this corner.
FA: Paul Fatti & Art McGarr, 1974 | 150m, 5 | |||
F2 | ★ Afternoon Ascension
1
D
15m
2
E
30m
3
F1
25m
4
F2
25m
5
F2
25m
6
E3
30m
7
D
30m
Start 40m right of chimney. Scramble up to ledge.
FA: T. Bright, D. Charlton, P. Petoussis & G. Thorpe, 1947 | 180m, 7 | |||
G1 | ★★ Rosemary’s Baby
1
G1
36m
2
F2
13m
3
F2
11m
4
G1
36m
5
F3
30m
6
F2
48m
7
D
10m
The route goes up the prominent crack-line 50m to the right of Afternoon Ascension on the Eastern Buttress above the camp site. Scramble up to a ledge and tree belay at the foot of the crack.
FA: P. Fatti & L. Mallen, 1971 | 180m, 7 | |||
G3 | ★★ Freak Out
1
G3
30m
2
G2
30m
3
F3
30m
Start 15m left of Naked Orange.
FA: Chris Lomax & Dave Cheesmond, 1979 | 90m, 3 | |||
F3 A2 | ★★ Naked Orange
1
F2
30m
2
F3 A2
24m
3
F1
40m
4
F2
20m
5
E2
40m
The route follows a line 130m right of Afternoon Ascension and 15m left of a huge boulder.
FA: Eckhart Druschke, Romey Druschke & Clive Ward, 1973 | 150m, 5 | |||
F2 | African Bee
1
F1
25m
2
F2
10m
3
F2
25m
4
E3
45m
5
F1
30m
6
E3
45m
7
E2
45m
8
E1
45m
From the start of Naked Orange, walk along the rock face to the right until a ledge is reached. Continue along the ledge (about 150m) to a 4m open book with a beacon at the start. This is about 50m to the left of C cad.
FA: J. Zietsman & Eckhart Haber, 1976 | 270m, 8 | |||
F1 | ★ Cycad Ridge
This climb follows the ridge 50m to the right of African Bee. Most of the route is fairly obvious. At the top rock band a leftward detour from a recess onto a face is necessary. FA: M. Prior | ||||
Limpopo Hanglip Hanglip South III | |||||
F3 A1 | Vegetarian
1
E2
20m
2
F3 A1
15m
3
F3
40m
4
E3
30m
5
F1
30m
The route goes up the prominent buttress unofficially called Frugal Kop, about halfway between the campsite and Hanglip. When leaving the campsite, take the road going to the left just before the first gate, walk through a little stream and carry on, passing another gate. The road peters out a the foot of the buttress. The fence bends to the left, heading straight up to a little buttress against the rock face. From this, the route goes straight up the prominent crack with overhangs going out to the right, then up a thinning crack and finally through large blocks at the top of the face.
Free Variation:Climb up a recess 5m to the left of the fence.
FA: M. Briggs & Eckhart Haber, 1974 FFA: Eckhart Haber & H. Zangerl, 1980 | 140m, 5 | |||
F2 | Herbivorous
1
F1
40m
2
F2
20m
3
F1
40m
4
D
45m
5
F2
38m
6
F2
45m
Start in a chimney abut 10m to the right of Vegetarian. This is 15m to the right of a very prominent chimney.
FA: Eckhart Haber & H. Zangerl, 1978 | 230m, 6 | |||
F2 | Carnivorous
1
F1
30m
2
F1
15m
3
F1
40m
4
F2
40m
5
F1
43m
6
E2
30m
Approximately 200m to the right of the fence is a big brown patch of rock 40m up. The right-hand side of this has a big overhang and the left a recessed crack, with a tree about 8m up.
Note: This route partly resembles a climb called Spinnekop opneed in April 1950 by D R Bell and B I Harris. The first pitch starts 50m t ot the left of Carnivorous. The second antd third pitches are synonomous. Unfortunately it was not possible to trace the original route rom pitch four onwards. FA: Eckhart Haber & D. Talma, 1975 | 200m, 6 | |||
Limpopo Hanglip Hanglip South IV | |||||
G2 | ★★ Hanglip Frontal
1
E2
18m
2
D
22m
3
E2
30m
4
E3
40m
5
E2
15m
6
E3
24m
7
D
18m
8
F2
30m
9
F2
15m
10
F2
33m
11
F1
16m
12
F2
18m
13
G2
4m
14
E3
20m
15
E3
20m
The lower section follow the largest area of grey rock on the South East side of the mountain. Start 150 steps to the left of the fence, which runs straight up to the rock face. Start at tha large tree growing 3m away from the rock face.
FA: R. Barry, C. Purdham (1937-12-25) Variation: Starting from the top of pitch 8 to near the bottom of pitch 12, this section can be climbed in two direct pitches. Decent: If the climb is completed in daylight, a fairly quick descent, involving a short abseil, can be made in the vicinity of the first saddle behind the main peak. As this route is not easy to find in darkness, late parties are advised to contour around on the rough, bushy slopes of the next 'hump' to a more obvious route where a steep grassy gully breaks the rock faces. To decent to Hanglip North, the descent is as follows: From the top beacon of Hanglip, keeping basically right, descend to a neck between a small koppie and Hanglip. The koppie overlooks the valley of Hanglip North. DO NOT go down the gully, but descend the slope diagonally left of the gully. FA: R. Barry & C. Purdham, 1937 | 320m, 15 | |||
G1 A2 | ★★ Hanglip Frontal Direct
1
E2
25m
2
F2
40m
3
D
20m
4
F1
30m
5
E2
30m
6
F2
30m
7
F3 A2
30m
8
F3
25m
9
G1 A1
20m
10
F1
30m
Start in a recessed chimney 50m to the left of the fence (boundry).
FA: Eckhart Haber & Clive Ward, 1978 | 280m, 10 | |||
G3 A0 | ★★★ Hanglip Frontal Super Direct
1
F2
25m
2
G1
20m
3
F3
25m
4
F2
30m
5
F2
45m
6
F3
25m
7
F3
22m
8
G2 A0
40m
9
G3
25m
10
E1
40m
The climb starts 10m to the right of where the boundary fence terminates against the rock face. This is about 100m to the right of the start of Hanglip Frontal.
FA: Clive Ward & Eckhart Haber, 1979 | 300m, 10 | |||
Limpopo Hanglip Hanglip North A | |||||
F3 A3 | ★ Conception
1
D
20m
2
F2
20m
3
F3 A2
15m
4
F2
30m
5
F3 A1
12m
6
F3 A3
20m
7
F1
40m
8
F1
40m
The climb goes up a recessed crack with a prominent hanging bush halfway up on the first buttress to the right of Hanglip. The climb starts to the left of Born Free and directly beneath the hanging bush. (Beacon).
FA: E. Müller, E. Nienaber & Eckhart Haber, 1978 | 200m, 8 |