Vie in Gloucestershire

Four contrasting pitches split by good belay ledges. The difficulties on the second pitch are 'traditional' meaning probably harder than VDiff! Start at a tree at the base of a vertical corner that is at the beginning of The Easy Way Down.

1. 23m. Climb the corner with a thin crack, and another couple of corners above it, to a huge flat ledge with various tree belays.

2. 4a, 10m. Can be avoided on the right. Walk right to a well defined hand crack. Boulder up the fun wall and overlap just to its left and then the more technical polished groove in the next wall. Belay at a tree and cracks in the short wall above.

3. 18m. The buttress above is climbed via an excellent crack just left of two small trees. Belay on good ledges above.

4. 12m. Climb a thin hand crack up the centre of the final buttress just right of a tree. Belay at the top on flat ledges.

Tree belay at end of 1st, 3rd and 4th pitches. Peg, nut and stake belay at end of 2nd pitch. The second pitch is the standout. Beware the polish.

Through broken rock to the left of a V grove, then tend right to an anchor, right of the thin seam.

V Grove to ledge then up.

Move up onto the pedestal and make the first easy clips. Ascend the wide crack making full use of the welcome borehole; then, at its top, make a tricky pull up right to better holds. Perfect finger slots in the thin crack above lead to more positive holds and a romp up the mini-ramp to a double ring abseil.

Two pitches both around 25m up to the Great Ledge. The original top pitch is no longer available due to access considerations.

The first pitch is a 4b due to a difficult (for the grade) overhang but well protected by a peg.

The second pitch is a 4a, but has a bold section above 2 pegs for around 6m that is only protected by micro-wires.

Tree belay, and abseil station to the right on the Great Ledge - a pair of 50m ropes just reach the ground.

Go direct following the line of 5 bolts before completing an easy traverse to the lower off of 'Still Stuck on You'.

Midway between Boris and the Three Amigos is a prominent square-cut arête with an attractive orange sidewall (that’s immediately visible on high as you enter the quarry). This gives an excellent strenuous pitch starting up the white arête and climbing the steep breccia speckled crack with some big flowing moves linking some unobvious holds. Make sure you keep to the crack at the top (as you pass the last bolt runner) before reaching down right to clip the double ring abseil station.

Marked start in a corner with obvious rockfall. Nice sustained jamming, considered a classic of the grade.

A great natural line though it features two bolts and a lower off shared with 'Short of a Smile'.

Broken rock then left facing corner system

Long bolted line just right of the NE corner of Woodcroft Quarry. 19 bolts + 2 bolt lower-off (but there's at least one you can skip if your short of quickdraws).

60m rope only just reaches the ground when lowering, please take care. An alternative with a shorter rope is to multi-pitch the route from the first terrace.

Watch out for loose stones when belaying.

Climb the corner with holds out left until the route moves onto the main wall. Climb up to the bulge and, after clipping the bolt, move right to hidden hold out right and small jug a reach above. Climb over the budge and upward until a small traverse left is required. Climb up again until some more suspect rock on the left allows you to get to just below and left of the top out. Bridge out right using diagonal holds to reach the abseil station.

Third pitch crux is good value for VS. Start at the right hand side of the cliff (north wall) and follow the obvious crack line in the corner over the small overhangs. Belay on the first decent tree. continue behind the belay, up a corner groove and over another small roof to a big tree belay again. Now go slightly left then back up right a few metres to near another tree and climb up from there to the base of the obvious slab with the overlap at the top. Moves up the slab past a finger ledge to the overlap are quite tricky and would be very bold but for the peg. Pull over and belay on the great terrace. The 4th pitch looks terrible, better to finish up right hand route (straight up through the obvious v-notch in the overhangs then up the easy chimney), or you can just reach the ground from the great ledge with an abseil on double 50m ropes.

Follow large broken rock to ledge, then a series of small holds tending slightly right to an anchor in a niche.