Vie in Africa del grado selezionato

This line follows the prominent dark continuous crack halfway between Incy Wincy Spider and the arete. Step off the blocks into the crack that runs up the left hand side of a bright patch of orange lichen. Pass a rail and move slightly left at the level of the grey split bulge to clip the chains above.

Climb the black crack starting from the top of the bush to the top.

Start 1m right of the demarcation line of lichen and dark rock, where the gully begins to rise. An obvious red-coloured hold is some 4m above the ground. Straight up on thin holds to easier ground at 6m. Continue to top.

Starts under the huge overhanging amphitheatre of SIDEWALK. The route climbs the easy wall directly into the amphitheatre, then avoids the roof by a traverse to the left. Start directly below the left hand corner of the amphitheatre.

1. 35m 10 Ascend the wall directly to the corner in the left of the huge amphitheatre and belay at base of corner.

2. 20m 19,A1 Climb up the corner crack until a step left can be made onto the steep slab near the top of corner crack. Follow traverse line across slab until tricky move up enables one to gain the crack. Climb this until a step left around the corner can be made to reach another crack. Up this using 2 aid points before long reach enables one to swing left and up to a good ledge.

3. 25m 10 Step right onto the arete and follow this to top.

Start to the right of Juggernaut up a crack system that moves up and slightly right across the steep face to join the Y-shaped recess on Cat’s Pyjamas. Head straight up the face above, then a short arête and then a final bungle with an intermittent crack on the right hand side. Scramble up to the big ledge. Abseil point to the left.

"The name is better than the climb"

Start: The route starts at the same place as Valken Surprise.

1. Climb up the edge of the blocks for 5m then hand-swing right on a rail above. Continue up a corner on the right to a stance.

2. Move left up a lichen covered face, then zig-zag up obvious breaks to a stance. This stance is shared with Valken Surprise 5th stance if the above description is used.

3. Move up a brown face to a prominent overhang above, then follow the only break through that overhang by jamming the feet and lying out horizontally to reach the grips above. Pull through and up the face, which brings one onto the large ledge that forms part of the "D" route, approximately halfway up the bottom sections. The climb continues up the prominent vertical face above.

4. Take the obvious recess which requires a short traverse move in order to bring one diagonally up to a "right-hand" stance. The occasional Climbers Friend indicates the line of ascent.

5. From the left side of the stance, move diagonally left to a small stance. The only break is up the broken face on the right, for 6-8m, followed by difficult diagonal moves for another 6m left into a small crack (off balance). Continue up the crack to a stance above.

It's possible to either traverse off here, or scramble up the rocky section above.

Start: In a corner with black (zebra) streaks on each side Climb the layback crack to the small platform, continue up into the recess and right to the top out.

Opened at 19

Behind the left side of the pinnacle is a obvious crack.

Climb the crack to the top, traverse left to 'Undercling' lower-offs. Try not to use the pinnacle.

The route starts between 'Pinnacle Route' and 'Pink Corner' and goes up the right hand side of the prominent red wall between the two routes.

1. 12m 5 Scramble up the obvious recess to a broad ledge below the red wall.

2. 18m 19 Climb the vague break directly above the recess of the first pitch, bearing left just above a bolt (found in place by the opening party). Belay on a small stance on the right, close to the belay on 'Pink Corner'.

3. 24m 19 From the top of the last pitch, climb up for about 1,5m before moving right, then up a further 1,5m until it is possible to move left into a corner. Climb the corner to the top.

Start a few metres right of 'Easy Street' and climb the right break on the prominent wall.

The start is situated about 8m upstream from where Cedarberg Kloof joins Lower Tonquani.

1. [13] 15m

   Move diagonally up left over broken face to good ledge with tree. (This involves an awkward mantle shelf move.)

2. [18] 12m

   From left hand end of ledge move 4,5m up recess to square ceiling. Using fist-jam/layback technique climb up 90o open book to wide ledge. (A great pitch)

3. [11] 30m

   Scramble up 4,5m then move left around corner. Up 6m of broken portion of steep face to larger ledge. Walk left 4,5m along ledge and climb diagonally right up ramp to top.

1. The Slab Pitch: 30m 15 Climb the slab to the left of the first pitch more or less straight up to the big ledge.

2. Monkey Wee, Monkey Poo: 25m 18 From the top of pitch 1 traverse left for 5m to a chimney/crack. Ascend this with awkward moves.

The original way to the summit. Really only one pitch of climbing, the rest is an easy solo if comfortable with exposure. There is 2 fixed hand made pegs that look to be from original ascent. Start on the NE side of Jebal Take North. scramble up broken slabs to reach a ledge with a left facing corner for a long 60m pitch. Then continue up to a plateau and cross to Jebal Taka main summit. Wander up the face following faint crack lines left then right.

One of the few routes to face south, this line is at the very right end of the crag and starts in a open book/crack before stepping onto the left face, past a small protrusion to a rail, then onto the top. Best of luck coming down as the opening party got lost trying to walk off.

Start at the end of the Owl ledge, as for Magrathea. Climb down and left for two metres, and then up on thin holds to a rail passing to the left of a small roof (unprotected except for the peg on Winnie-the-Pooh). Climb directly up the face above on thin holds.

Takes the obvious corner immediately downstream of CROOKED CRACK. A tree is growing at the base of the climb in a recess.

1. 25m 19 Climb the recess to the base of the open book (corner). Ascend the open book (crux) using small wires for protection. Exit slightly right to a small stance. Climb the steep face above to a tree belay on the wide grass ledge.

This climb is situated on the buttress just upstream of the attractive face with KB4 and ABSENTIA on it. The climb follows the downstream arete with a large tree projecting out from the base of the climb. A prominent gully with a cave recess is found just downstream of the climb.

1. 30m 19 Climb the short face with roots to the right. Follow the open book moving right when the face steepens, continue up to a small overhang. Move left and up to a block. Continue up the arete using lugs (layback holds) until another small overhang is reached. Move left again and pull through on good holds. Continue up to small ledge.

2. 12m 13 Move up to the rail, then leftward to a small stance, and then traverse right to the crack system. Follow this to top.

Note: A good clean enjoyable route.

Follow the crack to chains at the top.

Chains are in bad shape.

A direct start of Harbinger. https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/maroc/tafraout/harbinger-maroc-and-wall-tifghalt-lower-crag/

Halfway down FROG GULLY there is a broad ledge on the true right hand side of the gully. The route starts 3m to the right of a tree at a point where the branches touch the rock (cairn).

1. 22m 19 Pull onto face, 1m right of its undercut base and ascend directly to large block on the left. Make a rising traverse right to gain the finger-jam crack at the base of the open groove containing a tree. Ascend the groove to a good ledge.

2. 25m 15 From stance make rising traverse right for about 4m to gain a series of large knobbles and then ascend the thin crack above. Pull over the bulge above, step left and continue directly up the pillar above. Finish up the flake-crack on the left.

Move up onto face (crux), move right and up diagonally right using jugs to the top. Move left just below overhang to finish route.

The climb is situated on the same face as DIVE BOMBER and about 12m downstream of it. The face on which these two climbs are located is directly opposite the normal entrance into Grootkloof. About 6m downstream of the start of HEFFALUMP TRAP, the face breaks up right to form a large recessed gully. The climb starts opposite a large boulder in the stream, which forms a minor waterfall into a pool below. By stepping diagonally left from the boulder onto the face one is now over the small pool.

1. 15m 19 Step off the boulder left and up over easy rock to a large ledge which runs left into the corner of the face (3m 15). In the right hand corner of the ledge is an A-shaped cave recess which is topped by a small overhang. Climb this recess to its apex (5m 9), break out via a straddle and move up onto the ledge above the overhang (1,5m 21). Gain a few metres in height from the ledge and traverse by a series of undercut holds left (3m 17) and then up to a ledge (3m 17).

2. 12m 13 Ascend the face directly above via a crack and move right onto a ledge on top of the open book forming the right-hand edge of the belay stance (6m 11). Traverse to the right for (3m 9) and then ascend to a stance via a broken recess in the face (3m 10). Here one can continue to the top via an indifferent scramble, or traverse off right to the base of PHOENIX.

Note: The grade 21 move can be protected by means of a sling placed level with and to the right of it on a liana creeper. This involves some scrambling. A technically pleasing climb which is well protected.

The route takes the groove in the centre of the upstream face of CENTENARY PINNACLE approximately midway between that route and TWILIGHT CAPERS.

1. 20m 18 Ascend the groove to the large ledge below the bulge by lunging from step to step.

2. 18m 17 Surmount the bulge at the left extremity of the ledge and follow the arête and subsequent chimney to the top.

To the left of 'Tweedledee' is a prominent slanting corner capped by a large overhang on 'Sinister' (see the photograph). To the right of this corner are three grooves, the first two leading to a slab and the third one continues up the face. Start directly below the third groove.

1. 18m 19 Gain the base of the groove with a difficult move and up it for 2½ m (poor peg runner). Make difficult lay-away moves up rightwards to the right arete, where good holds lead up to a small stance and good nut belay below a small overhang.

2. 9m 15 Descend 1½ m and traverse left into the groove then across the left wall to a large block stance and peg belay.

3. 28m 15 Gain the shallow groove directly above the stance and from the bulge (9m) move diagonally up right towards the top of the original groove. Move as high as possible then step down across the groove and continue up the groove to a move right below a nose. Up the recess on the right to a peg belay on top of the nose. A very enjoyable pitch.

4. 30m 8 Scramble to the top.

About 20' right of the previous route is an obvious offwidth crack. Climb crack to the block belay on 'Here Be Dragons', then finish up this route by climbing the crack above.

Historic route number: 78

Follow pitch 1 of Knobless Robot until you reach the traverse out right (which would have taken you to the original stance). Instead of moving out right, follow the crack directly up to the small ledge. Can be done as 2 pitches (stance on the small ledge before the traverse out left).

What a joy this old classic is for the way it sorts out Lukenia climbers who can't get up cracks. There used to be a tree 9m up, which has now disappeared, adding to the quality of the climbs. Begin by thin crack in main bay where three or four technical moves leads to the overhang. Traverse left 1m and up flake to tricky move left to ledge (where the tree used to be). Move up a few feet and crux move into crack on right which is climbed to easier laybacking. Move left to gully and abseil cable.

Downstream from TIGATRIX there is a large arch on the true left. HANGDOG climbs the centre of the left pillar of the arch. SIDEWALK climbs the inside (upstream) corner of the right pillar, then rails right. This route takes the front of the right hand pillar, then the shallow open book and crack on the left arête of the right hand pillar. Start from the large flat-topped boulder just above the lower swimming pool. This is directly below HANGDOG. Scramble up to a grassy ledge, scramble/traverse right to a corner and scramble/climb up to a good platform below the right hand pillar. It might be a good idea to use a rope for this scramble.

1. 30m 19 Climb the face on the front of the pillar to below the big roof. Rail left to the arête and pull around the overhang to get into the base of the shallow open book. Step right to a foot ledge and climb the thin crack until able to step back left into the shallow open book. Climb to the rail and rail right to the arête (shared with SIDEWALK). Step right onto the front of the pillar and climb jugs to the top.

Notes:

1. Small cams and wires are useful.

2. The route was cleaned of loose rock before being led.

Climb a direct line up the face directly between Come take a Trip in My Air-Ship and Drive on.

Start: 6m right of Valken Wall, left of a large tree. That would also be 26m right of the "D" route start, and within 10m of the end of the West facing wall.

1. Climb the broken face left of the tree for 9m. Continue left to a ramp, then lay back the ramp to a stance shared with Valken Corner.

2. Continue directly above the stance via the left hang overhanging corner to a large stance.

3. Climb a short face above a bush, continue right, then up a corner to a small stance next to a loose block.

4. Climb to a hand rail beneath the overhang above the block, then traverse right for 2m on small grips until it is possible to proceed upwards to a higher hand rail. Continue to the right corner. Climb up, then continue via a short recess and face to the large ledge above.

5. Walk diagonally left to the base of a shallow, brownish recess left of Valken Corner. Straddle up on sparse grips to a piton via the most feasible route, then move diagonally left to a one man stance.

6. Move left 1m round the corner the climb up bearing right, in the process using a lay back move to gain a face. Continue up the face for 10m, then move left up to a narrow ledge. traverse 8m right along the ledge, down 2m, continue to the corner then finally climb up to a comfortable stance.

7. Climb up a recess bearing left. Turn the overhang to the left in order to avoid the loose flakes on the right. Continue straight up to a stance.

8. Climb the face avoiding bush, then continue via some slabs to the top of the buttress.

Short but engaging start to finish-technical

, one of the best in the 'Valhella Area'

Start: the next column right of 'Valkyrie' Climb the obvious crack to the top.

Start in a corner capped by a triangular roof

Start 2m left of the corner on a flat wedged block. Stand on top of the wedged block and head up the thin right facing corner to the roof, rail left onto a small ledge. Cut back right to a short crack (almost inline with the route start) Climb the crack to stance.

1. [16] 15m

   ???

2. [18] 25m

   ???

3. [19] 20m

   ???

4. [16] 30m

   ???

The climb ascends the steep red wall immediately left of 'Skeleton' and follows the arete to the top. Ascend the slab to the left of 'Skeleton' cave and chockstone belay, below the corner.

1. 18m 18 A meter-and-a-half left of the corner taken by 'Skeleton' is a shallow groove running up the red wall. Ascend this (18) for 6m, then follow good incut holds up leftwards to the arete. Continue up the arete to a ledge and peg belay.

2. 12m 13 Continue up the arete to the top.

This climb starts at stream level, about 10m downstream of 'Breakfast in Bed' .

1. [11] 20m

   Scramble up nondescript rock to large flat ledge with steep overhanging face ( 'Ivory Madonna' ) on left.

2. [18] 15m

   Climb chimney/crack to right of steep overhanging face with crack up centre. The crux is near the top.

Note:

Being small may be an advantage, but opening party managed even though they both were taller than 1,92m. i.e. grade is 19 for larger persons and as easy as 16 for smaller persons.

See trip report here: https://www.mck.or.ke/new-climbs/the-shnoz-5-9-330m-at-ololokwe/

Alternate direct start: climb straight up to the palm tree just beneath the start of the third pitch, following the obvious nose that joins the feature above. 5.8x, second half of pitch unprotected but solid rock. Avoids the traverse pitch. (FA: James Mixon, Nicolle Richards, December 2019)

To the left of the first pitch of INVALID is a relatively smooth slab, capped by a roof. The route climbs this slab. Start 5m left (downstream) of the corner ascended by FALSE INVALID, that is halfway between a small, downstream-facing corner and the large tree.

1. 15m 18 Climb to the rail under the overlap. Gain the slab above at the point where the overlap is the smallest. Climb the slab, trending leftwards to a long narrow ledge at 10m. Delicately step onto the top of the block/flake (seems solid), and hand traverse right along the obvious rail to an alcove belay stance and tree (this is on INVALID). Rap from the tree.

Notes:

1. A Mhlabatini rarity - a slab. Similar in style to QUICK SILVER. Great climbing. Small gear required.

The route starts from the Tea Cave ledge directly where the abseil comes down from the bolted anchors (between Naught For Your Comfort on the left and Aquanaut on the right).

1. 20m (19): Pull up onto the steep white face and climb directly via a pocket and a thin gear placement to the ledge above. Cross over Aquanaut (which traverses left here) and move up to below a bulge. Pull straight through the bulge and continue to the bolted anchors. Cross the huge ledge to the start of the next pitch of Clifton Crest. Pitch 2 of Codgernaut takes the face between Crest’s corner and Excaliber, which climbs the front of the Gendarme.

2. 25m (18): Move up Crest for about 2 metres, then step to the right to gain the white face just to the left of a precarious looking jutting out block. Blast straight up the middle of the face past a few rails, till you reach a deep hollowed out rail about two-thirds of the way up the face. Step right and using a hollow flake, which forms the top of the rail, move up and right to gain the left edge of the Gendarme. Climb the edge on thin grips till it eases at the ledge above (this last section up the edge is shared with Excaliber). Follow either Excalber or Clifton Crest to the higher ledge and the abseil anchors.

From the Totiel tea houses hike up to the south ridge of Jebel Totiel for 1 hour. Pitch 1 starts in the groove as you scramble onto the cliff. An easy 5a pitch for 50m. The pitch seems to have 3 variations from the same starting point and all have fixed anchors at the belay. From any of the belays scramble up and left to the base of the next wall. Climb the stacked blocks (4a) to reach a bolt with ring. The second pitch starts here. Pitch 2 50m (6a) Up the unprotected slab to the base of the obvious corner. Climb corner past the tree to make the ledge out left at the end of the corner and belay on bolts. Pitch 3 (4a) traverses far left before heading straight up on easier rock and belay off blocks. There is a single rap bolt further right which lines up with the previous belay. Single rack of cams 60m doubles to descend route Faces south so you will get cooked in the sun if you don't start early. 1 hour to the base of route, 2 hours to summit

Follow the curved break above and to the right of Tight Arsed Egomaniacs

Route follows the short overhanging corner situated 20m downstream of the prominent buttress taken by BAKED BEEN. Start by scrambling up 14m from the stream to a flat ledge under the corner crack. [B – 10]

1. 12m 18 Surmount the lower bulge on good jams and follow the crack up to beneath a small lip. Move up through the overhanging bulge to finish in a square recess. Scramble to the top or abseil from the second tree behind the recess.

The climb starts in the base of the recess 4m to the right of 'KB One'. There is a rhombohedral overhang about 20m up.

1. 38m 18 Climb the recess past small trees to the overhang. Pull through the notch in the overhang to the ledge. Traverse 1,5m left under the second overhang, up the face for 3m and back right into the recess above the second overhang. Climb the recess and rib above to the top.

Note: Climbing through the second overhang was done by the second at 19.

This route is found on the left of the narrow slot as you walk from the descent gully to the Apathy wall. This starts at a waist-high step on a grey patch or rock. Head straight up past several finger rails, then continue more or less straight to the top. The gear past the first few rails is a little tricky for a few meters, so take care.

Starts in FROG GULLY 7m to the right of AERODYNAMICS. Scramble up 5m to large cubbyhole at base of route (cairn).

1. 15m 19 Climb up steep grooves on back of cubbyhole-recess until they close up necessitating wide bridging to reach tree.

2. 20m 15 Straddle up to base of chimney and wriggle to top (strenuous).

Climb the steep ridge about 5m right of Kakibos. Move up on good holds through the overhang/roof.

Climbs the arete avoided by the first pitch of CANDLEHORSE.

1. 20m 19 Start just above stream level in a short dark corner. Climb the corner and exit right and up to CANDLEHORSE's horizontal break. Climb up the arete on it's left hand side finally moving on to the front to finish up to a ledge.

Mostly bolted except first 8m up crack

At the left extremity of the amphitheatre above the second weir is a grey face neatly bisected by a vertical crack. The face does not come down to ground level. The route starts in the black overhanging open book below the face and tends diagonally rightwards ending through the pronounced curved off-width crack near the top.

1. 34m 19 Ascend the overhanging open book on jams into the recess above (5m). Move right of the small overhang into another open book. Ascend to a point underneath the roof above. Break right onto the adjacent face and ascend this to gain the base of the off-width crack. Thrutch awkwardly up the crack until the top of the shield can be reached. Swing right onto the face and mantle onto the top of the shield. From its right-hand extremity pull up onto the big belay ledge. Scramble off.

Note: Protection is good on this pleasing route.

About 200m right of 'Eureka Gully' is a prominent sharp arete extending almost the full height of the crag. Immediately left is an obvious corner with a triangular overhang at 2/3 height and on its left is a black wall capped by overhangs. The route follows the corner to the triangular overhang, then traverse left and directly through the top overhang where they funnel up to the high point. (See photograph.) Scramble up the grass slope to the base of the corner (30m 8). or alternatively climb the rock spur on the left and traverse right to the base of the corner (43m 8). Peg belay.

1. 34m 19 Climb 8m up the corner past a grassy ramp then traverse 8m diagonally left to a grass ledge on the face (peg runner). Move a few metres above the ledge and traverse back right into the corner just above a small overhang. Climb up the corner until forced onto the left face below a bulge, and up to a small stance and peg belay.

2. 25m 17 Move diagonally up leftwards and up a shallow groove to a ledge on the left at 9m (peg runner). Continue up the groove and the face above as far as possible (6m) until a move right can be made into the corner crack. (Moving into the bottom of the crack is much harder.) Follow the corner crack then move leftwards and up to a large chock belay 9m below the overhang.

3. 17m 17 Climb up the corner mainly on the right wall to a chock runner under the overhang, then move down and traverse 8m left about 2m below the overhang to a ledge and peg belay.

4. 23m 15 Continue the traverse left 2m below the overhang then move up onto the arete. Traverse a further 6m and climb 3m up the wall then traverse back right to the small ledge, and peg belay just above the overhang.

5. 43m 19 Climb up leftwards to the base of the steep crack which threads the final overhangs (15m). Climb up to a shallow recess then up the left wall directly to the crack above the bulge (last 5m on small holds). From here continue easily to the top.

Note: The route is much better than general 'Skeerpoort' climbs, providing sustained climbing and a fitting climax through the final overhangs.

Variant of P2 of FIG JAM.

Deservedly popular, a superb route which is an excellent introduction to harder Frog climbing. Start 15' right of the 'Here Be Dragons' corner beneath a steep wall with a thin crack at 10'. Climb to the crack and continue up ieftwards, making a delicate step left onto the slab (bolt above on right). Move up past a second bolt, step right and up to crack. Follow the crack past the tree to the top.

Historic route number: 80

Climb the short face (far left of crag), then easily up to base of overhanging block with vertical crack. Gain the crack with some effort and continue to ledge.

Start left of 'The South East Corner' on a medium block. Step off the block and climb the recess to a small ledge. Climb up and right to the rail/ undercling, pull around the bulge into the right tending hand crack system to top out.

All that is great about Lukenia climbing. Start about 6m right of Gone With The Wind where there is a bolt some 4m up cliff. The title says it all. A gently overhanging wall which does not let up for 20m. Never desperate but tricky low down near the bolt. Four lunges follow to an easier but thrilling overhang and bolt belay on the wall above same as for Gone With the Wind. Either lower off here or climb unexciting wall above to top. It has become a classic and deservedly so.

Starts 7m upstream and opposite CEDARBERG RECESS. Scramble up to ledge (10m) approximately 5m to the left of LONDON TOWN and FLAT DOG.

1. 12m 19 Move up recess to roof. Move left around roof (crux) and move up to second roof. Traverse right 2m across slab and pull up onto belay ledge (loose blocks).

2. 25m 17 Climb up open book above (5m) and traverse 4m to the right. Move up steep rock above and traverse to the left under the roof to a tree. Move up through the gap in the roof and up the steep wall above to the top. (A steep and exposed pitch for its grade.)

A squeeze between Cash Connection and 'Orphan of the Road'. Startup Cash Connection and step right to pull past left side of the low, small, square roof. Follow a vague seam, which is left and parallel to the Orphan of the Road crack. A tad run out. From the ledge straight to the top.

1. The base has a big step of 2.5m in the middle, start here and take the face above to the ledge, then head over easy ground to stance at the foot of the Step Over Block.

2. From the block's left corner closest the cliff take the arete to the top.

Start above and right of 'Melting Pot' Climb the crack to the top.

Climb past 2 bolts to a break. Continue up the dark unlikely looking rock directly above tending very slightly left to easier ground. Don’t be tempted into the corner and cracks on the left but climb easily straight up on the face to a lower off.

A very straight line up the face, passing the large cream flake on it's right, then up right side of face. Tricky move over to gain ledge then straight to anchor.

The climb starts about 30m upstream from the start of 'Hospital Hill', at a point where a tall tree is growing close to the cliff. Beginning up a small chimney and continues up an attractive open book to a small tree, then traverses left over Lobotomy and back right again to finish straight up above the starting point.

1. 20m 11 Climb up chimney and open book until you reach a small stance with a small tree.

2. 40m 19 From the stance move slightly right and up for 3m to a small rest point on a large sloping ramp. Then traverse left for 7m (strenuous) to a very exposed rest point below a large semi detached flake. Move around the flake on the left and continue rightwards (awkward), then move rightwards (10m) to a small ledge with 2 good pegs in place.

3. 15m 13 Traverse left for 15m and then climb up short steep face above, between 2 large aloes to the top.

Note: A pleasant and exposed route spoilt by poor protection and bad rock.

This climb is situated in the huge chimney recess 50m downstream of the Cedarberg / Tonquani junction, starting about 15m to the right of 'Reign Of Fire'.

1. [18] 25m

   Climb the crack system on the left hand wall of the huge recess/chimney (looking inward) i.e. climb the cracks to the overhang, pull through small overhang, traverse left for about 1m then continue up to ledge just above tree.

2. [13] 25m

   Move up recess behind stance for 1 to 2m then move right onto exposed nose of buttress. Continue up for about 5m exiting right to tree belay.

Note:

Very pleasant route on good rock, good exposure on second pitch. For descent abseil off good tree at top of second pitch (one 45m abseil sufficient).

Likely has been a repeat ascent of Brothers in Arms.

Repeating groups should be able to complete the climb without an overnight bivouac. (Editors note – One person who has climbed it twice bivvied ¾ of the way up both times)

1. 170ft 5.9/HVS 5a/18. Start up an obvious flake that works its way from left to right. There is limited protection at the top of the flake, unless you have very large Camelot’s (#5-6). Use long runners to avoid rope drag. Pull out left on to the face and start a heady climb towards any protection you can find. There are a couple placements for micro cams or TCUs, but they are sparse. Work back right on a poorly protectable slab climbing aiming towards a lone palm tree. A perfect vertical crack above the tree provides solid placements for a gear anchor. Quite cheeky.

2. 175ft 5.7/ Severe 4c. Work up and right from the tree anchor on easy but flaky climbing that works its way towards obvious trees. Potential crack placements exist, if willing to excavate, but the climbing is easy enough to pretty well run it all the way to the trees. Proceed to a second group of trees. Work right towards to a blocky shelf that provides decent protection. Take caution not to launch any of the loose blocks on this section. Continue up from the shelf slight right to a small flake; be cautious of smaller loose blocks below flake. Traverse left of flake to anchor on the obvious blocky shelf.

3. 160ft 5.7 Severe 4b/c. Move up and right onto a steep slab, which is followed, with no protection, up to the right until a move across right gains access to a chimney. This is followed to a large jammed block belay.

4. 120ft 5.7/Severe 4b. Traverse right from the belay at an incline on loose shattered rock, little options for decent protection, reach the left hand side of the main wall. Then go up the vertical scree until you belly flop onto a flat area with an obvious rock for safe belay.

5. 170ft 5.8 /Severe 4b. Climb up to the left, either choosing easy loose or slightly harder better rock to its left. Reach a small wall with pockets for both gear and hands. Move up left and after a couple of nice mantel shelves traverse up left to belay.

6. 140ft Scramble. Move up from belay onto easy ground. Which is followed up and left through vegetation to a large flake belay in the middle of the left hand wall of the huge diedre.

7. 170ft 5.8/ Very Severe 4c. Approach the wall at a small shelf and proceed to traverse left 15 feet. Direct your gaze up the vertical wall and indulge your eyes in the glory revealed, protection & solid holds! Make your way up and left to the obvious tree and large boulder. As this is the first pitch to not crumble in your hands, take your time to relish in the climb. For those seeking exposure, grasp onto one of the many solid pink crystallized quartz clusters and glance downward from this vertical face to the 1000 feet view below.

8. 170ft Scramble. Move up left of the mini over hang and then pick your way up and left towards the tree lined corner of the bivvy site.

9. 120ft 4a/b. Exit bivvy ledge on the left out onto the slabs. Traverse up and left on short rock walls and grassy ledges to below final steep rock wall. Balance up on good holds onto unprotected slabs above, which are followed to a good belay on a large block. Summit.

This route is below the lower campsite (between CLEVER and CREDIT CARD CULT). It takes a line up a striking orange face flanked on either side by recesses.

1. 8m 19 Start in the middle of a grey slab and climb on thin holds to a stance at a tree.

2. 15m 18 Start on blocks on left and climb up 3m before moving 1m right. Climb straight up from there.

Climb the blunt arete to the right of Lookout. At the small ledge, pull up onto the fin (sounds hollow, but seems solid) and move strenuosly up and slightly right. Finish up the ramp to the broad ledge.