Ascensioni in Blue Mountains come Clean come trad da davedave

Piddo day - star chasing

p1, cleaning after JDs awesome lead, heady laybacking crux. Finger didn't seem to mind

Woop woop, climbs even better then it looks.

yoyo I guess ?? Cleaning up pats 3/4 lead

Second in approachies, was a bit relucant to get back on it but feels like a must for each trip

First pitch only

So much funsies

Decided to change it up and not wear approachies and fall off. Used as access to P2 flake

Feels much more placid on the blunt end in approachies. Definately recommend the ~#1 cam slot out left rather than the nut behind marginal flake at the steepness.

good enough.

No stuck cams today

Warm ups

Finally actually climbed the route, by which I mean on TR.

Bolt protected crux

P1 - usual slabbing with spaced bolts/gear essentially P1 of Juliet, to right of the two DBB on the slab.

P2 - out left and up following spaced bolts supplemented by gear through steepness, followed by some more lower angle climbing with less gear than would be ideal.

Felt easier than AMJ, but was seconding so hard to say. grAId calls this 16/17.

last pitch middle bolted into gear finish.

Would welcome an explanation of how these climbs managed to score an anchor of about 15 bolts past and present...and it still looks jank. Two well placed stainless glue ins and some cammo chopped bolts anyone ???

The usual mix of average to middling gear in the horizontal wander of the first pitch to the cave (many carrot inc. stainless GIMB with fixed hanger belay anchor) - probably worth keeping seconds low to ease rope mx.

Short second pitch out left of cave past dragons head, modern glue in bolt protected crux and up to top.

Note - accessed via abseil gully - anchor massive non-stainless industrial eye bolt and some non-stainless carrots.

Loose block/flake at 2/3 could prolly go a trundle