Ascensioni in Camels Hump da Dave Scarlett

Hard! Took about a dozen attempts before I got it. Very sequency hand movements combined with poor feet. Gets slightly easier the higher you get.

Not quite there yet... Got up to the third jug, but couldn't quite commit to the crimp and bring my other hand (or dangling feet) up.

Fell on the first bolt a couple of times before figuring out the moves.

Surprisingly nice. Very bouldery crux moves past the first bolt, then thin, slabby and crimpy moves to finish. Consensus of 6 climbers who attempted it was that it was grade 22, or 23 if you're short.

Ridiculously reachy and bouldery start, going from wide left to wide right, to wide left. Still a little delicate getting up to the 2nd bolt, but eases from there.

Finally had an attempt at the onsight... and didn't quite make it. Fell on the 3rd bolt, then rested (probably unnecessarily) on the 5th.

Bouldery start becoming easier when clipping first two bolts, then crux moves getting to and past 3rd bolt. Excellent rest at 4th bolt, one difficult move getting up arête from 5th, then jugs to the top.

Thin, delicate, and bouldery, on small crimps and a super-sharp finger pocket. Clipping the second bolt is difficult and has definite groundfall potential. Recommend climbing on double ropes (or folding a single in half) to avoid that.

Thought Camel's Hump would be ok on a dry day in between two rainy days. I thought wrong. The crux finger crack was wet, slimy and horrible.

No way this is only 21. 22 more like it. Gets incredibly blank around the last bolt(s)* and I had to pull on a draw to get past there.

Steep, crimpy and pumpy start leads to juggy horizontal crack, then crux above getting past last bolt, and finally a moderate slab above with a big flake available on the arête.

Gear: Cams around BD#0.4 size for the first crack, possible #1 in crack above that, and finally a finger-size cam or small-medium nuts for the flake on the slab.

* The bolting is very confusing. The final bolts are a fixed hanger near the arête, and a ringbolt level with it 1m to the right. The left bolt feels much easier to get to, unless you're doing 'Sluts Alliance'. There's also a hanger way out left and below the first ringbolt, which could be for a left variant start, or for 'Biker Mice From Mars'. Stick clipping the first ring and climbing from below it offers a nice start.

Fell on the second bolt a couple of times while trying to figure out a good clipping position for the 3rd bolt, which I didn't find in the end. Think double ropes or a long draw would be good next time to reduce the consequences of a clipping fall.

Very nice. Bouldery start then thin moves on the face. Unfortunately the final bolt isn't in a great position, as the crux is below it, and is quite run out from the previous bolt. By the time you reach the final bolt, the difficult climbing is all over, and there's trad placements available anyway if you want protection for the easy finish. If that bolt were a metre lower, then it could protect the crux.

Finally ticked it. A long quickdraw for the 3rd bolt definitely made that clip a lot more comfortable.

Tree to the left of the boulder seems to have gotten a lot bigger and is seriously encroaching on this route. Still looks possible at maybe V1-V2 with a sit-start.

Didn't find any slopers during the finish... Seemed to be just a series of jugs once the initial jug was reached. Possibly felt more like V1.

Just getting off the ground is the hard part. Would probably be V0 if not for the sit start.

Gets seriously difficult when you reach the bolt. Obscenely reachy and bouldery moves to gain the poor, mossy ledge above the almost featureless wall containing the bolt, then up, strenuously, on a combination of jugs and crimps. Large horizontal crack below overhang will take a BD #4 cam easily, or a #3 if you find the narrowest sections. Got through the reachy crux cleanly, after backing off and returning to the ledge several times, but then pumped out while approaching the overhang.

Jugs. Definitely a lot softer than the claimed grade.

Crimpy and reachy.

Nice, but difficult to determine which holds to start on. Hard start gets much easier after reaching the first deep pocket. Wild mint growing underneath the climb made this the most delicious smelling boulder I've ever encountered.

Fun, but a little contrived, just because at any point you can go directly up at V0, as for 'Snot'.

The sit start provides all of the difficulty. After that it's jugs to the top.

Surprisingly good, after I gave it a decent brushing. Somewhat similar crux to Wishful Thinking, but more prolonged, harder, and further from the bolt. (But still very well protected.)

Packs surprising value into its short length.

Very thin at the start, but gets a lot easier after the second bolt. Stick-clip highly advisable!

Every time you think you're reaching for a jug, you get a disappointing, shallow crimp instead.

Went fine until the crux (little roof), then found myself no footholds, and a crack that narrowed down so much I couldn't even get fingers in. Maybe need to jam below the thin section of the crack and reach right up over it, possibly in combination with a crimp out right.

Brutally hard (though very well protected) crux for a 17! Found myself laybacking on a hand jam, trying to get a foot up on the ledge. A BD #3 size cam was very handy immediately after the crux.

Nice, but not the mega-classic it's made out to be. Easy start, then balancy, delicate, and run-out moves up the corner, and a fun, well protected crux finish traversing along the juggy flake and then up on difficult to find holds.

Frighteningly sparse gear through the corner at 1/2 height. Managed to get two cams in, a red and a blue, where the crack opens a metre below the hard moves there, but neither were ideal placements. That's definitely the mental crux, with the physical crux being the top of the finishing flake.

Bouldery start leads to a pumpy section with plenty of medium cam placements, then a rest ledge and bolt before the crux. It's wishful to think that being tall will make the "reachy" crux any easier.

Nice, bouldery start, but then gets much easier from there. Probably a bit soft for a 16.

Nice and consistent, easing off only at the end.

A very nice warm-up route. Maybe one of the best on the cliff?

Warm up. Lovely and cruisy. Had never noticed before just how dodgy the bolt is. Looks like an 8mm (or thinner?) thread with a bolt plate fixed to it!

Nice, but felt a little little awkward or contrived, as the easiest climbing tends rightward, taking you across the arete, but the bolts force you to keep moving left.

Tricky slab moves around the second bolt.

Nice and long, with a slabby, bolt-protected crux passing the obvious roof. The only runout section is the grade 15 start shared with Blind Sox, after that there's plenty of pro.

Had to brush aside plant growth to find some initial feet! Nice, juggy traverse.

Jugs. Some of them a bit sharp.

Apparently I'll climb anything that looks like it might offer a good hand jam.