Vie come artificiale in Scenic Rim

Start: About 100m right of the N.E. Buttress (see topo of start) in the shallow corner. The initial 1st belay block is now gone.

1. 47m 18 - Up the crack/corner.

2. 25m M4 - Up Right to bolt belay.

3. 16m 16/M1 - Step Right from top nut, up, free to tree belay(?).

4. 20m 12 - Stay left of mank gully, left up ramp.

5. 12m 13 - Crack to top.

Named after they spotted a girl on horseback that day. (Length of route is an approximation only)

Trevor's original notes: "trees" may no longer exist.

Start: About the same as for TCFR. Bolts + trad.

1. 45m 17 - From large tree left of a large right leaning corner crack, up steep slab trending right to the orange wall and DBB at overhanging corner.

2. 25m 22 - Up steeply into corner (careful of loose blocks), first bolt is high & natural placements available pretty sustained up corner then onto face following bolts to DBB. The best pitch!

3. 25m 23 A1 - Up face small cam placement in crack on left, trend right towards overhang (very tricky moves through the overhang) follow to the large ledge with a tree and DBB. (This pitch is run out and will need another bolt after the lip of the overhang)

4. 25m 21 - Follow BRs to DBB. You’ll need a dozen brackets for this pitch. (pitch 3 not free as yet & open to anyone)

Start: Unknown. "Easy free crack start. Mixed free + aid."

1. 47m 14/M3 - "Left from the overhang to bolt belay."

2. 37m 15 - "Up and across Right."

3. 34m 13 - "Stay Right, avoiding the mank."

4. 12m 13 - "Crack to top."

(Trevor's notes)

Start 30m right of Deception II tree (now a blackened stump).

1. 30m 16M2 - Climb Left under block, then up. 3 Aids at 15m.

2. 34m 16 - Right, under hanging block, up corner to top.

Start: Below cave.

RURP November 1969

Start: beneath cave.

RURP November 1969

"Start: The white line in the buttress. Start Right of Deep Purple.

1. 30m - Up, Left and up.

2. 37m - Start in back of cave, peg out under roof, then up the white line.

3. 15m - Last 15m free climbing.

"Superb climbing and positions - the best on the buttress."

RURP July/August 1972

(unfortunately neither Ron nor Tony can recall exactly where the route exited the cave or went from there.)

Quoted from RURP:

1. "Free up 6m, then peg up corner for 9m, move Right and up to another ledge.

2. "Continue up line to another ledge.

3. "Finish up Left line - free the last 12m.

"Good mixed climbing up a fine line."

RURP July/August 1972

(Ron cannot recall the details of this route, but I would suggest that it is Right of the cave.)

Start: at the top of the East Face - LH end (looking at the cliff), a bit back from the gully, almost on the corner of the gully, down a sloping ramp.

Pitches 1) - 4) Down the ramp, abseil, then traverse to pedestal, climb down the crack, traverse with aid to Phaedra, lower 25-30m, tension (pendulum) across 18m to The AntiChrist bush(!?).

Pitches 5) - 9) Traverse Right, up cracks to Beau Brummel ledge. Easily down groove, traverse Right to small cave below the crux of ROI (pitch 3).

Pitches 10) - 12) Up Ruby Of India to the top.

Although it reverses Party Trick, there is considerable new climbing. Varied climbing, mostly free, across an exposed wall.

Phaedra is an historical and adventurous climb, first envisioned by Rick White in 1969.

To gain access, proceed up the hiker's track, past Egg Rock, to a stand of Shea-oak, just below the Central Knoll:

East Face - Phaedra access topo

Start below the obvious rooflet halfway up the wall. Either belay on the ground or off a single ring on the ledge 10m off the ground.

★★ Phaedra 22 A1 - Phaedra - 1st belay

Cameron Fairbain,Simon Vos su ★★ Phaedra 22 A1 - Phaedra

1)45m 19 - Start up the slab past a peg, angling towards the finger crack, continue up this, heading towards the hanging flake on spaced but good gear. Pull over the flake up to a belay at a sloping ledge below the rooflet.

2)15m 20 - Clip the SS carrot (hard to spot) above the belay left of 3 rusty carrots. From the belay traverse left and up the shallow groove to the left side of the overhang. Traverse right under the roof past gear and 2 pitons. Pull through the roof, to the hanging belay at 2xRBs directly above.

★★ Phaedra 22 A1 - pitons under overlap

3)20m 19 - Proceed up the corner, to a crack and up to the base of the headwall for a hanging trad anchor. Below the bolt ladder.

4)35m 21 M1 - Climb up the old bolt ladder (4x) on the headwall to gain the slab (20/21) above past shallow gear to follow 3 carrot bolts (left trending) on the slab in a breath-taking position to the top & 2xRB belay in alcove on left.

Gear: small to medium cams, lots of wires, plates and a skyhook.

Rick & Paul pegged their way up p1 in 1969.

Rick White, Jeff Morgan & Ron Collett freed p1 (18 by their standards) & aided the whole route in October 1971.

Paul Hoskins & Joe Lynch freed p2 in 1983 (they would have freed p3, but Joe forgot his shoes.)

Fred From & Chris Frost freed p3 in 1983.

Jon Pearson came close to freeing p4 in the late 80s, and Glen Foley almost freed it in 2007.

From RURP September 1971: "The East Face of Maroon, a perfect line where the light and dark rock meet."

1. 30m 17 Zigzag up easy blocks, etc., to a small corner niche. Up steep wall to a foothold belay ledge.

2. 30m 18 Up to overhang, left and up, then back right and up to a ledge with a small bush, up another 7-8m to a slightly bigger ledge.

3. 24m 10/M5 Free 6m, then follow nebulous crackline to a bivy under the headwall.

4. 24m M7 Follow the line to a sloping shelf, hanging belay.

5. 12m 10 Up with a peg for aid in lose blocks. Belay at foot of corner.

6. 30m 14/M3 Up corner to top of a pedestal. Aids in poor, rotten, crack, free to top, block belay.

"Gear: rurps, skyhooks, bathhooks, microhexes, and blades up to 1.5 angle (plenty of knives + a few crackers)."

Has the distinction of being Australia's first 22.

Scramble/climb up the easy start next to ROI & onto the belay ledge. Starting in RH corner, trending left up weakness, then up, slightly right trending, into crack corner & up this to flaring off-width at top. Aid your way out to lip. then up over this to a good belay stance above.

Be wary of the original button bolts put in by Rick 47yrs ago; these are only 1" deep or so & hand-drilled.

Very rarely climbed, the route is rather chossy & vegetated.

(Estimates of freeing the downward flaring crack at the top start at around grade 27-28.)

Rick White in RURP September1972:

1-5) Up D2 to top terrace, walk left & belay on left ledge.

6-8) Climb down gully ca.20m (rope assist) to a traverse line. Traverse left, then up grassy corner to below crux of BB. Climb down crack (rope assist), traverse left & up to "AC" ledge.

9-11) Peg up to AC bivie bolts, lower down ca.25m & pendulum across to Phaedra bivi bolts, 8m below roof. Peg up past bolts to roof & then through roof to more bolts. Traverse left (2 pegs), lower or fall off a tied off knife blade, pendulum & tension with difficulty to bush(?). Up crack to magnificent perched belay.

12-13) Up diagonally left, through blocks. keep traversing: up short wall, then easy finish.

Ian Thomas: "Why wouldn't you want to complete the first girdle of a big exposed face, spend the night in a free hanging hammock, flail around on an 30m pendulum and scare yourself silly with hard aid?"

The impossibly thin crack left of Tough Mamma.

Start: The LH end of Tough Mamma Wall.

Free moves in groove at 25m. Abseil at top.

An excellent aid route, using only crackers. Take a good selection of small nuts & stoppers. (RURP 1973)