Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Falesia | Qualità | Arrampicatore | Data | |||
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29 | |||||||||
29 | FA ★★ Drowning Direct | 25m | Moonarie | 2003 | |||||
28 | |||||||||
28 | ★★ Animal Attrition | 40m | Moonarie | Gio 1 Lug 2004 | |||||
28 | ★★ Animal Attrition | 40m | Moonarie | ★★★ Classica | Sab 27 Mag 2006 | ||||
28 | ★★ Animal Attrition | 40m | Moonarie | Mar 13 Apr 2010 | |||||
28 | ★★★ Captain Attrition | 30m | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 28 Mag 2006 | ||||
28 | ★★★ The Womb Waltz | 35m | Moonarie | Mar 1 Apr 2003 | |||||
28 | ★★ Animal Attrition | 40m | Moonarie | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 3 Lug 2021 | ||||
Fell on the grade 19ish final corner after the 28 crux on my best attempt, doh! Will be back. Initial and final thirds of the climb are nothing special, but the middle third is an amazing sequence requiring precision, tension and power.
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28 | ★★ Animal Attrition | 40m | Moonarie | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 4 Lug 2021 | ||||
A bit out of my reach atm. Classy moves between the dishes
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28 | ★★★ The Womb Waltz | 35m | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Lun 18 Apr 2022 | ||||
Opening another project.
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V7 | |||||||||
V7 | ★★★ High Tension Power Line (HTPLV3 a.k.a High Tension Power Line V3) | 3m | Devil's Peak | ★★★ Mega Classica | Ven 7 Ott 2016 | ||||
Another Heddle classic! Might be one of my favourite lines ever!
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V7 | ★★★ High Tension Power Line (HTPLV3 a.k.a High Tension Power Line V3) | 3m | Devil's Peak | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 23 Lug 2017 | ||||
This boulder is ridiculously good
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V6 V7 | ★★★ Cowabunga | 3m | Devil's Peak | ★★ Molto buona | Mar 7 Apr 2020 | ||||
Climbed this line April 2020, but I think I started one move in from the description? Felt hard V6-ish but definitely lots of tension involved for a crimp ladder
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27 | |||||||||
27 | ★★★ Body Free Fall Direct Finish | Moonarie | ★★★ Classica | Ven 12 Mag 2006 | |||||
27 | ★★★ Yerba Mate | 70m, 5 | Moonarie | Gio 1 Lug 2004 | |||||
27 | ★★★ Two faced Guru | 25m | Moonarie | Gio 1 Apr 2004 | |||||
27 | ★★★ Body Free Fall Direct Finish | Moonarie | Gio 1 Lug 2004 | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Two faced Guru | 25m | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 11 Apr 2004 | ||||
PuSh 4th *
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27 | FA ★★★ meditations | 10 | Moonarie | Mar 1 Ott 2002 | |||||
27 | ★★★ Two faced Guru | 25m | Moonarie | Mar 13 Apr 2010 | |||||
27 | ★★★ Body Free Fall Direct Finish | Moonarie | ★★★ Classica | Lun 4 Ott 2004 | |||||
27 | ★★★ Two faced Guru - con Emil Mandyczewsky | 25m | Moonarie | ★★ Molto buona | Ven 26 Apr 2019 | ||||
2 laps. Awesome moves, though a single move shut down both Emil and I. Would be an awesome 27 (totally in my style) even without this one nails move. Steep, technical face-climbing with a dose of spurt-wall slimper glory. Going-ground up was heart-stopping with the bad-condition expansions, and the moving peg in the expanding flake. Needs some TLC to be resurrected as a classic. I managed to find placements for a few small wires, and rack of aliens to Yellow size.
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27 | ★★★ Trouble and Strife | 50m | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Mar 2 Apr 2019 | ||||
20 yr anniversary since its first ascent
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27 | ★★★ Meditations - con Matt Warner | 10 | Moonarie | Mer 7 Ott 2020 | |||||
Dogged the shit out of this. Matt thinks harder than 27. I'll believe it. Hanging belay with a seat was fun
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27 | ★★★ Meditations | 10 | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Lun 13 Set 2021 | ||||
What a line!!! Incredible climbing in an outrageous position, will definitely be back. Felt way harder than 27
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29 27 | ★★★ Meditations | 10 | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Lun 13 Set 2021 | ||||
Insane movement and position. 29 from everyone I've spoken too. Hard crux and then a heartbreaking move near the end.
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27 | ★★★ Meditations | 10 | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 19 Set 2021 | ||||
Another working session, all the moves are there just need to string it together.
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29 27 | ★★★ Meditations - con Rob Watson | 10 | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Lun 20 Set 2021 | ||||
Got post crux on redpoint, but the next crux is quite tough for me
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27 | ★★★ Meditations | 10 | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 17 Ott 2021 | ||||
Very good progress! All the crux sequences are wired, time to go for redpoints next season. Still probably the hardest route I've attempted
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29 27 | ★★★ Meditations | 10 | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 17 Ott 2021 | ||||
Getting closer. Will come back next year to finish it off. Mega.
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27 | ★★★ Yerba Mate | 70m, 5 | Moonarie | Mer 14 Giu 2023 | |||||
Just wanted to feel that mega jug, did not disappoint.
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27 Dura | ★★★ Yerba Mate | 70m, 5 | Moonarie | ★★★ Classica | Dom 26 Mag 2024 | ||||
2 star rock with 3 star moves, crux is super unlikely at the grade and contains the greatest knee ive ever dropped. Weirdly been retrobolted into a sport route by Epicol when theres perfect trad. Bolts are getting there...
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V6 | |||||||||
V6 | Valentine's Line | 4m | Devil's Peak | Lun 29 Apr 2024 | |||||
26 | |||||||||
26 | ★★ Buzzard Variant | 30m | Moonarie | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 19 Apr 2003 | ||||
IF short grab the nipplE
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26 | ★★★ Unreal P2 | 27m | Moonarie | ★★★ Classica | Gio 15 Gen 2004 | ||||
Douglas led this pitch
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26 | ★★★ But Holland is a Country | 20m | Moonarie | Mar 13 Apr 2010 | |||||
26 | ★★★ But Holland is a Country | 20m | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 27 Mar 2005 | ||||
26 | ★★★ Lactic Man | 30m | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | 2003 | ||||
26 | ★★★ Everyone Dies Alone | 50m | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Ven 12 Mag 2006 | ||||
26 | ★★★ But Holland is a Country | 20m | Moonarie | Mar 1 Ott 2002 | |||||
26 | ★★★ But Holland is a Country | 20m | Moonarie | Mar 13 Apr 2010 | |||||
26 | ★★★ Lactic Man | 30m | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | 2003 | ||||
26 | ★★★ Lactic Man | 30m | Moonarie | Mar 1 Apr 2003 | |||||
26 | ★★★ But Holland is a Country | 20m | Moonarie | ★★ Molto buona | Gio 25 Set 2003 | ||||
way hard
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26 | FA ★★★ Lactic Man | 30m | Moonarie | ★★★ Classica | 1998 | ||||
26 | ★★★ Lactic Man | 30m | Moonarie | ★★★ Classica | Mar 26 Apr 2011 | ||||
Had a shot while Dan was on it, Technical and sustained, Will definately be back for this one.
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26 | ★★★ But Holland is a Country | 20m | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Lun 21 Apr 2014 | ||||
this one was a proper fight!
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26 | ★★★ Ape and Away - con justin taylor | 40m | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Lun 25 Mag 2015 | ||||
26 | ★★★ Ape and Away - con Paul Frothy Thomson | 40m | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 21 Apr 2019 | ||||
Now that is a route I can get behind! Burly, steep crack-fu leading into intense face climbing. Best I have done at Moonarie to date. Ascent with gear in place.
With gear in i would grade it low end 27. |
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27 26 | ★★★ Ape and Away - con Emil Mandyczewsky | 40m | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Lun 22 Apr 2019 | ||||
Mega mega mega. 5th lap (including my original ground-up epic attempt). V6 crack boulder, steep fingerlocking, hyper-techo thin crux, then oodles of aesthetic technical face climbing and slabbing on gear. Something of a dream route as it ticks all the boxes.
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26 | ★★★ Goblin Mischief DS | 50m | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 4 Apr 2021 | ||||
26 | ★★★ Monopoly | 20m | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 10 Apr 2021 | ||||
Best route at the moon
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26 | ★★★ Big Mac, Fries to Go | 20m, 7 | Devil's Peak | Gio 1 Lug 2021 | |||||
26 | ★★★ But Holland is a Country | 20m | Moonarie | Sab 11 Set 2021 | |||||
Had to work hard for this one
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26 | ★★★ Monopoly | 20m | Moonarie | ★★★ Classica | Lun 13 Set 2021 | ||||
So close.. 2 good attempts, just didn't quite make it happen
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26 | ★★★ Monopoly | 20m | Moonarie | ★★★ Classica | Lun 13 Set 2021 | ||||
A damn fine outing. A technical and old-school finger crack!
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26 | ★★★ But Holland is a Country | 20m | Moonarie | ★★ Molto buona | Lun 4 Ott 2021 | ||||
Had a few goes but wasn't super psyched
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26 | ★★★ But Holland is a Country | 20m | Moonarie | Dom 31 Ott 2021 | |||||
26 | ★★★ Fresh Off The Boat (Closed Project) | 20m, 6 | Devil's Peak | Ven 10 Dic 2021 | |||||
26 | ★★★ Ape and Away | 40m | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Lun 18 Apr 2022 | ||||
Incredible, felt impossible after the initial ground up effort however I managed to pull it out of the bag a lot quicker than expected. Absolutely mega, cut loose on double handjams to start leads to an awesome thin crack sequence followed by delicate crimping and then the hyper-stressful headwall finale! Not quite my favourite moon route (Durban and JLMP still win) however in terms of movement alone it probably takes the cake! Some of the raddest moves I've done on rock. Kung fu crack!
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26 | ★★★ Ape and Away | 40m | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Lun 18 Apr 2022 | ||||
Kung Fu Crack! Endless fun questing up the wall.
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26 | ★★★ But Holland is a Country | 20m | Moonarie | ★★ Molto buona | Mer 14 Giu 2023 | ||||
26 | ★★★ But Holland is a Country - con Darcy Storm, Bradd Jimmink | 20m | Moonarie | Mar 16 Apr 2024 | |||||
V5 | |||||||||
V5 | ★★ Sloth Morning Glory - con Redanon, Guy Moore | Devil's Peak | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 10 Giu 2018 | |||||
V5 | ★★ Sloth Morning Glory | Devil's Peak | Lun 23 Lug 2018 | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ High Voltage | 4m | Devil's Peak | Dom 16 Dic 2018 | |||||
V5 | ★★★ High On His Own Supply | 6m | Devil's Peak | Ven 21 Dic 2018 | |||||
best line here
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V5 | ★★ Sloth Morning Glory | Devil's Peak | ★ Buona | Dom 21 Apr 2019 | |||||
Great boulder problem for when it's raining. Hold potentially broken off after the 'glory jug'.
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V5 | ★★ Sloth Morning Glory - con Paul Kinnane | Devil's Peak | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 21 Apr 2019 | |||||
Started on the RH sidepull as it was is Rob Brook's guide, which we had there. Didn't really top out because of the broken hold.
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V5 | ★★★ High Voltage | 4m | Devil's Peak | ★★★ Classica | Dom 4 Ago 2019 | ||||
Outstanding climbing. Really really good problem
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V5 | ★★★ High Voltage | 4m | Devil's Peak | ★★★ Classica | Lun 13 Apr 2020 | ||||
So much fun, first real V5!
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V5 | ★★★ Fill Me Up With Air | 3m | The Knobs | Ven 22 Mag 2020 | |||||
Took some effort to remember the start beta, but surprisingly sent this on about second or third attempt. Tried later with the non-heel-hook beta while working on the direct finish and it might be slightly easier. Climbing this at night helped as even during winter the flies were a bit annoying
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V5 | ★★★ High On His Own Supply | 6m | Devil's Peak | Gio 18 Feb 2021 | |||||
Backlog - classic
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V5 | ★★★ Fill Me Up With Air | 3m | The Knobs | Lun 14 Giu 2021 | |||||
Got to the right sloper. Big span move from there unless I can find another beta..
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V5 | ★★ Blastoise - con Callum Brett, Ollie Dow, Robert Brooks | 3m | Devil's Peak | ★ Buona | Lun 16 Ago 2021 | ||||
Ecstatic moment of landing the sloper at the lip made for a happy ascent. Only reason why it is not a 2 star route is the sharp RH start hold.
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V5 | ★★ Blastoise | 3m | Devil's Peak | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 29 Ago 2021 | ||||
strong moves on solid holds. very classy climbing
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V5 | ★★ Blastoise | 3m | Devil's Peak | ★★ Molto buona | Mar 7 Apr 2020 | ||||
V5 | ★★ Blastoise | 3m | Devil's Peak | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 1 Set 2019 | ||||
This one's excellent. From a 2019 trip, been waiting for a topo for ages
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V5 | ★★ Blastoise | 3m | Devil's Peak | ★ Buona | Dom 15 Ago 2021 | ||||
V5 | ★★ Slap Slap on the Bellend | The Knobs | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 18 Set 2021 | |||||
V5 | ★★ Slap Slap on the Bellend | The Knobs | ★★★ Classica | Sab 14 Mag 2022 | |||||
25 | |||||||||
25 | ★★★ Languish in Anguish | 40m, 2 | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Lun 4 Ott 2010 | ||||
25 | FA ★★★ Unreal P1 | 27m | Moonarie | ★★★ Classica | Gio 15 Gen 2004 | ||||
25 | ★ Smooch with a Pooch | 25m, 2 | Moonarie | ★★ Molto buona | Mar 13 Apr 2010 | ||||
25 | ★★★ Durban Poison | 45m, 7 | Moonarie | Sab 1 Nov 2003 | |||||
2nd attempt
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24 25 | OPEN PROJECT (Pot the Black) | 20m, 3 | Devil's Peak | Mar 13 Apr 2010 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Endless Love | 35m, 3 | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Gio 8 Mar 2007 | ||||
25 | ★★ Get out of your wheelchair and climb this you tool, But reality is it's just a Hollywood farce (Get out of your wheelchair and climb this you tool, But reality is its just a holywood farce) | 30m | Moonarie | Mar 13 Apr 2010 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Another Excess | 20m, 4 | Moonarie | Mar 13 Apr 2010 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Buzzard Arete | 80m | Moonarie | Mar 1 Ott 2002 | |||||
25 | ★★ Ultra Mega Mega Man | 20m | Moonarie | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 1 Apr 2006 | ||||
Funky Moves - Cool Rock. Prob solid for the grade.
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25 | ★★ Shake Rattle and Goat | 25m | Moonarie | Mar 13 Apr 2010 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Body Free Fall | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Lun 1 Mag 2006 | |||||
2nd shot. sic route.
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25 | ★ Smooch with a Pooch | 25m, 2 | Moonarie | Sab 1 Nov 2003 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Another Excess | 20m, 4 | Moonarie | ★★★ Mega Classica | Mar 13 Apr 2010 | ||||
25 | ★★ Get out of your wheelchair and climb this you tool, But reality is it's just a Hollywood farce (Get out of your wheelchair and climb this you tool, But reality is its just a holywood farce) | 30m | Moonarie | Media | Ven 25 Ott 1996 | ||||
25 | ★★★ Languish in Anguish | 40m, 2 | Moonarie | ★★ Molto buona | Lun 1 Ott 1990 | ||||
I was blown away when I pulled this asecnt out of the bag!
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25 | ★★★ Another Excess | 20m, 4 | Moonarie | 2002 | |||||
25 | ★★ Get out of your wheelchair and climb this you tool, But reality is it's just a Hollywood farce (Get out of your wheelchair and climb this you tool, But reality is its just a holywood farce) | 30m | Moonarie | Mar 13 Apr 2010 | |||||
25 | ★★ Get out of your wheelchair and climb this you tool, But reality is it's just a Hollywood farce (Get out of your wheelchair and climb this you tool, But reality is its just a holywood farce) | 30m | Moonarie | Mar 1 Giu 2004 | |||||
25 | ★ Smooch with a Pooch | 25m, 2 | Moonarie | ★ Buona | 2003 |