Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Popolarità | Falesia | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
21 | ★★ Shock Wave
This climb lies about 45m from the LH end of the cliffs. Follow 5 bolts up the overhanging arête to a lower off. Quite a pumpy little route. R.Parkyn, Aug 95. | 13m, 5 | The Paradiso | ||
20 | ★ Bondage and Discipline
| 18m, 4 | Fruehauf | ||
17 | ★ Bedside Manners are Extra
| 18m | Fruehauf | ||
20 | ★ General Discipline
Start up Bondage and Discipline until the roof. Then climb straight up on good but well spaced holds (a little harder if your short) & finish at General Benefit chains. | 18m, 4 | Fruehauf | ||
23 | ★★★ Antimatter
A classic of the grade. Climb up flakes/jugs till about two meters from the roof. A tricky section leads into the roof. Then suck up some air and crank around on big side pulls and glassy feet. Super warm up. For those whom it's not a warm up it could be 24. FFA: Doug McConnell, 2003 | 25m, 9 | Freycinet National Park | ||
17 | ★ High Noon
Between 'Unzip' and 'Winkle' climb the face past 4 bolt runners to a rap station. An excellent warm up route. G.Phillips, Oct 95. | 10m, 4 | The Paradiso | ||
22 | ★ General Benefit
| 15m, 4 | Fruehauf | ||
21 | ★ Plastic Erection
| 18m | Fruehauf | ||
24 | ★★ Anaphalaxis
| 15m, 5 | Fruehauf | ||
12 | ★ Eye Bolt Route
Straight up centre of slab, 2m R of 'Twilight Groping'. 5 UBs to chains. | 10m, 5 | Waterworks Quarry | ||
25 | ★★★ Neon God
1
22
25m
2
25
25m
Best done as one pitch however, the easier first pitch to this ultra classic is an excellent route in its own right.
FA: Sam Edwards, 1997 | 50m, 2 | Mount Wellington | ||
16 | ★ Unzip
Climb the easier angled arête immediately to the R of 'Lost Souls'. Start in the diagonal crack about 1m to its right, on less than perfect rock. H.Jackson, May 94. | 13m, 5 | The Paradiso | ||
22 | ★★★ Too Tall Oxen
A long pitch of overhanging climbing, starting at the left end of the wave platform seperating tha Paradiso proper from the Aquaphobia Wall. Long reaches between incut holds characterise this line, which has been known to shed the odd piece of rock. Popular warmup for the harder routes, or a greatpitch to work in its own right. DBB. | 32m | The Paradiso | ||
20 | ★★ Serial Driller
Start 3m R of 'Tour de France', towards R end of central slab. Follow L line bolts after 3rd bolt. Trend L at top to chains shared with 'Les Grands Ensembles' & 'TDF'. 9 UBs. NOTE: top section (to chains) is more technical due to block with holds shedding (May 2017). FA: John Domeney, 1993 | 20m, 9 | Waterworks Quarry | ||
19 | ★★★ Ghost Rider
Classic face climb, one of the most popular at Hillwood. FA: Norm Selby, 2000 | 27m, 10 | Hillwood (private land) | ||
18 | ★ Phantom Stone Thrower
L-most end of main slab, 3m R of 'Bastard Cancer'. 5 UBs to chains. FA: Jon Tiller, 1993 | 20m, 5 | Waterworks Quarry | ||
19 | ★★ Princess
On the face to the right of Drama Queen. FA: R Parkyn, Nov 2014 | 25m, 12 | Mount Wellington | ||
18 | ★ Arse About Face
Nice face climbing. FA: Mark Rewi, 1999 | 15m | Hillwood (private land) | ||
15 | ★ Weetbix
R-most line of bolts on slab, 2m R of 'Eye Bolt Route'. 4 UBs to DUBB. FA: E. Jones, T. Gilbert & G. Abell, 2009 | 11m, 4 | Waterworks Quarry | ||
18 | ★ Bastard Cancer
Arête just L of main slab. Nice rock. Bouldery start, can pre-clip first bolt from easy corner to R. 4 UBs (5 if you use last UB on 'Death Unto Racists') finishing at DBB shared with 'DUR'. FA: Richard Marshall, 1987 | 15m, 4 | Waterworks Quarry | ||
21 | ★ Plastic Extras
This has now been bolted. | 18m | Fruehauf | ||
16 | ★ The Blind Leading The Crippled
Ascends the blunt arête at the R end of the cliff. Try climbing it blindfolded! 4 UBs to chains. FA: Duncan Meerding & Paul Pritchard, 2010 | 10m, 4 | Waterworks Quarry | ||
24 | ★★★ Thunder Birds Are Go
Popular route with a testing initial wall, followed by a dynamic crux. If you make it through all that to the ledge at 3/4 height your doing well. Its in the bag.....isn't it? Fully bolted with a DBB. | 25m, 9 | The Paradiso | ||
22 | ★★ Sponge Bob
Start in the wide crack right of 'High Noon' (or climb directly up the face) step L onto the face, interesting climbing past U bolts to DBB. E. Bradley, A. Williams, J Spong, 2004. | 12m | The Paradiso | ||
17 | ★ Jesus Built My Hammer Drill
Good thin climbing up face to L of 'The Blind Leading The Crippled' arête. 4 UBs to anchors. FA: John Domeney, 1992 | 10m, 4 | Waterworks Quarry | ||
24 | ★★★ Offender Of The Faith
The classic of the wall with constant good and varied moves. | 30m, 10 | The Paradiso | ||
16 | ★ Revelation Six Sixteen
Nice warm up, starts behind a thin tree. FA: Gerry Narkowicz & Norm Selby, 1999 | 15m, 5 | Hillwood (private land) | ||
23 | ★★ Super Charger
Fully bolted now FA: garry phillips, 1995 | 20m, 10 | The Paradiso | ||
19 | ★ Out of Date Route
| 14m, 3 | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||
18 | ★★ Riffraff Roof
FA: Tony Mckenny, 2017 | 20m, 10 | Sand River | ||
17 | ★ Twilight Groping
Start 2m R of 'Don't Buy a Cheap Ryobi'. 4 UBs to chains shared with 'DBACR'. FA: Richard Marshall, 1989 | 10m, 4 | Waterworks Quarry | ||
17 | ★ Don't Buy a Cheap Ryobi
L-most line of bolts on slab, starting just behind the small tree. 4 UBs to chains shared with 'Twilight Groping'. FA: A. Lewes & T. Helleman, 2009 | 10m, 4 | Waterworks Quarry | ||
25 | ★★ Suck Ethics
The classic of the crag | 15m, 6 | Fruehauf | ||
17 | ★★ Deep State
Classic of the crag. Sustained interesting climbing the whole way. Excellent. FA: Tony McKenny & Bob Bull, Ago 2018 | 19m, 7 | Sand River | ||
20 | ★★ Spartacus
Great moves on good rock up through two bulges that each have their own intricacies FA: Stuart Scott, 2017 | 20m, 9 | Sand River | ||
22 | ★★ Nefarious
| 25m, 12 | Mount Wellington | ||
23 | ★ Bad Habits
| 18m, 4 | Fruehauf | ||
18 | ★ Ligament Laxity
FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 1999 | 15m | Hillwood (private land) | ||
24 | ★★★ After Midnight
Absolute classic. Up the arête to the left of Brown Madonna. Consistent, exposed, technical moves. Double ropes can reduce drag, but aren't mandatory. | 50m | Mount Wellington | ||
18 | ★ Death Unto Racists
Delicate climbing. Starts 2m L of 'Bastard Cancer'. 4 UBs to DBB shared with 'BC'. FA: Jon Tiller, 1993 | 15m, 4 | Waterworks Quarry | ||
15 | ★ Condom Power
Excellent face climbing just left of the arete. Originally led on gear. FA: Tony McKenny & Mick Ling | 15m, 6 | Sisters Beach | ||
15 | ★★ Shadowplay
Lovely climbing passing a series of small overhangs on the right side of the wall. FA: Tony McKenny, Ago 2018 | 19m, 9 | Sand River | ||
17 | ★ Mixed Groceries
The bolted arête to the L of 'Shock Wave'. Easy start leads to some balancy moves up to the top. 3 FH to lower-off. S.Young, Jan 07. | 10m, 3 | The Paradiso | ||
18 | ★ One Perfect Day
Goes over the small roof and shares anchors with Decree of Love. FA: Mark Rewi, 1999 | 15m | Hillwood (private land) | ||
23 | ★★ Way of the Dragon
Classic introduction to pumpy and steep sandstone climbing. The anchor clip can be a bit of a stretch. FA: Owen Gervasoni, 2017 | 14m, 8 | Sand River | ||
16 | ★ Enviromental Decay
Follows a faint grey streak. FA: Mark Rewi, 2000 | 6m, 5 | Hillwood (private land) | ||
18 | ★ Nothing Left to Give
Starts at small white streak below overlap. Shares anchors with Arse About Face. FA: Mark Rewi, 1999 | 15m | Hillwood (private land) | ||
14 | ★ Like Nectar for Butterflies
Short climb, good for beginners FA: Mark Rewi, 2000 | 12m, 5 | Hillwood (private land) | ||
18 | ★ Decree of Love
| 15m | Hillwood (private land) | ||
18 | ★★★ Winning Streaks
1
17
20m
2
18
30m
3
18
35m
4
18
30m
A clean fully bolted slab route that offers four excellent pitches of varied climbing. The best approach by far is to abseil in from the top, although it is also possible to reach the climb from the ground at a significantly harder grade via either Hootin and Jivin or Lubricity. Access: The top of the climb is directly below The Bullshit Factor, the prominent overhanging dihedral on the Suzuki Complex. It is reached in a 40 minute walk from the Sleepy Bay car park, via a rough cairned track that follows the Skyline Traverse. Once the track levels off (where it's capped by a few large, mossy, distinctly green boulders) scramble down the left side and keep towards the right at each fork, staying along the base of the Suzuki Complex. Once you reach the obvious dihedral formation of Bullshit Factor, go 25m directly down the slope to find a bit of static safety line. Four abseils down the line of bolts will get you to the bottom of the climb, which is a small stance with a DBB at the base of a short corner, about 20m from the ground above an overhanging wall. The first two abseils can be combined in a 60m rope stretcher from the LOWER set of anchors on the slab, but make sure you knot the ends of your rope! The ground can be reached with a 35m abseil from the anchors at the bottom of P2, or a 20m abseil from the anchors at the bottom of P1. Gear: 2 x 50/60m ropes or 1 x 70/80m rope, 12 draws.
FA: David Stephenson & Stu Scott, 19 Ott 2018 | 120m, 4, 29 | Freycinet National Park | ||
21 | ★★ Unquenched
Start just left of the crackline. Crank leftwards onto the overhanging rounded arête, then up and over bulge via pockets and horizontals to slab (DBB). Lower off, or step right to finish as for Welcome to the Dark Ages. FA: Owen Gervasoni, Lug 2017 | 8m, 4 | Sand River | ||
19 | ★★ Lazy Lob
Excellent steep climbing with an exciting finish up the arete. FA: John Fisher, 1992 | 15m, 5 | Sisters Beach | ||
12 | Five Four
Short easy climb, great for beginners or first time leaders. 3 UBs to DUBB. FA: Jon Tiller, 1993 | 8m, 3 | Waterworks Quarry | ||
21 | ★★★ Kansas City Shuffle
Best route on the wall, third from the left. Classic line on top quality polished rock, sustained face climbing to the anchors on the hanging block. One of the bolts for the loweroff is shockingly rusty and needs to be replaced. FA: Polinski, 2012 | 17m | Mersey Cliffs | ||
21 | ★★ Pathetic Nongs Steal Hangers, Yes I'm Talking to You Arsehole
The best route at the quarry? Continually interesting climbing up the groove feature and bulge. 4 UBs to anchors. FA: A. Rosa, 1992 | 10m, 4 | Waterworks Quarry | ||
16 | ★ Stormy(y) in a D Cup
On the left side of the the steepening wall behind the big tree root. Thoughtful and fun. FA: Neale Smith & Bob Bull, Set 2018 | 16m, 7 | Sand River | ||
15 | ★★ Shady Deals
Entertaining climbing up the arete with a cut loose move to boot! FA: Bob Bull & Stu Scott, Ago 2018 | 20m | Sand River | ||
21 | ★★ Yuddy Boody Noo
Central line and a Hillwood classic. Balancy face climbing that keeps you thinking until the top. FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 1999 | 15m | Hillwood (private land) | ||
17 | ★ Working Class Hero's
FA: Tony Mckenny, 2017 | 18m, 7 | Sand River | ||
22 | ★★ Rhythm Rude Girl
Steep, sustained climbing following the incipient crack. A classic of the crag. FA: John Fisher, 1992 | 15m, 6 | Sisters Beach | ||
18 | ★ Witch Hunt
Some thin moves through the first section, followed by pleasant climbing up the head-wall. Very worthwhile. FA: Stu Scott, Ago 2018 | 18m, 7 | Sand River | ||
17 | ★ Jugs 'R' Us
A rising traverse starting on the far left on excellent holds. FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 1999 | 10m | Hillwood (private land) | ||
17 | ★★ The Arsonist
Slab and headwall just to the left of where the track meets the cliff. FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphries, Gen 2018 | 12m | Sand River | ||
21 | ★ Sugar Mountain
Line of bolts on the far right of the main face, just left of the wide crack. FA: Norm Selby & Glenn Learmont, 1999 | 10m | Hillwood (private land) | ||
22 | ★★★ The Long Kiss Goodnight
Another excellent route. Sustained face climbing leads to a cruxy move pulling through the small roof at the top of the cliff. FA: Mark Rewi, 1999 | 25m, 12 | Hillwood (private land) | ||
14 | ★ Keep Calm and Carry On
| 16m | Sand River | ||
18 | ★★ Power Over Mind
Start at slab just right of enormous right facing corner, directly below a disused falcon perch high in the corner. Follow corner above, then before reaching the falcon perch make exciting moves up and left across the overlaps, and continue up the wall above to the lower offs. Tracciata: Dave Stephenson, Ott 2017 | 25m, 12 | Sand River | ||
18 | ★ Trad Wankers Must Die
Start as for 'Oh Joyous Lobotomy'. At the 3rd UB head R past a final UB to anchors. The FH between the 3rd & 4th bolts doesn't offer additional protection and there's less rope drag if it's not clipped. FA: J. Domeney & S. Stojanovski, 1992 | 10m, 4 | Waterworks Quarry | ||
20 | ★ Ruddiocracy
Start immediately R of PST, climbing just to the L of the UBs. Exciting climbing with some thin moves. The crux clip is now a little cruxier (Aug 2017), having lost a handy jug, adding a grade (from 19). May still shed a little rock so belayer beware! FA: Guy Abell & Emlyn Jones, 2010 | 15m, 5 | Waterworks Quarry | ||
20 | ★★★ Thin Fiend
The thin bolted pinnacle FA: Danny Ng | 10m, 4 | Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||
17 | ★ Enemy of the People
Starts on the left side of the wall, with the crux moves coming in the initial steeper section and a thinnish move at the very top. FA: Stu Scott, Ago 2018 | 18m, 7 | Sand River | ||
24 | ★★ Ancient Astronaught
FA: R.Parkyn, G.Phillips & Sep, 1994 | 35m, 2 | Fortescue Bay | ||
15 | ★ The Butterfly Climb
Slabby face at the far right hand end. FA: Mark Rewi & Denise Moyle, 2000 | 8m | Hillwood (private land) | ||
18 | ★ Annica
What a surprise - thin start followed by good climbing to the top. FA: Stu Scott, Set 2018 | 17m, 7 | Sand River | ||
25 | ★★★ Hercules
A Sand River classic. Steep and athletic climbing, with a dyno, multiple heel hooks and an energy sapping finish. FA: Garry Phillips, 2017 | 15m, 7 | Sand River | ||
23 | ★★ Fire in the sky
The easiest sport route in the area, technical face climbing. | 30m, 16 | Bare Rock | ||
22 | ★★ Welcome to the Dark Ages
Start up the prominent crack line. A tricky layback sequence leads to the overlap. Make a technical traverse 4m left then finish up the pillar / arête feature to DBB. FA: Owen Gervasoni, Ago 2017 | 19m, 9 | Sand River | ||
21 | ★★ Pleasure
| 17m, 9 | Sand River | ||
16 | ★ Abendweg
Starts two meters right of Puberty Rites. Follow the bolts to a gentle finish. FA: Henry Lindner, 2018 | 15m, 6 | Sisters Beach | ||
20 | ★★ Recidivist
| 17m, 9 | Sand River | ||
20 | ★★ Goldleaf
FA: Stuart Scott & Bob Bull, 2017 | 26m, 12 | Sand River | ||
19 | ★ Viral Infection
LHS of the main cliff, climbing just R of the arete. FA: Norm Selby, 1999 | 12m | Hillwood (private land) | ||
15 | ★ Resurrection
Link up. Start up 'Jesus Built My Hammer Drill'. At 3rd UB, head L to join 'Drilling In The Name Of' at its 4th UB. Finish at 'DITNO' anchors. FA: OCCG (Old Codgers Climbing Group), 2005 | 10m, 5 | Waterworks Quarry | ||
25 | ★★★ Sultan Of Sweat
One of the classics of the crag. Long and pumpy, on positive holds, until the final rooflet is mounted and the mood of the route changes. The initial roof is regarded as the crux, but the final rising traverse to the DBB is a heartbreaker. | 32m, 12 | The Paradiso | ||
21 | ★★ Man's Machine
A long and varied pitch up the right trending corner system that seperates the main overhanging portion of the Paradisio (on the left) from the more sympatheticaly angled wall (on the right). DBB. FA: S Young, 2012 | 32m, 10 | The Paradiso | ||
23 | ★★ The Plebeian
Steadily increasing difficulties up the steepening technical wall. FA: Stuart Scott, 2017 | 22m, 13 | Sand River | ||
24 | ★★ Fire Starter
The line up the middle of the main overhang, right of fire wall. FA: Garry Phillips, 2017 | 18m, 9 | Sand River | ||
20 | ★ Crash Course in Brain Surgery
| 10m | Hillwood (private land) | ||
20 | ★ Opening Festering Wounds
Start as for 'Serial Driller' but follow R line of bolts after 3rd bolt. 8 UBs to chains. FA: John Domeney, 1994 | 20m, 8 | Waterworks Quarry | ||
22 | ★★ Walk Like an Egyptian
Shares 2 bolts with Phoenix, before cranking through the right side of big roof to a DBB. | 12m, 5 | Mount Wellington | ||
22 | ★★★ Heat Pump
The second pitch is a Pipes classic. Steep, featured, and pumpy.
There is a lower-off at the top of the 2nd pitch. With a 60m rope and care, the belayer can lower the climber to the ground, then abseil to the ground using the climber as a counterweight. | 30m, 2, 12 | Mount Wellington | ||
19 | ★ Branded and Shackled
Bouldery start as for Glowing Embers, but continue straight up through overhang to a slopey anchor clip. FA: Owen Gervasoni, Lug 2017 | 10m, 5 | Sand River | ||
19 | ★★ Tomorrows Dream
1
16
2
17
3
19
A 'mostly' sport route offering three varied pitches.
| 100m, 3 | Bare Rock | ||
20 | ★ Hue Bris
Excellent climbing up to rooflet. Crux near the top of the wall. FA: Polinski, 2012 | 15m, 4 | Mersey Cliffs | ||
20 | ★★ Crossing the Rubicon
A highly entertaining climb with terrific positions. Start at far right hand side of the cave. Bouldery start up the corner (stick clipping the second bolt is the way to go) then traverse out left along the very lip of the roof. Follow the thin crack past the slab and the final overhang. FA: Stu Scott & Tony McKenny, Mag 2017 | 20m, 11 | Sand River | ||
24 | ★★ Hung on a Tree
Popular face climb starting at the large diagonal crack on the right hand side of the wall. The name refers to the large tree which used to mark the climb, this recently toppled over into the amphitheatre. Jug up crack to high first bolt, then follow the crimps to the top. FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 1999 | 13m, 5 | Hillwood (private land) | ||
25 | ★★★ Dopamine
The direct line of bolts branching to the right off Heaven Can Wait at its 4th bolt. Thinner, more technical and equally as good as Heaven Can Wait, but compromised by the ability to step into the crack of Latex Evening to gain a no hands rest. Superb climbing. FFA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2012 | 30m, 15 | Bare Rock | ||
23 | ★ Urban Renewal
Nice climbing. Start up right facing corner (shared with DITNO). Where DITNO moves right, continue straight up the line. Clips the same bolts as DITNO. No chain or lower-off, but easy to traverse 2m left or right to an adjacent route. FA: Evan Peacock, 1992 | 10m, 5 | Waterworks Quarry | ||
14 | ★ The Towering Inferno
Steep and exposed. Up corner system to level with anchors on Deputy Warden, then blast up the steep wall to the right. FA: Owen Gervasoni, Set 2017 | 18m, 11 | Sand River | ||
16 | ★★ Crime and Punishment
| 17m, 7 | Sand River |