Aiuto

Vie come sportiva in Tasmania

Cerca in:

Filtri via:

Filtri ascensioni:

-

Altri filtri:

  • Legalità
  • Pendenza avvicinamento
  • Durata avvicinamento
  • Accesso dall'acqua
  • Tipo di roccia
  • Aspetto
  • Pendenza
  • Vegetazione
  • Condizioni
  • Discesa
  • Stile
  • Meteo
Ordina per: Modifica in blocco (max 100)
Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Popolarità Falesia
21 Shock Wave

This climb lies about 45m from the LH end of the cliffs. Follow 5 bolts up the overhanging arête to a lower off. Quite a pumpy little route. R.Parkyn, Aug 95.

Sportiva 13m, 5 The Paradiso
20 Bondage and Discipline
Sportiva 18m, 4 Fruehauf
17 Bedside Manners are Extra
Sportiva 18m Fruehauf
20 General Discipline

Start up Bondage and Discipline until the roof. Then climb straight up on good but well spaced holds (a little harder if your short) & finish at General Benefit chains.

Sportiva 18m, 4 Fruehauf
23 Antimatter

A classic of the grade. Climb up flakes/jugs till about two meters from the roof. A tricky section leads into the roof. Then suck up some air and crank around on big side pulls and glassy feet. Super warm up. For those whom it's not a warm up it could be 24.

FFA: Doug McConnell, 2003

Sportiva 25m, 9 Freycinet National Park
17 High Noon

Between 'Unzip' and 'Winkle' climb the face past 4 bolt runners to a rap station. An excellent warm up route. G.Phillips, Oct 95.

Sportiva 10m, 4 The Paradiso
22 General Benefit
Sportiva 15m, 4 Fruehauf
21 Plastic Erection
Sportiva 18m Fruehauf
24 Anaphalaxis
Sportiva 15m, 5 Fruehauf
12 Eye Bolt Route

Straight up centre of slab, 2m R of 'Twilight Groping'. 5 UBs to chains.

Sportiva 10m, 5 Waterworks Quarry
25 Neon God
1 22 25m
2 25 25m

Best done as one pitch however, the easier first pitch to this ultra classic is an excellent route in its own right.

  1. 25m (22). Straight up the face just R of Fiddlesticks. A crimpy crux to get off the ground, then flow up the rest with pleasant moves.

  2. 25m (25). Continue up the line of bolts to the anchors. Crux is just past the third bolt.

FA: Sam Edwards, 1997

Sportiva 50m, 2 Mount Wellington
16 Unzip

Climb the easier angled arête immediately to the R of 'Lost Souls'. Start in the diagonal crack about 1m to its right, on less than perfect rock. H.Jackson, May 94.

Sportiva 13m, 5 The Paradiso
22 Too Tall Oxen

A long pitch of overhanging climbing, starting at the left end of the wave platform seperating tha Paradiso proper from the Aquaphobia Wall. Long reaches between incut holds characterise this line, which has been known to shed the odd piece of rock. Popular warmup for the harder routes, or a greatpitch to work in its own right. DBB.

Sportiva 32m The Paradiso
20 Serial Driller

Start 3m R of 'Tour de France', towards R end of central slab. Follow L line bolts after 3rd bolt. Trend L at top to chains shared with 'Les Grands Ensembles' & 'TDF'. 9 UBs. NOTE: top section (to chains) is more technical due to block with holds shedding (May 2017).

FA: John Domeney, 1993

Sportiva 20m, 9 Waterworks Quarry
19 Ghost Rider

Classic face climb, one of the most popular at Hillwood.

FA: Norm Selby, 2000

Sportiva 27m, 10 Hillwood (private land)
18 Phantom Stone Thrower

L-most end of main slab, 3m R of 'Bastard Cancer'. 5 UBs to chains.

FA: Jon Tiller, 1993

Sportiva 20m, 5 Waterworks Quarry
19 Princess

On the face to the right of Drama Queen.

FA: R Parkyn, Nov 2014

Sportiva 25m, 12 Mount Wellington
18 Arse About Face

Nice face climbing.

FA: Mark Rewi, 1999

Sportiva 15m Hillwood (private land)
15 Weetbix

R-most line of bolts on slab, 2m R of 'Eye Bolt Route'. 4 UBs to DUBB.

FA: E. Jones, T. Gilbert & G. Abell, 2009

Sportiva 11m, 4 Waterworks Quarry
18 Bastard Cancer

Arête just L of main slab. Nice rock. Bouldery start, can pre-clip first bolt from easy corner to R. 4 UBs (5 if you use last UB on 'Death Unto Racists') finishing at DBB shared with 'DUR'.

FA: Richard Marshall, 1987

Sportiva 15m, 4 Waterworks Quarry
21 Plastic Extras

This has now been bolted.

Sportiva 18m Fruehauf
16 The Blind Leading The Crippled

Ascends the blunt arête at the R end of the cliff. Try climbing it blindfolded! 4 UBs to chains.

FA: Duncan Meerding & Paul Pritchard, 2010

Sportiva 10m, 4 Waterworks Quarry
24 Thunder Birds Are Go

Popular route with a testing initial wall, followed by a dynamic crux. If you make it through all that to the ledge at 3/4 height your doing well. Its in the bag.....isn't it? Fully bolted with a DBB.

Sportiva 25m, 9 The Paradiso
22 Sponge Bob

Start in the wide crack right of 'High Noon' (or climb directly up the face) step L onto the face, interesting climbing past U bolts to DBB. E. Bradley, A. Williams, J Spong, 2004.

Sportiva 12m The Paradiso
17 Jesus Built My Hammer Drill

Good thin climbing up face to L of 'The Blind Leading The Crippled' arête. 4 UBs to anchors.

FA: John Domeney, 1992

Sportiva 10m, 4 Waterworks Quarry
24 Offender Of The Faith

The classic of the wall with constant good and varied moves.

Sportiva 30m, 10 The Paradiso
16 Revelation Six Sixteen

Nice warm up, starts behind a thin tree.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz & Norm Selby, 1999

Sportiva 15m, 5 Hillwood (private land)
23 Super Charger

Fully bolted now

FA: garry phillips, 1995

Sportiva 20m, 10 The Paradiso
19 Out of Date Route
Sportiva 14m, 3 Launceston (Cataract) Gorge
18 Riffraff Roof

FA: Tony Mckenny, 2017

Sportiva 20m, 10 Sand River
17 Twilight Groping

Start 2m R of 'Don't Buy a Cheap Ryobi'. 4 UBs to chains shared with 'DBACR'.

FA: Richard Marshall, 1989

Sportiva 10m, 4 Waterworks Quarry
17 Don't Buy a Cheap Ryobi

L-most line of bolts on slab, starting just behind the small tree. 4 UBs to chains shared with 'Twilight Groping'.

FA: A. Lewes & T. Helleman, 2009

Sportiva 10m, 4 Waterworks Quarry
25 Suck Ethics

The classic of the crag

Sportiva 15m, 6 Fruehauf
17 Deep State

Classic of the crag. Sustained interesting climbing the whole way. Excellent.

FA: Tony McKenny & Bob Bull, Ago 2018

Sportiva 19m, 7 Sand River
20 Spartacus

Great moves on good rock up through two bulges that each have their own intricacies

FA: Stuart Scott, 2017

Sportiva 20m, 9 Sand River
22 Nefarious
Sportiva 25m, 12 Mount Wellington
23 Bad Habits
Sportiva 18m, 4 Fruehauf
18 Ligament Laxity

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 1999

Sportiva 15m Hillwood (private land)
24 After Midnight

Absolute classic. Up the arête to the left of Brown Madonna. Consistent, exposed, technical moves. Double ropes can reduce drag, but aren't mandatory.

Sportiva 50m Mount Wellington
18 Death Unto Racists

Delicate climbing. Starts 2m L of 'Bastard Cancer'. 4 UBs to DBB shared with 'BC'.

FA: Jon Tiller, 1993

Sportiva 15m, 4 Waterworks Quarry
15 Condom Power

Excellent face climbing just left of the arete. Originally led on gear.

FA: Tony McKenny & Mick Ling

Sportiva 15m, 6 Sisters Beach
15 Shadowplay

Lovely climbing passing a series of small overhangs on the right side of the wall.

FA: Tony McKenny, Ago 2018

Sportiva 19m, 9 Sand River
17 Mixed Groceries

The bolted arête to the L of 'Shock Wave'. Easy start leads to some balancy moves up to the top. 3 FH to lower-off. S.Young, Jan 07.

Sportiva 10m, 3 The Paradiso
18 One Perfect Day

Goes over the small roof and shares anchors with Decree of Love.

FA: Mark Rewi, 1999

Sportiva 15m Hillwood (private land)
23 Way of the Dragon

Classic introduction to pumpy and steep sandstone climbing. The anchor clip can be a bit of a stretch.

FA: Owen Gervasoni, 2017

Sportiva 14m, 8 Sand River
16 Enviromental Decay

Follows a faint grey streak.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2000

Sportiva 6m, 5 Hillwood (private land)
18 Nothing Left to Give

Starts at small white streak below overlap. Shares anchors with Arse About Face.

FA: Mark Rewi, 1999

Sportiva 15m Hillwood (private land)
14 Like Nectar for Butterflies

Short climb, good for beginners

FA: Mark Rewi, 2000

Sportiva 12m, 5 Hillwood (private land)
18 Decree of Love
Sportiva 15m Hillwood (private land)
18 Winning Streaks
1 17 20m
2 18 30m
3 18 35m
4 18 30m

A clean fully bolted slab route that offers four excellent pitches of varied climbing. The best approach by far is to abseil in from the top, although it is also possible to reach the climb from the ground at a significantly harder grade via either Hootin and Jivin or Lubricity.

Access: The top of the climb is directly below The Bullshit Factor, the prominent overhanging dihedral on the Suzuki Complex. It is reached in a 40 minute walk from the Sleepy Bay car park, via a rough cairned track that follows the Skyline Traverse. Once the track levels off (where it's capped by a few large, mossy, distinctly green boulders) scramble down the left side and keep towards the right at each fork, staying along the base of the Suzuki Complex. Once you reach the obvious dihedral formation of Bullshit Factor, go 25m directly down the slope to find a bit of static safety line.

Four abseils down the line of bolts will get you to the bottom of the climb, which is a small stance with a DBB at the base of a short corner, about 20m from the ground above an overhanging wall. The first two abseils can be combined in a 60m rope stretcher from the LOWER set of anchors on the slab, but make sure you knot the ends of your rope! The ground can be reached with a 35m abseil from the anchors at the bottom of P2, or a 20m abseil from the anchors at the bottom of P1.

Gear: 2 x 50/60m ropes or 1 x 70/80m rope, 12 draws.

  1. 20m 17, 5 bolts. Follow the slightly right trending line up the slab to a TBB on the brushy ledge.

  2. 30m 18/21, 9 bolts. Up the groove above the belay, stepping left onto the slab where the groove steepens and disappears (18). Alternatively, the groove finishes with a very thin exit onto the slab above (21). Continue up the easy slab to a DBB at a small stance.

  3. 35m 18, 7 bolts. Climb the featured wall between the white water streaks, continuing up the easy slab above to a DBB at a small stance.

  4. 30m 18, 8 bolts. Pad up the polished water streaks to glory, passing a small bush and overlap to a DBB.

FA: David Stephenson & Stu Scott, 19 Ott 2018

Sportiva 120m, 4, 29 Freycinet National Park
21 Unquenched

Start just left of the crackline. Crank leftwards onto the overhanging rounded arête, then up and over bulge via pockets and horizontals to slab (DBB). Lower off, or step right to finish as for Welcome to the Dark Ages.

FA: Owen Gervasoni, Lug 2017

Sportiva 8m, 4 Sand River
19 Lazy Lob

Excellent steep climbing with an exciting finish up the arete.

FA: John Fisher, 1992

Sportiva 15m, 5 Sisters Beach
12 Five Four

Short easy climb, great for beginners or first time leaders. 3 UBs to DUBB.

FA: Jon Tiller, 1993

Sportiva 8m, 3 Waterworks Quarry
21 Kansas City Shuffle

Best route on the wall, third from the left. Classic line on top quality polished rock, sustained face climbing to the anchors on the hanging block.

One of the bolts for the loweroff is shockingly rusty and needs to be replaced.

FA: Polinski, 2012

Sportiva 17m Mersey Cliffs
21 Pathetic Nongs Steal Hangers, Yes I'm Talking to You Arsehole

The best route at the quarry? Continually interesting climbing up the groove feature and bulge. 4 UBs to anchors.

FA: A. Rosa, 1992

Sportiva 10m, 4 Waterworks Quarry
16 Stormy(y) in a D Cup

On the left side of the the steepening wall behind the big tree root. Thoughtful and fun.

FA: Neale Smith & Bob Bull, Set 2018

Sportiva 16m, 7 Sand River
15 Shady Deals

Entertaining climbing up the arete with a cut loose move to boot!

FA: Bob Bull & Stu Scott, Ago 2018

Sportiva 20m Sand River
21 Yuddy Boody Noo

Central line and a Hillwood classic. Balancy face climbing that keeps you thinking until the top.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 1999

Sportiva 15m Hillwood (private land)
17 Working Class Hero's

FA: Tony Mckenny, 2017

Sportiva 18m, 7 Sand River
22 Rhythm Rude Girl

Steep, sustained climbing following the incipient crack. A classic of the crag.

FA: John Fisher, 1992

Sportiva 15m, 6 Sisters Beach
18 Witch Hunt

Some thin moves through the first section, followed by pleasant climbing up the head-wall. Very worthwhile.

FA: Stu Scott, Ago 2018

Sportiva 18m, 7 Sand River
17 Jugs 'R' Us

A rising traverse starting on the far left on excellent holds.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 1999

Sportiva 10m Hillwood (private land)
17 The Arsonist

Slab and headwall just to the left of where the track meets the cliff.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphries, Gen 2018

Sportiva 12m Sand River
21 Sugar Mountain

Line of bolts on the far right of the main face, just left of the wide crack.

FA: Norm Selby & Glenn Learmont, 1999

Sportiva 10m Hillwood (private land)
22 The Long Kiss Goodnight

Another excellent route. Sustained face climbing leads to a cruxy move pulling through the small roof at the top of the cliff.

FA: Mark Rewi, 1999

Sportiva 25m, 12 Hillwood (private land)
14 Keep Calm and Carry On
Sportiva 16m Sand River
18 Power Over Mind

Start at slab just right of enormous right facing corner, directly below a disused falcon perch high in the corner. Follow corner above, then before reaching the falcon perch make exciting moves up and left across the overlaps, and continue up the wall above to the lower offs.

Tracciata: Dave Stephenson, Ott 2017

Sportiva 25m, 12 Sand River
18 Trad Wankers Must Die

Start as for 'Oh Joyous Lobotomy'. At the 3rd UB head R past a final UB to anchors. The FH between the 3rd & 4th bolts doesn't offer additional protection and there's less rope drag if it's not clipped.

FA: J. Domeney & S. Stojanovski, 1992

Sportiva 10m, 4 Waterworks Quarry
20 Ruddiocracy

Start immediately R of PST, climbing just to the L of the UBs. Exciting climbing with some thin moves. The crux clip is now a little cruxier (Aug 2017), having lost a handy jug, adding a grade (from 19). May still shed a little rock so belayer beware!

FA: Guy Abell & Emlyn Jones, 2010

Sportiva 15m, 5 Waterworks Quarry
20 Thin Fiend

The thin bolted pinnacle

FA: Danny Ng

Sportiva 10m, 4 Launceston (Cataract) Gorge
17 Enemy of the People

Starts on the left side of the wall, with the crux moves coming in the initial steeper section and a thinnish move at the very top.

FA: Stu Scott, Ago 2018

Sportiva 18m, 7 Sand River
24 Ancient Astronaught
  1. 25m 24. Crank through the overhang at the base of the NE arete. Continue up the arete and the wall to its left.

  2. 10m 20. Blast straight up from the belay ledge then trend right via the last U to finish on the right side of the arete. No natural gear required on either pitch.

FA: R.Parkyn, G.Phillips & Sep, 1994

Sportiva 35m, 2 Fortescue Bay
15 The Butterfly Climb

Slabby face at the far right hand end.

FA: Mark Rewi & Denise Moyle, 2000

Sportiva 8m Hillwood (private land)
18 Annica

What a surprise - thin start followed by good climbing to the top.

FA: Stu Scott, Set 2018

Sportiva 17m, 7 Sand River
25 Hercules

A Sand River classic. Steep and athletic climbing, with a dyno, multiple heel hooks and an energy sapping finish.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2017

Sportiva 15m, 7 Sand River
23 Fire in the sky

The easiest sport route in the area, technical face climbing.

Sportiva 30m, 16 Bare Rock
22 Welcome to the Dark Ages

Start up the prominent crack line. A tricky layback sequence leads to the overlap. Make a technical traverse 4m left then finish up the pillar / arête feature to DBB.

FA: Owen Gervasoni, Ago 2017

Sportiva 19m, 9 Sand River
21 Pleasure
Sportiva 17m, 9 Sand River
16 Abendweg

Starts two meters right of Puberty Rites. Follow the bolts to a gentle finish.

FA: Henry Lindner, 2018

Sportiva 15m, 6 Sisters Beach
20 Recidivist
Sportiva 17m, 9 Sand River
20 Goldleaf

FA: Stuart Scott & Bob Bull, 2017

Sportiva 26m, 12 Sand River
19 Viral Infection

LHS of the main cliff, climbing just R of the arete.

FA: Norm Selby, 1999

Sportiva 12m Hillwood (private land)
15 Resurrection

Link up. Start up 'Jesus Built My Hammer Drill'. At 3rd UB, head L to join 'Drilling In The Name Of' at its 4th UB. Finish at 'DITNO' anchors.

FA: OCCG (Old Codgers Climbing Group), 2005

Sportiva 10m, 5 Waterworks Quarry
25 Sultan Of Sweat

One of the classics of the crag. Long and pumpy, on positive holds, until the final rooflet is mounted and the mood of the route changes. The initial roof is regarded as the crux, but the final rising traverse to the DBB is a heartbreaker.

Sportiva 32m, 12 The Paradiso
21 Man's Machine

A long and varied pitch up the right trending corner system that seperates the main overhanging portion of the Paradisio (on the left) from the more sympatheticaly angled wall (on the right). DBB.

FA: S Young, 2012

Sportiva 32m, 10 The Paradiso
23 The Plebeian

Steadily increasing difficulties up the steepening technical wall.

FA: Stuart Scott, 2017

Sportiva 22m, 13 Sand River
24 Fire Starter

The line up the middle of the main overhang, right of fire wall.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2017

Sportiva 18m, 9 Sand River
20 Crash Course in Brain Surgery
Sportiva 10m Hillwood (private land)
20 Opening Festering Wounds

Start as for 'Serial Driller' but follow R line of bolts after 3rd bolt. 8 UBs to chains.

FA: John Domeney, 1994

Sportiva 20m, 8 Waterworks Quarry
22 Walk Like an Egyptian

Shares 2 bolts with Phoenix, before cranking through the right side of big roof to a DBB.

Sportiva 12m, 5 Mount Wellington
22 Heat Pump

The second pitch is a Pipes classic. Steep, featured, and pumpy.

  1. 15m (18) 5 bolts. Follow U bolts to large sloping ledge and DBB. Likely a sandbag at 18, but interesting and well bolted.

  2. 15m (22) 7 bolts. The main attraction. Follow the black streak and gently overhanging arete. Pumpy, safe, and technically interesting.

There is a lower-off at the top of the 2nd pitch. With a 60m rope and care, the belayer can lower the climber to the ground, then abseil to the ground using the climber as a counterweight.

Sportiva 30m, 2, 12 Mount Wellington
19 Branded and Shackled

Bouldery start as for Glowing Embers, but continue straight up through overhang to a slopey anchor clip.

FA: Owen Gervasoni, Lug 2017

Sportiva 10m, 5 Sand River
19 Tomorrows Dream
1 16
2 17
3 19

A 'mostly' sport route offering three varied pitches.

  1. P1 is a fully bolted slab (16).

  2. P2 follows loose right trending diagonal line (camming devices) before traversing to bolt on left wall (17). Up to belay.

  3. P3 is brilliant fully bolted grade 19 climbing on great rock.

Sportiva 100m, 3 Bare Rock
20 Hue Bris

Excellent climbing up to rooflet. Crux near the top of the wall.

FA: Polinski, 2012

Sportiva 15m, 4 Mersey Cliffs
20 Crossing the Rubicon

A highly entertaining climb with terrific positions. Start at far right hand side of the cave. Bouldery start up the corner (stick clipping the second bolt is the way to go) then traverse out left along the very lip of the roof. Follow the thin crack past the slab and the final overhang.

FA: Stu Scott & Tony McKenny, Mag 2017

Sportiva 20m, 11 Sand River
24 Hung on a Tree

Popular face climb starting at the large diagonal crack on the right hand side of the wall. The name refers to the large tree which used to mark the climb, this recently toppled over into the amphitheatre. Jug up crack to high first bolt, then follow the crimps to the top.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 1999

Sportiva 13m, 5 Hillwood (private land)
25 Dopamine

The direct line of bolts branching to the right off Heaven Can Wait at its 4th bolt.

Thinner, more technical and equally as good as Heaven Can Wait, but compromised by the ability to step into the crack of Latex Evening to gain a no hands rest. Superb climbing.

FFA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2012

Sportiva 30m, 15 Bare Rock
23 Urban Renewal

Nice climbing. Start up right facing corner (shared with DITNO). Where DITNO moves right, continue straight up the line. Clips the same bolts as DITNO. No chain or lower-off, but easy to traverse 2m left or right to an adjacent route.

FA: Evan Peacock, 1992

Sportiva 10m, 5 Waterworks Quarry
14 The Towering Inferno

Steep and exposed. Up corner system to level with anchors on Deputy Warden, then blast up the steep wall to the right.

FA: Owen Gervasoni, Set 2017

Sportiva 18m, 11 Sand River
16 Crime and Punishment
Sportiva 17m, 7 Sand River
Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文