Vie in North West del grado selezionato

Starts 5m right of Horizon. Follow the hangers them move diagonally left. No anchor as yet.

Funky 3D climbing is both unnerving and exciting. Thin crack/seam at edge of chimney cleft, 3 metres left of Tortology until it meets the cleft. Heave around right and up.

The controversial bolting of this route warranted an editorial in Rock magazine! 'Steep' wall climbing perfection. A harder and more sustained version of La Petit Mort with bolts protecting the crux moves. First ascent was in a snow storm.

1. 33m (16) Starts 8m right of 'Le Petit Mort' at small tree and first line of weakness leading leftwards. Juggy wall climbing with a mossy start and finish. Three BR's and assorted natural gear. Belay on small ledge below headwall with slings around giant chicken heads about 8m left of Die Young's corner. A 60m rope will only just make it to the ground from the slings if you swing to the right.

2. 31m (20) Head up and left on jugs for 6m then up balancy wall aiming for BR under small bulge. Over small rooflet (fiddly small cams) and rightwards up wall above past BR and FH to rest under daunting overhang. Swing upwards on amazing pumpy buckets past three FH's to trad finish up juggy wall and over finish bulge to bolt anchor on lip. Rapping from this anchor will JUST reach the belay on a 60m rope. Bring a full sized rack including 12 long quickdraws.

Link up of Excuse me While I Belch into 2nd pitch of Lex Luthor. No stepping onto the massive chockstone. Do as one big pitch to get grade 20. Can lower off with 60m rope.

Start as for Zeus, but after 4m take the shallow orange corner 2m L. Straight through overhangs, then move R at final roof to finish up Zeus. Good climbing, with spaced but adequate pro.

It is hard to believe that this was once a relatively popular climb. The first pitch is more like a garden fernery than a climb.

1. 33m (20) Traverse into the line from the right. Bridge between the corner and a pinnacle on the right and up over ferns for 10 metres or so. Up left to sloping ledge. Widening crack on left wall for 8 metres to chimney. Step up left to ledge.

2. 45m (-) Chimney, passing behind chockstones and finish up corner above.

3. 27m (-) Climb undercut hand-crack just left of large tree at back of terrace then veer right and easily up the as for the last little bit of 'Mixed Climb'.

The left end of the slab on thin holds with virtually no protection.

The left hand of two diagonal cracks. Two hard pitches, gear to #4 cam.

1. 40m (20) Up easily then traverse left to crack, up this then climb up to roof and left to belay,

2. 20m (20) Short corner to a crouched stance below the roof, escape awkwardly right to where a big move brings you onto the headwall, then up.

Another worthless traverse.

Start: Start as for 'Eagle Cleft'.

On the East facing block just above and R of SC. Can also be approached from the top of the gully of the 3 Tiers. The slanting crack up the middle of the wall.

This atmospheric climb finishes up a landmark notch in the summit ceilings R of exit gully of The 'Sermon'. At the foot of the west face, right of The 'Sermon' is a long ceiling. The base of the cliff then drops down right to where there is another long ceiling. Between these two ceilings is a short, broken, L-facing corner. Start here (where are topos when you need them?) 1. 45m Up and right then straight up to grassy terrace. Up this (up a terrace?) to foot of wall above two blocks on grass. 2. 40m 'Small', right-facing corner crack. Step up left and climb up and left on mossy face, then straight up to ledge. Short walls lead to narrow ledge below huge overhanging wall. Move left on ledge to guano-stained corner. 3. 20m (crux) Take seam, moving right and up under ceilings to exposed stance in notch. 4. 30m The line above.

Very unlikely looking wall climbing which looks very poorly protected. Sustained.

Start: 2m R of 'Fedallah'

1. 25m (20) Up face to short corner which leads to overhamg. Swing R onto steep slab then make a dramatic move L to a hanging slab. Up and L to join 'Fedallah' for 2m. Where that climb swings L cont. up line to stance below overhangs.

2. 25m (20) Short corner to roof. Move L and pull up R around lip in exciting situation. Follow line up R to join 'Marie', finish up this.

Scramble up to the descent gully.

Excellent climbing up the nose at the gully intersection.

Start 1m R of Preludes. Up to small stance. A couple of commiting moves lead up to a bolt, then a slippery crux gains a shallow R-facing corner to rap anchors on the ledge. Lower off.

Alternatively at the top go up the finger crack of Stalagmite for a few moves and then right up the headwall. It feels a bit loose up there so take care and warn people below.

Subtle arête on R side of entrance to first gully. Easy crack for 5m to high BR. Step R and layback tenuous crack to break (crux). Through difficult bulge and up. U bolt lower off.

Clip first BR on Stryletzia, then step left to pull through break in bulge (crux). Directly up left side of arête above (tricky finish).

Start 2 metres right of 'Cyclops' on left side of black cave and go up wall on spaced jugs.

Start at the left-leading diagonal crack. Follow it into the easy chimney on Cadenza Direct and up to the sloping ledge. Traverse 5m right to a tricky exit.

Start at ramp 8 metres right of Slug. Gain the right-leading flake by a traverse left from the easy ramp. Up the line and exit vertically to the belay ledge.

Start in the middle of the south face of the gully, opposite a small alcove formed by left and right facing corners. James McIntosh, Glen Donohue, Nick Ping, Andrew Webb. 8.3.98

Pretty exciting stuff. Traverse left past 3 FH on flake, then pull over onto slab. Rap off slings. A worthwhile extended finish has been done by continuing up and L into 2nd runnel, finishing about 5m higher. Start: Start as for "Crazy Like A Fox"

Go 3 metres up the flake and step right. Climb the wall, mostly just left of the arete until the bulge. Take this via the main crack.

Start: Start 15 metres right of 'Lioness' at a flake-corner.

The lovely corner up the right wall of 'Silver Bullet' was probably the hardest climb in 'Victoria' in its day.

It's probably best to belay from the ground but some parties insist on scrambling up a few metres to belay at the very base of the line.

Pitch 1 has seen a few very serious falls, but the protection is quite ok if you take care to eliminate directional forces on the crux pro. If you don't know how to do this, then this route might deserve a "serious" rating.

Start: About 25m R of 'Eagle Cleft' there is the first significant weakness in the big roof. Start under this.

1. 35m (20) Up long slabby crack to beneath a short steep corner. Make sure you set good directional pro here as the crux wires can be susceptible to outwards force. Cruxy moves up the corner to a ledge.

2. 15m (20) The intimidating steep crack through the bulge above climbs beautifully. You'll reach a cave with a rap anchor (50m to the ground).

3. 50m (-) Don't bother with this, rap off instead. Up mossiness then into a polished chimney which leads to Flinders Lane.

Starts on the RH end of the block that forms the top half of Septic Crank. Up arete, past a bolt runner to the top.

Excellent, technical climb; possibly best on cliff. First of two prominent cracks on first wall 40m left of Soul’s Midnight and 22m right of Liquid Sun-shine. Starts as finger-crack.

Start as for 'Diamonds In The Forest' but finish up thin cracks and seams 2 metres left of that route.

Not on Espanol Pinnacle itself, but nearby. Right facing flake crack in gully 100m below the North Pinnacle.

Small, orange corner 4m right of Dim Sim. Continue up left side of nose (belay possible here). Up

The lovely right-facing flake corner bordering the left side of the great blankish north-west wall. It's a pity that it gets heavily top-roped.

Climb the right-facing corner with hard moves past the little roof then keep cranking up slightly left to the top. Gear has a habit of unzipping on people; consider placing a directional at the start and being generous with the draws.

Cutting loose on the jug is suitably exciting as long as it stays put! From bald arete right of Boy's Own, traverse left and cut loose on hollow, flat-topped jug.

Makes a good change.

This mixed route is located on the first terrace/alcove (uphill and L of main cliff). Slabby seam L of chimney.

Nice line but contrived climbing.

Thin cracks up wall 3 metres left of Reinhardt to a ledge on the left.

To commemorate Greg Child’s 36th birthday. First line at left end of cliff, left of huge overhangs. Take a #3½ SLCD. Right-facing corner to roof. Traverse right under it. Up thin crack, step right up corner.

Start: Start 5 metres right of Mr Piggy's Train Ride.

1. 15m (20) Up groove, moving left at 8 metres to the next crack. Continue to a poor stance below the bulge.

2. 35m (20) Up the wall, trending right, easing dramatically after first 5 metres.

More grunting. Crack and ceiling 8 metres right of 'Winterset'.

The roof is cool. Said to be 100m, which looks right, but the pitch lengths don't add up so you'll have to make do.

Start: Start 5m L of 'Underneath the Colours'.

1. 24m (20) Bouldery crux up the blank-looking smooth wall past a fixed sling. Easier jugs follow.

2. 18m (-) Up onto foothold on bulge. Trend slightly L to stance.

3. 27m (-) Smooth wall to red roof. Bridge out to a blind reach around the lip and swing on the jug. 'Doddle' onwards.

The crack, hardest down low.

Start: Start just L of UtA.

Steep and fierce. Up first (of a pair) V-corner on orange wall 7m left of The Long March, then left under overhang and up wall steeply.

Start: Starts at the little grey undercut corner a little way left of 'Mujahideen'.

1. 20m (20) Up, then tend left taking the line of least resistance to the big ledge.

2. 10m (20) Crux. Take the twin face cracks on the rightward facing wall (left of the impressive blank corner). Move around left and up to big ledge.

3. 15m (15) Traverse easily left to the prominent line. Up this.

Inital crack of Bhutan then follow FiHP and take DF through roof.

Pity about the finishing pitches.

Start: Start at the corner on the righthand side of Beerpot wall.

1. 15m (-) Corner and wall to roof. Left to pea-pod.

2. 18m (20) Up pod then traverse right to stance under stunning flake.

3. 17m (20) 'Flake'. Belay on right.

4. 20m (-) Out right then pull over small roof. Up corner to another roof, left to arete.

5. 20m (-) Up and right.

6. 40m (-) Walk left to blocks, pull over steepening and finish up gully.

Start just right of Manufacturing Consent. A solid move gains the diagonal then climb the arete for 3 metres. Step right and pull into crack to continue up wall, joining Manufacturing Consent near the top.

An acronymic jibe?

Start: Start right of EL Mc.

Good climbing on nice rock. Seam starting from boulder 8m R of KK. From ledge finish easily up wall above.

Excellent, left-leaning orange flake on left side of main wall. Up right at steepening to small ledge. Line above, then wall.

This length is surely overstated. Anyway, up the unprotected start of O-W to the ledge. Now go R and up arete to a ledge then do the top overhang.

Start: Start as for O-W.

Go up to and around an overhang. From ledge above, finish up 'Future Past'.

Start: Start 3 metres left of 'Future Past'.

The original approach to what eventually became Jen's Roof. Bridge up the gully left of Dirge then out right to short thin crack. From crack go right into Dirge and up this to roof on right. Hand-traverse right on the lip of the roof to where there is now a FH, then up steep jugs to chains.

Not too bad. Take the arete left of the off-width on smooth, grey-yellow rock.

If steep bolted climbs are your thing, then you'll love the few metres of new climbing that this route provides. Unfortunately you'll have to climb the first two thirds of 'Guilty' first, then traverse L on good edges into base of cave. Finish past 3 FHs to DRB lower off.

A dramatic route with some poorly protected difficult climbing.

Start 10-15 metres left of 'Quincas Borba'.

1. 30m (20) Up the unprotected wall to a corner which leads to a roof. Move out right around the roof and up the line above to a good ledge on the left.

2. 30m (-) Step right and traverse right across the wall for 10 metres. Go up a faint groove to a ledge and large blcok. Stand on the block and climb the steep wall, tending left as it eases.

3. 40m (-) Straight up the series of walls.

4. 30m (-) Up the groove and over the overhangs as for Quincas Borba's final pitch.

20m right of Test Run are a couple of faces. The right hand one has a slab leading up to a shallow left facing corner. Up the face and the corner to a hard, steep exit.

Sustained with a good finish. Start as for Serpent. Follow Serpent for 25 metres then up the steep corner on the right. Pull through overhang and up.

A good line up the front of the buttress R of Falcon. Up the slippery crack (some find this the crux) to Falcon's ledge at about 8m. Step off this diagonally R past a bolt (shorter folks might find this the crux) then drift back L to a small corner and up slightly R to a juggy finish. Falcon's chains are just around the corner.

Start: Start at thin crack up the front of the buttress, 6m left of Phoenix.

The crack 1m L of MK.

Prominent, steep, right-facing corner right of The Secret.

Attractive line - if you enjoy offwidths and runouts. The only viable route splitting the endless blankness on the far left side of White Wall. The hidden second pitch looks really good.

Start: Locate the major left facing flake crack / chimney about 10m left of 'Panama Canal' back at ground level. The end of the first pitch finishes on the belay ledge for 'Panama Canal'. If you can't find this go back to the gym.

1. 20m (20) Squeeze up behind the huge flake for 5m to ledge. Now layback the wide crack past a rusty BR and then easy but absorbing climbing to a spacious ledge. Some tiny SLCD are useful to protect the moves up to the bolt.

2. 24m (20) Step up from the large boulder and traverse left to the prominent right leaning corner. Station a battalion to take care of dissenters, then push on to the top to plant the flag. A great pitch on perfect orange rock. Seeps in winter.

Ten metres left of "Frigging In The Rain" is a crack-line with an "axe blade". Crack to blade, use this to exit.

L leaning seam starting 3m R of The Stand.

On to wall 3 metres right of Bucketing Compost and at left side of small cave. Left from horizontal break then straight up, moving a little right to finish.

The grades of the individual pitches are not known, though first one looks harder, so both are given 20.

On first glance it hardly seems worth splitting this into two pitches but it makes sense.

Start: Start 4 metres left of 'Big Bungies'.

1. 12m (20) The crack in the arete to a ledge.

2. 5m (20) The jagged crack to the top. This lengthy pitch can be avoided by traversing off right.

Explosive moves on pockets on supurb rock. Start up BiP, R up line, step R onto wall and up.

Line 2m left of distinctive chimney with chock stone near middle of cliff. Steep, good rock. Past BR and shallow corner to ledge. Wide crack.

A girdle of the 'Plaque' outcrop...good luck at getting past the topropers.

Start: Start on the far L.

Excellent, steep fun. Solid at the grade with fiddly gear on the crux.

Start on the left edge of the pillar, as for "Yesterday's Rooster".

Gain short hanging corner, fiddle with pro then move right and follow middle of buttress.

Continue up the gully to below the middle of the righthand wall. The line in the middle of the wall, with a reachy finish.

Steep and exciting, originally graded 18!

Start: As for P2 of 'Rapier' Straight up the overhanging corner and cracks above.

Sustained climbing up the shallow black groove and right-facing corner 4 metres right of "Too Hard". Near the top, cross a slab on the right to an abseil tree.

A bit contrived. Grade may vary according to exact line taken.

Start: Start 1m right of 'Bolt Action Directe' at thin right-leading crack.

Good position. Left arête of The Flying Game. Starts in corner at thin seam on left side of arête. A few hurried moves bring you right on to arête, then up staying right of arête.

The major corner line through the centre of the wall offers a fine adventure. Mossy and loose. Has been led in two pitches.

1. 30m (18) Climb the corner to the first roof.

2. 10m (19) Go right under the first roof and belay just above. The footholds on this pitch are very mossy!

3. 20m (20) Jam underneath the next roof (crux) and up the corner to a brilliant belay beneath the third roof.

4. 10m (17) Continue up and traverse under the next roof.

5. 30m (10) Climb the stegosaurus wall to the Operating Theatre.

An enigmatic start up thin crack left of Hopscotch. After 6 metres head up right to a ledge on the arete and finish as for Hopscotch.

A reachy start, then sustained climbing straight up on great rock.

Start: 8m L of 'Fault Line' at a brushed line, marked "NL".

Thin line 1m R of RT, trend R to finish just L of TRatBB.

Middle weakness of Sugar Tax wall, starting 2m right of In A Daze For Days. Pass left of bulge 2½m right of triangular block on Sugar Tax. Up past slot. Finish up weakness in middle of wall.

"Pot-hole never felt so good."

Start: Towards the righe end, scramble up to terrace.

Climb the ragged flake to right-leading crack. Pull onto beautiful grey, pocketed wall and go up.

1. (20) Starts under the roof between Prevarication and Hurricane Lamp Cracks and powers straight through it. Move on upward (be aware of loose blocks) to a bolt anchor (45m rappel).

2. (18) Onward through some steep moves and then at the slopey ledge, move slightly right then up the horizontals to a bolt. After moving past the crux trend left towards a bolt anchor (30m rappel to next anchor) under the roof, opposite the tennis court.

3. (14) Move far right under the roof to the big offwidth crack, struggle your way through and then climb the headwall on the left side, moving left after a ledge, then back right to another bolt anchor (25m rappel to anchor under the roof).

Up and across narrow wall to left arete of chimney on back of block. Round onto main face. Up.

Good fun wall climbing on great rock; in the same vein as Middle Of The Road. Up into the orange scoop then up wall past horizontals, be careful of detached flake up high.

Start: Start between Left, Right And Centre and 'Just Like Your Father'.

50m R of Jonah, a narrow buttress immediately R of a body chimney. Up middle of face then finish up L arete. Sustained and fiddley to protect. A bit artificial avoiding the ledge off R at half height.

(trad route) on the face left of White Woman; Around left from Blackfellabis a right facing corner with a fist sized crack in the back. Up this for 5 m then step round left and up the left facing corner for 5m. Step left around the roof and up. Take the face then arête to the top. Protection is adequate.

Mossy slab 1m left of Judak (Jeddak ?) to guano-stained scoops. Pass guano (BR) to right-facing corner. Scoops on right (pro in corner) on small edges, then back to corner at overlap. Over this to slab.

Worthless pro!

Left arete of major buttress. Lost In The Ozone takes the right arete. Wouldn't be too bad with a bit of traffic.

Start up shallow corner-flake and up, keeping just right of arete. The crux section is avoidable.

Start 6m right of Jason. Up past horizontal, then the groove, and head R after bulge. The hanging block at the end of the crux sounds pretty hollow.