Ascensioni in Nordwand

Good sport alpine route with sometimes sparse bolting. On the other hand, the (cool + slabby) crux sequence has bolts every meter, which seems excessive. In retrospect, I should have taken nuts and another sling. Fortunately, I found a well-placed if rusty perma-nut to clip 😅.

First two pitches are layback and dihedral climbing along the large flakes, with a layback crux to the end of the second pitch.

The third pitch is a slabby diagonal traverse with a hard couple of meters towards the end. I misread a section and had to power through, but was far enough above the grade that it worked out.

Fourth pitch is short (3 bolts) and contains the imo second hardest crux of the route, so 5+ feels sandbagged in context.

Rap to the stance of the neighboring route rather than reverse the traverse;)

bei Nässe

Anschließend über Nordgrat zum Gipfel