Ascensioni in Sparchen

Climbed it for warm-up today. This time a proper redpoint with putting in all the quickdraws. At the anchor, I was extremely pumped and had to wait two minutes for my arms to relax.

The conditions were much better than expected - in fact, maybe the best conditions we've had in Sparchen. Despite the rain on the previous days, most of the routes were dry, humidity wasn't too high and the temperature was perfect for climbing. I could hold the small polished crimps better than last time and climbed the crux from the ground on my third try. I had underestimated the upper part a bit and was extremely pumped by the time I reached the anchor, but I did not fall, luckily.

Finally sent it.

Very nice route on small crimps, apart from the section from the third to fourth bolt not even that hard. I onsighted the part up to the third bolt immediately below the crux, could not climb the crux, and then climbed the upper part with one rest. On my second try, it was hotter, my skin was thinner and I just slipped off the holds, so I decided to stop trying. The first bolt is very high, though. The climbing was also not so hard, but it definitely felt a bit uncomfortable.

Should have climbed it while putting up the quickdraws (2 were already in place). All moves up to the last one were very solid, but then I hesitated a bit too much as I wasn't sure where exactly the good part of the edge was, so I fell again at the last move. In my second attempt, my fingers became colder and colder and I could barely hold the good sideclings in the upper part anymore. I fell again at the last move, but this time there was no chance at all of sticking it.

First hard move is already at the first bolt when you only have very few footholds, and the available footholds are very polished. I couldn't do the move to the good sidecling on the right. It's easier afterwards up to the third bolt. The crux is probably from third to fourth bolt, where the good footholds are too low to be useful and where the handholds are not so good either. I also skipped the move to the good hold at the fourth draw which is quite far up to the left. From then one, it gets easier, even though I skipped another move to the fifth bolt. From fifth bolt to the top, the holds are larger and more incut.

Zu kalt heute. Aber zumindest trocken trotz Schmelzwasser.

Did all the moves, but I have to spend a little more time on the beta before being able to send this. Crux section for three draws with open holds in an overhanging wall.

Even this part of the wall can get wet, after all. Did the moves up to to the third draw, the route was wet starting from just before the fourth draw. Since the part from the third to the fourth draw also seems to be quite hard, judging from how others climbed it, I decided to stop trying there.

Very nice warm up

Feels a little harder than Die Schlinge because of very polished footholds. But very nice!! After fourth quickdraw stay right the small looking undercling is very good for left. At the top traverse right with the feet and bump up with right hand very far right where it looks like there might be a ledge (there is one but you cannot really see it from below)

Remember after third quickdraw to put left foot a tiny bit under right foot. Then side pull on the right. Before jug on the right take crimp on the left. Then right hand to good crimp. Left hand to side pull. Foot up high left the highest possible. Then go dynamically to jug.

Too weak today and too scared to clip the fourth quick draw 🌶️

Felt harder than Drunk as a Skunk today with all the polished footholds. One try to remember the moves and then two tries falling at the last move with two different betas.

One try to remember the moves, sent it second try. Did not feel very hard today.